stan's 1980 300TD
stan's 1980 300TD
odometer reading: 184000
here's some photos to show how much bigger and more awesome this is than the stock alternator. and despite the difference in hole spacing, it bolted into the stock bracket without issues, and i was able to fit the regular stock sized belt on and tension it properly.
PROTIP: take teh lower radiator hose out, and the thing slips into place no problem. everyone seems to think you have to worry about clearance with the AC hardline, but if you attach your wiring to the alternator, then slip it into place, its all very easy and plenty of clearance in all areas.
honestly i dont know why anyone would not do this swap, especially when its no more expensive than putting a stock alternator in. you get 115 amps without any janky modifications.
![[Image: IMG_20100911_175757.jpg]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TIxJhcCQlKI/AAAAAAAAAhI/_3hLzg7iTO0/s800/IMG_20100911_175757.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20100911_175812.jpg]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TIxJp0Io-_I/AAAAAAAAAhM/ArpWkuMgC1g/s800/IMG_20100911_175812.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20100911_175826.jpg]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TIxJte4DRuI/AAAAAAAAAhQ/YYlAkuooxho/s800/IMG_20100911_175826.jpg)
woo! bosch AL129X alternator swap is done. busted some knuckles here and there but it was relatively easy. i could walk someone through it in about 40 minutes or less. battery is at kragen charging now, will pick it up later and start the car up! i ran two 10ga wires from the alternator directly to the battery, then one more 10ga to the stock harness hot wire. i made a jumper wire with a ring connector to attach to the blue wire terminal on the alternator, and used spade connectors to wire it into the stock harness. (the hot wire to the stock harness is missing in my photos though)
odometer reading: 184000
here's some photos to show how much bigger and more awesome this is than the stock alternator. and despite the difference in hole spacing, it bolted into the stock bracket without issues, and i was able to fit the regular stock sized belt on and tension it properly.
PROTIP: take teh lower radiator hose out, and the thing slips into place no problem. everyone seems to think you have to worry about clearance with the AC hardline, but if you attach your wiring to the alternator, then slip it into place, its all very easy and plenty of clearance in all areas.
honestly i dont know why anyone would not do this swap, especially when its no more expensive than putting a stock alternator in. you get 115 amps without any janky modifications.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
09-11-2010, 11:49 PM #52What model car did that 115amp come on? looks like a nice mod!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
and can anyone help me with what to do about my shifter problem? i can't think of the right terms to search for on my own. its like the thing moved up, so now i can get into everything EXCEPT PARK. and all the gears are upward of where they should be on the shifter trim. is this an adjustment? a bushing? wtf do i do? right now i'm just putting the car in neutral when i park it, but i'd rather have my gears in the right locations.
side note, it flares really bad, i've been reading up on the k1/k2 spring kits. might have to do that. also my kickdown does not work, and the transmission shifts way too early regardless fo throttle position. i spotted a disconnected cable which might be to blame for the early shifting, but i haven't figure out what to do about the kickdown yet.
project for the day: mounting my new driving lights :-D
and can anyone help me with what to do about my shifter problem? i can't think of the right terms to search for on my own. its like the thing moved up, so now i can get into everything EXCEPT PARK. and all the gears are upward of where they should be on the shifter trim. is this an adjustment? a bushing? wtf do i do? right now i'm just putting the car in neutral when i park it, but i'd rather have my gears in the right locations.
side note, it flares really bad, i've been reading up on the k1/k2 spring kits. might have to do that. also my kickdown does not work, and the transmission shifts way too early regardless fo throttle position. i spotted a disconnected cable which might be to blame for the early shifting, but i haven't figure out what to do about the kickdown yet.
ForcedInduction
09-12-2010, 08:28 PM
#56
Thumb screws are a hell of a lot faster than the factory clamp ends. I'll be using those thumb screw style ends on the first battery of my dual-battery system.
(09-12-2010, 08:28 PM)ForcedInduction my dual-battery system.
are you doing a homebrew setup for that? i have a second battery that i want to put into use and i'm figuring out how to best do that. at this point i'm kinda considering just having a manual switch like we used to have on the lobster boat - battery 1, battery 2, both. or maybe just a switch to connect and disconnect the auxiliary battery.
yeah for the battery side i got some fo those post terminals with wing nuts. cut the clamp off the starter cable and used a splice thing to put a big ring end on it. stacked the two extra 10ga feeds from the alternator on top of that. seems to be working well.
(09-12-2010, 08:28 PM)ForcedInduction my dual-battery system.
are you doing a homebrew setup for that? i have a second battery that i want to put into use and i'm figuring out how to best do that. at this point i'm kinda considering just having a manual switch like we used to have on the lobster boat - battery 1, battery 2, both. or maybe just a switch to connect and disconnect the auxiliary battery.
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Silberpfeil
09-13-2010, 03:18 AM #58Yes Forced, I would also be very interested in what you are planning/end up using for a dual battery system. When I spent time years ago researching these (I used to 4 wheel a lot) the most important and involved aspect is battery management. I'll be curious if you manage the batteries manually or go with some kind of microprocessor control. Some of the double and triple battery systems out 5-10 years ago were pretty amazing. I can only imagine what they might be like now. The 4x4 crowd would be a great place for ideas (as I'm sure you already know).
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
(09-12-2010, 10:51 PM)stan are you doing a homebrew setup for that?Yes. It will be identical to the rear battery system in my 300D, but x2 in parallel.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/batt...t-328.html
I thought about leaving the stock battery in place but decided I might as well have them both back there if I'm going to give up the spare tire. It will also give a weight advantage for traction in snow instead of putting sandbags in the trunk.
Pickups, semis, buses and industrial equipment all use parallel lead-acid batteries with no form of management. I see no reason why I should need it either.
ForcedInduction
09-13-2010, 08:35 AM
#59
(09-12-2010, 10:51 PM)stan are you doing a homebrew setup for that?Yes. It will be identical to the rear battery system in my 300D, but x2 in parallel.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/batt...t-328.html
I thought about leaving the stock battery in place but decided I might as well have them both back there if I'm going to give up the spare tire. It will also give a weight advantage for traction in snow instead of putting sandbags in the trunk.
Pickups, semis, buses and industrial equipment all use parallel lead-acid batteries with no form of management. I see no reason why I should need it either.
![[Image: IMG_20100913_161819.jpg]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TI63aAVC-DI/AAAAAAAAAhg/1FyKdKbcbFU/s800/IMG_20100913_161819.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20100913_191307.jpg]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TI7tRnHfrVI/AAAAAAAAAh4/XxXlZRI3ViE/s800/IMG_20100913_191307.jpg)
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
09-13-2010, 11:20 PM #63I went with the Hella 500 but I have another set to install still! I will have 4 in front of the grill after I finish up my turbo 240 4spd engine swap!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(09-13-2010, 11:20 PM)willbhere4u I went with the Hella 500 but I have another set to install still! I will have 4 in front of the grill after I finish up my turbo 240 4spd engine swap!Hello
Nice car stan
If i mount a bosch AL129X on my om617, would the "w" connection on the alternator give me signal to use with a tachometer?(09-13-2010, 11:20 PM)willbhere4u I went with the Hella 500 but I have another set to install still! I will have 4 in front of the grill after I finish up my turbo 240 4spd engine swap!Hello
Nice car stan
If i mount a bosch AL129X on my om617, would the "w" connection on the alternator give me signal to use with a tachometer?
The bumpers don't fuck around on these cars... they are like .3" thick!
Looks good but I would have mounted them to the rack....
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-14-2010, 11:22 AM #66Looks like your rack is gettin a lil rusty...
The bumpers don't fuck around on these cars... they are like .3" thick!
Looks good but I would have mounted them to the rack....
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
project list update (in order of importance):
-pick up the rear lift springs next week for SLS delete
-get sedan shocks for SLS delete
-make pump blockoff plate for SLS delete
-figure out wtf is up with the shifter, and fix it
-figure out whats up with the transmission flaring - maybe install spring kit?
-pull the whole ac system out. fuck it
-mount new panels in the center console with toggles and LEDs, retain only basic functions (blower on/off, rear defrost on off, etc)
-pull the evil servo, put in ball valves.
-pull the shifter bezel and clean the lens/letters up.
-LED light for the shifter bezel
-finish the LED light for the front dome light
-put replacement passenger seat in
-go to the junkyard to find a replacement ignition switch vacuum shutoff valve so i can stop popping the hood to turn car off
-try and find replacement left tail light lens
-pull fuel level sending unit, clean it
can anyone clue me in on whats up with my shifter? all the gear positions are basically moved up, so park is higher than the shifter can move (with the bezel in place) and all hte gears are slightly higher than they should be.
project list update (in order of importance):
-pick up the rear lift springs next week for SLS delete
-get sedan shocks for SLS delete
-make pump blockoff plate for SLS delete
-figure out wtf is up with the shifter, and fix it
-figure out whats up with the transmission flaring - maybe install spring kit?
-pull the whole ac system out. fuck it
-mount new panels in the center console with toggles and LEDs, retain only basic functions (blower on/off, rear defrost on off, etc)
-pull the evil servo, put in ball valves.
-pull the shifter bezel and clean the lens/letters up.
-LED light for the shifter bezel
-finish the LED light for the front dome light
-put replacement passenger seat in
-go to the junkyard to find a replacement ignition switch vacuum shutoff valve so i can stop popping the hood to turn car off
-try and find replacement left tail light lens
-pull fuel level sending unit, clean it
Did you test the vacuum shutoff valve on the back of the IP for your shutoff problem? I bet you that is more likely the issue than the valve on the ignition, which is pretty simple and less likely to break, that or a leaking rubber boot. Its easy to test, just pull the line off and draw vacuum on it and see if it hold vacuum. If not, it has a hole in it, and the size of the hole can be seen by how long vacuum bleeds down.
On mine, the car would shut off, but 10 seconds after turning the ignition off. I also replaced the switch on the ignition, but it turned out to be a pin hole in the shutoff valve.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
auto shifter bushings for the linkage bar. One bushing at the tranny, and one attachment under the car to the bottom of the shifter. I bet these are rotted or missing causing your problem.
Did you test the vacuum shutoff valve on the back of the IP for your shutoff problem? I bet you that is more likely the issue than the valve on the ignition, which is pretty simple and less likely to break, that or a leaking rubber boot. Its easy to test, just pull the line off and draw vacuum on it and see if it hold vacuum. If not, it has a hole in it, and the size of the hole can be seen by how long vacuum bleeds down.
On mine, the car would shut off, but 10 seconds after turning the ignition off. I also replaced the switch on the ignition, but it turned out to be a pin hole in the shutoff valve.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-15-2010, 11:08 AM)dropnosky auto shifter bushings for the linkage bar. One bushing at the tranny, and one attachment under the car to the bottom of the shifter. I bet these are rotted or missing causing your problem.
how much of a pain are these to replace? does it matter that when i shift it sorta feels like the shifter is clunking into gears? bushing sounds like the issue
(09-15-2010, 11:08 AM)dropnosky Did you test the vacuum shutoff valve on the back of the IP for your shutoff problem? I bet you that is more likely the issue than the valve on the ignition, which is pretty simple and less likely to break, that or a leaking rubber boot. Its easy to test, just pull the line off and draw vacuum on it and see if it hold vacuum. If not, it has a hole in it, and the size of the hole can be seen by how long vacuum bleeds down.
On mine, the car would shut off, but 10 seconds after turning the ignition off. I also replaced the switch on the ignition, but it turned out to be a pin hole in the shutoff valve.
no my car has the reverse issue. i tested this with a vacuum gauge. the ignition side is allowing a bit of vacuum through which is enough to kill the car after revving it, and just enough to make the car idle like shit and randomly die otherwise. my vacuum shutoff on the ip works great! the reason i have to manuall shut the car off right now is that i disconnected the line- i had to in order for the car to run properly.
(09-15-2010, 11:08 AM)dropnosky auto shifter bushings for the linkage bar. One bushing at the tranny, and one attachment under the car to the bottom of the shifter. I bet these are rotted or missing causing your problem.
how much of a pain are these to replace? does it matter that when i shift it sorta feels like the shifter is clunking into gears? bushing sounds like the issue
(09-15-2010, 11:08 AM)dropnosky Did you test the vacuum shutoff valve on the back of the IP for your shutoff problem? I bet you that is more likely the issue than the valve on the ignition, which is pretty simple and less likely to break, that or a leaking rubber boot. Its easy to test, just pull the line off and draw vacuum on it and see if it hold vacuum. If not, it has a hole in it, and the size of the hole can be seen by how long vacuum bleeds down.
On mine, the car would shut off, but 10 seconds after turning the ignition off. I also replaced the switch on the ignition, but it turned out to be a pin hole in the shutoff valve.
no my car has the reverse issue. i tested this with a vacuum gauge. the ignition side is allowing a bit of vacuum through which is enough to kill the car after revving it, and just enough to make the car idle like shit and randomly die otherwise. my vacuum shutoff on the ip works great! the reason i have to manuall shut the car off right now is that i disconnected the line- i had to in order for the car to run properly.
(09-15-2010, 01:43 PM)stan how much of a pain are these to replace? does it matter that when i shift it sorta feels like the shifter is clunking into gears? bushing sounds like the issue
no my car has the reverse issue. i tested this with a vacuum gauge. the ignition side is allowing a bit of vacuum through which is enough to kill the car after revving it, and just enough to make the car idle like shit and randomly die otherwise. my vacuum shutoff on the ip works great! the reason i have to manuall shut the car off right now is that i disconnected the line- i had to in order for the car to run properly.
The bushings are really easy to replace, couple clips holds the bar in place which you might need to replace if they are rusted or something, which I doubt out there in CA. The hardest part will be bending down to get under the car.
That little valve on the ignition is a PITA to replace, but it can be done without removing the ignition or instrument cluster, just additional struggle. Have an interim idea for you, run a direct line from the shut off valve into the car, and connect the other end to a air tight syringe. in the fully depressed position. Then, when you need to shut it off, pull the syringe plunger out to create vacuum on the valve. Might work.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-15-2010, 01:43 PM)stan how much of a pain are these to replace? does it matter that when i shift it sorta feels like the shifter is clunking into gears? bushing sounds like the issue
no my car has the reverse issue. i tested this with a vacuum gauge. the ignition side is allowing a bit of vacuum through which is enough to kill the car after revving it, and just enough to make the car idle like shit and randomly die otherwise. my vacuum shutoff on the ip works great! the reason i have to manuall shut the car off right now is that i disconnected the line- i had to in order for the car to run properly.
The bushings are really easy to replace, couple clips holds the bar in place which you might need to replace if they are rusted or something, which I doubt out there in CA. The hardest part will be bending down to get under the car.
That little valve on the ignition is a PITA to replace, but it can be done without removing the ignition or instrument cluster, just additional struggle. Have an interim idea for you, run a direct line from the shut off valve into the car, and connect the other end to a air tight syringe. in the fully depressed position. Then, when you need to shut it off, pull the syringe plunger out to create vacuum on the valve. Might work.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-15-2010, 01:51 PM)dropnosky Have an interim idea for you, run a direct line from the shut off valve into the car, and connect the other end to a air tight syringe. in the fully depressed position. Then, when you need to shut it off, pull the syringe plunger out to create vacuum on the valve. Might work.
definitely, and i actually had the same idea, and i have a 60mL syringe laying around. i just havent got around to trying it
so for the shifter linkage bushings i'm seeing some specified as for "floor shift mounted models." i don't think that's me, but what models are floor shift mounted?? and if that's not me, then wtf bushings do i use out of the parts listed below?
Febi Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $3.26
Your Price: $2.94
Part Number: W0133-1643678
Notes: Tapered Spool
OES Genuine Shift Lever Bushing
Retail Price: $5.48
Your Price: $4.94
Part Number: W0133-1642114
Notes: At Bellcrank From bellcrank to shifting rod on floor shift mounted models.
Availability
Lemfoerder Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $12.50
Your Price: $8.94
Part Number: W0133-1637822
Notes: On Shift Rod
OES Genuine Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $3.26
Your Price: $2.94
Part Number: W0133-1642923
Notes: Yoke to shift shaft.
Detailed Notes: With floor mounted shifter, yoke to shift shaft. 2 per car.
(09-15-2010, 01:51 PM)dropnosky Have an interim idea for you, run a direct line from the shut off valve into the car, and connect the other end to a air tight syringe. in the fully depressed position. Then, when you need to shut it off, pull the syringe plunger out to create vacuum on the valve. Might work.
definitely, and i actually had the same idea, and i have a 60mL syringe laying around. i just havent got around to trying it
so for the shifter linkage bushings i'm seeing some specified as for "floor shift mounted models." i don't think that's me, but what models are floor shift mounted?? and if that's not me, then wtf bushings do i use out of the parts listed below?
Febi Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $3.26
Your Price: $2.94
Part Number: W0133-1643678
Notes: Tapered Spool
OES Genuine Shift Lever Bushing
Retail Price: $5.48
Your Price: $4.94
Part Number: W0133-1642114
Notes: At Bellcrank From bellcrank to shifting rod on floor shift mounted models.
Availability
Lemfoerder Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $12.50
Your Price: $8.94
Part Number: W0133-1637822
Notes: On Shift Rod
OES Genuine Automatic Transmission Shift Linkage Bushing
Retail Price: $3.26
Your Price: $2.94
Part Number: W0133-1642923
Notes: Yoke to shift shaft.
Detailed Notes: With floor mounted shifter, yoke to shift shaft. 2 per car.
jacked the car up, disconnected the linkage to the SLS valve by the differential, and moved it all the way up. started the engine, ran for a bit. there was a whining noise (very high pitched) coming from the rear suspension...no idea what it was. then shut the car off, took it off jacks. and BAM>
it's sitting high as hell!!!! 28 inches from the ground to the fender lip. 17 inches from the center of the mercedes star on the wheel to the fender lip. its AWESOME. so now i'm thinking maybe this is just a matter of replacing the accumulators and / or rebuilding the SLS valve. going to fiddle iwth it more tomorrow after i can research this some.
WOAH. so the sls delete may not be necessary.
jacked the car up, disconnected the linkage to the SLS valve by the differential, and moved it all the way up. started the engine, ran for a bit. there was a whining noise (very high pitched) coming from the rear suspension...no idea what it was. then shut the car off, took it off jacks. and BAM>
it's sitting high as hell!!!! 28 inches from the ground to the fender lip. 17 inches from the center of the mercedes star on the wheel to the fender lip. its AWESOME. so now i'm thinking maybe this is just a matter of replacing the accumulators and / or rebuilding the SLS valve. going to fiddle iwth it more tomorrow after i can research this some.
-install new SLS accumulators
-replace coolant temperature sender
-replace the 2 glow plugs that have higher impedance than the others (which have almost zero)
-sew some canvas things to hold my tools in an organized way
-get 2 or 3 new tires for my spares (current fronts are nearly bald, but i have 3 spare bundts i can put tires on)
putting in another partsgeek order - getting spare upper/lower rad hoses, and a couple random things that i figure would be likely to blow on the freeway and need replacing.
ordered 2 sets of rebuild rings for teh sls valve. figured why not, only cost $15 for the two sets. will have to rebuild my sls valve but it doesnt appear to be toooo screwed up so that may wait until after this week.
picked up my propigskin sls delete springs with 2.5" extra height. i may try putting them on WITH the sls just to see how it is having super beefy springs with SLS. if anything happens with the SLS i always have the option of going to standard suspension now too.
stock sized alternator belt gave out, ended up trying a few different sizes. so far the one that seems to be working is gates 9403 (stock is 9405, which is larger diameter). right now the car idles around 14.1-14.2V, and i'm having no trouble running the blower, defrost, stereo, low beams, fogs, and hella 700s. its pretty badass i must say.
the front suspension - i think left, has been creeeeeeking like an old bed. i'll have to investigate. the thing definitely needs an alignment too, because the front camber is way off. tops of the wheels farther apart than bottoms - too much positive camber i think.... not sure why. i'm sure that once i get the rear end up to proper ride height, its going to show some alignment issues as well.
need to pull the alternator mounting bracket from blue thunder - mine is bent up from someone before me, and made worse by me monkeying around during my alternator swap.
thats all for now folks.
update: girlfriend moved up to UCSB 2 days ago, and plannign to take a drive up there at the end of hte week. its 150+ miles from home, so i have some prep work to do before leaving.
-install new SLS accumulators
-replace coolant temperature sender
-replace the 2 glow plugs that have higher impedance than the others (which have almost zero)
-sew some canvas things to hold my tools in an organized way
-get 2 or 3 new tires for my spares (current fronts are nearly bald, but i have 3 spare bundts i can put tires on)
putting in another partsgeek order - getting spare upper/lower rad hoses, and a couple random things that i figure would be likely to blow on the freeway and need replacing.
ordered 2 sets of rebuild rings for teh sls valve. figured why not, only cost $15 for the two sets. will have to rebuild my sls valve but it doesnt appear to be toooo screwed up so that may wait until after this week.
picked up my propigskin sls delete springs with 2.5" extra height. i may try putting them on WITH the sls just to see how it is having super beefy springs with SLS. if anything happens with the SLS i always have the option of going to standard suspension now too.
stock sized alternator belt gave out, ended up trying a few different sizes. so far the one that seems to be working is gates 9403 (stock is 9405, which is larger diameter). right now the car idles around 14.1-14.2V, and i'm having no trouble running the blower, defrost, stereo, low beams, fogs, and hella 700s. its pretty badass i must say.
the front suspension - i think left, has been creeeeeeking like an old bed. i'll have to investigate. the thing definitely needs an alignment too, because the front camber is way off. tops of the wheels farther apart than bottoms - too much positive camber i think.... not sure why. i'm sure that once i get the rear end up to proper ride height, its going to show some alignment issues as well.
need to pull the alternator mounting bracket from blue thunder - mine is bent up from someone before me, and made worse by me monkeying around during my alternator swap.
thats all for now folks.
(09-20-2010, 04:11 AM)stan the front suspension - i think left, has been creeeeeeking like an old bed. i'll have to investigate.
This is probably a dry lower ball joint. I had the exact same problem, and extremely loud creak over bumps and turns. The ball joint was still good, and the local old school mechanic around here told me to jam a bunch of axle grease up under the boot, which eliminated the problem for another year.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-20-2010, 04:11 AM)stan the front suspension - i think left, has been creeeeeeking like an old bed. i'll have to investigate.
This is probably a dry lower ball joint. I had the exact same problem, and extremely loud creak over bumps and turns. The ball joint was still good, and the local old school mechanic around here told me to jam a bunch of axle grease up under the boot, which eliminated the problem for another year.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-20-2010, 02:39 PM #77Dunno if your going to find that alternator bracket.... Got a new shiny one on my car!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
used upholstery cleaner on all the seats, and carpet cleaner on the stains in the carpets. everything looking a lot better now. figured out how to fold the seats up and god damn is this thing roomy. i'm a hair over 6' tall, and i can comfortably stretch out in the back without even having to lay at an angle.
parts are supposed to arrive thurs, which sucks but whatever. probably going to pick up some cheap tires tomorrow or thurs as well.
used tire black silicon stuff on the rubber bumper trim, will see if that keeps it looking nice.
removed the old messed up front passenger seat and replaced with one thats in better condition. somewhat faded and you can see the dif in colors between the mbtex and hte leather, but its not cracked / torn so i'm happy.just need to get the rear seat netting tightened up on teh backs of my seats. they hang like sleeve of wizard right now. im thinking some new bungee cord would do the trick.
today/yesterday clay barred the front fenders and hood. sorta helped but not much. also used clay bar on the windshield, which did nothing for the water spots that seem to be permanently ingrained into the glass.
used upholstery cleaner on all the seats, and carpet cleaner on the stains in the carpets. everything looking a lot better now. figured out how to fold the seats up and god damn is this thing roomy. i'm a hair over 6' tall, and i can comfortably stretch out in the back without even having to lay at an angle.
parts are supposed to arrive thurs, which sucks but whatever. probably going to pick up some cheap tires tomorrow or thurs as well.
used tire black silicon stuff on the rubber bumper trim, will see if that keeps it looking nice.
removed the old messed up front passenger seat and replaced with one thats in better condition. somewhat faded and you can see the dif in colors between the mbtex and hte leather, but its not cracked / torn so i'm happy.just need to get the rear seat netting tightened up on teh backs of my seats. they hang like sleeve of wizard right now. im thinking some new bungee cord would do the trick.
(09-22-2010, 05:57 AM)stan they hang like sleeve of wizard right now.
lol, you snuck this right in, and caused me to get coffee on my new shirt. Im sending you a bill
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-22-2010, 05:57 AM)stan they hang like sleeve of wizard right now.
lol, you snuck this right in, and caused me to get coffee on my new shirt. Im sending you a bill
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-22-2010, 09:01 PM #80Haha I laughed too, also at the fact I've seen "the" spelled: the, teh, hte....
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(09-22-2010, 09:01 PM)Captain America Haha I laughed too, also at the fact I've seen "the" spelled: the, teh, hte....
yes it seems at 3:57 am (check the post) after busting knuckles and using clay bar, my typing is not so good.
ok, still working late into the night today, but so far oil change is done with valvoline 15w-40 heavy duty diesel oil. new filter, new o-ring and washers, new oil drain plug. new tires up front (so now the car has new tires all around.
i did the temporary fix for my shutoff issue - ran a vacuum line up through the crack on the corner of the hood, in through the door jam, and up onto the dash. when i need to shut the engine off, i open the door (to un-kink the hose) and suck on the tube. its not awesome but at least i dont have to go pop the hood and hit the stop lever.
tomorrow the plan is to replace both the upper and lower rad hoses, SLS accumulators, all the shifter bushings, the two glow plugs that have high resistance, and a couple of the return lines that look to be slightly leaky. once all that is done, it's off to santa barbara!
odometer reading: 184779
also i got ADD and did this on my wheels
![[Image: IMG_20100922_234955.jpg]](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KwtmW5ADclE/TJr8eY4gm0I/AAAAAAAAAkg/OM7IlmOEkjI/s800/IMG_20100922_234955.jpg)
i think it looks cool!
(09-22-2010, 09:01 PM)Captain America Haha I laughed too, also at the fact I've seen "the" spelled: the, teh, hte....
yes it seems at 3:57 am (check the post) after busting knuckles and using clay bar, my typing is not so good.
ok, still working late into the night today, but so far oil change is done with valvoline 15w-40 heavy duty diesel oil. new filter, new o-ring and washers, new oil drain plug. new tires up front (so now the car has new tires all around.
i did the temporary fix for my shutoff issue - ran a vacuum line up through the crack on the corner of the hood, in through the door jam, and up onto the dash. when i need to shut the engine off, i open the door (to un-kink the hose) and suck on the tube. its not awesome but at least i dont have to go pop the hood and hit the stop lever.
tomorrow the plan is to replace both the upper and lower rad hoses, SLS accumulators, all the shifter bushings, the two glow plugs that have high resistance, and a couple of the return lines that look to be slightly leaky. once all that is done, it's off to santa barbara!
odometer reading: 184779
also i got ADD and did this on my wheels
i think it looks cool!
while doing accumulators i discovered that the passenger side axle feels like it has some play in it, where the drivers' side does not. i've also noticed some clunking back there every now and then but cant find a way to replicate it.
leaking coolant, not sure where as i just replaced both upper and lower rad hoses. somewhere around the rad though, as its dripping off the part of the body that goes under the rad. its slow enough that i can drive ~150 miles before temp starts to go up above normal.
made the trip to santa barbara with no problems. 155 miles to get there, 100-130 miles while there, 155 miles back. with the accumulators the car rides SO smooth especially on the freeway.
while doing accumulators i discovered that the passenger side axle feels like it has some play in it, where the drivers' side does not. i've also noticed some clunking back there every now and then but cant find a way to replicate it.
leaking coolant, not sure where as i just replaced both upper and lower rad hoses. somewhere around the rad though, as its dripping off the part of the body that goes under the rad. its slow enough that i can drive ~150 miles before temp starts to go up above normal.
(09-28-2010, 09:35 PM)dropnosky what kind of noise did the rack make up there during that drive?
NONE! it was actually quite shocking. i guess the road and engine noise is loud enough to cover any rack noise. i had a pile of lumber, a large cargo box, and a spare tire on the rack all strapped down with tie-downs, and i didnt even notice a sound from any of it at 75mph on an empty freeway at night.
on a related note, does anyone know the fuel capacity of a 1980 300TD?
(09-28-2010, 09:35 PM)dropnosky what kind of noise did the rack make up there during that drive?
NONE! it was actually quite shocking. i guess the road and engine noise is loud enough to cover any rack noise. i had a pile of lumber, a large cargo box, and a spare tire on the rack all strapped down with tie-downs, and i didnt even notice a sound from any of it at 75mph on an empty freeway at night.
on a related note, does anyone know the fuel capacity of a 1980 300TD?
Call the dealer, they can look it up for you. The D is roughly 21 gallons
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-29-2010, 09:45 AM #85You should know it.... you have one
Call the dealer, they can look it up for you. The D is roughly 21 gallons
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/my-8...-1843.html
to keep things organized, i've started a separate thread in the engine section for my engine swap project.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/my-8...-1843.html
do i buy a new replacement or get oen from the junkyard? what's the easiest way to do the r&r on these? my daily driver is officially dead right now and it SUCKS
edit: have kragen bringing in a rebuilt half shaft, should have it later on today. $125 and it has a lifetime warranty, which beats the junkyard right now ($56 with 30 day warranty, and i'd still have to find a way to get to the junkyard with my car being dead).
holy crap i snapped a half shaft.....or rather the inner CV joint on one. no idea how.
do i buy a new replacement or get oen from the junkyard? what's the easiest way to do the r&r on these? my daily driver is officially dead right now and it SUCKS
edit: have kragen bringing in a rebuilt half shaft, should have it later on today. $125 and it has a lifetime warranty, which beats the junkyard right now ($56 with 30 day warranty, and i'd still have to find a way to get to the junkyard with my car being dead).
(10-26-2010, 01:44 PM)stan holy crap i snapped a half shaft.....or rather the inner CV joint on one. no idea how.
do i buy a new replacement or get oen from the junkyard? what's the easiest way to do the r&r on these? my daily driver is officially dead right now and it SUCKS
If you have the time and not the cash, grab a decent junkyard one, thats where id start personally, checking the yards for decent axles. If you have the cash, you can get a nice reman or new. I don't know if you have Oreilleys out there, but a couple years ago, I bought a brand new axle that was in stock down the street from me for 140 bucks! Was a stroke of luck
Fairly simple R+R, some grunt work though.
Two types, Ive only had to replace the PITA type, which requires you to pull the cover off the diff, and snap a little spring clip out of the end of the axle right next to the spider gears.
On the outside theres a bolt holding the splined end of the axle in the hub. Once you remove that, you can take a brass drift and knock the axle end out of the hub. Once the clip is out of the diff, it should just pull out on that side.
Some finageling will have to take place to get it out of both and loose. I once heated one up so bad that it welded to itself, and i had to cut the shaft in half. Better if you have the suspension extended, the height gives you more room to pull the axle out. As compared to holding the weight of the car on the subframe while you do this.
The easier one has a flange exterior of the diff that you can simply unbolt. One type is called annular, the other Homokinetic, but I can never remember whats what. Someone will have to correct me.
I have read several accounts where people have recommended replacing the spring clip and outside bolt and washer with new. makes sense, I ended up not doing that though and it was fine until the next axle blew.
This is when I first got a yard axle, and it lasted about 10 months, then I had to replace it with a new one. Good thing about a yard axle is if you can find one with a good condition boot, you will save a shitload of money. the one I bought was cracked, but worked for the situation I found myself in, which was stranded. It was 15 bucks vs hundreds, was still worth it for 10 months of service.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-26-2010, 01:44 PM)stan holy crap i snapped a half shaft.....or rather the inner CV joint on one. no idea how.
do i buy a new replacement or get oen from the junkyard? what's the easiest way to do the r&r on these? my daily driver is officially dead right now and it SUCKS
If you have the time and not the cash, grab a decent junkyard one, thats where id start personally, checking the yards for decent axles. If you have the cash, you can get a nice reman or new. I don't know if you have Oreilleys out there, but a couple years ago, I bought a brand new axle that was in stock down the street from me for 140 bucks! Was a stroke of luck
Fairly simple R+R, some grunt work though.
Two types, Ive only had to replace the PITA type, which requires you to pull the cover off the diff, and snap a little spring clip out of the end of the axle right next to the spider gears.
On the outside theres a bolt holding the splined end of the axle in the hub. Once you remove that, you can take a brass drift and knock the axle end out of the hub. Once the clip is out of the diff, it should just pull out on that side.
Some finageling will have to take place to get it out of both and loose. I once heated one up so bad that it welded to itself, and i had to cut the shaft in half. Better if you have the suspension extended, the height gives you more room to pull the axle out. As compared to holding the weight of the car on the subframe while you do this.
The easier one has a flange exterior of the diff that you can simply unbolt. One type is called annular, the other Homokinetic, but I can never remember whats what. Someone will have to correct me.
I have read several accounts where people have recommended replacing the spring clip and outside bolt and washer with new. makes sense, I ended up not doing that though and it was fine until the next axle blew.
This is when I first got a yard axle, and it lasted about 10 months, then I had to replace it with a new one. Good thing about a yard axle is if you can find one with a good condition boot, you will save a shitload of money. the one I bought was cracked, but worked for the situation I found myself in, which was stranded. It was 15 bucks vs hundreds, was still worth it for 10 months of service.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
over the weekend driving up to santa barbara as usual, got pulled over for dead running lights. twice. got a fix-it ticket, so my solution is thus: bought 2 universal trailer/truck lights, going to mount them to my bumper. bright lights finally!
using these type:
![[Image: st_6752.jpg]](http://imageserv8.team-logic.com/store-logic/products/5/7175/st_6752.jpg)
going to start trying to work on the half shaft tonight, and splicing into the stock tail light harnesses.
on the agenda as well:
-reinstall all the carpeting and dead pedal now that i got the car dried out from the last rain. seal up any holes i find (and plug the one in the floor and one behind the dead pedal).
-fix the shifter bushings (already have replacements)
-replace the leaky return line (already have a new one, but might need more)
-replace coolant temp sensor (already have new one)
picked up axle from kragen (well, now its been taken over by o'reilly)
over the weekend driving up to santa barbara as usual, got pulled over for dead running lights. twice. got a fix-it ticket, so my solution is thus: bought 2 universal trailer/truck lights, going to mount them to my bumper. bright lights finally!
using these type:
going to start trying to work on the half shaft tonight, and splicing into the stock tail light harnesses.
on the agenda as well:
-reinstall all the carpeting and dead pedal now that i got the car dried out from the last rain. seal up any holes i find (and plug the one in the floor and one behind the dead pedal).
-fix the shifter bushings (already have replacements)
-replace the leaky return line (already have a new one, but might need more)
-replace coolant temp sensor (already have new one)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
whats the problem with your running lights? I like the round light idea, but if you go to all the trouble to wire them in, you might as well also fix the stock running lights. Are these gonna point down off the bumper, next to the revers lights? How are you going to mount them
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-26-2010, 11:53 PM)stan FAIL. i need a 22mm wrench and 14mm hex, i have annular joints which means i have to open the diff up to pull out a clip to do the job. uggghhhhh. looks like i'm taking the bus to the auto parts store tomorrow!
You will need some kind of little hook to pull out the spring clips, a dental hook tool works great, provided the grip of the tool its firmly attached to the shank
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-26-2010, 11:53 PM)stan FAIL. i need a 22mm wrench and 14mm hex, i have annular joints which means i have to open the diff up to pull out a clip to do the job. uggghhhhh. looks like i'm taking the bus to the auto parts store tomorrow!
You will need some kind of little hook to pull out the spring clips, a dental hook tool works great, provided the grip of the tool its firmly attached to the shank
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
10-27-2010, 12:33 PM #94I think those lights would look hideous on a 123! Why would you do that? Your tail lights dont work or they are just too dim?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(10-27-2010, 08:42 AM)winmutt What do you need a 22mm wrench for?
undo the two bolts in the diff bushing so i can lower it down to get to the top bolts on the rear dif cover. i've got annular half shafts, so i have to open the dif up to pull the spring clips out.
ended up having to use a floor jack to break the dif fill and drain plugs.
i'm in computer science (cs 39, C# programming!) right now, but when i get home i'll be resuming where i left off - still have to unbolt the dif bushing, lower it down on floor jack, remove rear cover, pull spring clip ring thing out, etc etc.
the fluid that came out of the dif was the most foul smelling material i've encountered on a car so far, absolutely horrible and pungent. also very sludgy, like thick chocolate sauce. soooo glad that i'm replacing that crap.
(10-27-2010, 08:42 AM)winmutt What do you need a 22mm wrench for?
undo the two bolts in the diff bushing so i can lower it down to get to the top bolts on the rear dif cover. i've got annular half shafts, so i have to open the dif up to pull the spring clips out.
ended up having to use a floor jack to break the dif fill and drain plugs.
i'm in computer science (cs 39, C# programming!) right now, but when i get home i'll be resuming where i left off - still have to unbolt the dif bushing, lower it down on floor jack, remove rear cover, pull spring clip ring thing out, etc etc.
the fluid that came out of the dif was the most foul smelling material i've encountered on a car so far, absolutely horrible and pungent. also very sludgy, like thick chocolate sauce. soooo glad that i'm replacing that crap.
installed passenger side half shaft, has lifetime warranty!
-rewired hella 700FFs so its more mud-proof (romping messed up my connections last time)
-pulled off front bumper and tightened up the hella mounts
-replaced one leaky injector return line (may have to replace others, we shall see)
-replaced SLS high pressure line (got this from my 85 engine)
-wired up the trailer light for a drivers side running light for now (it had to be done, but i am ordering a new set of stock tails too)
-put brighter bulbs in my turn signals so hopefully asshats on the 101 see them now
-degreased, wire brushed, then degreased the diff cover again, painted it with silver wheel paint so its all pretty.
-filled the diff with GL-5 80W-90, marked the date, odo reading, and oil weight with red paint pen. left room for future fills.
odometer is at 186,931. i sure am racking up the miles on this thing it seems.
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
alright so here's what i accomplished today:
installed passenger side half shaft, has lifetime warranty!
-rewired hella 700FFs so its more mud-proof (romping messed up my connections last time)
-pulled off front bumper and tightened up the hella mounts
-replaced one leaky injector return line (may have to replace others, we shall see)
-replaced SLS high pressure line (got this from my 85 engine)
-wired up the trailer light for a drivers side running light for now (it had to be done, but i am ordering a new set of stock tails too)
-put brighter bulbs in my turn signals so hopefully asshats on the 101 see them now
-degreased, wire brushed, then degreased the diff cover again, painted it with silver wheel paint so its all pretty.
-filled the diff with GL-5 80W-90, marked the date, odo reading, and oil weight with red paint pen. left room for future fills.
odometer is at 186,931. i sure am racking up the miles on this thing it seems.
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan alright so here's what i accomplished today:
installed passenger side half shaft, has lifetime warranty!
-rewired hella 700FFs so its more mud-proof (romping messed up my connections last time)
-pulled off front bumper and tightened up the hella mounts
-replaced one leaky injector return line (may have to replace others, we shall see)
-replaced SLS high pressure line (got this from my 85 engine)
-wired up the trailer light for a drivers side running light for now (it had to be done, but i am ordering a new set of stock tails too)
-put brighter bulbs in my turn signals so hopefully asshats on the 101 see them now
-degreased, wire brushed, then degreased the diff cover again, painted it with silver wheel paint so its all pretty.
-filled the diff with GL-5 80W-90, marked the date, odo reading, and oil weight with red paint pen. left room for future fills.
odometer is at 186,931. i sure am racking up the miles on this thing it seems.
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
My tires do the same exact thing.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan alright so here's what i accomplished today:
installed passenger side half shaft, has lifetime warranty!
-rewired hella 700FFs so its more mud-proof (romping messed up my connections last time)
-pulled off front bumper and tightened up the hella mounts
-replaced one leaky injector return line (may have to replace others, we shall see)
-replaced SLS high pressure line (got this from my 85 engine)
-wired up the trailer light for a drivers side running light for now (it had to be done, but i am ordering a new set of stock tails too)
-put brighter bulbs in my turn signals so hopefully asshats on the 101 see them now
-degreased, wire brushed, then degreased the diff cover again, painted it with silver wheel paint so its all pretty.
-filled the diff with GL-5 80W-90, marked the date, odo reading, and oil weight with red paint pen. left room for future fills.
odometer is at 186,931. i sure am racking up the miles on this thing it seems.
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
My tires do the same exact thing.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
YES! Lower control are where it attaches to the car. There is an eccentric bolt adjustment...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
10-29-2010, 09:48 PM #98(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan
one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
YES! Lower control are where it attaches to the car. There is an eccentric bolt adjustment...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
wouldn't the tire sanding in less than a 1000 miles more likely be a toe problem? I don't see how even with absolutely horrible camber it would wear that fast, all the wear would be in one spot, but it would not be super fast wear. For example, if you super overload one of these sedans, you have a major camber alteration, but even then, the tire does not wear down in such speed.
I feel like you have a toe problem if the sanding is so fast. Even if the car tracks straight, you could still have a toe problem, I once worked on a cube truck which was rolling nice and straight, but was cooking the tires twice as fast as the other trucks. Turned out that it was toed in way more than spec, did not create a pull or wander, but it ate the tire up fast.
I would also verify the toe before I messed with the eccentric bolt personally. You can do a toe alignment in the driveway easily as well.
(10-27-2010, 12:33 PM)Captain America I think those lights would look hideous on a 123! Why would you do that? Your tail lights dont work or they are just too dim?
If i were him, my placement of choice for lights like that would be on that Uber-rack he has on there. From half a mile away at night his car will look like a truck of some sort, or an ambulance or something.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-29-2010, 12:06 AM)stan one issue that has become obvious is that my front camber is WAY off. in only a couple thousand miles, its scrubbed most of the outer edge of the front tires off. i'm not sure wtf could cause this....do our cars have camber adjustments that i could have corrected, or am i pretty much going to have to chop my front springs?
wouldn't the tire sanding in less than a 1000 miles more likely be a toe problem? I don't see how even with absolutely horrible camber it would wear that fast, all the wear would be in one spot, but it would not be super fast wear. For example, if you super overload one of these sedans, you have a major camber alteration, but even then, the tire does not wear down in such speed.
I feel like you have a toe problem if the sanding is so fast. Even if the car tracks straight, you could still have a toe problem, I once worked on a cube truck which was rolling nice and straight, but was cooking the tires twice as fast as the other trucks. Turned out that it was toed in way more than spec, did not create a pull or wander, but it ate the tire up fast.
I would also verify the toe before I messed with the eccentric bolt personally. You can do a toe alignment in the driveway easily as well.
(10-27-2010, 12:33 PM)Captain America I think those lights would look hideous on a 123! Why would you do that? Your tail lights dont work or they are just too dim?
If i were him, my placement of choice for lights like that would be on that Uber-rack he has on there. From half a mile away at night his car will look like a truck of some sort, or an ambulance or something.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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