axle compatibility, 1 piece vs 2 piece on 123/126 chassis
axle compatibility, 1 piece vs 2 piece on 123/126 chassis
Specifically, Im curious if I can use a diff that was made and sold with one version with the other? My axles are still good on my 1980 240, and I would like to see how it rides with a 1983 300D 3.07 rear end in it.
Can I use the older axles, or would there be a shim spec of depth issue I would run into?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I have the older style axles, (I can never remember what they are called), the ones with an external bolt flange vs the ones that you have to remove the diff cover and pop a snap ring.
Specifically, Im curious if I can use a diff that was made and sold with one version with the other? My axles are still good on my 1980 240, and I would like to see how it rides with a 1983 300D 3.07 rear end in it.
Can I use the older axles, or would there be a shim spec of depth issue I would run into?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
you can even mix them and not have any problems.
the Annular are just easier to work with once the stub piece is mounted in the Differential. when one has to be changed, just remove the bolt in the hub, remove the six at the Diff. end, push towards the hub, drop down and pull out.
I have read the spacer goes with the Differential, and also read the spacer goes with the axle.
Important thing is the "C" clip should fit snug w/o any play.. they can be purchased from the dealer in the various sizes.
Charlie
NOTE: the "C" clip should fit snug. It is the spacers that can be purchased from the Dealer in the various sizes.
The axles can go either way, doesn`t matter. the all one piece is refered to as the Homokenetics, and the two piece is the Annular.
you can even mix them and not have any problems.
the Annular are just easier to work with once the stub piece is mounted in the Differential. when one has to be changed, just remove the bolt in the hub, remove the six at the Diff. end, push towards the hub, drop down and pull out.
I have read the spacer goes with the Differential, and also read the spacer goes with the axle.
Important thing is the "C" clip should fit snug w/o any play.. they can be purchased from the dealer in the various sizes.
Charlie
NOTE: the "C" clip should fit snug. It is the spacers that can be purchased from the Dealer in the various sizes.
The annulars do look way easier to service, im excited that the car has them to begin with, and they are not yet horribly cracked. I give it a few months though.
thanks
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ok great, I have a number of C clips from multiple junk yard homokenetic axle failures until I wised up and just bought some new ones.
The annulars do look way easier to service, im excited that the car has them to begin with, and they are not yet horribly cracked. I give it a few months though.
thanks
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ForcedInduction
06-10-2010, 05:39 AM
#4
I too prefer annulars for their ease of service, but you have to make dang sure the bolts are torqued properly and preferably with loctite applied.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
is there a torque spec for those bolts? Ill remember that about he loctite, I already carry around the blue stuff anyway, should these be with red?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-09-2010, 09:52 PM)dropnosky ok great, I have a number of C clips from multiple junk yard homokenetic axle failures until I wised up and just bought some new ones.
The annulars do look way easier to service, im excited that the car has them to begin with, and they are not yet horribly cracked. I give it a few months though.
thanks
I think I might have missled you some in my first post.
The "C" clip should fit snug, true. It is the spacers that can be purchased from the dealer in various thicknesses. I don`t know the range they are in though.
I forgot to mention to use Locktite in my first post.
If any of the Chinese axles are purchased, make sure to double check these bolts. especially if changing from Homo to annular axles. don`t just change them over and think you are good to go.
there were a few member over on Peach Parts that had the bolts loosen up.
Charlie
(06-09-2010, 09:52 PM)dropnosky ok great, I have a number of C clips from multiple junk yard homokenetic axle failures until I wised up and just bought some new ones.
The annulars do look way easier to service, im excited that the car has them to begin with, and they are not yet horribly cracked. I give it a few months though.
thanks
I think I might have missled you some in my first post.
The "C" clip should fit snug, true. It is the spacers that can be purchased from the dealer in various thicknesses. I don`t know the range they are in though.
I forgot to mention to use Locktite in my first post.
If any of the Chinese axles are purchased, make sure to double check these bolts. especially if changing from Homo to annular axles. don`t just change them over and think you are good to go.
there were a few member over on Peach Parts that had the bolts loosen up.
Charlie
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
That was me. They (GSP?) improved their QA, you can see this because they mark each bolt individually. Ive had about a year without issue now. I dont think advanced auto carries them anymore.... Personally I would either use good ones from the junkyard OR talk to rusty @ buymparts.biz. Hes got quality rebuilds at $129 a piece.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
The car I took the diff out of was a 1981 240D and had one of each style. I want to get the annular style as it looks as easier to service and not have to remove diff cover.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-23-2010, 11:38 PM #8So I can order axles for a 300D and use them in my 300SD? It looks like they are the same, I have been searching online and cannot seem to find any SD axles, only 300D - I wonder why?
The car I took the diff out of was a 1981 240D and had one of each style. I want to get the annular style as it looks as easier to service and not have to remove diff cover.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
I did find some good information on EPC, the following will work for a 1982 300SD:
- 280S
- 280SE
- 280SEL
- 350SD
- 350SDL
The new replacement axles require a flange for the annular axles and they are all the same part number: A124 357 0289
Off to the Junkyards to do some searching...
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
07-24-2010, 09:51 AM #9After doing some research, it looks like the W123 will not work - maybe length differences?
I did find some good information on EPC, the following will work for a 1982 300SD:
- 280S
- 280SE
- 280SEL
- 350SD
- 350SDL
The new replacement axles require a flange for the annular axles and they are all the same part number: A124 357 0289
Off to the Junkyards to do some searching...
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
(07-24-2010, 09:51 AM)Rudolf_Diesel The new replacement axles require a flange for the annular axles and they are all the same part number: A124 357 0289
Off to the Junkyards to do some searching...
So the inner part of the annular is the same between the 300D and 300SD and its probably just a length difference of the axle shaft itself?
Are there any differences in the hub side between the 300D and 300SD?
Maybe you could order 300D axles, and build a spacer between the flange and axle.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-24-2010, 09:51 AM)Rudolf_Diesel The new replacement axles require a flange for the annular axles and they are all the same part number: A124 357 0289
Off to the Junkyards to do some searching...
So the inner part of the annular is the same between the 300D and 300SD and its probably just a length difference of the axle shaft itself?
Are there any differences in the hub side between the 300D and 300SD?
Maybe you could order 300D axles, and build a spacer between the flange and axle.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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