Cheap OM617 performance
Cheap OM617 performance
I should have said it is a OM617a
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 11:13 AM #1Ok so I am going to be building a car for the Grassroots Motorsports $2011 Challenge. Basically it is a competition in which you have to build a car for under the $2011 budget cap and do a autocross, drag race and concours competition. So the car I am going to be getting has had a OM617 from a '83 300TD swapped in. It isn't a Mercedes car. It was a car that was started for the challenge a few years ago but wasn't finished and pasted on to someone else now I will be getting it. I will have $550 in the car right off the bat and I need to fabricate a driveshaft, finish some wiring and obviously upgrade the suspension. So I was wondering with the left-over money, what are the most cost effective modifications? From what I have been reading the IP is a big limiter in this engine and cost $$$$ to get a better one, am I off here? It seems from what I have read the W115 intake manifold is the one to get. These cars are a T3 pattern correct?
I should have said it is a OM617a
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
01-07-2011, 12:36 PM #2Yea its a t3. If you want cheap, look into cutting the collars on the delivery valves and hogging out the injectors, but doing that you will need a good intercooler.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 12:57 PM #3I was thinking of putting a Holset off a Cummins on it and a junkyard intercooler.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
01-07-2011, 01:07 PM #4Good choice on the turbo but not for that motor and the limited fuel. Your better off with a k26 kkk turbo or something larger possibly a t04 with an intercooler.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
(01-07-2011, 12:36 PM)led-panzer Yea its a t3. If you want cheap, look into cutting the collars on the delivery valves and hogging out the injectors, but doing that you will need a good intercooler.
What does cutting the collars on the delivery valve do?
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 01:23 PM #5I thought the KKK K26 turbo had a different flange then the T3. As far as I know the T04 is much more difficult to find in the junkyard then the Holset which is why I was leaning towards that. But if it can't take the turbo, I will look for something else. Most of my experience with automobiles has been Civics, MGs, Yamaha 2-strokes and Suzuki 600s so take that for what it is.
(01-07-2011, 12:36 PM)led-panzer Yea its a t3. If you want cheap, look into cutting the collars on the delivery valves and hogging out the injectors, but doing that you will need a good intercooler.
What does cutting the collars on the delivery valve do?
jonbobshinigin
01-07-2011, 03:11 PM #6Your problem will be fuel, not air flow to start with. For the turbo were you thinking HY35 or HX35? If so, it is too big, especially without enough fuel. There should be a writeup somewhere one a "full load adjustment" on your IP/Injection Pump. That will probably be the best place to start.
(01-07-2011, 03:11 PM)jonbobshinigin Your problem will be fuel, not air flow to start with. For the turbo were you thinking HY35 or HX35? If so, it is too big, especially without enough fuel. There should be a writeup somewhere one a "full load adjustment" on your IP/Injection Pump. That will probably be the best place to start.
Is this the writeup you are taking about?
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 03:41 PM #7HX35.
(01-07-2011, 03:11 PM)jonbobshinigin Your problem will be fuel, not air flow to start with. For the turbo were you thinking HY35 or HX35? If so, it is too big, especially without enough fuel. There should be a writeup somewhere one a "full load adjustment" on your IP/Injection Pump. That will probably be the best place to start.
Is this the writeup you are taking about?
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
(01-07-2011, 03:41 PM)Robert_UAH HX35.
(01-07-2011, 03:11 PM)jonbobshinigin Your problem will be fuel, not air flow to start with. For the turbo were you thinking HY35 or HX35? If so, it is too big, especially without enough fuel. There should be a writeup somewhere one a "full load adjustment" on your IP/Injection Pump. That will probably be the best place to start.
Is this the writeup you are taking about?
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
Yup thats the one!
Also do any maintenance that has been forgotten about.. Valve job, cam timing, IP timing, fuel filters.. all that will help the engine run its best, they will all make a difference. Boost should be around 12-14. If you can rebuild the injectors, do that as well. You could just put a larger comp wheel in the stock turbo instead of buying something else. I put a 60 trim in mine (the stock wheel is a 45 trim Garrett T3).
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
01-07-2011, 06:07 PM #9(01-07-2011, 03:41 PM)Robert_UAH HX35.
(01-07-2011, 03:11 PM)jonbobshinigin Your problem will be fuel, not air flow to start with. For the turbo were you thinking HY35 or HX35? If so, it is too big, especially without enough fuel. There should be a writeup somewhere one a "full load adjustment" on your IP/Injection Pump. That will probably be the best place to start.
Is this the writeup you are taking about?
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
Yup thats the one!
Also do any maintenance that has been forgotten about.. Valve job, cam timing, IP timing, fuel filters.. all that will help the engine run its best, they will all make a difference. Boost should be around 12-14. If you can rebuild the injectors, do that as well. You could just put a larger comp wheel in the stock turbo instead of buying something else. I put a 60 trim in mine (the stock wheel is a 45 trim Garrett T3).
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Barely enough to buy a high output injection pump. If you spend the money on anything else you'll never see more than 160hp, no matter what turbo you use.
ForcedInduction
01-07-2011, 06:28 PM
#10
$2011-$550=$1,461
Barely enough to buy a high output injection pump. If you spend the money on anything else you'll never see more than 160hp, no matter what turbo you use.
(01-07-2011, 06:28 PM)ForcedInduction $2011-$550=$1,461
Barely enough to buy a high output injection pump. If you spend the money on anything else you'll never see more than 160hp, no matter what turbo you use.
But $2011-$550-used race slicks-suspension upgrades-driveshaft-radiator will not be enough to buy a high output injection pump. Considering the original was rated at just over 100hp at the crank. Around 140-150hp would be nice for the time being.
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 06:54 PM #11(01-07-2011, 06:28 PM)ForcedInduction $2011-$550=$1,461
Barely enough to buy a high output injection pump. If you spend the money on anything else you'll never see more than 160hp, no matter what turbo you use.
But $2011-$550-used race slicks-suspension upgrades-driveshaft-radiator will not be enough to buy a high output injection pump. Considering the original was rated at just over 100hp at the crank. Around 140-150hp would be nice for the time being.
ForcedInduction
01-07-2011, 07:00 PM
#12
If you're going to use the stock injection pump then there isn't much point in increasing turbo airflow. The stock turbo can more than handle everything the stock injection pump can put out. If anything, you should go to a smaller turbo for better response.
Robert_UAH
01-07-2011, 07:14 PM #13So what can I do other then maintenance? Turn up the boost and bigger exhaust? After the Challenge the car will be getting a high output pump and a lot of other goodies in preparation for Targa Newfoundland.
(01-07-2011, 07:14 PM)Robert_UAH So what can I do other then maintenance? Turn up the boost and bigger exhaust? After the Challenge the car will be getting a high output pump and a lot of other goodies in preparation for Targa Newfoundland.
How serious are you about the Targa?
Are the rules still extensively cantered towards the vintage classes?
One of my fav Targa Newfoundland cars was an Escort RS 2000 with a modern 2.3 L Ford turbo 4 making over 400 hp
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Silberpfeil
01-17-2011, 06:36 AM #15(01-07-2011, 07:14 PM)Robert_UAH So what can I do other then maintenance? Turn up the boost and bigger exhaust? After the Challenge the car will be getting a high output pump and a lot of other goodies in preparation for Targa Newfoundland.
How serious are you about the Targa?
Are the rules still extensively cantered towards the vintage classes?
One of my fav Targa Newfoundland cars was an Escort RS 2000 with a modern 2.3 L Ford turbo 4 making over 400 hp
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Robert_UAH
01-18-2011, 09:35 AM #16I want to do it. It will be a Challenge car first and then it will all come apart to put a '99-'05 Miata front subframe and a lot of extra stiffening (like the Flyin' Miata butterfly brace) and AFCO dampers and extra horsepower. I am not sure how competitive I can be but I want to take a shot.
(08-08-2011, 07:54 AM)dalek Resurrecting thread, but wouldn't that make the Miata rather nose-heavy?
Seems to me it would be offensively heavy in the front end and under steer like crazy. Even with redesigning the suspension. You would be talking quite a bit of modification that just swapping in another years stock stuff would not accomplish.
(08-08-2011, 07:54 AM)dalek Resurrecting thread, but wouldn't that make the Miata rather nose-heavy?
Seems to me it would be offensively heavy in the front end and under steer like crazy. Even with redesigning the suspension. You would be talking quite a bit of modification that just swapping in another years stock stuff would not accomplish.
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