Centrifuge filtration

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patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

08-09-2008, 11:23 PM #1

The oil is dripped into the "pan" while it's turning. Centrifugal force pushes the oil to the walls of the pan. The pan fills with oil until it's level with the upper lip. More oil is added until it begins to overflow. But during that time the heavier items sink to the wall of the pan. Allowing only the oil to be flung out.

Here's what I'm working on.

[Image: IMAG0012.jpg]

I'm using a Acme Juicer that was designed to retain the pulp and extract only the juice. (I'm going to have to remove that challenger sticker huh?) It has a basket inside that has a mesh surround. You can see here what I'm talking about.

[Image: IMAG0013.jpg]

There's been several ways to attempt sealing this off. Paint, epoxy, tape. The paint doesn't seem to work, the epoxy works, but throws the balance off. Good tape has worked wonders for others. I'm trying the tape. I figure that's the least perm. way first as well. You need quality duct tape. Not the $1 stuff you pick up at wally world. I found this stuff at home depot. It's backed with a rubbery glue that sets up a waterproof bond, according to the label.

[Image: IMAG0014.jpg]

I used a layer on the inside and a layer on the outside. This stuff is sticky! It just barely covers the mesh. But on the outside it laps just over the seam. I forced it in at the seam with the finger hoop from my snips. Here's a pic of it with inside and outside sealing.

[Image: IMAG0015.jpg]

Next I needed a way to collect the output. The front drain just pours out for your cup/bowl/whatever. I wanted to hook a hose to it. So I used a scrap of 1/2" alum fuel line I had laying around.

[Image: IMAG0016.jpg]

Then I glued it in place with good ole JB weld.

[Image: IMAG0017.jpg]

I did all that yesterday evening. Today I actually tested it.

I know some will of course question the scientificy of my "test". But I can see results with my crude test. It shows I'm heading in the right direction at least. It didn't make the oil clear again. I didn't expect it to. But it did pull a great deal of trash out of what looked like "ok" waste oil.

Note: I cleaned out all the bottles before use and poured a little alcohol in them to dry any moisture in the bottles.

Here's the unfiltered waste engine oil. Thick and sticks to the side of the bottle when shaken. I can see trash sticking to the inside walls of the bottle.

[Image: IMAG0018.jpg]

I'm going to have to develop a feed system. I was just trickling it in by hand. A ball valve should do the trick.

[Image: IMAG0019.jpg]

Here's a view of the oil flowing down into the tube as well from overhead.

[Image: IMAG0024.jpg]

And here's what the centrifuge insides looked like when I filled the first bottle.

[Image: IMAG0020.jpg]

Here's the oil in the bottle as well, it's getting aerated by the process. I'm thinking that warming the oil will cut down on it.

[Image: IMAG0021.jpg]

I began a second pass with the "filtered" oil. After the second pass I did a wipe to give you an idea of how much filth is being pulled out.

[Image: IMAG0022.jpg]

Nasty stuff
[Image: IMAG0023.jpg]

And here's a shake up of the double filtered oil.
[Image: IMAG0025.jpg]

All three stages...
[Image: IMAG0027.jpg]

I'm thinking that running it through 2-3 times would pull enough out. I also failed to get a pic of me tearing down the machine for clean up. There was a good deal of sparkles in the oil in the bowl. Tiny tiny little specs. I'll refine it a little more and see what I come up with. But it's proof it works.

patracy

08-09-2008, 11:23 PM #1

I've been playing around again. I'm working on a waste oil (engine oil and veggie) filtration system that doesn't use a filter media to clean the oil. So I've been working on centrifuges.

Here's a great example of the idea in motion.
[Image: 25.jpg]

The oil is dripped into the "pan" while it's turning. Centrifugal force pushes the oil to the walls of the pan. The pan fills with oil until it's level with the upper lip. More oil is added until it begins to overflow. But during that time the heavier items sink to the wall of the pan. Allowing only the oil to be flung out.

Here's what I'm working on.

[Image: IMAG0012.jpg]

I'm using a Acme Juicer that was designed to retain the pulp and extract only the juice. (I'm going to have to remove that challenger sticker huh?) It has a basket inside that has a mesh surround. You can see here what I'm talking about.

[Image: IMAG0013.jpg]

There's been several ways to attempt sealing this off. Paint, epoxy, tape. The paint doesn't seem to work, the epoxy works, but throws the balance off. Good tape has worked wonders for others. I'm trying the tape. I figure that's the least perm. way first as well. You need quality duct tape. Not the $1 stuff you pick up at wally world. I found this stuff at home depot. It's backed with a rubbery glue that sets up a waterproof bond, according to the label.

[Image: IMAG0014.jpg]

I used a layer on the inside and a layer on the outside. This stuff is sticky! It just barely covers the mesh. But on the outside it laps just over the seam. I forced it in at the seam with the finger hoop from my snips. Here's a pic of it with inside and outside sealing.

[Image: IMAG0015.jpg]

Next I needed a way to collect the output. The front drain just pours out for your cup/bowl/whatever. I wanted to hook a hose to it. So I used a scrap of 1/2" alum fuel line I had laying around.

[Image: IMAG0016.jpg]

Then I glued it in place with good ole JB weld.

[Image: IMAG0017.jpg]

I did all that yesterday evening. Today I actually tested it.

I know some will of course question the scientificy of my "test". But I can see results with my crude test. It shows I'm heading in the right direction at least. It didn't make the oil clear again. I didn't expect it to. But it did pull a great deal of trash out of what looked like "ok" waste oil.

Note: I cleaned out all the bottles before use and poured a little alcohol in them to dry any moisture in the bottles.

Here's the unfiltered waste engine oil. Thick and sticks to the side of the bottle when shaken. I can see trash sticking to the inside walls of the bottle.

[Image: IMAG0018.jpg]

I'm going to have to develop a feed system. I was just trickling it in by hand. A ball valve should do the trick.

[Image: IMAG0019.jpg]

Here's a view of the oil flowing down into the tube as well from overhead.

[Image: IMAG0024.jpg]

And here's what the centrifuge insides looked like when I filled the first bottle.

[Image: IMAG0020.jpg]

Here's the oil in the bottle as well, it's getting aerated by the process. I'm thinking that warming the oil will cut down on it.

[Image: IMAG0021.jpg]

I began a second pass with the "filtered" oil. After the second pass I did a wipe to give you an idea of how much filth is being pulled out.

[Image: IMAG0022.jpg]

Nasty stuff
[Image: IMAG0023.jpg]

And here's a shake up of the double filtered oil.
[Image: IMAG0025.jpg]

All three stages...
[Image: IMAG0027.jpg]

I'm thinking that running it through 2-3 times would pull enough out. I also failed to get a pic of me tearing down the machine for clean up. There was a good deal of sparkles in the oil in the bowl. Tiny tiny little specs. I'll refine it a little more and see what I come up with. But it's proof it works.

winmutt

bitbanger

3,468

08-10-2008, 07:07 AM #2

What you need to do is run it through a 1 micron or smaller filter and then open up the filter. Running on used oil is a bad idea, now matter how much filtering you do, there will be elevated levels of metal containments that are not going to be good for your injectors. I mean people do it but the car will not live as long as it once had.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

winmutt

08-10-2008, 07:07 AM #2

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

~~ForcedInduction~~

Banned

3,628

08-10-2008, 05:17 PM #3

winmutt I mean people do it but the car will not live as long as it once had.

I agree completely. Definitely don't run used oil as a fuel through a car you care about.

ForcedInduction

08-10-2008, 05:17 PM #3

winmutt I mean people do it but the car will not live as long as it once had.

I agree completely. Definitely don't run used oil as a fuel through a car you care about.

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

08-10-2008, 08:06 PM #4

winmutt What you need to do is run it through a 1 micron or smaller filter and then open up the filter. Running on used oil is a bad idea, now matter how much filtering you do, there will be elevated levels of metal containments that are not going to be good for your injectors. I mean people do it but the car will not live as long as it once had.

1 micron filtration doesn't address the metals found in waste engine oils. Magnets will only pull ferrous metals. Centrifuge filtration handles sub micron particulates, and does everything by weight. You're left with the oil then and whatever the additives in the oil doesn't allow to come out of suspension.

FWIW, Cummins states you may use 5% WMO in the fuel. That's with the P pump you merc guys are so lucky to have.

I'm using WMO, because it's all I currently have at the house at the moment. This will be used for my WVO stuff though.

patracy

08-10-2008, 08:06 PM #4

winmutt What you need to do is run it through a 1 micron or smaller filter and then open up the filter. Running on used oil is a bad idea, now matter how much filtering you do, there will be elevated levels of metal containments that are not going to be good for your injectors. I mean people do it but the car will not live as long as it once had.

~~ForcedInduction~~

Banned

3,628

08-11-2008, 02:53 AM #5

Mercedes uses the MW-pump, not a P-pump.

ForcedInduction

08-11-2008, 02:53 AM #5

Mercedes uses the MW-pump, not a P-pump.

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

08-11-2008, 04:18 AM #6

ForcedInduction Mercedes uses the MW-pump, not a P-pump.

I apologize. I've only taken a passing glance at a 300D mill. I thought it was a P-pump. A MW is still a heavy duty inline pump. Much more tolerant than a rotary pump.

patracy

08-11-2008, 04:18 AM #6

ForcedInduction Mercedes uses the MW-pump, not a P-pump.

I apologize. I've only taken a passing glance at a 300D mill. I thought it was a P-pump. A MW is still a heavy duty inline pump. Much more tolerant than a rotary pump.

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

08-11-2008, 09:16 AM #7

Also to prove that it is separating, I mixed up a frothy oil/water milkshake.

[Image: IMAG0031.jpg]

You can see it's starting to pull the water out. While I wouldn't use any oil that was this bad contaminated. It's further proof the concept works.

patracy

08-11-2008, 09:16 AM #7

Also to prove that it is separating, I mixed up a frothy oil/water milkshake.

[Image: IMAG0031.jpg]

[Image: IMAG0032.jpg]

You can see it's starting to pull the water out. While I wouldn't use any oil that was this bad contaminated. It's further proof the concept works.

winmutt

bitbanger

3,468

08-13-2008, 02:40 PM #8

If nothing else it is certainly a cheap method for an additional step of straining WVO before processing for bio.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

winmutt

08-13-2008, 02:40 PM #8

If nothing else it is certainly a cheap method for an additional step of straining WVO before processing for bio.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

blowfish

Unregistered

2

06-19-2010, 01:54 PM #9

I have bought one of those centrifuge from Ebay, only thing I ddint do was connect it thru aheater, so the end result was the oil was not cleaned at all, now using a Baldwin BF971 and it seems to be working well. I run thru B 7011 first per se is a big filter, then BF 971.

Any suggestions for other Baldwin Filters?

I had a B96 too, but my pump does not have enuf power to run thru B96 then B7011.
I use a 12-24v transfer pump by fil rite.

The filter head I had on B96 & B7011 has 25 psi by pass valve I need to be careful is it opens then no filtering at all. Someday it can run up to low 20 psi, and I started to get nervous!
The BF 971 has a solid filter head no Bypass valve so is safer.
Any suggestion to make her better?

This post was last modified: 06-19-2010, 01:56 PM by blowfish.

blowfish

06-19-2010, 01:54 PM #9

GREASY_BEAST

Holset

411

06-19-2010, 06:01 PM #10

What is "one of those centrifuges from ebay"?

GREASY_BEAST

06-19-2010, 06:01 PM #10

What is "one of those centrifuges from ebay"?

willbhere4u

Six in a row make her go!

2,507

06-25-2010, 05:34 PM #11

here's what you need http://news.yahoo.com/s/ynews/ynews_ts2851

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

willbhere4u

06-25-2010, 05:34 PM #11

here's what you need http://news.yahoo.com/s/ynews/ynews_ts2851

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

chach007

Naturally-aspirated

18

12-10-2011, 12:22 AM #12

I think your home version is a cheaper alternative centerfuge than we can all afford. A little tweeking and youll have it. But i would not use old engine oil either. Yes an alternative fuel is what w are all after . After all in california we are paying $ 4.19 a gallon. But if you are going a route of enviromental reasons dont run old engine oil. I have not smelled the exhaust on that yet. I run 50% diesel and 50% home filterd used frying oil. smells great and not as big of a black cloud out the pipe. I here of trans fluid also but i am againts anymore pollutants. But thats not right either i have a diesel that smokes. I love it . Good luck with the centerfuge. and find a different source off fuel.

1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.

chach007

12-10-2011, 12:22 AM #12

1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.

garage

Bush Taxi

893

12-10-2011, 12:36 PM #13

As long as the car was cheap, and your not paying for fuel at the gas-station, run whatever you can get your hands on man.
Just know the risks involved with not filtering your fuel correctly!!...engine goes ka-put.
But if you set up the RIGHT filtration method, you can have many many happy years paying diddly-squat and driving where ever your heart desires.

Ive been running alternate fuels since i got my drivers lisence and have gone to so many places and events that i normally would not be able to afford buying diesel. I would not have it any other way!

However, i dont know that a modified juicer is a good method..
Maybe to keep in the trunk for emergencies or somthin..

This post was last modified: 12-10-2011, 12:37 PM by garage.

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

garage

12-10-2011, 12:36 PM #13

However, i dont know that a modified juicer is a good method..
Maybe to keep in the trunk for emergencies or somthin..

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

Greazzer

Superturbo

1,278

12-11-2011, 09:50 AM #14

Garage is absolutely right ! I have been buying RUG since 10/21/2011 and it is a huge drain, both financially and in regards to freedom. I used to "fill-er-up" by pulling my car into my garage. Now, I do that about 5 miles from my house and I drop off about $40-$50 per week. I cannot wait until I drive another grease machine. It is truly liberating. BTW -- almost 4 years on the grease in my old car until it got totaled and NO issues. Add up the years of saved fuel costs .... Even if my engine was on the verge of collaspe, how could that be a bad deal ? My engines compression was 300PSI plus, so I think she had a few more years left on the clock.

Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...

Greazzer

12-11-2011, 09:50 AM #14

garage

Bush Taxi

893

12-11-2011, 12:26 PM #15

Ive had the same darn experiances as you Greazzer.

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

garage

12-11-2011, 12:26 PM #15

Ive had the same darn experiances as you Greazzer.

1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...

Hario'

C300TD Wagon (W202)

894

09-22-2015, 11:23 AM #16

I think the doctors do that separation method to get the little donuts out of blood for various sciencey reasons that only god is privy to.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

Hario'

09-22-2015, 11:23 AM #16

I think the doctors do that separation method to get the little donuts out of blood for various sciencey reasons that only god is privy to.

Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]

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