Waterjetted VNT adapters
Waterjetted VNT adapters
12-18-2010, 07:56 AM
#1
This post was last modified: 12-18-2010, 08:01 AM by aaa.
Attached Files
Image(s)So I made a flange for a GT2256v via waterjet. This one was made out of 1/2" stainless. It was $90, I hope to get the cost down to 60 or something. What do you guys think about the material and thickness? I can go alot thinner, which would make it significantly cheaper but eliminate the possibility of "beveling" the hole to transition from the T3 opening to to the GT22 opening. Then again even with 1/2" there's not much beveling you can do.
Attached Files
Image(s)
12-18-2010, 08:00 AM
#2
ForcedInduction
12-18-2010, 08:00 AM
#2
I use 3/8" with no problems, you could probably go down to 1/4" and still have plenty of meat to thread in the studs.
12-18-2010, 01:43 PM
#4
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
What was "$90"? Did you have a shop make this? Materials?
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
12-20-2010, 11:47 PM
#8
(12-20-2010, 04:07 PM)aaa Well yes, making them in quantity would be cheaper as well. It looks like no one wants them though.
Thats pretty much it. I can make my own from a $5 weldable steel plate from Ace Hardware and a few hours work.
Drill a pilot hole, cut the rough port shape with a torch, fine shape with a carbide, file it to port match and drill and tap stud holes. Its worked great for 5 years now and I'll eventually make another to have a VNT on both my cars after the compound project.
This post was last modified: 12-20-2010, 11:50 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
12-20-2010, 11:47 PM
#8
(12-20-2010, 04:07 PM)aaa Well yes, making them in quantity would be cheaper as well. It looks like no one wants them though.
Thats pretty much it. I can make my own from a $5 weldable steel plate from Ace Hardware and a few hours work.
Drill a pilot hole, cut the rough port shape with a torch, fine shape with a carbide, file it to port match and drill and tap stud holes. Its worked great for 5 years now and I'll eventually make another to have a VNT on both my cars after the compound project.
12-22-2010, 09:56 PM
#10
I think I can make a couple more thick stainless for 60 right now. A thin mild steel quarter inch I can imagine going below 50. More is always cheaper, not sure how cheap the guy will go but since I don't have quantity I don't have anything to talk about with him.
12-23-2010, 12:44 AM
#11
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
12-23-2010, 12:44 AM #11I would buy one if I was doing a swap
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
12-23-2010, 09:48 PM
#12
(12-23-2010, 12:44 AM)Captain America I would buy one if I was doing a swap
Water jetting should be a nice short cut to cutting an adapter. I think $90 is too high though. I've had larger jobs done for $50 by local water jet cutters so if there are other water jet shops nearby then I suggest you shop around.
The main issue I see is that even after the water jet process, you still need to remove some significant metal manually to make a decent flowing adapter. The hole should have the odd polygon shape at one end and a rectangle at the other.
Having said that, I will probably have one cut locally via water jet to save a few hours of time and get precisely located holes. I would go with iron since it will be sandwiched between two hunks of cast iron.
Cheers. you're still a step ahead of me
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
(12-23-2010, 12:44 AM)Captain America I would buy one if I was doing a swap
Water jetting should be a nice short cut to cutting an adapter. I think $90 is too high though. I've had larger jobs done for $50 by local water jet cutters so if there are other water jet shops nearby then I suggest you shop around.
The main issue I see is that even after the water jet process, you still need to remove some significant metal manually to make a decent flowing adapter. The hole should have the odd polygon shape at one end and a rectangle at the other.
Having said that, I will probably have one cut locally via water jet to save a few hours of time and get precisely located holes. I would go with iron since it will be sandwiched between two hunks of cast iron.
Cheers. you're still a step ahead of me
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
Users browsing this thread:
10 Guest(s)
10 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
10 Guest(s)
10 Guest(s)