W210/OM606.962 EGR Delete
W210/OM606.962 EGR Delete
10-18-2010, 07:32 PM
#1
Here's the schematic:
![[Image: EGRDefeat.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/EGRDefeat.jpg)
The two components soldered together:
![[Image: P9060087.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9060087.jpg)
Covered in heat shrink tubing:
![[Image: P9060088.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9060088.jpg)
Soldered in place:
![[Image: P9060094.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9060094.jpg)
And some foil to protect the wiring when applying the final heat shrink tubing:
![[Image: P9060095.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9060095.jpg)
That's it!
![[Image: P9060099.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9060099.jpg)
This post was last modified: 10-18-2010, 07:36 PM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
For those who haven't seen this already, I thought I'd post the final generation of the mod that's installed on my car currently:
Here's the schematic:
The two components soldered together:
Covered in heat shrink tubing:
Soldered in place:
And some foil to protect the wiring when applying the final heat shrink tubing:
That's it!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
10-19-2010, 08:38 AM
#2
Excellent pics showing a job well done.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
10-19-2010, 08:38 AM #2Outstanding!
Excellent pics showing a job well done.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
10-19-2010, 09:48 AM
#3
What is the difference between this and the old one? I still have the old one installed and its working fine.
Is there not a mistake on the drawing as it state Diode to Green and resistor to yellow but it seems the other way around on the picture? Again I know nutting about electronics.
Olivier
This is a great post.
What is the difference between this and the old one? I still have the old one installed and its working fine.
Is there not a mistake on the drawing as it state Diode to Green and resistor to yellow but it seems the other way around on the picture? Again I know nutting about electronics.
Olivier
10-19-2010, 09:35 PM
#4
As far as a difference between this and the previous designs, I re-connected the EGR transducer and eliminated one of the resistors. The effect is exactly the same, I just simplified the circuit.
This post was last modified: 10-20-2010, 05:06 AM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Nice catch, Olivier. It is true that the components are reversed from the drawing but in the case of the resistor, it doesn't matter the order. What's important is that the stripe on the diode points to the green/gray wire.
As far as a difference between this and the previous designs, I re-connected the EGR transducer and eliminated one of the resistors. The effect is exactly the same, I just simplified the circuit.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
10-29-2010, 04:56 AM
#7
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Hi Raf. Some version of this might work but the ECU pins and wire colors are probably very specific to this particular engine.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
08-09-2011, 03:35 PM
#9
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Hi, I don't think it will work for the 605/606.960. Only 605/606.962 turbo.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
08-10-2011, 05:07 AM
#11
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
OK, I'm sorry, I thought the .960 was non-turbo. Yes, I believe it should work.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
09-17-2011, 10:16 AM
#12
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
)) I physically blocked erg pipe already as local ecological standards allow even more severe emission wise cars to driveAny recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
This post was last modified: 09-17-2011, 10:17 AM by kotka.
Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg )) I physically blocked erg pipe already as local ecological standards allow even more severe emission wise cars to drive
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
10-24-2011, 06:47 PM
#14
(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
12-10-2011, 10:13 AM
#15
Does the OM606.962 come fitted to the W210 E300? (which I have) EDIT: Im guessing so as your username is E300TSC lol..
And does this allow the removal of the EGR actuaton hardware, as opposed to leaving the electronics in situ and just blocking the EGR flow?
Thanks in advance, Harry.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Hi, please can anybody just clarify before I do this.
Does the OM606.962 come fitted to the W210 E300? (which I have) EDIT: Im guessing so as your username is E300TSC lol..
And does this allow the removal of the EGR actuaton hardware, as opposed to leaving the electronics in situ and just blocking the EGR flow?
Thanks in advance, Harry.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
12-11-2011, 02:46 AM
#16
(12-10-2011, 10:13 AM)Hario Hi, please can anybody just clarify before I do this.Yes, the OM606.962 is the version in the E-class. It is the only version with the MAF in the air filter. Implementing the fix shown above should allow you to completely the EGR h/w. I'd start with pulling the electrical plug on the vacuum modulator for the EGR. It is possible that the engine computer is checking for some minimum current flow through that path.
Does the OM606.962 come fitted to the W210 E300? (which I have) EDIT: Im guessing so as your username is E300TSC lol..
And does this allow the removal of the EGR actuaton hardware, as opposed to leaving the electronics in situ and just blocking the EGR flow?
Thanks in advance, Harry.
I need to implement the fix too, my wife's E300 turbo is pretty crudded up with EGR goo.
(12-10-2011, 10:13 AM)Hario Hi, please can anybody just clarify before I do this.Yes, the OM606.962 is the version in the E-class. It is the only version with the MAF in the air filter. Implementing the fix shown above should allow you to completely the EGR h/w. I'd start with pulling the electrical plug on the vacuum modulator for the EGR. It is possible that the engine computer is checking for some minimum current flow through that path.
Does the OM606.962 come fitted to the W210 E300? (which I have) EDIT: Im guessing so as your username is E300TSC lol..
And does this allow the removal of the EGR actuaton hardware, as opposed to leaving the electronics in situ and just blocking the EGR flow?
Thanks in advance, Harry.
I need to implement the fix too, my wife's E300 turbo is pretty crudded up with EGR goo.
12-11-2011, 03:28 PM
#17
(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
you are right - it is a egr sensor embedded into the erg lift valve, not maf.
I would appreciate you share your ideas how to bypass egr and its parts in the ecu
(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
you are right - it is a egr sensor embedded into the erg lift valve, not maf.
I would appreciate you share your ideas how to bypass egr and its parts in the ecu
g300td
Unregistered
01-11-2012, 03:00 AM
#18
(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
Hi! I'v read the post about egr shut off by wire and i have the same problem on my g-vagen with 606.964 engine .... carsoft reads 1404 error....
I physycally shut off egr, but sometimes system goes to limp mode, i think the problem is in valve and its position sensor....please help me with a scheme for elecric shut off this system....Best regards)))
g300td
01-11-2012, 03:00 AM #18(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
Hi! I'v read the post about egr shut off by wire and i have the same problem on my g-vagen with 606.964 engine .... carsoft reads 1404 error....
I physycally shut off egr, but sometimes system goes to limp mode, i think the problem is in valve and its position sensor....please help me with a scheme for elecric shut off this system....Best regards)))
macker64
Unregistered
09-14-2012, 07:33 AM
#21
In relation to this EGR mod., I presume you leave the vacuum and electrical connections connected??
Is there any danger of damaging the ECU by fitting this resistor/diode mod. across an input and an output of the engine ECU?
Regards,
07-07-2013, 09:15 AM
#23
The motive for the mod was as follows. The car had a slight part throttle hesitation that was very hard to track down. Finally i disconnected the EGR valve and the issue was gone. The spring rate of the EGR valve had degraded after 300,000 + miles and allowed the valve to open to far under the same vacuum conditions allowing to much exhaust flow for the same given vacuum signal.
Duncansport
07-07-2013, 09:15 AM #23Did this on a customers car ( dear god i know a CUSTOMER!! ) The mod has worked flawlessly for over a year.
The motive for the mod was as follows. The car had a slight part throttle hesitation that was very hard to track down. Finally i disconnected the EGR valve and the issue was gone. The spring rate of the EGR valve had degraded after 300,000 + miles and allowed the valve to open to far under the same vacuum conditions allowing to much exhaust flow for the same given vacuum signal.
09-19-2013, 04:39 AM
#24
I have a 1998 E300TD, 606.962, I blocked the vacuum actuator pipe to the egr and I'm happy to leave the egr solenoid in place as its small and does nothing.
So if the maf is the only thing controlling the egr is rather delete that because of the compressor inlet flow restriction of course, over on peach parts there is a tutorial involving a 22k resistor between yellow and blue wires to the maf connector but I tried that and it stopped my turbo spooling (held wastegate open I presume).
But the mod detailed in this thread is only for egr solenoid removal correct?
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Hello I think I have confused myself,
I have a 1998 E300TD, 606.962, I blocked the vacuum actuator pipe to the egr and I'm happy to leave the egr solenoid in place as its small and does nothing.
So if the maf is the only thing controlling the egr is rather delete that because of the compressor inlet flow restriction of course, over on peach parts there is a tutorial involving a 22k resistor between yellow and blue wires to the maf connector but I tried that and it stopped my turbo spooling (held wastegate open I presume).
But the mod detailed in this thread is only for egr solenoid removal correct?
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
09-24-2013, 08:21 PM
#25
However, I miss a verbal explanation of the mod, its rationale, the benefits, etc.
This appears as post number 1. So I asume it is.
Is there a verbal explanation already posted? If so please give me the link. This is a very nice mod and many would like to learn here.
OldBeaver
Very good pictures, good circuit diagram.
However, I miss a verbal explanation of the mod, its rationale, the benefits, etc.
This appears as post number 1. So I asume it is.
Is there a verbal explanation already posted? If so please give me the link. This is a very nice mod and many would like to learn here.
OldBeaver
10-11-2013, 10:54 AM
#26
This modification sends a signal from the egr (when the ecu actuates it) to the maf sensor so the output from the maf to the ecu is modified so the ecu thinks it's egr activation has given a corresponding reduction in flow through the map sensor (as the exhaust gas takes up air space) to verify the egr has operated.
Therefore map sensor can be unplugged.
**just in case anyone (like me) was unsure**
Aha!
Awesome, implementing this tomorrow..
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Ah,
This modification sends a signal from the egr (when the ecu actuates it) to the maf sensor so the output from the maf to the ecu is modified so the ecu thinks it's egr activation has given a corresponding reduction in flow through the map sensor (as the exhaust gas takes up air space) to verify the egr has operated.
Therefore map sensor can be unplugged.
**just in case anyone (like me) was unsure**
Aha!
Awesome, implementing this tomorrow..
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
10-11-2013, 02:50 PM
#27
(10-11-2013, 10:54 AM)Hario Ah,
This modification sends a signal from the egr (when the ecu actuates it) to the maf sensor so the output from the maf to the ecu is modified so the ecu thinks it's egr activation has given a corresponding reduction in flow through the map sensor (as the exhaust gas takes up air space) to verify the egr has operated.
Therefore map sensor can be unplugged.
**just in case anyone (like me) was unsure**
Aha!
Awesome, implementing this tomorrow..
H.
In don't think you can unplug the MAF. That will throw a code for other reasons. What you can do is stop the EGR from operating, either by blocking the port, or putting a BB into the vacuum line, or both.
(10-11-2013, 10:54 AM)Hario Ah,
This modification sends a signal from the egr (when the ecu actuates it) to the maf sensor so the output from the maf to the ecu is modified so the ecu thinks it's egr activation has given a corresponding reduction in flow through the map sensor (as the exhaust gas takes up air space) to verify the egr has operated.
Therefore map sensor can be unplugged.
**just in case anyone (like me) was unsure**
Aha!
Awesome, implementing this tomorrow..
H.
In don't think you can unplug the MAF. That will throw a code for other reasons. What you can do is stop the EGR from operating, either by blocking the port, or putting a BB into the vacuum line, or both.
10-14-2013, 07:15 AM
#28
I think this is what Mantahead did to delete his MAF Sensor no?
H.
This post was last modified: 10-14-2013, 09:01 AM by Hario'.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Interestingly I blocked the egr vac hose months ago and have had no codes, at least no change in engine performance, I havent got STAR to plug in.
I think this is what Mantahead did to delete his MAF Sensor no?
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
09-25-2014, 05:32 AM
#30
Who has done it - could please answer some questions, like:
Is the wiring diagram in this topic the correct one (1st post)?
Have you disconnected the vacuum hose from the solenoid to EGR or have you completely disconnected the solenoid valve?
Greetings from Estonia
canyondrift
09-25-2014, 05:32 AM #30I have the same engine in my W210 (OM606.962) and I would like to get rid of my EGR valve too, just because I think that its not good for the engine.
Who has done it - could please answer some questions, like:
Is the wiring diagram in this topic the correct one (1st post)?
Have you disconnected the vacuum hose from the solenoid to EGR or have you completely disconnected the solenoid valve?
Greetings from Estonia
09-25-2014, 06:37 AM
#31
Then just leave it like that, no need to do anything else.
It seems to me that only the american market cars go into fault if you disable EGR via vacuum hose disconnection.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
DIsconect the vacuum hose first, if nothing happens (limp home mode etc).
Then just leave it like that, no need to do anything else.
It seems to me that only the american market cars go into fault if you disable EGR via vacuum hose disconnection.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
09-25-2014, 11:49 AM
#32
(09-25-2014, 06:37 AM)Hario DIsconect the vacuum hose first, if nothing happens (limp home mode etc).All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.
Then just leave it like that, no need to do anything else.
It seems to me that only the american market cars go into fault if you disable EGR via vacuum hose disconnection.
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
(09-25-2014, 06:37 AM)Hario DIsconect the vacuum hose first, if nothing happens (limp home mode etc).All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.
Then just leave it like that, no need to do anything else.
It seems to me that only the american market cars go into fault if you disable EGR via vacuum hose disconnection.
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
09-25-2014, 02:26 PM
#33
(09-25-2014, 11:49 AM)AlanMcR All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.What do you mean by two monitoring systems?
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
I can only remember that the EGR circuit in my car only has the EGR solenoid valve which electrically opens the vacuum when the ECU tells it.
There is no monitoring device or a sensor inside inlet manifold and even in the EGR valve housing.
It should be an European car, produced in 1997 and transported to estonia from germany.
canyondrift
09-25-2014, 02:26 PM #33(09-25-2014, 11:49 AM)AlanMcR All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.What do you mean by two monitoring systems?
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
I can only remember that the EGR circuit in my car only has the EGR solenoid valve which electrically opens the vacuum when the ECU tells it.
There is no monitoring device or a sensor inside inlet manifold and even in the EGR valve housing.
It should be an European car, produced in 1997 and transported to estonia from germany.
09-25-2014, 05:39 PM
#34
(09-25-2014, 02:26 PM)canyondriftIs there a wire going directly to the EGR? That is the lift sensor. If not, is there a wire going to a sensor at the air filter box? That is the MAF sensor.(09-25-2014, 11:49 AM)AlanMcR All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.What do you mean by two monitoring systems?
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
I can only remember that the EGR circuit in my car only has the EGR solenoid valve which electrically opens the vacuum when the ECU tells it.
There is no monitoring device or a sensor inside inlet manifold and even in the EGR valve housing.
It should be an European car, produced in 1997 and transported to estonia from germany.
(09-25-2014, 02:26 PM)canyondriftIs there a wire going directly to the EGR? That is the lift sensor. If not, is there a wire going to a sensor at the air filter box? That is the MAF sensor.(09-25-2014, 11:49 AM)AlanMcR All OM606 turbos had monitored EGR systems. The USA system looked for a change in intake flow. The Euro system monitored physical EGR valve lift. If you just remove the hose it will soon drop into limp more.What do you mean by two monitoring systems?
First figure out which EGR monitoring system you have. There are different fixes for them.
I can only remember that the EGR circuit in my car only has the EGR solenoid valve which electrically opens the vacuum when the ECU tells it.
There is no monitoring device or a sensor inside inlet manifold and even in the EGR valve housing.
It should be an European car, produced in 1997 and transported to estonia from germany.
09-26-2014, 02:31 AM
#35
However as mentioned I removed the vacuum hose and it didn't go into limp after several months of hard driving, I then installed the above MAF wiring mod just in case it went into limp when I was far from home.
What I'm saying is mine worked fine for some reason, 1998 UK model.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
My euro model E300TD has no physical EGR lift sensor, as per all euro models, it has a MAF sensor to monitor airflow change due to EGR operation.
However as mentioned I removed the vacuum hose and it didn't go into limp after several months of hard driving, I then installed the above MAF wiring mod just in case it went into limp when I was far from home.
What I'm saying is mine worked fine for some reason, 1998 UK model.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
09-30-2014, 07:28 AM
#37
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Completely factory, though I didn't have STAR so I couldn't check if a code had been raised, there was certainly no loos of performance / limp etc. Who knows.. Thats why I'm saying try it, ign/ off/on resets limp so no harm done.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
09-30-2014, 09:17 AM
#38
(09-30-2014, 07:28 AM)Hario Completely factory, though I didn't have STAR so I couldn't check if a code had been raised, there was certainly no loss of performance / limp etc. Who knows.. Thats why I'm saying try it, ign/ off/on resets limp so no harm done.Interesting. My experience is the opposite. I've got both a USA 1998 E300 Turbo and a Euro 1996 G300 Turbo. Both will go into limp if any part of the EGR system fails to respond. On the G300 I've built a circuit that electrically simulates the function of the EGR lift sensor. But it is more complex than what is claimed to work on the USA / MAF based system.
(09-30-2014, 07:28 AM)Hario Completely factory, though I didn't have STAR so I couldn't check if a code had been raised, there was certainly no loss of performance / limp etc. Who knows.. Thats why I'm saying try it, ign/ off/on resets limp so no harm done.Interesting. My experience is the opposite. I've got both a USA 1998 E300 Turbo and a Euro 1996 G300 Turbo. Both will go into limp if any part of the EGR system fails to respond. On the G300 I've built a circuit that electrically simulates the function of the EGR lift sensor. But it is more complex than what is claimed to work on the USA / MAF based system.
10-02-2014, 04:45 PM
#39
It was driving like 50kW, cleaning out MAP sensor line helped, but to have my mind right I would need to know if that WG is normal or it is in limp mode. thx in advance gents.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
As you have been down there, and you own these engines for some time, maybe someone can help me. Question being, is vacuum operated wastegate on OM605 closed at idle? Mine is open (minimum duty cycle at proportional valve), I am new to mercedes, so either they really tought it throught and turbo sits chilling until its needed, or its broken. It was driving like 50kW, cleaning out MAP sensor line helped, but to have my mind right I would need to know if that WG is normal or it is in limp mode. thx in advance gents.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
10-03-2014, 05:03 PM
#40
(10-02-2014, 04:45 PM)starynovy As you have been down there, and you own these engines for some time, maybe someone can help me. Question being, is vacuum operated wastegate on OM605 closed at idle? Mine is open (minimum duty cycle at proportional valve), I am new to mercedes, so either they really tought it throught and turbo sits chilling until its needed, or its broken.
No idea of how the OM605 works, but the OM606 has the wastegate pulled closed at idle. When in limp mode, it lets go of the wastegate at all times (including idle).
(10-02-2014, 04:45 PM)starynovy As you have been down there, and you own these engines for some time, maybe someone can help me. Question being, is vacuum operated wastegate on OM605 closed at idle? Mine is open (minimum duty cycle at proportional valve), I am new to mercedes, so either they really tought it throught and turbo sits chilling until its needed, or its broken.
No idea of how the OM605 works, but the OM606 has the wastegate pulled closed at idle. When in limp mode, it lets go of the wastegate at all times (including idle).
10-04-2014, 08:54 AM
#41
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Well according to that, its is in limp mode for sure. Thanks for reply.. now to harder part of fixing it. That engine is literally stupid when it comes to management, it only have MAP-which is good so I dont know what to look for anymore. Man that standalone ECU can´t wait any longer.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
12-18-2014, 07:53 PM
#42
(10-18-2010, 07:32 PM)E300TSC For those who haven't seen this already, I thought I'd post the final generation of the mod that's installed on my car currently:
Here's the schematic:
The two components soldered together:
Covered in heat shrink tubing:
Soldered in place:
And some foil to protect the wiring when applying the final heat shrink tubing:
That's it!
Can you please explain why this mod is better than EGR delete? Some people say that EGR is even good for performance! What does yr experience says?
Oldbeaver
(10-18-2010, 07:32 PM)E300TSC For those who haven't seen this already, I thought I'd post the final generation of the mod that's installed on my car currently:
Here's the schematic:
The two components soldered together:
Covered in heat shrink tubing:
Soldered in place:
And some foil to protect the wiring when applying the final heat shrink tubing:
That's it!
Can you please explain why this mod is better than EGR delete? Some people say that EGR is even good for performance! What does yr experience says?
Oldbeaver
03-12-2015, 11:53 AM
#45
(12-19-2014, 02:17 AM)Tito EGR good for performance? who told you that? It's to reduce Nox at cruising speed. Redirecting hot non oxygen gasses to the intake is never a good idea
Tito and the forum,
Please, read this and comment:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112612
Greetings
(12-19-2014, 02:17 AM)Tito EGR good for performance? who told you that? It's to reduce Nox at cruising speed. Redirecting hot non oxygen gasses to the intake is never a good idea
Tito and the forum,
Please, read this and comment:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112612
Greetings
03-12-2015, 02:13 PM
#46
How does that article contradict anything that was said above? To summarize: EGR reduces NOx on all engines. However any fuel economy benefits are limited to throttled vehicles (gasoline). The benefits come from reducing the intake manifold vacuum that the engine has to work against by filling the intake manifold with inert combustion gasses.
09-16-2019, 07:13 PM
#47
Insane190d
09-16-2019, 07:13 PM #47Hello can anyone help me I just tried this mod on my 99 e300td USA car because I put an egr delete in. I still have the old egr hooked to the vacuum line. Soldered the resistor and diode in and still get a p1401 code after a bit of driving. The ohm resistor is a 1/4 Watt 470. Did I do something wrong or do I have to cut a wire on the maff?
10-17-2023, 12:46 AM
#48
(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
Hello can you help me with the solution for the 606964 G wagon egr delete
(10-24-2011, 06:47 PM)AlanMcR(09-17-2011, 10:16 AM)kotka Good thread for me - I have P1404 error. It is definitely not a transducer issue - I changed it - no difference.The 606.964 (the version of the 606 in the G-class) doesn't have a MAF. It has an EGR lift sensor. The circuit shown in this thread won't work for that motor. I designed a circuit that removes the lift sensor (and the vacuum modulator) from the ECU, but is isn't very simple. Reply to this thread it you are interested in it.
I connected 5v power pin of the maf plug with com pin of the plug-error changed to p1401 - maf sensor.
Ah-forget to mention that my g-wagon (606.964) goes into limp mode after few minutes. So I try to make ecu live without maf and erg
Any recommendations? My maf plug is 3 pin one-power, "-" and com pins
Hello can you help me with the solution for the 606964 G wagon egr delete
03-18-2024, 12:06 PM
#49
I have done the the 470Ω + 1N4004 diode mod and I have also deleted MAF by soldering 22kΩ resistor between blue and yellow MAF wires as shown in a Peachparts forum post. This forum doesn't seem to allow URLs in posts so I can't link the MAF delete instructions here.
I have also blocked the EGR control valve vacuum lines.
The question is is that do the vacuum lines need to be blocked or is it completely unnecessary to block them if the resistor + diode mod is in place?
I am trying to troubleshoot the brake booster issue I am having by connecting every vacuum line as they were originally, but would this cause the EGR to be back in operation? Or even worse, EGR locked to open position as I have the ECU fooling resistor/diode mods in place?
I am dealing with a problem that is having poor braking power sometimes in my W210, so assumption would be the brake booster is not boosting, which is vacuum operated.
I have done the the 470Ω + 1N4004 diode mod and I have also deleted MAF by soldering 22kΩ resistor between blue and yellow MAF wires as shown in a Peachparts forum post. This forum doesn't seem to allow URLs in posts so I can't link the MAF delete instructions here.
I have also blocked the EGR control valve vacuum lines.
The question is is that do the vacuum lines need to be blocked or is it completely unnecessary to block them if the resistor + diode mod is in place?
I am trying to troubleshoot the brake booster issue I am having by connecting every vacuum line as they were originally, but would this cause the EGR to be back in operation? Or even worse, EGR locked to open position as I have the ECU fooling resistor/diode mods in place?
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