Vacuum form headlight doors?
Vacuum form headlight doors?
11-25-2009, 10:19 PM
#1
This way, for almost nothing in weight and difficulty, you could end up with a super custom looking louver setup using the fog light space like kamel did.
Im going to make a vacuum form machine and post back after I try this
Looking at kamel's ride at http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/kame...-t-44.html (awesome by the way), it occurs to me that you could easily make a custom cover for the headlight door piece out of styrene.
This way, for almost nothing in weight and difficulty, you could end up with a super custom looking louver setup using the fog light space like kamel did.
Im going to make a vacuum form machine and post back after I try this
12-06-2009, 02:15 AM
#2
here are a number of pictures of the process-
I modified a couple of old busted door pieces into molds for this experiment. I poured gypsum casting cement into where the fog would be located-
heres a few pics of the former headlight doors, now molds after sanding and shaping-
A couple pics of the vacuum form machine-
Forming process-
more pics-
results after forming, the molds will need work if I want to do this again, the stock MB plastic will certainly break with the heat, I would probably cast a negative in alginate and recast a complete piece out of casting cement.
There was some bleed through of the shape of the plug, not enough sanding on the mold. Later versions will be better quality-
Couple of comparison shots-
right off of the mold, and after cutting, sanding, and shaping. Final form slips right over the existing headlight doors. Plus, with the flat backing over the fog lamp, I can pretty much put any shape I want if I want to add louvers or a grill maybe. Im out of town at the moment, but when Im back, Ill take a few pics of how they might look on a car.
This post was last modified: 12-06-2009, 02:26 AM by JB3.
Ok, rigged up a basic vacuum form machine, and made a couple of test pieces-
here are a number of pictures of the process-
I modified a couple of old busted door pieces into molds for this experiment. I poured gypsum casting cement into where the fog would be located-
heres a few pics of the former headlight doors, now molds after sanding and shaping-
A couple pics of the vacuum form machine-
Forming process-
more pics-
results after forming, the molds will need work if I want to do this again, the stock MB plastic will certainly break with the heat, I would probably cast a negative in alginate and recast a complete piece out of casting cement.
There was some bleed through of the shape of the plug, not enough sanding on the mold. Later versions will be better quality-
Couple of comparison shots-
right off of the mold, and after cutting, sanding, and shaping. Final form slips right over the existing headlight doors. Plus, with the flat backing over the fog lamp, I can pretty much put any shape I want if I want to add louvers or a grill maybe. Im out of town at the moment, but when Im back, Ill take a few pics of how they might look on a car.
12-06-2009, 02:48 AM
#4
Let me go and see if they need any trimming or shaping this next week on some dead cars in my area, then Ill just send this pair to you if you'd like. After all, this whole project is based on your car! PM me your mailing address. The fee would be for you to post back with some pics if you use them!
12-06-2009, 11:24 AM
#5
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
12-06-2009, 11:24 AM #5Ah - thermoforming, that is one process of production we use for the products we make. Looks nice, it looks like you have some experience in this.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
12-07-2009, 10:55 AM
#6
(12-06-2009, 11:24 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Ah - thermoforming, that is one process of production we use for the products we make. Looks nice, it looks like you have some experience in this.
If it can be made in the home for minimal investment, im all over it!
Here are some comparison pics, for me, the jury is still out on how this looks.
Got kind of a bug eyed loopy look to it with the bright white. They will need a little trimming on the outside next to the turn signal, and the look would really change based on how you handle finish and the flat spaces. I just sort of pushed the edges on in this picture, so they stick out a little bit. Fully fitted would be more integrated with the hood
Definitely completely changes the look of the car, for better or for worse. If there were some features on the flat space, it might look awesome.
The guy at the shop I was at was saying it would really change if you had something going on, like an intake grill, and on the opposite side you could glue the words turbo diesel on to it. We both kind of agreed that something needs to go there, maybe not fog lights, but something to tie the headlights and grill together. Might make an interesting look. Opinions?
This post was last modified: 12-07-2009, 10:57 AM by JB3.
(12-06-2009, 11:24 AM)Rudolf_Diesel Ah - thermoforming, that is one process of production we use for the products we make. Looks nice, it looks like you have some experience in this.
If it can be made in the home for minimal investment, im all over it!
Here are some comparison pics, for me, the jury is still out on how this looks.
Got kind of a bug eyed loopy look to it with the bright white. They will need a little trimming on the outside next to the turn signal, and the look would really change based on how you handle finish and the flat spaces. I just sort of pushed the edges on in this picture, so they stick out a little bit. Fully fitted would be more integrated with the hood
Definitely completely changes the look of the car, for better or for worse. If there were some features on the flat space, it might look awesome.
The guy at the shop I was at was saying it would really change if you had something going on, like an intake grill, and on the opposite side you could glue the words turbo diesel on to it. We both kind of agreed that something needs to go there, maybe not fog lights, but something to tie the headlights and grill together. Might make an interesting look. Opinions?
12-07-2009, 03:03 PM
#8
(12-07-2009, 02:48 PM)winmutt Seems like a really easy way to make molds for spoilers and what not right?
definitely, the problem with the "at home" version of these machines is that you are limited in size to what can fit in a home oven. Whats been going through my mind repeatedly is "pillar pods you dont have to modify"
You would either have to buy a real machine, use one somewhere, or cut up a bunch of ovens to heat a frame long enough for, lets say body kit parts. Other than that, the skys the limit on what you can make as long as it has a release angle.
Im looking into different plastics other than styrene as well, something that might be a little more recyclable since there is a decent amount of waste, maybe Rudolf_Diesel has some experience?
check that- from what I was just reading, polystyrene is recyclable with a no: 6 symbol.
This post was last modified: 12-07-2009, 03:37 PM by JB3.
(12-07-2009, 02:48 PM)winmutt Seems like a really easy way to make molds for spoilers and what not right?
definitely, the problem with the "at home" version of these machines is that you are limited in size to what can fit in a home oven. Whats been going through my mind repeatedly is "pillar pods you dont have to modify"
You would either have to buy a real machine, use one somewhere, or cut up a bunch of ovens to heat a frame long enough for, lets say body kit parts. Other than that, the skys the limit on what you can make as long as it has a release angle.
Im looking into different plastics other than styrene as well, something that might be a little more recyclable since there is a decent amount of waste, maybe Rudolf_Diesel has some experience?
check that- from what I was just reading, polystyrene is recyclable with a no: 6 symbol.
12-07-2009, 04:21 PM
#9
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
Painting them black would make them look much more natural. Now here's a crazy idea. vacuum forming body panels? possibly even bumpers? hmmmm
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
12-07-2009, 09:42 PM
#11
That vacuum form table was crappily made at a friends house, my oven is actually a little older and bigger, I am now making mark 2 vacuum form table with some better construction.
I bet you can totally pump out body panels, the machines big enough are just soooo expensive. If you were to make a qualiy mold though, I bet you could take the mold to a facility and have a panel made. I made these pieces out of 8th inch stryrene, and they are pretty stiff and heavy duty.
From what I was reading, the thickness of the material on the flats is reduced by 30% and on the up and downs by 10% when you stretch over a mold. At the same time, the structural integrity of the part is also increased, so things work out, but to make a decently stiff enough body panel, you would have to use at least 1/4 inch or bigger. Ive only gone up to a 1/4 inch in the past.
Still searching for a more recyclable plastic, grade 6 is actually pretty crappy since grade 7 is the hardest to recycle. I cant find a local center that will take grade 6. I want to find something down in grade 2. there is like a 50% waste in plastic, you make a huge pile of garbage in this process.
that should be the next project for this toy, an A-pillar gauge pod that is actually the right angle for these cars. It would take some considerable shaping and screwing around, but as long as a release is incorporated into it, it should work. Also, I see no reason why we can't make a kind of ghetto version of this taxi dash part- http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/taxi...t-297.html
That vacuum form table was crappily made at a friends house, my oven is actually a little older and bigger, I am now making mark 2 vacuum form table with some better construction.
I bet you can totally pump out body panels, the machines big enough are just soooo expensive. If you were to make a qualiy mold though, I bet you could take the mold to a facility and have a panel made. I made these pieces out of 8th inch stryrene, and they are pretty stiff and heavy duty.
From what I was reading, the thickness of the material on the flats is reduced by 30% and on the up and downs by 10% when you stretch over a mold. At the same time, the structural integrity of the part is also increased, so things work out, but to make a decently stiff enough body panel, you would have to use at least 1/4 inch or bigger. Ive only gone up to a 1/4 inch in the past.
Still searching for a more recyclable plastic, grade 6 is actually pretty crappy since grade 7 is the hardest to recycle. I cant find a local center that will take grade 6. I want to find something down in grade 2. there is like a 50% waste in plastic, you make a huge pile of garbage in this process.
12-08-2009, 08:18 AM
#12
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
12-08-2009, 08:18 AM #12We use PET (PETG / APET / RPET), PVC, and Polystyrene. We have to grind PS into small chips and send to a recycler. It is not impossible, just a pain. You are probably on the right track with PS, it is more rigid than the other materials, unless you use a really heavy gauge. We run our ovens around 650 degrees more or less depending on the material. If you have ever seen the Simpsons DVD collector series cases, we made those.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
12-08-2009, 10:00 AM
#13
Here are a second set of comparison pics, this time I found a non horrific car to put them on, and painted them. The guy already has kind of a nice look going on, he had the original panels painted a nice grey. Still need to trim them a bit on the bottom, and I was unable to close the hood fully because of engine work taking place, but you get a better idea. If I were to do this, I would remount a set of stand alone fogs either below on on top of the bumper in the same general area. The other option would be to split the space, and put into the mold a provision for smaller newer fog lights in the flat space, with an air intake above-
This post was last modified: 12-08-2009, 10:05 AM by JB3.
Simpsons DVD collector cases! I have seen and own your work
Here are a second set of comparison pics, this time I found a non horrific car to put them on, and painted them. The guy already has kind of a nice look going on, he had the original panels painted a nice grey. Still need to trim them a bit on the bottom, and I was unable to close the hood fully because of engine work taking place, but you get a better idea. If I were to do this, I would remount a set of stand alone fogs either below on on top of the bumper in the same general area. The other option would be to split the space, and put into the mold a provision for smaller newer fog lights in the flat space, with an air intake above-
12-28-2009, 05:42 PM
#14
How much for a "replica" clear front piece?
for lack of better words lol.This is great man, thumbs up!
*edit* "a set of clear front pieces" haha
This post was last modified: 12-28-2009, 05:43 PM by Nick.
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
Ahhhh this is awesome! A while back I ripped the clear panels off the front of the light doors and painted the "fins" flat black, and since then I've been hopping junkyards left and right searching for a really nice set of light doors to steal the clear panels from.
How much for a "replica" clear front piece? for lack of better words lol.
This is great man, thumbs up!
*edit* "a set of clear front pieces" haha
1983 300CD "Spike" Stock, as of now.
01-08-2010, 09:38 PM
#16
Kamel, if you want bumpers, fiberglass is pretty easy. I've heard rumors of 'DIY Carbon Fiber' but I have no idea how involved/feasible/still expensive it might be.
I'm thinking of making a panel to replace the sunroof panel. Use the stock piece as the mold, leave about an inch of overlay around the edge and use 3M double sided tape. Or, for us in lovely SoCal and the like - Velcro?
Lightweight, gets rid of the tracks, cable, and motor, and with the Velcro you'd still have a sunroof! Wouldn't work in Washington, but in Cali...if you moved you'd just 3M it and maybe do something for a reliable watertight seal (non silicone if you ever want to paint the car and don't want fisheyes everywhere.)
The sunroof panel would fit in an oven...if you make 'em, send me one for the idea! 
This post was last modified: 01-08-2010, 09:40 PM by CID Vicious.
CID Vicious
01-08-2010, 09:38 PM #16It's certainly different. Personally I like the lights too much to want to lose them. Maybe for relocation to under the bumper.
Kamel, if you want bumpers, fiberglass is pretty easy. I've heard rumors of 'DIY Carbon Fiber' but I have no idea how involved/feasible/still expensive it might be.
I'm thinking of making a panel to replace the sunroof panel. Use the stock piece as the mold, leave about an inch of overlay around the edge and use 3M double sided tape. Or, for us in lovely SoCal and the like - Velcro? Lightweight, gets rid of the tracks, cable, and motor, and with the Velcro you'd still have a sunroof! Wouldn't work in Washington, but in Cali...if you moved you'd just 3M it and maybe do something for a reliable watertight seal (non silicone if you ever want to paint the car and don't want fisheyes everywhere.)
The sunroof panel would fit in an oven...if you make 'em, send me one for the idea!
09-15-2010, 12:33 AM
#19
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-15-2010, 12:33 AM #19Please Mr. Drop I need a Pillar Pod for some gauges!!!!!!! FML please!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
09-15-2010, 03:26 AM
#20
(01-08-2010, 09:38 PM)CID Vicious I've heard rumors of 'DIY Carbon Fiber' but I have no idea how involved/feasible/still expensive it might be.
I unfortunately have no personal experience, but talked at length with someone that worked for a high end race car restoration company (specialized in Can/Am and Group C/GTP cars).
Anywhos, he said he would find pre-impregnated carbon fiber rolls out of expiration on ebay. He said as long as it wasn't something structural he had never had a problem making things such as body parts, air intakes, etc. out of carbon fiber. He said he would just use an old oven. I've also found out that carbon fiber can be slow cured (without an oven or autoclave) but it takes 6-12 months. BTW, the slightly expired pre-impregnated rolls of carbon fiber were very reasonably priced--I believe about 1/3-1/7 the price of non-expired rolls.
Anybody here have experience or knowledge about working with carbon fiber???
Any input/suggestions hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.
This post was last modified: 09-15-2010, 03:28 AM by Silberpfeil.
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Silberpfeil
09-15-2010, 03:26 AM #20(01-08-2010, 09:38 PM)CID Vicious I've heard rumors of 'DIY Carbon Fiber' but I have no idea how involved/feasible/still expensive it might be.
I unfortunately have no personal experience, but talked at length with someone that worked for a high end race car restoration company (specialized in Can/Am and Group C/GTP cars).
Anywhos, he said he would find pre-impregnated carbon fiber rolls out of expiration on ebay. He said as long as it wasn't something structural he had never had a problem making things such as body parts, air intakes, etc. out of carbon fiber. He said he would just use an old oven. I've also found out that carbon fiber can be slow cured (without an oven or autoclave) but it takes 6-12 months. BTW, the slightly expired pre-impregnated rolls of carbon fiber were very reasonably priced--I believe about 1/3-1/7 the price of non-expired rolls.
Anybody here have experience or knowledge about working with carbon fiber???
Any input/suggestions hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
11-10-2010, 10:57 PM
#21
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
11-10-2010, 10:57 PM #21Hey drop would you consider vaccuforming the euro light lenses? I need some without flutting for my next project...
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
11-17-2010, 01:05 AM
#23
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-17-2010, 01:05 AM #23Yeah yeah, what winmutt said!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
11-17-2010, 01:20 AM
#24
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
He's been out giving candy to kids from his van window again, he'll be back once he runs out of snickers bars!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
11-17-2010, 11:10 AM
#25
(11-17-2010, 01:20 AM)300D50 He's been out giving candy to kids from his van window again, he'll be back once he runs out of snickers bars!
kids over 18, sure.
Ive been moving out of state
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-17-2010, 01:20 AM)300D50 He's been out giving candy to kids from his van window again, he'll be back once he runs out of snickers bars!
kids over 18, sure.
Ive been moving out of state
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
11-17-2010, 11:41 AM
#26
You mean we're loosing one of the few properly cared for MB's in NY to RI?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Wait, moving!!? What???!?!!!!
You mean we're loosing one of the few properly cared for MB's in NY to RI?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
11-17-2010, 04:59 PM
#27
(11-17-2010, 11:41 AM)300D50 Wait, moving!!? What???!?!!!!
You mean we're loosing one of the few properly cared for MB's in NY to RI?
What can I say? I will happily move 350 miles to pay 1/4 the health insurance for twice the benefits since im self insured. I am getting hosed right now, monthly health insurance will go from nearly 500 bucks a month down to 140 for me. I shit you not. I don't know what you pay, but thats money id rather spend on other things.
I also get to register my car under antique plates, but still be able to use it daily!
RI has a nice dual registration provision for DD antique vehicles with specialized plates, which allows you to drive around all the time, not just for parades and holidays. Plus titles are not required for over 10 years old, and there is no limit on the amount of cars sold or bought per year. I love that little model T license plate, I want that on my car.
I could make an endless argument for moving based only on a DMV comparison, ill be able to actually register my 74 with only a previous registration, and a bill of sale. I can disappear the messed up title. The same vehicle could never be registered in NY.
This post was last modified: 11-17-2010, 05:02 PM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-17-2010, 11:41 AM)300D50 Wait, moving!!? What???!?!!!!
You mean we're loosing one of the few properly cared for MB's in NY to RI?
What can I say? I will happily move 350 miles to pay 1/4 the health insurance for twice the benefits since im self insured. I am getting hosed right now, monthly health insurance will go from nearly 500 bucks a month down to 140 for me. I shit you not. I don't know what you pay, but thats money id rather spend on other things.
I also get to register my car under antique plates, but still be able to use it daily!
RI has a nice dual registration provision for DD antique vehicles with specialized plates, which allows you to drive around all the time, not just for parades and holidays. Plus titles are not required for over 10 years old, and there is no limit on the amount of cars sold or bought per year. I love that little model T license plate, I want that on my car.
I could make an endless argument for moving based only on a DMV comparison, ill be able to actually register my 74 with only a previous registration, and a bill of sale. I can disappear the messed up title. The same vehicle could never be registered in NY.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
11-18-2010, 01:02 AM
#28
This post was last modified: 11-18-2010, 01:03 AM by mike-81-240d.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
11-18-2010, 01:02 AM #28Congrats, sounds like a bundle of savings that could be spent at dervtuning...
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
11-18-2010, 01:52 AM
#29
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
What's RI's stance on kit cars? I might have to rent a timeshare for a day each year...
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
11-18-2010, 10:56 PM
#30
And how is your newest acquisition coming along??
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Silberpfeil
11-18-2010, 10:56 PM #30Hey Dropnosky how soon is the move??
And how is your newest acquisition coming along??
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
11-19-2010, 07:24 AM
#31
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I am moving this sat for the second time in a year.... With a weeks notice. Not fun. Of course my move is only 15miles and for many good reasons...
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
11-19-2010, 08:41 AM
#32
(11-18-2010, 10:56 PM)Silberpfeil Hey Dropnosky how soon is the move??
And how is your newest acquisition coming along??
almost 80% done. Moved most of my stuff this last week and did all paperwork. Still have to go back and get the van, but Ill be back and forth to CNY all the time anyway, so im figuring out how to grab it and drive it down. Just a matter of train and bus schedules, I did manage to get it registered so its just a matter of driving it. We will see if such a POS can make such a long drive on the tired V6. Ill be taking a sleeping bag and rations, and will be glad for the 7 spares tires and 2 spare batteries probably!
(11-19-2010, 07:24 AM)winmutt I am moving this sat for the second time in a year.... With a weeks notice. Not fun. Of course my move is only 15miles and for many good reasons...
What? Holy shit, thats got to be a pain. Why the weeks notice? Its been an easy move for me since ive been planning this for over a year.
This post was last modified: 11-19-2010, 08:43 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-18-2010, 10:56 PM)Silberpfeil Hey Dropnosky how soon is the move??
And how is your newest acquisition coming along??
almost 80% done. Moved most of my stuff this last week and did all paperwork. Still have to go back and get the van, but Ill be back and forth to CNY all the time anyway, so im figuring out how to grab it and drive it down. Just a matter of train and bus schedules, I did manage to get it registered so its just a matter of driving it. We will see if such a POS can make such a long drive on the tired V6. Ill be taking a sleeping bag and rations, and will be glad for the 7 spares tires and 2 spare batteries probably!
(11-19-2010, 07:24 AM)winmutt I am moving this sat for the second time in a year.... With a weeks notice. Not fun. Of course my move is only 15miles and for many good reasons...
What? Holy shit, thats got to be a pain. Why the weeks notice? Its been an easy move for me since ive been planning this for over a year.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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