STD Maintenance General Idler bushings

Idler bushings

Idler bushings

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
11-19-2010, 08:35 AM #1
Is it just a simple swap job as it appears or does the arm actually need to be removed and the bushings pressed out/in?

[Image: 1244600019.jpg]

I suppose lacking a press a long bolt and fender washers could be used to pull them together into the housing.
This post was last modified: 11-19-2010, 08:36 AM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
11-19-2010, 08:35 AM #1

Is it just a simple swap job as it appears or does the arm actually need to be removed and the bushings pressed out/in?

[Image: 1244600019.jpg]

I suppose lacking a press a long bolt and fender washers could be used to pull them together into the housing.

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
11-19-2010, 05:13 PM #2
(11-19-2010, 08:35 AM)ForcedInduction Is it just a simple swap job as it appears or does the arm actually need to be removed and the bushings pressed out/in?

[Image: 1244600019.jpg]

I suppose lacking a press a long bolt and fender washers could be used to pull them together into the housing.

It's a pretty straight forward job..... I've been lucky... Didn't have to deal with rust welded bushings the couple of times I've done it.

After removing the arm, Get a long punch and big hammer, and pound out the bushing. To install, use the whole assembly and tighten it down to seat the bushings after initially starting it.


If your bushings are rust/rot welded, have fun! You know what to do! Wink



.

.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
11-19-2010, 05:13 PM #2

(11-19-2010, 08:35 AM)ForcedInduction Is it just a simple swap job as it appears or does the arm actually need to be removed and the bushings pressed out/in?

[Image: 1244600019.jpg]

I suppose lacking a press a long bolt and fender washers could be used to pull them together into the housing.

It's a pretty straight forward job..... I've been lucky... Didn't have to deal with rust welded bushings the couple of times I've done it.

After removing the arm, Get a long punch and big hammer, and pound out the bushing. To install, use the whole assembly and tighten it down to seat the bushings after initially starting it.


If your bushings are rust/rot welded, have fun! You know what to do! Wink



.

.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
11-20-2010, 08:57 AM #3
So the arm must be removed or can it be turned out of the way?
ForcedInduction
11-20-2010, 08:57 AM #3

So the arm must be removed or can it be turned out of the way?

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
11-20-2010, 05:24 PM #4
(11-20-2010, 08:57 AM)ForcedInduction So the arm must be removed or can it be turned out of the way?

Remove the bolt and push the arm out of the way with the tie rod and center link still attached.

   



BTW - shouldn't this thread be in the "other" section of maintenance instead of "engine".

.
This post was last modified: 11-20-2010, 05:26 PM by DeliveryValve.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
11-20-2010, 05:24 PM #4

(11-20-2010, 08:57 AM)ForcedInduction So the arm must be removed or can it be turned out of the way?

Remove the bolt and push the arm out of the way with the tie rod and center link still attached.

   



BTW - shouldn't this thread be in the "other" section of maintenance instead of "engine".

.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

Alastair E
Moderator?--Nah...

266
11-27-2010, 09:20 AM #5
Last time (just recently) I did an Idler on a W123, I didnt even jack the car up or remove a wheel...

Just dropped out the centre bolt, moved the link outta the way and banged out the bushes....

Cleaned out the tube of crud and rust with wire-brush cut down, greased its inner bore, pressed in the new bushes with a G clamp and re-fitted the link and the centre-bolt.

Job took less than half-hour...

[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]
Alastair E
11-27-2010, 09:20 AM #5

Last time (just recently) I did an Idler on a W123, I didnt even jack the car up or remove a wheel...

Just dropped out the centre bolt, moved the link outta the way and banged out the bushes....

Cleaned out the tube of crud and rust with wire-brush cut down, greased its inner bore, pressed in the new bushes with a G clamp and re-fitted the link and the centre-bolt.

Job took less than half-hour...


[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
11-29-2010, 04:27 PM #6
You may need enough space under the var to stick something long enough in to pry out the rubber bits, but yes its that simple.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
11-29-2010, 04:27 PM #6

You may need enough space under the var to stick something long enough in to pry out the rubber bits, but yes its that simple.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 2 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 2 Guest(s)