Electric Fuel pump
Electric Fuel pump
12-23-2008, 10:53 AM
#1
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
![[Image: lift_pump.gif]](http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ISB/figures/lift_pump.gif)
ForcedInduction
12-23-2008, 10:53 AM
#1
How about it? That would deliver a smooth fuel flow and constant pressure to the injection pump.
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
12-23-2008, 02:04 PM
#2
GREASY_BEAST
12-23-2008, 02:04 PM #2I like it. It would also be good to replace the banjo fitting on the return line with one that releases at a higher pressure (like 20-30psi).
12-24-2008, 05:50 AM
#3
GREASY_BEAST I like it. It would also be good to replace the banjo fitting on the return line with one that releases at a higher pressure (like 20-30psi).
The old style banjos can be disassembled. Pull the spring and stretch it (to 25-28 mm expanded length).
Tom
GREASY_BEAST I like it. It would also be good to replace the banjo fitting on the return line with one that releases at a higher pressure (like 20-30psi).
The old style banjos can be disassembled. Pull the spring and stretch it (to 25-28 mm expanded length).
Tom
01-17-2009, 05:59 AM
#4
Didn't you upgrade your main fuel filter to that oversized baldwin?
totaldisaster
01-17-2009, 05:59 AM #4what is the biggest resistor in the fuel supply?
Didn't you upgrade your main fuel filter to that oversized baldwin?
01-17-2009, 06:29 AM
#5
ForcedInduction
01-17-2009, 06:29 AM
#5
I did and the Baldwin is working great, but I want to get rid of the stock pump's pulses and variable fuel pressure/output.
01-17-2009, 10:42 PM
#6
(12-23-2008, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction How about it? That would deliver a smooth fuel flow and constant pressure to the injection pump.
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
I have two pumps on my Dodge CTD. I run 27psi until I put my foot on the pedal. I have a stock pump in the tank and a BD Diesel transfer pump on the side of the Engine Block. I did this because my first VP44 IP starved and died. This works great! Im thinking of adding a pump to my 240D, it dies sometimes trying to pump veg oil.
1966 Chevelle 427BB
1980 VW Diesel Pickup
1983 240D 3.0 TD 4spd
2002 Dodge Quad 4x4 CTD
(12-23-2008, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction How about it? That would deliver a smooth fuel flow and constant pressure to the injection pump.
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
I have two pumps on my Dodge CTD. I run 27psi until I put my foot on the pedal. I have a stock pump in the tank and a BD Diesel transfer pump on the side of the Engine Block. I did this because my first VP44 IP starved and died. This works great! Im thinking of adding a pump to my 240D, it dies sometimes trying to pump veg oil.
1966 Chevelle 427BB
1980 VW Diesel Pickup
1983 240D 3.0 TD 4spd
2002 Dodge Quad 4x4 CTD
01-18-2009, 11:04 PM
#7
Lincolnlock
01-18-2009, 11:04 PM #7Just buy a Holley blue pump. They are way cheaper and flow quite a bit more than the crappy cummins pumps that are prone to failure.
01-19-2009, 10:40 AM
#8
The FueLab pump is brushless, and $350. http://fuelab.com/prod.php?pk=1
ForcedInduction
01-19-2009, 10:40 AM
#8
The downside is the decent aftermarket pumps are all $200-350.
The FueLab pump is brushless, and $350. http://fuelab.com/prod.php?pk=1
01-19-2009, 08:43 PM
#9
(01-18-2009, 11:04 PM)Lincolnlock Just buy a Holley blue pump. They are way cheaper and flow quite a bit more than the crappy cummins pumps that are prone to failure.
only $135 here
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch....2&D=307782
probably get it cheaper somewhere else , have to shop it around
lincolnlock,
you are having no trouble using the Holley unit with diesel ?
but that fuelab pump looks like a nice unit.
lots of $$ tho
This post was last modified: 01-19-2009, 08:44 PM by oel_brenner.
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
01-19-2009, 08:43 PM #9(01-18-2009, 11:04 PM)Lincolnlock Just buy a Holley blue pump. They are way cheaper and flow quite a bit more than the crappy cummins pumps that are prone to failure.
only $135 here
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch....2&D=307782
probably get it cheaper somewhere else , have to shop it around
lincolnlock,
you are having no trouble using the Holley unit with diesel ?
but that fuelab pump looks like a nice unit.
lots of $$ tho
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
01-19-2009, 09:27 PM
#10
ForcedInduction
01-19-2009, 09:27 PM
#10
"maximum pressure of 14 psi" is the deal killer. Our engines need to be around 30psi.
06-14-2009, 04:57 PM
#11
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.co...pumps.html
225 LPH seems like sufficient, no?
This post was last modified: 06-14-2009, 04:58 PM by Telecommbrkr.
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@
Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Telecommbrkr
06-14-2009, 04:57 PM #11Is there a difference between flow and pressure requirements for our engines? I found these pumps at a very reasonable price, and others are using these with the OM617 with positive results.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.co...pumps.html
225 LPH seems like sufficient, no?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
06-14-2009, 06:23 PM
#12
I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
This post was last modified: 06-14-2009, 06:26 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
06-14-2009, 06:23 PM
#12
Reciprocating pumps suck. They are loud, vibrate, pulse the fuel flow and are cheap for a reason.
I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
06-16-2009, 10:00 PM
#13
(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction Reciprocating pumps suck. They are loud, vibrate, pulse the fuel flow and are cheap for a reason.
I take it these pumps might not be good?
(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
Do you have a part number, or any specs on what this pump is putting out?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Telecommbrkr
06-16-2009, 10:00 PM #13(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction Reciprocating pumps suck. They are loud, vibrate, pulse the fuel flow and are cheap for a reason.
I take it these pumps might not be good?
(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
Do you have a part number, or any specs on what this pump is putting out?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
06-16-2009, 10:20 PM
#14
GREASY_BEAST
06-16-2009, 10:20 PM #14Not to be a fly in the unguent, but why is pulsing bad? That said, I have a solution in the works that doesn't pulse. Maybe it will be done by the end of the summer. Hint: it works by virtue of boundary-layer adhesion.
11-21-2009, 11:35 PM
#15
(06-16-2009, 10:20 PM)GREASY_BEAST Not to be a fly in the unguent, but why is pulsing bad? That said, I have a solution in the works that doesn't pulse. Maybe it will be done by the end of the summer. Hint: it works by virtue of boundary-layer adhesion.
tesla turbine?
11-22-2009, 12:38 AM
#16
I've been thinking about adding a supplemental pump (my gas-based chassis has the harness and spot next to the tank for a pump) I have a good gas pump but I don't think it will perform well with the more viscous diesel/oil.
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
So is the idea here to replace the mechanical lift pump or to supplement it?
I've been thinking about adding a supplemental pump (my gas-based chassis has the harness and spot next to the tank for a pump) I have a good gas pump but I don't think it will perform well with the more viscous diesel/oil.
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
11-23-2009, 12:36 PM
#17
Benefits are numerous. Idle is improved in terms of smoothness, since the fuel pressure is near constant compared to the very pulsed output from the factory pump. "Throttle" response and tip in are also improved for better drive-ability. Best of all is a noticeable increase in high rpm performance, and more power overall. It is subtle at first, but noticeable, becoming more and more apparent as the rpms increase. To note, this is with the 5.5mm elements on a w123 MW pump.
DervTuning
11-23-2009, 12:36 PM #17For the last ~20K miles, I am using a Bosch external electric pump for a petrol engine. I forget the listing, but it is for a CIS application, raises the pump pressure to just above the regulator at the outlet banjo, and has no problems otherwise. Current draw is <5 amps since the pressure is low as compared to a CIS car, and is quiet as well.
Benefits are numerous. Idle is improved in terms of smoothness, since the fuel pressure is near constant compared to the very pulsed output from the factory pump. "Throttle" response and tip in are also improved for better drive-ability. Best of all is a noticeable increase in high rpm performance, and more power overall. It is subtle at first, but noticeable, becoming more and more apparent as the rpms increase. To note, this is with the 5.5mm elements on a w123 MW pump.
11-24-2009, 06:39 PM
#18
(11-21-2009, 11:35 PM)cell tesla turbine?
Precisely, I found someone's Mechanical Engineering PhD thesis that discusses the design parameters of such a device, and I used these to size one for this application. I have all the parts, possibly even a usable motor, although it might not be powerful enough. Unfortunately, I have had zero time to build it, and probably won't get around to it for quite some time. If/when I do I will post results.
Its good to hear someone had some success replacing the lift pump, however I cannot imagine how/why it would affect a difference in power output, unless there is an air leak somewhere, or the elements are creating sufficient vacuum on the downstroke at high rpm to vaporize the fuel... Recall that fuel isn't compressible in liquid form.
GREASY_BEAST
11-24-2009, 06:39 PM #18(11-21-2009, 11:35 PM)cell tesla turbine?
Precisely, I found someone's Mechanical Engineering PhD thesis that discusses the design parameters of such a device, and I used these to size one for this application. I have all the parts, possibly even a usable motor, although it might not be powerful enough. Unfortunately, I have had zero time to build it, and probably won't get around to it for quite some time. If/when I do I will post results.
Its good to hear someone had some success replacing the lift pump, however I cannot imagine how/why it would affect a difference in power output, unless there is an air leak somewhere, or the elements are creating sufficient vacuum on the downstroke at high rpm to vaporize the fuel... Recall that fuel isn't compressible in liquid form.
11-24-2009, 09:19 PM
#19
(11-24-2009, 06:39 PM)GREASY_BEAST Recall that fuel isn't compressible in liquid form.
Not significantly in the low pressure fuel system anyways.
ForcedInduction
11-24-2009, 09:19 PM
#19
(11-24-2009, 06:39 PM)GREASY_BEAST Recall that fuel isn't compressible in liquid form.
Not significantly in the low pressure fuel system anyways.
11-25-2009, 09:51 PM
#20
(06-16-2009, 10:00 PM)Telecommbrkr(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction Reciprocating pumps suck. They are loud, vibrate, pulse the fuel flow and are cheap for a reason.
I take it these pumps might not be good?
(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
Do you have a part number, or any specs on what this pump is putting out?
The powerstroke high pressure pump is a 40-60 psi spec. Big money though, unless you rip them out of a yard. Its like 2-300 bucks. For that I would spend some more and get an adjustable FASS or RAPTOR pump.
(06-16-2009, 10:00 PM)Telecommbrkr(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction Reciprocating pumps suck. They are loud, vibrate, pulse the fuel flow and are cheap for a reason.
I take it these pumps might not be good?
(06-14-2009, 06:23 PM)ForcedInduction I wouldn't spend under $100 for a decent electric fuel pump to replace the stock mechanical unit. I've had my eye on the ones used to feed the 7.3L Powerchokes.
Do you have a part number, or any specs on what this pump is putting out?
The powerstroke high pressure pump is a 40-60 psi spec. Big money though, unless you rip them out of a yard. Its like 2-300 bucks. For that I would spend some more and get an adjustable FASS or RAPTOR pump.
11-30-2009, 01:16 AM
#21
(12-23-2008, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction How about it? That would deliver a smooth fuel flow and constant pressure to the injection pump.
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
Try using an all purpose Carter. I had a Carter on my dodge (because the delphi pump is trash) but I upgraded to the FASS DDRP (fass direct dodge replacement pump) I have been very happy...
My $0.02...
(12-23-2008, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction How about it? That would deliver a smooth fuel flow and constant pressure to the injection pump.
I've used electric oscillating pumps on other things (transfer pumps) and they are junk at best. I had the Cummins pump in mind but it is only set to pump 15psi and has a 5psi high flow pressure. I want to run 25-30 psi across the RPM range.
Try using an all purpose Carter. I had a Carter on my dodge (because the delphi pump is trash) but I upgraded to the FASS DDRP (fass direct dodge replacement pump) I have been very happy...
My $0.02...
06-25-2010, 07:57 AM
#22
Some things to think about:
1. What is the max fuel flow required for a given set of elements at max power/RPM?
My rough calculations indicate a need for 100+ gal/hr at 6000 RPM with larger than stock elements @ max power. Anyone have a stroke length or actual CC rating for these pumps at max?
2. What is the correct pressure to achieve adequate element filling at high RPM's?
Forced is saying 30 which sounds fair. I also think we could use the trucks as a model - my F250 pump puts out around 65 PSI. Anyone know the GPH spec. for the PSD pump?
3. How do we regulate the pressure?
Do we modify the stock relief valve or plug the relief port and use an external bypass regulator? The PSD guys have been modifying their fuel systems with external regulators and removing the "ball and spring" type stock regulators with good results. Only thing is that these regulators are pretty expensive.
Also consider that we will have to wire in oil pressure switches and relays for safety to shut the pump off when the engine quits. I can also see adding a curcuit to the GP relay to get the engine going before the oil pressure comes up.
All in all, it's looking like a $500 upgrade once it's all said and done. But it may be required if the existing system doesn't meet the engine's fueling requirements.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Thought I'd revive this discussion since I've been thinking about this on my car now.
Some things to think about:
1. What is the max fuel flow required for a given set of elements at max power/RPM?
My rough calculations indicate a need for 100+ gal/hr at 6000 RPM with larger than stock elements @ max power. Anyone have a stroke length or actual CC rating for these pumps at max?
2. What is the correct pressure to achieve adequate element filling at high RPM's?
Forced is saying 30 which sounds fair. I also think we could use the trucks as a model - my F250 pump puts out around 65 PSI. Anyone know the GPH spec. for the PSD pump?
3. How do we regulate the pressure?
Do we modify the stock relief valve or plug the relief port and use an external bypass regulator? The PSD guys have been modifying their fuel systems with external regulators and removing the "ball and spring" type stock regulators with good results. Only thing is that these regulators are pretty expensive.
Also consider that we will have to wire in oil pressure switches and relays for safety to shut the pump off when the engine quits. I can also see adding a curcuit to the GP relay to get the engine going before the oil pressure comes up.
All in all, it's looking like a $500 upgrade once it's all said and done. But it may be required if the existing system doesn't meet the engine's fueling requirements.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
06-25-2010, 08:40 AM
#23
Ive seen somewhere (did try and find it....) that a pump flow of 170ccm per 1000 strokes, per element at WOT and Full delivery is what one of the Finnish guys was running on his 605 Super-Turbo, pushing summit like 450 BHP--Think thats what it was anyway, Defo 170ccm/1000 though.....
Its always a good idea to get rid of that pulsing from the standard lift-pump, fuel-press is all over the place on std installation, and while this doesnt seem to make a Huge difference to a Standard engine it'll prolly affect a Tuned motor quite badly.....
![[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]](http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z128/alastairhcii/300TDnoplate.jpg)
Alastair E
06-25-2010, 08:40 AM #23Yup, 100gall/hr should do it......
Ive seen somewhere (did try and find it....) that a pump flow of 170ccm per 1000 strokes, per element at WOT and Full delivery is what one of the Finnish guys was running on his 605 Super-Turbo, pushing summit like 450 BHP--Think thats what it was anyway, Defo 170ccm/1000 though.....
Its always a good idea to get rid of that pulsing from the standard lift-pump, fuel-press is all over the place on std installation, and while this doesnt seem to make a Huge difference to a Standard engine it'll prolly affect a Tuned motor quite badly.....
06-25-2010, 02:21 PM
#24
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...pumps.html
Regulator:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
I'd use the 70152 pump and 10671 regulator
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-25-2010, 02:21 PM #24Pumps:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...pumps.html
Regulator:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
I'd use the 70152 pump and 10671 regulator
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
06-26-2010, 04:00 AM
#25
I think this would help start engine after been driving empty, but it may have other positive features on a standard engine too?
Would this be a good idea on a standard engine(603A), could I Use a standard pump from petrol(same as used on single pump 300E), normal work-pressure is about 70 PSI(5 bar) and I think maximal pressure is about 100 PSI(7 bar), what will regulate the pressure?
I think this would help start engine after been driving empty, but it may have other positive features on a standard engine too?
06-27-2010, 04:44 AM
#27
(06-25-2010, 07:57 AM)E300TSC Thought I'd revive this discussion since I've been thinking about this on my car now.
Some things to think about:
3. How do we regulate the pressure?
Do we modify the stock relief valve or plug the relief port and use an external bypass regulator? The PSD guys have been modifying their fuel systems with external regulators and removing the "ball and spring" type stock regulators with good results. Only thing is that these regulators are pretty expensive.
purging the IP and important: cooling. These points are against plugging the stock overflow valve.
I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
Tom
(06-25-2010, 07:57 AM)E300TSC Thought I'd revive this discussion since I've been thinking about this on my car now.
Some things to think about:
3. How do we regulate the pressure?
Do we modify the stock relief valve or plug the relief port and use an external bypass regulator? The PSD guys have been modifying their fuel systems with external regulators and removing the "ball and spring" type stock regulators with good results. Only thing is that these regulators are pretty expensive.
purging the IP and important: cooling. These points are against plugging the stock overflow valve.
I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
Tom
06-27-2010, 11:48 AM
#28
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Telecommbrkr
06-27-2010, 11:48 AM #28Ok so I buy the pump and regulator from retrotekspeed above. I can put this setup possibly with the addition of a larger fuel filter inline anywhere between the tank and the engine, bypass the stock lift pump and filter tie the return line into the regulator and that's it?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
06-27-2010, 03:25 PM
#29
(06-27-2010, 11:48 AM)Telecommbrkr Ok so I buy the pump and regulator from retrotekspeed above. I can put this setup possibly with the addition of a larger fuel filter inline anywhere between the tank and the engine, bypass the stock lift pump and filter tie the return line into the regulator and that's it?
Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
This post was last modified: 06-27-2010, 03:27 PM by GREASY_BEAST.
GREASY_BEAST
06-27-2010, 03:25 PM #29(06-27-2010, 11:48 AM)Telecommbrkr Ok so I buy the pump and regulator from retrotekspeed above. I can put this setup possibly with the addition of a larger fuel filter inline anywhere between the tank and the engine, bypass the stock lift pump and filter tie the return line into the regulator and that's it?
Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
06-27-2010, 03:36 PM
#30
Hydraulic oil is still a thicker viscosity. Might I suggest a "Jabsco type" nibrile impellor (Marine raw water & oil/diesil transfer) type pump as the volume supplier to the gear pump with a bypass regulator? It might make the most sense. You can already get them with the right electric motor on them. I have several(for oil changes on marine engines) & 1 is rated for 100 GPH for cold oil. That would guesstimately be 150 - 174 GPH of diesel. "Globe impellor" in Brocton, MA. has nearly indestructible impellors that can pass lots of sand with very little change in performance(34' sportsfish grounded in the middle of the ICW north of the first bridge in Daytona FL with twin cummins. Had 1 engine running for 4 1/2 hours while dragging ourselves off the sandbar with 2 anchors & the windlass, traveled another 500 miles to port & pulled both impellors & could barely tell the difference). That gives you delivery, pressure & regulation. I wonder if the right "Jabsco/Sherwood" type pump might even be able to do delivery & pressure? If mechanical drive is wanted, they are simple to install in any belt system.
Options:
1: "Transfer/Jabsco/Sherwood" type pump with "Globe or Nitrile/Nibrile" impellor feeding volume to Gearotor hydraulic pump with bypass regulator (Both pumps can be run electric or belt[Applies to all])
2: Large enough "T/J/S" pump to easily supply volume & delivery pressures across the board with bypass regulator.
3: Hydraulic pump alone ( might have problems with viscosity, wear, priming & draw)
OK, there's my rant. "You may be right, I may be crazy" You know the rest...
Ed
yankneck696
06-27-2010, 03:36 PM #30<<I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.>>
Hydraulic oil is still a thicker viscosity. Might I suggest a "Jabsco type" nibrile impellor (Marine raw water & oil/diesil transfer) type pump as the volume supplier to the gear pump with a bypass regulator? It might make the most sense. You can already get them with the right electric motor on them. I have several(for oil changes on marine engines) & 1 is rated for 100 GPH for cold oil. That would guesstimately be 150 - 174 GPH of diesel. "Globe impellor" in Brocton, MA. has nearly indestructible impellors that can pass lots of sand with very little change in performance(34' sportsfish grounded in the middle of the ICW north of the first bridge in Daytona FL with twin cummins. Had 1 engine running for 4 1/2 hours while dragging ourselves off the sandbar with 2 anchors & the windlass, traveled another 500 miles to port & pulled both impellors & could barely tell the difference). That gives you delivery, pressure & regulation. I wonder if the right "Jabsco/Sherwood" type pump might even be able to do delivery & pressure? If mechanical drive is wanted, they are simple to install in any belt system.
Options:
1: "Transfer/Jabsco/Sherwood" type pump with "Globe or Nitrile/Nibrile" impellor feeding volume to Gearotor hydraulic pump with bypass regulator (Both pumps can be run electric or belt[Applies to all])
2: Large enough "T/J/S" pump to easily supply volume & delivery pressures across the board with bypass regulator.
3: Hydraulic pump alone ( might have problems with viscosity, wear, priming & draw)
OK, there's my rant. "You may be right, I may be crazy" You know the rest...
Ed
06-27-2010, 06:16 PM
#31
(06-27-2010, 03:25 PM)GREASY_BEAST Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
I have recently bought a whole pile of viton rubber hose to replace my whole fuel system lines to be able to run biodiesel. Will this hose work? Will it say on the hose what pressure it's rated for? What pressure rating should I be looking for, one that exceeds the max of the pumps rated psi output?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Telecommbrkr
06-27-2010, 06:16 PM #31(06-27-2010, 03:25 PM)GREASY_BEAST Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
I have recently bought a whole pile of viton rubber hose to replace my whole fuel system lines to be able to run biodiesel. Will this hose work? Will it say on the hose what pressure it's rated for? What pressure rating should I be looking for, one that exceeds the max of the pumps rated psi output?
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
06-27-2010, 11:15 PM
#32
The injection system shouldn't need any more than 30psi so I doubt your viton hose will have a problem with the pressure.
ForcedInduction
06-27-2010, 11:15 PM
#32
Most standard "fuel hose" like you'd get at a parts counter will have a working pressure around 50psi and a burst pressure around 150psi. It all depends on the material and design/standard.
The injection system shouldn't need any more than 30psi so I doubt your viton hose will have a problem with the pressure.
06-28-2010, 09:19 AM
#33
The regulator front is something I'm still not sure about. I'll initially try using the stock "regulator". If that doesn't work, I'll probably use a setup like a DIY boost controller. That's basically all a regulator is for us diesel guys. Gassers have a regulator that will increase fuel pressure when there is no vacuum in the intake manifold (automatic "fuel enrichment" under load), which makes those aftermarket regulators expensive, and is something we don't need at all.
My $.02
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
Diesel is also a much better lubricant. I don't think we can say one way or the other until someone has some miles on a gasser pump.
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
That sounds like the high pressure pump. I don't think that will work well at all. Two things, it is designed to produce 1600 bar, and my CDI has a fuel pump in the tank to provide diesel to the high pressure pump. Basically, it is probably horribly inefficient at 30psi, and I have no idea if it is self priming.
This post was last modified: 06-28-2010, 09:26 AM by Tymbrymi.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
Personally, I plan on using the CIS fuel pump out of my parts '90 300TE. It is a stock setup so it already has all the mounting brackets, etc. which should save some time. Also, it should have no problem running any pressure I want, and it should be CHEAP to buy even if I didn't have a parts car to snag it from.
The regulator front is something I'm still not sure about. I'll initially try using the stock "regulator". If that doesn't work, I'll probably use a setup like a DIY boost controller. That's basically all a regulator is for us diesel guys. Gassers have a regulator that will increase fuel pressure when there is no vacuum in the intake manifold (automatic "fuel enrichment" under load), which makes those aftermarket regulators expensive, and is something we don't need at all.
My $.02
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
Diesel is also a much better lubricant. I don't think we can say one way or the other until someone has some miles on a gasser pump.
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
That sounds like the high pressure pump. I don't think that will work well at all. Two things, it is designed to produce 1600 bar, and my CDI has a fuel pump in the tank to provide diesel to the high pressure pump. Basically, it is probably horribly inefficient at 30psi, and I have no idea if it is self priming.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
06-28-2010, 01:45 PM
#34
(06-28-2010, 09:19 AM)Tymbrymi Personally, I plan on using the CIS fuel pump out of my parts '90 300TE. It is a stock setup so it already has all the mounting brackets, etc. which should save some time. Also, it should have no problem running any pressure I want, and it should be CHEAP to buy even if I didn't have a parts car to snag it from.
The regulator front is something I'm still not sure about. I'll initially try using the stock "regulator". If that doesn't work, I'll probably use a setup like a DIY boost controller. That's basically all a regulator is for us diesel guys. Gassers have a regulator that will increase fuel pressure when there is no vacuum in the intake manifold (automatic "fuel enrichment" under load), which makes those aftermarket regulators expensive, and is something we don't need at all.
My $.02
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
Diesel is also a much better lubricant. I don't think we can say one way or the other until someone has some miles on a gasser pump.
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
That sounds like the high pressure pump. I don't think that will work well at all. Two things, it is designed to produce 1600 bar, and my CDI has a fuel pump in the tank to provide diesel to the high pressure pump. Basically, it is probably horribly inefficient at 30psi, and I have no idea if it is self priming.
Nah, The pump Tomnik has is the CDi Camshaft-Driven 'Lift-Pump' its a small internal/external gear pump intended to Feed the Rail Pump with fuel...
Its Not the Rail pump itself or the elect pump from the tank, this is the Engine-Driven pump which raises pressure prior to the rail-pump, and will be Most Suitable!
Alastair E
06-28-2010, 01:45 PM #34(06-28-2010, 09:19 AM)Tymbrymi Personally, I plan on using the CIS fuel pump out of my parts '90 300TE. It is a stock setup so it already has all the mounting brackets, etc. which should save some time. Also, it should have no problem running any pressure I want, and it should be CHEAP to buy even if I didn't have a parts car to snag it from.
The regulator front is something I'm still not sure about. I'll initially try using the stock "regulator". If that doesn't work, I'll probably use a setup like a DIY boost controller. That's basically all a regulator is for us diesel guys. Gassers have a regulator that will increase fuel pressure when there is no vacuum in the intake manifold (automatic "fuel enrichment" under load), which makes those aftermarket regulators expensive, and is something we don't need at all.
My $.02
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I don't have a good feeling with gasser pumps. Diesel has higher viscosity and the pump is running all the time (against pressure).
Diesel is also a much better lubricant. I don't think we can say one way or the other until someone has some miles on a gasser pump.
(06-27-2010, 04:44 AM)tomnik I have a "tooth gear" pump from CDIs on my table. This is a small "hydraulic" pump that I will drive as a test with a wiper motor, later maybe mechanically from somewhere on the engine. The pump has an adjustable pressure by-pass valve. Mechanically driven by engine rpm also makes some sense.
That sounds like the high pressure pump. I don't think that will work well at all. Two things, it is designed to produce 1600 bar, and my CDI has a fuel pump in the tank to provide diesel to the high pressure pump. Basically, it is probably horribly inefficient at 30psi, and I have no idea if it is self priming.
Nah, The pump Tomnik has is the CDi Camshaft-Driven 'Lift-Pump' its a small internal/external gear pump intended to Feed the Rail Pump with fuel...
Its Not the Rail pump itself or the elect pump from the tank, this is the Engine-Driven pump which raises pressure prior to the rail-pump, and will be Most Suitable!
06-28-2010, 04:51 PM
#35
(06-28-2010, 01:45 PM)Alastair E Nah, The pump Tomnik has is the CDi Camshaft-Driven 'Lift-Pump' its a small internal/external gear pump intended to Feed the Rail Pump with fuel...
Its Not the Rail pump itself or the elect pump from the tank, this is the Engine-Driven pump which raises pressure prior to the rail-pump, and will be Most Suitable!
All I know is that for my E320 CDI, there are only two fuel pumps... The in-tank pump, and the high pressure pump. See attached PDF for the fuel diagram for it.
Attached Files
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(06-28-2010, 01:45 PM)Alastair E Nah, The pump Tomnik has is the CDi Camshaft-Driven 'Lift-Pump' its a small internal/external gear pump intended to Feed the Rail Pump with fuel...
Its Not the Rail pump itself or the elect pump from the tank, this is the Engine-Driven pump which raises pressure prior to the rail-pump, and will be Most Suitable!
All I know is that for my E320 CDI, there are only two fuel pumps... The in-tank pump, and the high pressure pump. See attached PDF for the fuel diagram for it.
Attached Files
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
06-29-2010, 04:07 AM
#36
Your 320 is from '05 and I believe 3rd generation common rail.
The gear pump has clamping connections that are for sure not rail pressure, but it is small and has an adjustable pressure limiter integrated (and it is available here for little money).
Tom
mine is an early generation fuel lift pump like Alastair mentioned (Thx).
Your 320 is from '05 and I believe 3rd generation common rail.
The gear pump has clamping connections that are for sure not rail pressure, but it is small and has an adjustable pressure limiter integrated (and it is available here for little money).
Tom
06-29-2010, 06:34 AM
#37
(06-27-2010, 03:25 PM)GREASY_BEAST Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
This post was last modified: 06-29-2010, 06:36 AM by rdirtycar.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
(06-27-2010, 03:25 PM)GREASY_BEAST Remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a cover plate, continue to use the stock fuel filter. Upgrade all high pressure hoses to fuel injection hose. But you have the right idea.
If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
06-29-2010, 09:29 AM
#38
(06-29-2010, 04:07 AM)tomnik mine is an early generation fuel lift pump like Alastair mentioned (Thx).
Your 320 is from '05 and I believe 3rd generation common rail.
The gear pump has clamping connections that are for sure not rail pressure, but it is small and has an adjustable pressure limiter integrated (and it is available here for little money).
Nevermind then!
Sounds like it will be a good little pump if you can find a good way of driving it. (06-29-2010, 06:34 AM)rdirtycar If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
It should be a self bleeding affair at that point. The pump will act exactly like the hand pump. As soon as it is turned on it will start pumping fuel through the system and force all the air out.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(06-29-2010, 04:07 AM)tomnik mine is an early generation fuel lift pump like Alastair mentioned (Thx).
Your 320 is from '05 and I believe 3rd generation common rail.
The gear pump has clamping connections that are for sure not rail pressure, but it is small and has an adjustable pressure limiter integrated (and it is available here for little money).
Nevermind then!
Sounds like it will be a good little pump if you can find a good way of driving it. (06-29-2010, 06:34 AM)rdirtycar If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
It should be a self bleeding affair at that point. The pump will act exactly like the hand pump. As soon as it is turned on it will start pumping fuel through the system and force all the air out.
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
06-29-2010, 04:49 PM
#39
(06-29-2010, 09:29 AM)Tymbrymi(06-29-2010, 06:34 AM)rdirtycar If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
It should be a self bleeding affair at that point. The pump will act exactly like the hand pump. As soon as it is turned on it will start pumping fuel through the system and force all the air out.
So just turn the car to "on" for a few seconds and the air will just push itself out... How does the system maintain the 30 or so PSI if its bleeding back to the tank? Is the fuel pressure held at 30 PSI by that banjo fitting you guys were talking about like a pressure regulating spring in the engine lubrication system? I assume this is the spring Forced was talking about stretching a bit to boost the pressure in the fuel feed side of the system..
This post was last modified: 06-30-2010, 11:17 AM by rdirtycar.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
(06-29-2010, 09:29 AM)Tymbrymi(06-29-2010, 06:34 AM)rdirtycar If the stock lift pump is removed along with the hand primer pump attached to it, how would one bleed the system after filter change, etc.?
It should be a self bleeding affair at that point. The pump will act exactly like the hand pump. As soon as it is turned on it will start pumping fuel through the system and force all the air out.
So just turn the car to "on" for a few seconds and the air will just push itself out... How does the system maintain the 30 or so PSI if its bleeding back to the tank? Is the fuel pressure held at 30 PSI by that banjo fitting you guys were talking about like a pressure regulating spring in the engine lubrication system? I assume this is the spring Forced was talking about stretching a bit to boost the pressure in the fuel feed side of the system..
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
06-30-2010, 01:15 PM
#41
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
This post was last modified: 06-30-2010, 01:16 PM by Captain America.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-30-2010, 01:15 PM #41Regulator:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
06-30-2010, 01:24 PM
#42
No regulator and it is good at least 200hp/ltr.
http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=32
OM605 600hp diesel drag car build with BMW E30 chassis
Hello. I have on my super turbo, Holley HP150 what i use trancfer pump.
No regulator and it is good at least 200hp/ltr.
http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=32
OM605 600hp diesel drag car build with BMW E30 chassis
07-01-2010, 06:40 AM
#43
(06-30-2010, 01:15 PM)Captain America Regulator:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
zing.... Is that what you use?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
(06-30-2010, 01:15 PM)Captain America Regulator:
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/fu...lator.html
zing.... Is that what you use?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-01-2010, 12:56 PM
#44
I could easily try the RetroTek Speed pump and regulator since I am the one who makes them but I'm not in the "Super Turbo Diesel" category yet therefore I do not have the need for this type of setup.
if you guys want, I could try it out for ya.... when you bypass the mechanical lift pump, can it run dry? or does it get lubricated with the fuel moving through it? who sells a block off plate for it?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-01-2010, 12:56 PM #44I use it on gas cars all day long. Never tried it with diesel though with the thicker viscosity...
I could easily try the RetroTek Speed pump and regulator since I am the one who makes them but I'm not in the "Super Turbo Diesel" category yet therefore I do not have the need for this type of setup.
if you guys want, I could try it out for ya.... when you bypass the mechanical lift pump, can it run dry? or does it get lubricated with the fuel moving through it? who sells a block off plate for it?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-01-2010, 03:59 PM
#45
yankneck696
07-01-2010, 03:59 PM #45<<who sells a block off plate for it? >> I've made many out of just a piece of plate steel. Or, you can gut the pump, get 2 gaskets & sandwich a piece of sheet metal between them & then bolt the pump on. I've never done a Merc like this, but many other applocations.
07-01-2010, 04:18 PM
#46
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-01-2010, 04:18 PM #46Yeah, I know what you mean... I do it on small block Chevys, and fords all day. wasnt sure if you can run the pump dry though...?...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-01-2010, 04:28 PM
#47
it'll probably be set to 25psi all the time. can a lighter spring be installed to account for the higher viscosity of the diesel fuel?
This post was last modified: 07-01-2010, 04:32 PM by rdirtycar.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
the fuel supply to the IP is pretty weak on mine. It bogs on the hills bad. I am planning on getting a good electric fuel pump and I'll need some sort of regulator on the return. I'm sure an adjustment from 25-75 psi is enough to tune the differences between gas and diesel out. I'll be purchasing one of these regulators for sure.
it'll probably be set to 25psi all the time. can a lighter spring be installed to account for the higher viscosity of the diesel fuel?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-01-2010, 05:14 PM
#48
(07-01-2010, 04:28 PM)rdirtycar the fuel supply to the IP is pretty weak on mine. It bogs on the hills bad. I am planning on getting a good electric fuel pump and I'll need some sort of regulator on the return. I'm sure an adjustment from 25-75 psi is enough to tune the differences between gas and diesel out. I'll be purchasing one of these regulators for sure.
it'll probably be set to 25psi all the time. can a lighter spring be installed to account for the higher viscosity of the diesel fuel?
Personally I would only use the one rated for diesel fuel which is the fuelab fpr.
(07-01-2010, 04:28 PM)rdirtycar the fuel supply to the IP is pretty weak on mine. It bogs on the hills bad. I am planning on getting a good electric fuel pump and I'll need some sort of regulator on the return. I'm sure an adjustment from 25-75 psi is enough to tune the differences between gas and diesel out. I'll be purchasing one of these regulators for sure.
it'll probably be set to 25psi all the time. can a lighter spring be installed to account for the higher viscosity of the diesel fuel?
07-01-2010, 05:29 PM
#49
GREASY_BEAST
07-01-2010, 05:29 PM #49What's wrong with the FPR in return banjo? Just put a bigger spring in it to get the pressure you want.
07-01-2010, 06:11 PM
#50
There shouldn't be a compatibility issue everything is Viton
Here is a better link: http://www.professional-products.com/fuelregulators.php
I'm am not trying to sell these, just pointing out that they cost about $100 whereas the fuelab one costs $160
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-01-2010, 06:11 PM #50I don't see why you would have a problem...
There shouldn't be a compatibility issue everything is Viton
Here is a better link: http://www.professional-products.com/fuelregulators.php
I'm am not trying to sell these, just pointing out that they cost about $100 whereas the fuelab one costs $160
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Users browsing this thread:
50 Guest(s)
50 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
50 Guest(s)
50 Guest(s)