Webasto
Webasto
My mercedes 1987' 300GD (617 diesel) came from Germany with Webasto unit ,this is older diesel webasto, it does heat coolant. Control unit from cabin seems to be working ok and gets webasto to start but does not fire(can hear some buzzing noise coming from heater for a minute then dies out) .I tried to search for any info but no luck.Has anyone have suggestions what could be a problem and if is worth to try to fix it?
Thank you J
Hi everyone,
My mercedes 1987' 300GD (617 diesel) came from Germany with Webasto unit ,this is older diesel webasto, it does heat coolant. Control unit from cabin seems to be working ok and gets webasto to start but does not fire(can hear some buzzing noise coming from heater for a minute then dies out) .I tried to search for any info but no luck.Has anyone have suggestions what could be a problem and if is worth to try to fix it?
Thank you J
Graminal95
10-21-2010, 03:18 PM #2Its a great unit to have, definitely keep it. I have a Ardic unit and its wonderful on cold nights (>0F) in the middle of no where. I think Webasto use a glow plug to fire off the diesel, so check to see if thats working. Also look into the fuel pump to make sure fuel is getting to the burner. I bet if you look around you will be able to find a manual for it, it might be in German or Swedish though.
(10-21-2010, 11:08 AM)300GD Control unit from cabin seems to be working ok and gets webasto to start but does not fire(can hear some buzzing noise coming from heater for a minute then dies out).
Thats the blower/pump motor.
Does it smoke at all? Could just be a clogged fuel filter or nozzle.
What model is it?
ForcedInduction
10-21-2010, 06:57 PM
#3
(10-21-2010, 11:08 AM)300GD Control unit from cabin seems to be working ok and gets webasto to start but does not fire(can hear some buzzing noise coming from heater for a minute then dies out).
Thats the blower/pump motor.
Does it smoke at all? Could just be a clogged fuel filter or nozzle.
What model is it?
Thanks for all suggestions .Now when i have it out will clean and test everything ,diesel fuel supply,glow plug ...will see what can be checked .Will see maybe something obvious ....
I just pull it out .Its Model DBW 46 .No was not smoking at all just like you say blower motor and thats it no start of burning.
Thanks for all suggestions .Now when i have it out will clean and test everything ,diesel fuel supply,glow plug ...will see what can be checked .Will see maybe something obvious ....
hope you can solve it.
Tom
I took apart and clean whole unit and as far as i could check all is good.Glow plus woks good after conecting to 12V. I think my problem is with dosing pomp right by the fuel tank or rather fuel is not being delivered to burner.This is external dosing pomp. It checks ok shoots diesel everytime when 12v conected .Is dosing so only shoots ones per conection i think thats how this suppose to work. Well will make sure all line are not clogged and i putting it back together. Inside combustion chamber there is like piece of cardboard allike material just before glow plug this is burned bit and has whole in center .Thats place where fuel is being injected .Im not sure if this is normal or need repalcing
Tom, thanks again for pdf manual . Jack
Tom,Thank you so much for this manual in english. It will help a lot.
I took apart and clean whole unit and as far as i could check all is good.Glow plus woks good after conecting to 12V. I think my problem is with dosing pomp right by the fuel tank or rather fuel is not being delivered to burner.This is external dosing pomp. It checks ok shoots diesel everytime when 12v conected .Is dosing so only shoots ones per conection i think thats how this suppose to work. Well will make sure all line are not clogged and i putting it back together. Inside combustion chamber there is like piece of cardboard allike material just before glow plug this is burned bit and has whole in center .Thats place where fuel is being injected .Im not sure if this is normal or need repalcing
Tom, thanks again for pdf manual . Jack
This is where the difference is between diesel and petrol webastos of the type 46. Exchanging the one with the hole with one without hole makes a diesel to a petrol.
Does your pump get the electrical signal after the blower ran for a while?
Give the pulses manually after letting the blower run for approx 20 sec and see if it starts to burn.
It is normal that the cardboard looks "used", that's o.k. as long as there is no carbon black deformation.
The thing is not expensive anyway.
Tom
the cardboard alike material with the hole is the "evaporator".
This is where the difference is between diesel and petrol webastos of the type 46. Exchanging the one with the hole with one without hole makes a diesel to a petrol.
Does your pump get the electrical signal after the blower ran for a while?
Give the pulses manually after letting the blower run for approx 20 sec and see if it starts to burn.
It is normal that the cardboard looks "used", that's o.k. as long as there is no carbon black deformation.
The thing is not expensive anyway.
Tom
I own the Vixen Motorcoach CO. (www.vixerv.com)
The Vixen 21 uses the Webasto DB 46. I can help with tech info and parts if needed.
Regards
Greg
I'm new here.
I own the Vixen Motorcoach CO. (www.vixerv.com)
The Vixen 21 uses the Webasto DB 46. I can help with tech info and parts if needed.
Regards
Greg
(10-23-2010, 12:52 AM)tomnik sell him the part:
Guys youre worth millions of dollars
I spent whole day yesterday to trouble shoot my webasto and wiring .
Regarding this evaporater ,thanks Tom for explaining what it is and how it works .Mine look bit worst then one on picture is just black completely .
I also took out and clean external dosing pump . Housing is badly rusted but all plastic and rubber components are ok and after connecting to 12v it shoots fuel pretty strong every time I connected to power source 12V. Checked also fuel hose going to Webasto ,this is also solid no problems here. After I put pump back I connected 12V couple of time to see if pomp is working and sure enough I see fuel injected on other side of the hose so its working . After I put everything together and put webasto in and connected everything I tried to start .Again buzzing noise for a minute and no fire . I disconnected fuel line .Sure… no fuel is being delivered so I know my problem no fuel delivery. I also unplug wires going to external pump from “brain unit” and connect power 12V directly there and here I see fuel flowing so I know “brain computer”is not sending power to external fuel pomp.I read in manual that in this happens temp fuse/limiter is at foult.My has just small aluminium screw in fuse in back of webasto unit. Where can I buy it and how expensive it is ? Thanks aging guys for all help you giving me. I spent 2 days trying to get it work so I really now want to get it work after all this cleaning have done .
Jack
PS my webasto tube air intake filter media was very old and faling apart so i clean it out from tube and replaced with white filter media hope this is ok to use
Greg, will you have part i need? Good to know i could still get parts for this webasto i thought this is very old unit .Thanks
(10-23-2010, 12:52 AM)tomnik sell him the part:
Guys youre worth millions of dollars
I spent whole day yesterday to trouble shoot my webasto and wiring .
Regarding this evaporater ,thanks Tom for explaining what it is and how it works .Mine look bit worst then one on picture is just black completely .
I also took out and clean external dosing pump . Housing is badly rusted but all plastic and rubber components are ok and after connecting to 12v it shoots fuel pretty strong every time I connected to power source 12V. Checked also fuel hose going to Webasto ,this is also solid no problems here. After I put pump back I connected 12V couple of time to see if pomp is working and sure enough I see fuel injected on other side of the hose so its working . After I put everything together and put webasto in and connected everything I tried to start .Again buzzing noise for a minute and no fire . I disconnected fuel line .Sure… no fuel is being delivered so I know my problem no fuel delivery. I also unplug wires going to external pump from “brain unit” and connect power 12V directly there and here I see fuel flowing so I know “brain computer”is not sending power to external fuel pomp.I read in manual that in this happens temp fuse/limiter is at foult.My has just small aluminium screw in fuse in back of webasto unit. Where can I buy it and how expensive it is ? Thanks aging guys for all help you giving me. I spent 2 days trying to get it work so I really now want to get it work after all this cleaning have done .
Jack
PS my webasto tube air intake filter media was very old and faling apart so i clean it out from tube and replaced with white filter media hope this is ok to use
Greg, will you have part i need? Good to know i could still get parts for this webasto i thought this is very old unit .Thanks
That cone on your intake is just a muffler.
ForcedInduction
10-23-2010, 10:06 AM
#11
Webastos don't really need an air filter, but it helps. You should see how dirty the webastos and proheats get on these buses and they still burn clean.
That cone on your intake is just a muffler.
when the unit tries to start, can you hear the pump operate?
I understood no cause no power from the brain. But no single tick-tick?
The trouble shooting tells more about the other conditions (flame check,..).
If the blower starts it's at least a good indication that the control unit is not dead. In case the pump works for some shots but then quits it's the flame check. The unit recognises that it did not start burning and stops.
In that case the cardboard thing is the issue (or the glow plug).
The cardboard thing is collecting the fuel where it evaporates/drop off due to the blower's flow.
Read in the manual.
Tom
Jack,
when the unit tries to start, can you hear the pump operate?
I understood no cause no power from the brain. But no single tick-tick?
The trouble shooting tells more about the other conditions (flame check,..).
If the blower starts it's at least a good indication that the control unit is not dead. In case the pump works for some shots but then quits it's the flame check. The unit recognises that it did not start burning and stops.
In that case the cardboard thing is the issue (or the glow plug).
The cardboard thing is collecting the fuel where it evaporates/drop off due to the blower's flow.
Read in the manual.
Tom
When i press "flame" button I hear buzzing im not sure is this blower motor or pump ,actually when I tested webasto after cleaning/checking I connected everything electrical and for test I pour water in webasto hoses so I think if this buzzing would be water pump this would shoot water but did not so must be blower fan to start burning cycle. Blower is running for aprox 1 minute time and then dies .Nothing else is happening. No smoke… no clicking…and I disconnect fuel line to webasto and there is no fuel coming at all. I know dosing pump does not get power to start cycling. I tested dose pump by connecting power to 2 wires going to dose pump and is shooting fuel so I know pump is ok just don’t get 12V from brain . I tested temp fuse/limiter ( I have fuse type sensor ) with multimeter and there is continuity so must be good .That’s strange all looks good and tests ok but no fire .I really wanted to get it to work just don’t know what else to check .Is there possibility that brain is broken or maybe there is like relay to make dose pump cycle just don’t know. First I have to see fuel going to webasto then when still not start will look for more but for now I wanted to get fuel pump to work.Apprecie all help I can get .Maybe I can buy just "brain" it this is a problem…just wish there would be way to check. When i had forn cover off i conected 12V to glow plug and is glowing very strong...
Thank you again J
Tom ,thanks for your input ,i was hoping for your help.
When i press "flame" button I hear buzzing im not sure is this blower motor or pump ,actually when I tested webasto after cleaning/checking I connected everything electrical and for test I pour water in webasto hoses so I think if this buzzing would be water pump this would shoot water but did not so must be blower fan to start burning cycle. Blower is running for aprox 1 minute time and then dies .Nothing else is happening. No smoke… no clicking…and I disconnect fuel line to webasto and there is no fuel coming at all. I know dosing pump does not get power to start cycling. I tested dose pump by connecting power to 2 wires going to dose pump and is shooting fuel so I know pump is ok just don’t get 12V from brain . I tested temp fuse/limiter ( I have fuse type sensor ) with multimeter and there is continuity so must be good .That’s strange all looks good and tests ok but no fire .I really wanted to get it to work just don’t know what else to check .Is there possibility that brain is broken or maybe there is like relay to make dose pump cycle just don’t know. First I have to see fuel going to webasto then when still not start will look for more but for now I wanted to get fuel pump to work.Apprecie all help I can get .Maybe I can buy just "brain" it this is a problem…just wish there would be way to check. When i had forn cover off i conected 12V to glow plug and is glowing very strong...
Thank you again J
put everything together but leave the pump unplugged to the cable from the brain. Then start the flame button. After some 10-20 sec. apply pulses from a 12 source directly to the pump and see if it starts.
If so then you know that it is working basically and that you have an issue with the brain providing the pump pulses.
Listen to the burning noise don't pulse too much to avoid overheating (once a second or less until it burns well then give more pulses).
It is common that the brain is broken this is the reason why I have many "complete" units but only few working brains.
Someone should build these units with today's components, can't be too hard and should sell easily as the heater itself is bulletproof and/or easy to repair.
Tom
o.k. do the following test:
put everything together but leave the pump unplugged to the cable from the brain. Then start the flame button. After some 10-20 sec. apply pulses from a 12 source directly to the pump and see if it starts.
If so then you know that it is working basically and that you have an issue with the brain providing the pump pulses.
Listen to the burning noise don't pulse too much to avoid overheating (once a second or less until it burns well then give more pulses).
It is common that the brain is broken this is the reason why I have many "complete" units but only few working brains.
Someone should build these units with today's components, can't be too hard and should sell easily as the heater itself is bulletproof and/or easy to repair.
Tom
Im sure wont find one here in North America if yes there will be big $$$$ .I found i used one on ebay.de but dont read German and dont know if seller guarantees woking condition of unit.
So i see Tom you know already whats going on wrong with those heaters.Its too bad that this unit is also like you say hard to find in Germany. Thanks again for all help.
Tom,you are right on the money. After reading manual was looking for relay K2 .Could not find it outside so have to be inside a brain. So i unpluged brain and open it ( this is sealed unit non repairable) just to make sure if this is what is cousing problem .Sure enough there are few relays inside brain and one responsible for cycling dose pomp is all rusted and seized .In factory they did not seal all cables going to engine bay from pasengers compartment and water was geting inside right on webasto brain unit ;( problem solved i mean at least i know what to look for to get my webasto working again .I need new Webasto diesel brain SG 1560/12V 105.499.
Im sure wont find one here in North America if yes there will be big $$$$ .I found i used one on ebay.de but dont read German and dont know if seller guarantees woking condition of unit.
So i see Tom you know already whats going on wrong with those heaters.Its too bad that this unit is also like you say hard to find in Germany. Thanks again for all help.
![[Image: d6605222-1.jpg]](http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i311/c32wagon/d6605222-1.jpg)
(10-24-2010, 11:41 AM)Euroamg While on the webasto topic. Is it easy to fit on a car? I have a source for one that i would like to put in.I would think wiring would be as hard as instaling alarm system then comes taping to cars fuel line or tank directly and runnig fuel line to heater and then most important part installing unit under hood in SAFE location and properly instaling exgoust pipe with muffler; heater has to be installed (at least my older webasto ) lower then engine block becouse of heater coolant pump reqirement.Mine system was factory installed as far as i can see comes with all cables/wiring harneses.
(10-24-2010, 11:41 AM)Euroamg While on the webasto topic. Is it easy to fit on a car? I have a source for one that i would like to put in.I would think wiring would be as hard as instaling alarm system then comes taping to cars fuel line or tank directly and runnig fuel line to heater and then most important part installing unit under hood in SAFE location and properly instaling exgoust pipe with muffler; heater has to be installed (at least my older webasto ) lower then engine block becouse of heater coolant pump reqirement.Mine system was factory installed as far as i can see comes with all cables/wiring harneses.
ForcedInduction
10-24-2010, 03:03 PM
#18
Relocate the battery to the trunk and you'll have a nice large area to install one.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
If it's just a relay it can likely be replaced easily for less than the price of a new control. Look for a tv repair shop or similar, or someone who does electronics stuff on the side and get their opinion.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
There is no fule supply and no power going on glow plug.Pulsing pump and glow plug checks ok if connected to 12V . Also no interior blower motor is working automaticaly when webasto "flame"button is activated.
Now after i checked everything and is working how important is control display programing unit inside a car. Mine does not show clock all times only when i press clock button. How imprtant is this programing unit ? running out of ideas!
i tried 2 different (1 new) brain units and doing same thing .Just blower motor running for a minute then dies.
There is no fule supply and no power going on glow plug.Pulsing pump and glow plug checks ok if connected to 12V . Also no interior blower motor is working automaticaly when webasto "flame"button is activated.
Now after i checked everything and is working how important is control display programing unit inside a car. Mine does not show clock all times only when i press clock button. How imprtant is this programing unit ? running out of ideas!
![[Image: 109995.jpg]](http://www.butlertechnik.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/179x179/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/s/s/109995.jpg)
http://www.butlertechnik.com/catalog/pro...tegory/29/
All you need is a SPST lighted switch that has a separate + circuit for the light, or a normal switch and external light.
ForcedInduction
11-06-2010, 05:40 PM
#21
The clock isn't needed. Webasto makes a lighted switch retrofit that plugs in place of it.
http://www.butlertechnik.com/catalog/pro...tegory/29/
All you need is a SPST lighted switch that has a separate + circuit for the light, or a normal switch and external light.
I checked diagram; water pomp starts circulate coolant as soon as webasto cycle starts,my does not, is seized .I took it apart and clean it but is dead .Now i know need good pump or at least motor for this pomp BOSH APG 12V 0 130 002 093 (WEBASTO DWB 46 diesel )
TOMNIK would you have one and be willing to ship ,i will pay .
J
After checking each component for continuity or if works/glow after connected to 12V all is OK except for my water pump (wasserpompe).Water pump is faulty .After connecting to power does not work .
I checked diagram; water pomp starts circulate coolant as soon as webasto cycle starts,my does not, is seized .I took it apart and clean it but is dead .Now i know need good pump or at least motor for this pomp BOSH APG 12V 0 130 002 093 (WEBASTO DWB 46 diesel )
TOMNIK would you have one and be willing to ship ,i will pay .
J
ForcedInduction
11-11-2010, 06:54 AM
#24
Should just be a normal circulation pump as used on all the sedans.
PS Tomnik thank you for your suggestion
ForcedInduction ,yes youre right.I got one of those and just swaped top cap part of pump becouse angle of outlet pipe for webasto is different then regular AUX pump everything else is same. Now im ready to test whole system again ..lets see
PS Tomnik thank you for your suggestion
Problem is after switching on my vent fan and water pump start right away .and have no power coming from brain to glow plug.As per diagram at start only glow plug and water pump should start .Then after few seconds fan and fuel pump.Checked pins in plugs they are under correct numbers correct by numbers . Interesting thing if check power at glow plug after pressing start button on voltmeter shows 11.6V but if I connect to plug 12V light probe there is no light .So by voltmeter there is power but connecting small resistor like probe bulb ,does not work not to mention current drawing glow plug. Running out of ideas
No luck ! checked connecting directly 12V to fuel pomp,water pomp,vent fan and glow plug they all good. Checked resistance in different temp ,temp sensor also checks ok. Temp fuse sensor has continuity and flame sensor too. Tried 3 different brain units ,checked visually wiring and fuses .Checked relay ,after connecting 12V works fine.
Problem is after switching on my vent fan and water pump start right away .and have no power coming from brain to glow plug.As per diagram at start only glow plug and water pump should start .Then after few seconds fan and fuel pump.Checked pins in plugs they are under correct numbers correct by numbers . Interesting thing if check power at glow plug after pressing start button on voltmeter shows 11.6V but if I connect to plug 12V light probe there is no light .So by voltmeter there is power but connecting small resistor like probe bulb ,does not work not to mention current drawing glow plug. Running out of ideas
- 13.6 volts on battery,
- air intake clear
- new fuel, bled,
- new temp limiter
- new burner and felt and gasket
- cleaned flame sensor, checked o-ring
- cleaned combustion chamber
- coolant circulation pump starts at turn on
- glow plug preheats 1st 30 seconds
- combustion fan starts at 30 sec
--everything turns off at 90 seconds.
-- exhaust is NOT hot, no smoke NADA!
- disconnected battery between tests
Brother, this is the million dollar question - Did you ever figure it out? I have a DBW46 with the same issues. I've done the same troubleshooting steps and still haven't resolved the issue. Everything on it's own seems within tolerances but the unit turns off after 90 seconds. Seems the ECU never activates the fuel pump. I've applied 12volts directly to the uninstalled glow plug and it lights up just fine. I've pinned a low volt bulb in the glow plug line and it preheats 30 seconds. I've even tried applying 12 volts to fuel pump at 20 seconds pulsing it just to see if it will fire up and it still doesn't fire! Anybody know the Webasto secret to get this thing working? I don't have access to other control units but it sounds like that didn't even resolve the posters issue. I can't afford to replace parts and not have a working unit. Thanks for any insights folks.
- 13.6 volts on battery,
- air intake clear
- new fuel, bled,
- new temp limiter
- new burner and felt and gasket
- cleaned flame sensor, checked o-ring
- cleaned combustion chamber
- coolant circulation pump starts at turn on
- glow plug preheats 1st 30 seconds
- combustion fan starts at 30 sec
--everything turns off at 90 seconds.
-- exhaust is NOT hot, no smoke NADA!
- disconnected battery between tests
If the fuelline is empty it can take 15 minute to get fuel.
I have some documentation for you.
If the webasto doesn't sense heat, it will stop again, and repeat the cycle 3 times. You just dont get any fuel, else you would have smelled it and the smoke.
My attempt to rebuild a DBW46: (Im Dutch)
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
It takes a very long time to get fuel to the unit, you need to pulse the voltage on the pump if you do it manually.
If the fuelline is empty it can take 15 minute to get fuel.
I have some documentation for you.
If the webasto doesn't sense heat, it will stop again, and repeat the cycle 3 times. You just dont get any fuel, else you would have smelled it and the smoke.
My attempt to rebuild a DBW46: (Im Dutch)
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
I have that document thanks. I undestand about the fuel. My unit is installed in a boat and the fuel supply is very close by. I've checked that it while manually pumping it it has reached the top most entry point of the combustion chamber. I've posted a video as well. You can find it and some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ih8gplus/
I also have checked and cleaned the connectors at the top of the unit and mapped them back to the ECU so I could pin the wires to test the components.
While cleaning the flame sensor I noticed the gasket or o-ring is rather flat but I'm not sure if that is how it's supposed to be or not? I am trying to locate a new one to see if that could be related/ causing an air leak. I have received some testing info from a guy "French Mike" you might have run across who apparently has the ability to fix the ecu units but is located in France. I've tried testing all components individually and they seem to be working but still nothing past 90 seconds and no automatic retrys. Reading this previous posters issues seems like swapping out the ecu didn't solve his problem either. Unfortunately, who knows as he left all the people who were helping him without any kind of update post. Did he figure it out of just give up? I'm ready to disconnect this and throw it overboard!
I thought maybe if I could just get it to light I'd be able to check the rest of the system out and see if an ECU replacement even made sense. I didn't want too much fuel in the chamber but I might try to do that again. I'm not sure what else I can do at this point but I'd bet it is just something stupid that I'm missing. The other thing is the gasket to the burner - seems I have a good seal but I've read other say any air leak and it won't work. I see no cracks....
Ideas welcome!
Dankjewel SuperCow,
I have that document thanks. I undestand about the fuel. My unit is installed in a boat and the fuel supply is very close by. I've checked that it while manually pumping it it has reached the top most entry point of the combustion chamber. I've posted a video as well. You can find it and some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ih8gplus/
I also have checked and cleaned the connectors at the top of the unit and mapped them back to the ECU so I could pin the wires to test the components.
While cleaning the flame sensor I noticed the gasket or o-ring is rather flat but I'm not sure if that is how it's supposed to be or not? I am trying to locate a new one to see if that could be related/ causing an air leak. I have received some testing info from a guy "French Mike" you might have run across who apparently has the ability to fix the ecu units but is located in France. I've tried testing all components individually and they seem to be working but still nothing past 90 seconds and no automatic retrys. Reading this previous posters issues seems like swapping out the ecu didn't solve his problem either. Unfortunately, who knows as he left all the people who were helping him without any kind of update post. Did he figure it out of just give up? I'm ready to disconnect this and throw it overboard!
I thought maybe if I could just get it to light I'd be able to check the rest of the system out and see if an ECU replacement even made sense. I didn't want too much fuel in the chamber but I might try to do that again. I'm not sure what else I can do at this point but I'd bet it is just something stupid that I'm missing. The other thing is the gasket to the burner - seems I have a good seal but I've read other say any air leak and it won't work. I see no cracks....
Ideas welcome!
My PDF, page 9 para 2.8 there 2 kinds of temp fuses, a reset able, and one that blows out.
IF that fuse is blow, the fuelpump will not turn on.
You can easy bypass this to test it, wire pin 11 and 12 together.
If it works, replace temp fuse.
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
I have read in the documentation, and i think maybe your temperature fuse is defective. I measure resistance in mine, (pin 11 and 12) i measure very low ohm 0.1
My PDF, page 9 para 2.8 there 2 kinds of temp fuses, a reset able, and one that blows out.
IF that fuse is blow, the fuelpump will not turn on.
You can easy bypass this to test it, wire pin 11 and 12 together.
If it works, replace temp fuse.
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
Sorry, I forgot to list that one - I had a new one in my spare parts and swapped it in already - (double blue wires) I measured it also as < .1 ohms before putting it in. I have the older model that doesn't have the resettable one. I will try shorting those two connectors on my next test rounds... The other temp sensor is the one closest to the glow plug (the sensor) is the only one I haven't really thoroughly tested but as the system is cold, I wouldn't think it is in play. The other thing I could do is measure the resistance of the flame sensor under test. The metal part of the chamber never seems to get hot ever but it might be cooling off before i get it opened up to look at it since it is only running for 30 seconds or less.
here are a few other thoughts
- Any idea how important air bubbles in fuel line or water line could play? I really don't think I have them because my fuel is right there and the system has an expansion tank that is mounted up much higher and is full of coolant. but then again... I think before I do the test again I'll run the water pump manually for a few minutes to work out any possible air.
- Surprisingly there is no fuel spray nozzle for the fuel into the chamber that I could see in the specs or on my parts. Is that right? Just a open hole really...? I can also manually test the fuel with the combustion cover off just to see the full path of the fuel.
- How else could I test the combustion fan? In my video you can hear it come on but I guess it would ultimately be coming out the exhaust. I'll have to disconnect that to see if I feel any air getting thru.
Thanks again, I REALLY appreciate your ideas SuperCow.
Dankjewel once again SuperCow,
Sorry, I forgot to list that one - I had a new one in my spare parts and swapped it in already - (double blue wires) I measured it also as < .1 ohms before putting it in. I have the older model that doesn't have the resettable one. I will try shorting those two connectors on my next test rounds... The other temp sensor is the one closest to the glow plug (the sensor) is the only one I haven't really thoroughly tested but as the system is cold, I wouldn't think it is in play. The other thing I could do is measure the resistance of the flame sensor under test. The metal part of the chamber never seems to get hot ever but it might be cooling off before i get it opened up to look at it since it is only running for 30 seconds or less.
here are a few other thoughts
- Any idea how important air bubbles in fuel line or water line could play? I really don't think I have them because my fuel is right there and the system has an expansion tank that is mounted up much higher and is full of coolant. but then again... I think before I do the test again I'll run the water pump manually for a few minutes to work out any possible air.
- Surprisingly there is no fuel spray nozzle for the fuel into the chamber that I could see in the specs or on my parts. Is that right? Just a open hole really...? I can also manually test the fuel with the combustion cover off just to see the full path of the fuel.
- How else could I test the combustion fan? In my video you can hear it come on but I guess it would ultimately be coming out the exhaust. I'll have to disconnect that to see if I feel any air getting thru.
Thanks again, I REALLY appreciate your ideas SuperCow.
In my video you can see i have the diesel on a ladder(stairs)
First i had the fuel standing on the ground, and i didnt get fuel, so the fuelpump has to be lower the the fueltank.
You have a old style pump, i dont know if that matters.
Your wiring look good, also the positions of the plugs.
The flame sensor (the one in the burnchamer) shouldn't matter for the startup, it should start.
Only after a short period it doesn't detect heat so it shutdown.
Then you have a other temp sensor that messuare the watertemp, its ptc, should be low in ohm when its cold around 700-1000 ohms above 1500 ohms it doesn't start
As last resort what i would do take syringe what fits on the fuelport of the webasto, and squirt some diesel in it.
(after the glowplug cycle when the blowes starts)
***edit***
On your picture where is the connector - back to ecu...looks the blower is wired backwards. pin 3 = brown, pin 4 = violet
easy to check, does it blow from the exhaust?
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
Bubbles in coolant shouldnt matter at all.
In my video you can see i have the diesel on a ladder(stairs)
First i had the fuel standing on the ground, and i didnt get fuel, so the fuelpump has to be lower the the fueltank.
You have a old style pump, i dont know if that matters.
Your wiring look good, also the positions of the plugs.
The flame sensor (the one in the burnchamer) shouldn't matter for the startup, it should start.
Only after a short period it doesn't detect heat so it shutdown.
Then you have a other temp sensor that messuare the watertemp, its ptc, should be low in ohm when its cold around 700-1000 ohms above 1500 ohms it doesn't start
As last resort what i would do take syringe what fits on the fuelport of the webasto, and squirt some diesel in it.
(after the glowplug cycle when the blowes starts)
***edit***
On your picture where is the connector - back to ecu...looks the blower is wired backwards. pin 3 = brown, pin 4 = violet
easy to check, does it blow from the exhaust?
1986 W201 190D 2.5 Diesel
Can that sensor be jumped for testing purposes?
***edit***
On your picture where is the connector - back to ecu...looks the blower is wired backwards. pin 3 = brown, pin 4 = violet
easy to check, does it blow from the exhaust?
Please note, this system has worked in the past both the fuel filter and feed location and the exhaust goes out the stern of the boat.
Are you talking about the sensor connector bundle that sits on top of the burner? This back to back connector was a bit of a puzzel with different color wires! mapping sensor wires to the ECU from the manuals wiring diagram was a challenge - mine has black wires for positive leads and white for negitive is not normal for me, a elec novice. It's possible I reversed those two but I was looking at photo I took so I don't think so. The fan itself has 2 brown wires connected to it. I'll have to take the exhaust off to see if it is blowing or sucking as I can't easily get to the stern.
FYI, This system isn't connected to the engine for a preheater, it has 5 registers and 2 thermostats for two separate zones. I am only turning on one thermostat, maybe I should try both?
Thanks again :
>>> Then you have another temp sensor that messuare the watertemp, its ptc, should be low in ohm when its cold around 700-1000 ohms above 1500 ohms it doesn't start
Can that sensor be jumped for testing purposes?
***edit***
On your picture where is the connector - back to ecu...looks the blower is wired backwards. pin 3 = brown, pin 4 = violet
easy to check, does it blow from the exhaust?
Please note, this system has worked in the past both the fuel filter and feed location and the exhaust goes out the stern of the boat.
Are you talking about the sensor connector bundle that sits on top of the burner? This back to back connector was a bit of a puzzel with different color wires! mapping sensor wires to the ECU from the manuals wiring diagram was a challenge - mine has black wires for positive leads and white for negitive is not normal for me, a elec novice. It's possible I reversed those two but I was looking at photo I took so I don't think so. The fan itself has 2 brown wires connected to it. I'll have to take the exhaust off to see if it is blowing or sucking as I can't easily get to the stern.
FYI, This system isn't connected to the engine for a preheater, it has 5 registers and 2 thermostats for two separate zones. I am only turning on one thermostat, maybe I should try both?
Thanks again :
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