Engine's on the stand, what all should I do while I have it there?
Engine's on the stand, what all should I do while I have it there?
I'm mainly wondering what I should be checking besides valves while I have easy access.
I'll have to pop the crank out to do the rear main seal, so I'll know if I need to do bearings when that happens. Incidentally, are there any consumables that need to be replaced when the crank is removed?
I'm ok with pulling the head if there's a good reason to do it, but till then it's staying on.
Just want to get my massive order all setup in advance so I don't end up waiting a week for some small part.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Ok, the 617's been on the stand for the past few weeks, manifolds off, lower pan off, water pump off, all accessories removed,etc. Pump is still on, and head is still on.
I'm mainly wondering what I should be checking besides valves while I have easy access.
I'll have to pop the crank out to do the rear main seal, so I'll know if I need to do bearings when that happens. Incidentally, are there any consumables that need to be replaced when the crank is removed?
I'm ok with pulling the head if there's a good reason to do it, but till then it's staying on.
Just want to get my massive order all setup in advance so I don't end up waiting a week for some small part.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(12-27-2010, 06:14 AM)300D50 Ok, the 617's been on the stand for the past few weeks, manifolds off, lower pan off, water pump off, all accessories removed,etc. Pump is still on, and head is still on.I don't think the crank needs to be removed to replace or check it but it might be easier to check the timing chain tensioner while you have everything else off
I'm mainly wondering what I should be checking besides valves while I have easy access.
I'll have to pop the crank out to do the rear main seal, so I'll know if I need to do bearings when that happens. Incidentally, are there any consumables that need to be replaced when the crank is removed?
I'm ok with pulling the head if there's a good reason to do it, but till then it's staying on.
Just want to get my massive order all setup in advance so I don't end up waiting a week for some small part.
(12-27-2010, 06:14 AM)300D50 Ok, the 617's been on the stand for the past few weeks, manifolds off, lower pan off, water pump off, all accessories removed,etc. Pump is still on, and head is still on.I don't think the crank needs to be removed to replace or check it but it might be easier to check the timing chain tensioner while you have everything else off
I'm mainly wondering what I should be checking besides valves while I have easy access.
I'll have to pop the crank out to do the rear main seal, so I'll know if I need to do bearings when that happens. Incidentally, are there any consumables that need to be replaced when the crank is removed?
I'm ok with pulling the head if there's a good reason to do it, but till then it's staying on.
Just want to get my massive order all setup in advance so I don't end up waiting a week for some small part.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-28-2010, 10:15 AM #4I would do all of the seals and check the bearings! and call it good
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Also consider replacing the timing chain and tensioners since you have the crank out.
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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DeliveryValve
12-28-2010, 01:24 PM #5When you remove your crank, make sure you correctly measure the rod bolt stretch. If not within spec, you'll need to tap them out and replace them.
Also consider replacing the timing chain and tensioners since you have the crank out.
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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Lots of little adjustments add up. Check exact t.d.c. Mine was off 2degrees.Making pump timing off. Ck.exact cam timing,Adjusted mine to 3degrees advanced. Use 85yr.prechambers ,better fuel atomization.These should also have the larger inlet and outlet holes. A small mod.that I did to the exit holes seemed to work well. I taper reamed and than chamfered outside,do not enlarge inner most part of hole(prechamber could become too hot). Results,Almost all smoking stopped,Engine pulls harder and smoother.Make it stronger,smoother,and smoke less, with little or no money is my motto.Oh ya! better fuel mileage.
TDC check is a good idea, but that means pulling prechambers... unless I measure from the bottom with an extra-long indicator extension, which should be easy enough.
What's the idea with the cam timing?
Welcome to the forum!
DV: Good call on the rod bolts, I've got the tools to measure them for sure. Chain should be good, engine's been babied for 106K according to the old odometer. I'll let the stretch measurements talk though. The chain rails look good visualy... but I'm not sure. Tensioner needs to be checked in any case.
I sense I'll be having a larger order than I expected...
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Herc: I'm not confident enough to play with the prechambers right now, let alone chamfer the outlet holes in the tip. Maybe later on after everything's settled down a bit and I have some baseline info.
TDC check is a good idea, but that means pulling prechambers... unless I measure from the bottom with an extra-long indicator extension, which should be easy enough.
What's the idea with the cam timing?
Welcome to the forum!
DV: Good call on the rod bolts, I've got the tools to measure them for sure. Chain should be good, engine's been babied for 106K according to the old odometer. I'll let the stretch measurements talk though. The chain rails look good visualy... but I'm not sure. Tensioner needs to be checked in any case.
I sense I'll be having a larger order than I expected...
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
On these engines every little bit helps.Most engines receive a little performance improvement on the low end by advancing the cam. If replacing the rear main seal ,follow book instructions,pack that seal in well,leave a little long on ends.Very small amount of sealer at parting ends will ensure no leaks. Also remember to oil the seal.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
12-30-2010, 03:35 PM #9Well every project starts small and turn out to be huge. Haha I would do the head gasket, rings, and bearings for sure.... New timing chain also. aaaaaand a quick valve job
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
oil pan gasket, both oil filter gaskets, valve adjustment and manifold gasket, i guess replace the belts while your at it. lower and upper oil cooler lines.
the piece behind the alternator for the voltage that usually gets worn after all these years. also check your battery lines to back sure there not deterioating.
W116Lorinser
01-02-2011, 11:43 PM #10valve job and replacement of all gaskets.
oil pan gasket, both oil filter gaskets, valve adjustment and manifold gasket, i guess replace the belts while your at it. lower and upper oil cooler lines.
the piece behind the alternator for the voltage that usually gets worn after all these years. also check your battery lines to back sure there not deterioating.
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