GT2056V (Jeep Liberty Diesel) Turbo on a 617
GT2056V (Jeep Liberty Diesel) Turbo on a 617
ForcedInduction
11-04-2008, 07:12 PM
#101
Yes, there is a 2mm restrictor inside the flange that bolts onto the turbo.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-04-2008, 09:27 PM #102Does anyone know the spacing for the oil darin bolts? I'm having a fun time measuring down in there...
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
ForcedInduction Yes, there is a 2mm restrictor inside the flange that bolts onto the turbo.
On the stock oil feed line, yes. The GT2056V uses a banjo bolt arrangement to connect the oil feed line, and I'm wondering if there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt hole, or if I need to add a restrictor to my oil feed line.
ForcedInduction Yes, there is a 2mm restrictor inside the flange that bolts onto the turbo.
On the stock oil feed line, yes. The GT2056V uses a banjo bolt arrangement to connect the oil feed line, and I'm wondering if there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt hole, or if I need to add a restrictor to my oil feed line.
Quote:I'm wondering if there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt holeIt was in the turbo itself on mine.
ForcedInduction
11-05-2008, 05:16 PM
#104
Quote:I'm wondering if there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt holeIt was in the turbo itself on mine.
In other news: Can you just mount the vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the turbo?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-05-2008, 11:00 PM #106My GT2056V appears to have a restrictor on the turbo. Inside the banjo bolt's hole there is a smaller hole that appears to be 1mm-2mm-ish
In other news: Can you just mount the vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the turbo?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
bgkast Did your turbo use a banjo bolt for the oil feed?Yes. I made a new oil line from the oil filter housing to the turbo using hydraulic hose.
Simpler=Better Can you just mount the vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the turbo?With a little work, yes. That would make it open the vanes with vacuum and close as vacuum decreases, there would be a built-in way to limit boost.
ForcedInduction
11-06-2008, 04:58 AM
#108
bgkast Did your turbo use a banjo bolt for the oil feed?Yes. I made a new oil line from the oil filter housing to the turbo using hydraulic hose.
Simpler=Better Can you just mount the vacuum actuator on the opposite side of the turbo?With a little work, yes. That would make it open the vanes with vacuum and close as vacuum decreases, there would be a built-in way to limit boost.
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ForcedInduction
12-01-2008, 11:47 AM
#109
I've got my own Liberty Turbo now. We'll see how they compare.
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ForcedInduction
12-04-2008, 04:21 AM
#111
My engine. When I reclocked the vane ring of my VNT I didn't get it perfectly centered and I think its taking out the bearings (it has a lot more side-side shaft movement than I'd like). I won't have to clock this turbo and as a side benefit I can transfer the actuators over to the Holset.
At least the actuator holds vacuum and doesn't have any dead spots, that alone is worth the $50.
I'll do a tear-down, measure it and post some pictures.
ForcedInduction
12-16-2008, 04:17 AM
#112
This turbo is scrap! Its got loads of side play, too much in-out play, the compressor wheel rubs the housing, the actuator bracket is bent and he didn't pack it worth a crap (the post office had to put plastic straps all around the box). :evil:
At least the actuator holds vacuum and doesn't have any dead spots, that alone is worth the $50.
I'll do a tear-down, measure it and post some pictures.
Compressor
Wheel Inducer: 39.55mm
Wheel Exducer: 56mm (49 Trim)
Housing Inlet: 56mm/2.2"
Housing Outlet: 49.75mm/2"
I forgot a 10mm wrench, I'll get turbine pictures and measurements later.
It would be awesome if the the compressor housing will match my 2256. That would make my tubing more efficient and simple.
ForcedInduction
12-16-2008, 04:38 AM
#113
This turbo is tiny even compared to my 2256V, a little too small for my taste.
Compressor
Wheel Inducer: 39.55mm
Wheel Exducer: 56mm (49 Trim)
Housing Inlet: 56mm/2.2"
Housing Outlet: 49.75mm/2"
I forgot a 10mm wrench, I'll get turbine pictures and measurements later.
It would be awesome if the the compressor housing will match my 2256. That would make my tubing more efficient and simple.
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->Sprinter2256.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment][attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->Liberty2056.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
ForcedInduction
12-16-2008, 09:52 AM
#114
Comparison of the Sprinter (GT2256V) and Liberty (GTA2056V) turbines.
[attachment=1]<!-- ia1 -->Sprinter2256.jpg<!-- ia1 -->[/attachment][attachment=0]<!-- ia0 -->Liberty2056.jpg<!-- ia0 -->[/attachment]
Wheel Inducer: 47mm
Wheel Exducer: 42.7mm
The chamber at the outlet of the turbine looks to be nothing more than an expansion chamber. Possibly for muffling.
I can't find measurements for my 2256 turbine.
ForcedInduction
12-18-2008, 06:14 AM
#115
Turbine
Wheel Inducer: 47mm
Wheel Exducer: 42.7mm
The chamber at the outlet of the turbine looks to be nothing more than an expansion chamber. Possibly for muffling.
I can't find measurements for my 2256 turbine.
It needs bearings (rebuilt) and the vane ring cleaned.
ForcedInduction
12-18-2008, 06:37 AM
#116
This turbo is free to anybody willing to cover shipping ($25). Minus the vacuum actuator and compressor housing (I can include the Sprinter housing if I find it fits).
It needs bearings (rebuilt) and the vane ring cleaned.
Wheel Inducer: 40.3mm
Wheel Exducer: 56mm (51.8 Trim)
Housing Inlet: 60mm
Housing Outlet: 35mm
Turbine
Wheel Inducer: 49.4mm (est.)
Wheel Exducer: 41.7mm
This means that while the GT2256V and GTA2256V are both 56mm, they are not the same. The 2256 is a 51.8 trim while the 2056 is a 49 trim. That means the 2256 has a "bigger" compressor wheel. It also looks beefier.
Unfortunately, this turbo is bigger junk than the Liberty turbo! Even more in/out play, frozen vanes, turbine housing frozen to the center housing and the compressor wheel nut wasn't even finger tight!
The stroke of the arm is much longer than the vacuum actuated turbo meaning that converting this to a pneumatic actuator would be difficult. You can also see the oil inlet orifice in this picture.
ForcedInduction
01-15-2009, 06:08 AM
#117
Compressor
Wheel Inducer: 40.3mm
Wheel Exducer: 56mm (51.8 Trim)
Housing Inlet: 60mm
Housing Outlet: 35mm
Turbine
Wheel Inducer: 49.4mm (est.)
Wheel Exducer: 41.7mm
This means that while the GT2256V and GTA2256V are both 56mm, they are not the same. The 2256 is a 51.8 trim while the 2056 is a 49 trim. That means the 2256 has a "bigger" compressor wheel. It also looks beefier.
Unfortunately, this turbo is bigger junk than the Liberty turbo! Even more in/out play, frozen vanes, turbine housing frozen to the center housing and the compressor wheel nut wasn't even finger tight!
The stroke of the arm is much longer than the vacuum actuated turbo meaning that converting this to a pneumatic actuator would be difficult. You can also see the oil inlet orifice in this picture.
Notice anything unusual about the vanes and turbine?
ForcedInduction
02-01-2009, 04:13 AM
#118
WOW! No wonder the vane lever was stuck on this turbo.
Notice anything unusual about the vanes and turbine?
ForcedInduction
03-16-2009, 11:54 PM
#120
Driver abuse. Heat is the only way to cause that kind of damage.
(06-06-2008, 10:53 PM)bgkast My 5 psi (I think) actuator arrived today and it works INFINITELY better!!!! Cruise is now 3-4 psi and it hits 11 psi on acceleration almost as fast as I can press the go pedal. Best of all no more exhaust pressure spike!!! The highest exhaust pressure I hit now is 25 psi vs. 50 or so that I was hitting before :? There is a noticeable loss of power with that kind of pressure at the exhaust manifold. :roll:
I have enough power to do a burn out now and even get sideways when I punch it in second around a corner (it was wet out).
Forced- Yes I do have the spring in the vacuum actuator too. The opposing spring in the vacuum pod widens the operating pressure of the pressure actuator: instead of cracking at 5 psi and being fully actuated at 7 psi it cracks as 5 psi and is fully actuated around 11 psi. That was one of the big problems with the too high pressure actuator and helper spring arrangement, it cracked at 7 psi but did not fully actuate until 16 psi or so, by then there was so much pressure in the exhaust that it had a hard time pushing the vanes open.
Pushing life in an old thread.
I understand you use the stock vac-clock as cruiseactuator and bought a WG actuator from Forged motorsport, bgkast. What model from their productline did you buy? I am looking to buy a similar one.
Is this setup still a success?
(06-06-2008, 10:53 PM)bgkast My 5 psi (I think) actuator arrived today and it works INFINITELY better!!!! Cruise is now 3-4 psi and it hits 11 psi on acceleration almost as fast as I can press the go pedal. Best of all no more exhaust pressure spike!!! The highest exhaust pressure I hit now is 25 psi vs. 50 or so that I was hitting before :? There is a noticeable loss of power with that kind of pressure at the exhaust manifold. :roll:
I have enough power to do a burn out now and even get sideways when I punch it in second around a corner (it was wet out).
Forced- Yes I do have the spring in the vacuum actuator too. The opposing spring in the vacuum pod widens the operating pressure of the pressure actuator: instead of cracking at 5 psi and being fully actuated at 7 psi it cracks as 5 psi and is fully actuated around 11 psi. That was one of the big problems with the too high pressure actuator and helper spring arrangement, it cracked at 7 psi but did not fully actuate until 16 psi or so, by then there was so much pressure in the exhaust that it had a hard time pushing the vanes open.
Pushing life in an old thread.
I understand you use the stock vac-clock as cruiseactuator and bought a WG actuator from Forged motorsport, bgkast. What model from their productline did you buy? I am looking to buy a similar one.
Is this setup still a success?
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