Lowering my car Does this look okay?
Lowering my car Does this look okay?
01-14-2011, 07:54 PM
#1
1981 300CD
1. BBS RS 7 x 16 Nexen N3000 205 50 16 ET 24 Diameter =24.1
2. BBS RS 8 x 16 Nexen N3000 245 45 16 ET 11 staggered set D = 24.6
3. OEM oil pan protector
4. KMAC Camber adjuster rear
5. front 3 inch spring cut = 2 spring Cut
6 rear 3.5 inch spring cut = 2.25 spring cut
1. Revalve Bilstein Comforts to HDs at Bilstein Poway CA $65 each plus urethane bushings.
2. Cut existing springs so if i make a mistake i can buy new ones.
3. Replace rubber bushings but dont know which.
4. Adjust height of car with 1-4 nub spring donuts.
5. Wait for group buy perfect sway bars front and rear.
English Bulldog
01-14-2011, 07:54 PM #1Does this plan look okay?
1981 300CD
1. BBS RS 7 x 16 Nexen N3000 205 50 16 ET 24 Diameter =24.1
2. BBS RS 8 x 16 Nexen N3000 245 45 16 ET 11 staggered set D = 24.6
3. OEM oil pan protector
4. KMAC Camber adjuster rear
5. front 3 inch spring cut = 2 spring Cut
6 rear 3.5 inch spring cut = 2.25 spring cut
1. Revalve Bilstein Comforts to HDs at Bilstein Poway CA $65 each plus urethane bushings.
2. Cut existing springs so if i make a mistake i can buy new ones.
3. Replace rubber bushings but dont know which.
4. Adjust height of car with 1-4 nub spring donuts.
5. Wait for group buy perfect sway bars front and rear.
01-15-2011, 12:07 AM
#2
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
You found a place that revalves? Comforts have one valve vs 2 in the HD. I know of no adjustment kit for the rear. I am 99% sure your coil counts are off in the rear and why would you want to drop the rear further than the front? TD sways in the front and good luck on the rear, custom fab?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-15-2011, 02:14 AM
#3
Right now I'm running 205/ 50 16 in the front and 245/50 in the rear. 8" rims all around.
I don't know about yours but my car sits ass low so I'd take 2 coils off the front first and see how I like it. I have 3.5" exhaust so I don't want to go too low.
Did you just buy the cd? My friend just sold his 82 300cd last week. Black with 500se rims with the centers painted black
This post was last modified: 01-15-2011, 02:16 AM by dieselboy.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
I work in poway everyday and I've yet to go into Bilstien and chat. I have bilstiens on my volvos and I'm getting a set for the merc.
Right now I'm running 205/ 50 16 in the front and 245/50 in the rear. 8" rims all around.
I don't know about yours but my car sits ass low so I'd take 2 coils off the front first and see how I like it. I have 3.5" exhaust so I don't want to go too low.
Did you just buy the cd? My friend just sold his 82 300cd last week. Black with 500se rims with the centers painted black
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
01-15-2011, 06:53 AM
#4
(01-15-2011, 12:07 AM)winmutt You found a place that revalves? Comforts have one valve vs 2 in the HD. I know of no adjustment kit for the rear. I am 99% sure your coil counts are off in the rear and why would you want to drop the rear further than the front? TD sways in the front and good luck on the rear, custom fab?
Yes, the Bilstein regional corporate marketing building in Poway will revalve for 65 dollars plus will sell you the bushings for cheap. they did not mention any issue with the revalving. they told me there was no such thing as a w123 sport.
Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.
the nexen 245s are 1/2 inch taller than the front. If i dont cut the rears more then i will have increased rake. sorta like the no rake look. so if i cut the fronts 3 inches to take away the gap, i have to cut 4 inches in the back to eliminate the rake or 3.5 inches to keep the rake the same.
(01-15-2011, 02:14 AM)dieselboy I don't know about yours but my car sits ass low so I'd take 2 coils off the front first and see how I like it. I have 3.5" exhaust so I don't want to go too low.
Did you just buy the cd? My friend just sold his 82 300cd last week. Black with 500se rims with the centers painted black
yes bot it in WA and was delivered in Dec. Fixed the leaky hoses and vacuum and now the engine is running perfect. Oil pressure is at 1.25 at idle warm. wonder if that is too low. 3.0 at speed and 3.0 at idle cold.
Car runs perfectly, trying to smart up on suspensions before putting the wheels on and chopping the springs. no aftermarket balanced sway bar set and lots of labor, so forgeting about that for now.
This post was last modified: 01-15-2011, 07:08 AM by English Bulldog.
English Bulldog
01-15-2011, 06:53 AM #4(01-15-2011, 12:07 AM)winmutt You found a place that revalves? Comforts have one valve vs 2 in the HD. I know of no adjustment kit for the rear. I am 99% sure your coil counts are off in the rear and why would you want to drop the rear further than the front? TD sways in the front and good luck on the rear, custom fab?
Yes, the Bilstein regional corporate marketing building in Poway will revalve for 65 dollars plus will sell you the bushings for cheap. they did not mention any issue with the revalving. they told me there was no such thing as a w123 sport.
Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.
the nexen 245s are 1/2 inch taller than the front. If i dont cut the rears more then i will have increased rake. sorta like the no rake look. so if i cut the fronts 3 inches to take away the gap, i have to cut 4 inches in the back to eliminate the rake or 3.5 inches to keep the rake the same.
(01-15-2011, 02:14 AM)dieselboy I don't know about yours but my car sits ass low so I'd take 2 coils off the front first and see how I like it. I have 3.5" exhaust so I don't want to go too low.
Did you just buy the cd? My friend just sold his 82 300cd last week. Black with 500se rims with the centers painted black
yes bot it in WA and was delivered in Dec. Fixed the leaky hoses and vacuum and now the engine is running perfect. Oil pressure is at 1.25 at idle warm. wonder if that is too low. 3.0 at speed and 3.0 at idle cold.
Car runs perfectly, trying to smart up on suspensions before putting the wheels on and chopping the springs. no aftermarket balanced sway bar set and lots of labor, so forgeting about that for now.
01-15-2011, 10:46 AM
#5
(01-15-2011, 02:14 AM)dieselboy I don't know about yours but my car sits ass lowThis is because you have worn components. Shocks usually fix the rear sag. I recommend getting everything ship shape before you start cutting. One coil off the rear is a pretty big drop.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(01-15-2011, 02:14 AM)dieselboy I don't know about yours but my car sits ass lowThis is because you have worn components. Shocks usually fix the rear sag. I recommend getting everything ship shape before you start cutting. One coil off the rear is a pretty big drop.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-15-2011, 10:53 AM
#6
(01-15-2011, 06:53 AM)English Bulldog Yes, the Bilstein regional corporate marketing building in Poway will revalve for 65 dollars plus will sell you the bushings for cheap. they did not mention any issue with the revalving. they told me there was no such thing as a w123 sport.That is pretty nifty, although without being local that works out to about even.
Quote:Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.Url? Part number? I am highly incredulous. I know they make kits for the 201 and 124.
Quote:yes bot it in WA and was delivered in Dec. Fixed the leaky hoses and vacuum and now the engine is running perfect. Oil pressure is at 1.25 at idle warm. wonder if that is too low. 3.0 at speed and 3.0 at idle cold.Its acceptable although the OCD in me wants the needle half way. Check the filter stem for plugs and leaky o rings. Plenty of info on other boards about it.
Quote:Car runs perfectly, trying to smart up on suspensions before putting the wheels on and chopping the springs.Its a good plan. I always do brakes -> suspension -> drive train before the engine. Not much point in having a fast car that cant stop or turn.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(01-15-2011, 06:53 AM)English Bulldog Yes, the Bilstein regional corporate marketing building in Poway will revalve for 65 dollars plus will sell you the bushings for cheap. they did not mention any issue with the revalving. they told me there was no such thing as a w123 sport.That is pretty nifty, although without being local that works out to about even.
Quote:Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.Url? Part number? I am highly incredulous. I know they make kits for the 201 and 124.
Quote:yes bot it in WA and was delivered in Dec. Fixed the leaky hoses and vacuum and now the engine is running perfect. Oil pressure is at 1.25 at idle warm. wonder if that is too low. 3.0 at speed and 3.0 at idle cold.Its acceptable although the OCD in me wants the needle half way. Check the filter stem for plugs and leaky o rings. Plenty of info on other boards about it.
Quote:Car runs perfectly, trying to smart up on suspensions before putting the wheels on and chopping the springs.Its a good plan. I always do brakes -> suspension -> drive train before the engine. Not much point in having a fast car that cant stop or turn.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-15-2011, 05:42 PM
#7
I'm curious a to what this camber kit is. I was going to play with the spare arms I have and see about cutting and turning them for rear camber correction.
I'm actually working across the street from Bilstien right now.
This post was last modified: 01-15-2011, 05:43 PM by dieselboy.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
I did it a little backwards because I had the head off already. I did a stage 0 though. My bushings are actually all new or newer. I need to upgrade my front brakes soon.
I'm curious a to what this camber kit is. I was going to play with the spare arms I have and see about cutting and turning them for rear camber correction.
I'm actually working across the street from Bilstien right now.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
01-15-2011, 06:23 PM
#8
Quote:Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.
KMAC Mercedes Rear Camber/Toe Kit 68-91 107/114/115/116/123/126
Brand: KMAC
Part Id: 501826H
List Price: $320.00
Our price: $289.00
You Save:
10%
Description: Correcting camber will allow for reduced wheel squat/costly inner edge tire wear and improved traction. This is essential when lowering, load carrying, or when expensive low profile tires are fitted. This kit utilizes a unique, patented single wrench adjustment and no special tools are required as a bushing extraction tool is included!
Please Note: Some items may need to be ordered from the Australia warehouse and may take up to 10 business days to arrive to our facility. If you need this item quickly, please contact us for stock status on your specific part number.
Adjustment Range (Degrees): -1.75 to 1.75
http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php?pro...400&page=1
[/quote]
Its a good plan. I always do brakes -> suspension -> drive train before the engine. Not much point in having a fast car that cant stop or turn.
I did the brakes and brake lines first. The car nose dives down when i hit the brakes and there is no left or right movement. straight really straight braking. I dont know if i am stopping quicker than current model cars, so dont know what will happen if everybody around me hits the brakes hard at the same time, but it feels so stable braking. Akebono ceramic pads.
there are no issues with the drive train. I replaced the window regulator, hood springs (the oem isnt as good as the rest of the car), thermostat, and vacuum system going all OEM parts. The cars is issue free concerning the brakes, under the hood, and in the transmission.
I taped a plastic garment bag over the window and now the tape is stuck to the paint job. I bought a mirror that had two folding wing mirrors to see the blind spots, but didnt like it and return it yesterday. I havent even washed it yet, because working on the mechanical stuff first. Some of the tires need air, maybe thats why it rolls. I am dying the bumper rubber. Wondering which 303 to buy? Saw a beautiful orange td in my town driving in the opposite direction and we both almost broke our necks.
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/benz/...20tone.jpg
I agree this car looks great. You can see the reflection in the dark color and the top color is less reflective. Somebody has an artistic side in a manly industry.
I want to lower my car similar but not sure how to do it.
I think he is using spacers in the rear. Look how the wheels come close to the outside wall and yet the tires are not super wide.
The front tires are tucked meaning that he cut 2 coils.
The rake in the rear is gone, meaning he cut more than two coils in the rear.
If there is no rake, then that means oversteer? Oversteer means you will break loose the rear end right. Then if you add sways then you have more oversteer correct?
if someone can post up that picture image and not the url it would be cool.
This post was last modified: 01-15-2011, 06:59 PM by English Bulldog.
English Bulldog
01-15-2011, 06:23 PM #8Quote:Kmac australia is selling both rear and front camber kits thru an us distributor. about 289 dollars free shipping. cant remember exact.
KMAC Mercedes Rear Camber/Toe Kit 68-91 107/114/115/116/123/126
Brand: KMAC
Part Id: 501826H
List Price: $320.00
Our price: $289.00
You Save:
10%
Description: Correcting camber will allow for reduced wheel squat/costly inner edge tire wear and improved traction. This is essential when lowering, load carrying, or when expensive low profile tires are fitted. This kit utilizes a unique, patented single wrench adjustment and no special tools are required as a bushing extraction tool is included!
Please Note: Some items may need to be ordered from the Australia warehouse and may take up to 10 business days to arrive to our facility. If you need this item quickly, please contact us for stock status on your specific part number.
Adjustment Range (Degrees): -1.75 to 1.75
http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php?pro...400&page=1
[/quote]
Its a good plan. I always do brakes -> suspension -> drive train before the engine. Not much point in having a fast car that cant stop or turn.
I did the brakes and brake lines first. The car nose dives down when i hit the brakes and there is no left or right movement. straight really straight braking. I dont know if i am stopping quicker than current model cars, so dont know what will happen if everybody around me hits the brakes hard at the same time, but it feels so stable braking. Akebono ceramic pads.
there are no issues with the drive train. I replaced the window regulator, hood springs (the oem isnt as good as the rest of the car), thermostat, and vacuum system going all OEM parts. The cars is issue free concerning the brakes, under the hood, and in the transmission.
I taped a plastic garment bag over the window and now the tape is stuck to the paint job. I bought a mirror that had two folding wing mirrors to see the blind spots, but didnt like it and return it yesterday. I havent even washed it yet, because working on the mechanical stuff first. Some of the tires need air, maybe thats why it rolls. I am dying the bumper rubber. Wondering which 303 to buy? Saw a beautiful orange td in my town driving in the opposite direction and we both almost broke our necks.
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/benz/...20tone.jpg
I agree this car looks great. You can see the reflection in the dark color and the top color is less reflective. Somebody has an artistic side in a manly industry.
I want to lower my car similar but not sure how to do it.
I think he is using spacers in the rear. Look how the wheels come close to the outside wall and yet the tires are not super wide.
The front tires are tucked meaning that he cut 2 coils.
The rake in the rear is gone, meaning he cut more than two coils in the rear.
If there is no rake, then that means oversteer? Oversteer means you will break loose the rear end right. Then if you add sways then you have more oversteer correct?
if someone can post up that picture image and not the url it would be cool.
01-15-2011, 07:36 PM
#9
That kmac solution is stupid simple. Anyone happen to know what the diameter of the eye for the rear lower arm bushings is?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
More than likely he is using H+R's which are available from the euro catalog.
That kmac solution is stupid simple. Anyone happen to know what the diameter of the eye for the rear lower arm bushings is?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-16-2011, 07:32 PM
#10
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Unless urethane and mild steel went way up in price, that kit's a little too expensive, considering it's likely CNC'd in bulk.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
01-16-2011, 08:46 PM
#11
(01-16-2011, 07:32 PM)300D50 Unless urethane and mild steel went way up in price, that kit's a little too expensive, considering it's likely CNC'd in bulk.
U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(01-16-2011, 07:32 PM)300D50 Unless urethane and mild steel went way up in price, that kit's a little too expensive, considering it's likely CNC'd in bulk.
U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-22-2011, 08:20 AM
#12
I wouldn't mind getting an STD..
Spaceraver
01-22-2011, 08:20 AM #12Could we not use those that are made to adjust the front camber on the W124 model??? Otherwise the time it takes to make some poly bushings are near to nothing if you know somebody with a lathe. I have a friend who races Alfa Romeo 75's on the weekends, and he makes his own adjustable bushings.
I wouldn't mind getting an STD..
01-22-2011, 09:09 AM
#13
(01-16-2011, 08:46 PM)winmutt U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
Promise you won't blow me in to the feds, and I'd be willing to overlook that.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(01-16-2011, 08:46 PM)winmutt U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
Promise you won't blow me in to the feds, and I'd be willing to overlook that.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
01-22-2011, 09:32 PM
#14
They did tell me that the shocks have 6.3 and 6.4 inches of travel. So if you lower 3 inches then you can see you are left with 3.3 and 3.4 inches of travel.
So in chopping, you should slow down the compression and use HD shocks which I just bought.
If the w123 shock were not crimped closed, then Bilstein would have reduced the internals of the shock body by 1.5 inches and cut the shock rod only 1.5 inch. 6.4 - 1.5 would leave 4.9 inches of travel. This would have been the optimum configuration.
I do not anticipate a bottoming out with the HDs but will have to wait after I put them on.
Same with the rear camber kit, we shall see.
This post was last modified: 01-22-2011, 09:35 PM by English Bulldog.
English Bulldog
01-22-2011, 09:32 PM #14I went to Bilstein in Poway. For the w123 the HD and Comfort shocks are crimped closed so they cannot revalve them.
They did tell me that the shocks have 6.3 and 6.4 inches of travel. So if you lower 3 inches then you can see you are left with 3.3 and 3.4 inches of travel.
So in chopping, you should slow down the compression and use HD shocks which I just bought.
If the w123 shock were not crimped closed, then Bilstein would have reduced the internals of the shock body by 1.5 inches and cut the shock rod only 1.5 inch. 6.4 - 1.5 would leave 4.9 inches of travel. This would have been the optimum configuration.
I do not anticipate a bottoming out with the HDs but will have to wait after I put them on.
Same with the rear camber kit, we shall see.
01-28-2011, 07:17 PM
#15
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
Does your cd happen to be light blue? Euro headlamps?
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
01-28-2011, 07:57 PM
#16
(01-28-2011, 07:17 PM)dieselboy Does your cd happen to be light blue? Euro headlamps?
No my car white and sitting is in my garage without shocks now and the parts are everywhere. The new bilstein HDs are in a box. You cannot revalve w123 comforts. The wheels are in shipment, paid for and i got a tracking number. the camber kit is at the wheel shop.
The bosch euro lights are in my living room. The oem oil pan protector is in shipment. Looking for a oem skid plate, but i think it will be okay without.
The car is not rolling, so that's not me.
English Bulldog
01-28-2011, 07:57 PM #16(01-28-2011, 07:17 PM)dieselboy Does your cd happen to be light blue? Euro headlamps?
No my car white and sitting is in my garage without shocks now and the parts are everywhere. The new bilstein HDs are in a box. You cannot revalve w123 comforts. The wheels are in shipment, paid for and i got a tracking number. the camber kit is at the wheel shop.
The bosch euro lights are in my living room. The oem oil pan protector is in shipment. Looking for a oem skid plate, but i think it will be okay without.
The car is not rolling, so that's not me.
03-09-2011, 08:43 PM
#17
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
03-09-2011, 08:43 PM #17I want a update on this. Dream suspension. I'd only chop a coil in the back though....
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
07-15-2011, 06:34 PM
#18
(01-22-2011, 09:09 AM)300D50(01-16-2011, 08:46 PM)winmutt U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
Promise you won't blow me in to the feds, and I'd be willing to overlook that.
not to be pushy, but just curious if you ever pursued this? it seems like if someone had the diameters (ID, OD) then you could just have a machine shop cut you a round insert with a offset hole drilled in it?
cars? what cars? WHERE???
randomdude
07-15-2011, 06:34 PM #18(01-22-2011, 09:09 AM)300D50(01-16-2011, 08:46 PM)winmutt U missed the patented part. Still seems like it should be easy enough to make.
Promise you won't blow me in to the feds, and I'd be willing to overlook that.
not to be pushy, but just curious if you ever pursued this? it seems like if someone had the diameters (ID, OD) then you could just have a machine shop cut you a round insert with a offset hole drilled in it?
cars? what cars? WHERE???
Users browsing this thread:
8 Guest(s)
8 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
8 Guest(s)
8 Guest(s)