[split] IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install
[split] IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install
So my latest issue is that I wanted to go to an ALDA on my 1979 240D turbo (2252) project (I've heard the various arguments for / against - but I wanted to at least try it to provide a margin of safety). In doing so I messed something up and the car started running like crap . . . I never really figured out what I did wrong, but eventually I pulled the ALDA back off and the car ran OK again - no ADA or ALDA.
Yesterday, after reading through this thread again, I got the car started and pulled up the bar coming up into the ALDA (which was removed) and the car ran like a rocket ship again (which it did before I messed with changing the ADA to ALDA) . . . however, this morning it wouldn't start.
Now that I had some time I was going back through this thread yet again and saw the post about Biohazard losing the "spring" that mounts underneath the circlip on the bar that goes into the ADA (or ALDA). Well, I don't have one of those springs (not sure if I never did because mine was originally ADA, or if I somehow lost it). Additionally, and probably for that reason, the car has been VERY finicky in starting since I messed up the ALDA modification months ago . . . I think I am flooding it?
Per Forced induction, I can use pliers to pull or push the bar that is actuated by the ADA / ALDA, but what position do I want that in to have the car start? It seems like there is a right position where the car fires right up - but what should that be?
My goal here is to get the car running again and then get the ALDA back on there (with spring?) working the way it was designed to work . . . then I can start going through the tuning process that you guys have thoroughly outlined here. But first thing is first . . .
Thanks again.
Hi All - reaching out for some help / clarification on ADA / ALDA related fuel / starting issue - thanks to all of you on this site - I reference it at least once a week for something I screw up.
So my latest issue is that I wanted to go to an ALDA on my 1979 240D turbo (2252) project (I've heard the various arguments for / against - but I wanted to at least try it to provide a margin of safety). In doing so I messed something up and the car started running like crap . . . I never really figured out what I did wrong, but eventually I pulled the ALDA back off and the car ran OK again - no ADA or ALDA.
Yesterday, after reading through this thread again, I got the car started and pulled up the bar coming up into the ALDA (which was removed) and the car ran like a rocket ship again (which it did before I messed with changing the ADA to ALDA) . . . however, this morning it wouldn't start.
Now that I had some time I was going back through this thread yet again and saw the post about Biohazard losing the "spring" that mounts underneath the circlip on the bar that goes into the ADA (or ALDA). Well, I don't have one of those springs (not sure if I never did because mine was originally ADA, or if I somehow lost it). Additionally, and probably for that reason, the car has been VERY finicky in starting since I messed up the ALDA modification months ago . . . I think I am flooding it?
Per Forced induction, I can use pliers to pull or push the bar that is actuated by the ADA / ALDA, but what position do I want that in to have the car start? It seems like there is a right position where the car fires right up - but what should that be?
My goal here is to get the car running again and then get the ALDA back on there (with spring?) working the way it was designed to work . . . then I can start going through the tuning process that you guys have thoroughly outlined here. But first thing is first . . .
Thanks again.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
A 240d will have an ADA not an ALDA. By default it is is only pulling up. An ALDA starts in a very close to shutoff position. In order to get the pump to start with the ALDA you have get the pump to provide alot more fuel and then put the ALDA on which is going to severly limit the amount of fuel. Make sense?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
So, to get the car to start I need to reduce fuel (push rod that that is actuated by ALDA into IP)?
Additionally, the ALDA, when properly installed on the IP, will pull on the above push rod (presumably applying up pressure on the circlip) to give more fuel (under boost). If this is what should be happening, then I'm 99% sure I'm not installing the part right.
Additionally, there IS NOT a spring that mounts on the push rod coming out of the IP held in place by the circlip that would act as a spring pushing UP on that push rod (this would be the complete opposite force as that applied by the ALDA)? Given your above explanation that makes sense.
Thank you so much for your help.
(01-19-2011, 09:16 AM)winmutt A 240d will have an ADA not an ALDA. By default it is is only pulling up. An ALDA starts in a very close to shutoff position. In order to get the pump to start with the ALDA you have get the pump to provide alot more fuel and then put the ALDA on which is going to severly limit the amount of fuel. Make sense?
Abridging my last post - it would not be the complete opposite force, it would be the same force (a "push" up) . . . which would make what the ALDA was trying to do (a "pull" up) redundant . . .
(01-19-2011, 09:44 AM)m002922 I think I am following what you're saying - and I also think that because I never actually saw an ALDA installed properly on the Injection Pump (IP) - the part was sent to me seperately, I'm pretty certain I am doing it entirely wrong / didn't have a good idea of how this should be.
So, to get the car to start I need to reduce fuel (push rod that that is actuated by ALDA into IP)?
Additionally, the ALDA, when properly installed on the IP, will pull on the above push rod (presumably applying up pressure on the circlip) to give more fuel (under boost). If this is what should be happening, then I'm 99% sure I'm not installing the part right.
Additionally, there IS NOT a spring that mounts on the push rod coming out of the IP held in place by the circlip that would act as a spring pushing UP on that push rod (this would be the complete opposite force as that applied by the ALDA)? Given your above explanation that makes sense.
Thank you so much for your help.
(01-19-2011, 09:16 AM)winmutt A 240d will have an ADA not an ALDA. By default it is is only pulling up. An ALDA starts in a very close to shutoff position. In order to get the pump to start with the ALDA you have get the pump to provide alot more fuel and then put the ALDA on which is going to severly limit the amount of fuel. Make sense?
I think I am following what you're saying - and I also think that because I never actually saw an ALDA installed properly on the Injection Pump (IP) - the part was sent to me seperately, I'm pretty certain I am doing it entirely wrong / didn't have a good idea of how this should be.
So, to get the car to start I need to reduce fuel (push rod that that is actuated by ALDA into IP)?
Additionally, the ALDA, when properly installed on the IP, will pull on the above push rod (presumably applying up pressure on the circlip) to give more fuel (under boost). If this is what should be happening, then I'm 99% sure I'm not installing the part right.
Additionally, there IS NOT a spring that mounts on the push rod coming out of the IP held in place by the circlip that would act as a spring pushing UP on that push rod (this would be the complete opposite force as that applied by the ALDA)? Given your above explanation that makes sense.
Thank you so much for your help.
(01-19-2011, 09:16 AM)winmutt A 240d will have an ADA not an ALDA. By default it is is only pulling up. An ALDA starts in a very close to shutoff position. In order to get the pump to start with the ALDA you have get the pump to provide alot more fuel and then put the ALDA on which is going to severly limit the amount of fuel. Make sense?
Abridging my last post - it would not be the complete opposite force, it would be the same force (a "push" up) . . . which would make what the ALDA was trying to do (a "pull" up) redundant . . .
(01-19-2011, 09:44 AM)m002922 I think I am following what you're saying - and I also think that because I never actually saw an ALDA installed properly on the Injection Pump (IP) - the part was sent to me seperately, I'm pretty certain I am doing it entirely wrong / didn't have a good idea of how this should be.
So, to get the car to start I need to reduce fuel (push rod that that is actuated by ALDA into IP)?
Additionally, the ALDA, when properly installed on the IP, will pull on the above push rod (presumably applying up pressure on the circlip) to give more fuel (under boost). If this is what should be happening, then I'm 99% sure I'm not installing the part right.
Additionally, there IS NOT a spring that mounts on the push rod coming out of the IP held in place by the circlip that would act as a spring pushing UP on that push rod (this would be the complete opposite force as that applied by the ALDA)? Given your above explanation that makes sense.
Thank you so much for your help.
(01-19-2011, 09:16 AM)winmutt A 240d will have an ADA not an ALDA. By default it is is only pulling up. An ALDA starts in a very close to shutoff position. In order to get the pump to start with the ALDA you have get the pump to provide alot more fuel and then put the ALDA on which is going to severly limit the amount of fuel. Make sense?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
It does not pull it up, that rod should push up on its own. The ALDA pushes down on it with engine off. As manifold pressure builds the ALDA allows the rod to lift up allowing for more fuel. In order to get the ALDA to work on a 240 MW pump the pump must be tweaked to give much more fuel by default so that the ALDA creates a near original idle quantity.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
In reading through all the posts on this I see I have some serious Injection Pump tuning time in front of me . . . oh well, should be fun.
(01-19-2011, 09:54 AM)winmutt It does not pull it up, that rod should push up on its own. The ALDA pushes down on it with engine off. As manifold pressure builds the ALDA allows the rod to lift up allowing for more fuel. In order to get the ALDA to work on a 240 MW pump the pump must be tweaked to give much more fuel by default so that the ALDA creates a near original idle quantity.
OK - that is more in line with what I originally thought - and also explains the finicky starting issue.
In reading through all the posts on this I see I have some serious Injection Pump tuning time in front of me . . . oh well, should be fun.
(01-19-2011, 09:54 AM)winmutt It does not pull it up, that rod should push up on its own. The ALDA pushes down on it with engine off. As manifold pressure builds the ALDA allows the rod to lift up allowing for more fuel. In order to get the ALDA to work on a 240 MW pump the pump must be tweaked to give much more fuel by default so that the ALDA creates a near original idle quantity.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but, there is suppose to be a spring between the c-clip and the cover that puts upward tension on the pin. I have an exploded view of the governor that shows the spring, and has the part number for it I think, but I will have to do some looking to find it. I’ll look through my IP manual and see if there is a good picture of it.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
I defer to everyone on this - I have a factory 240D set of manuals - but nothing that covers the injection pump in that kind of depth. It is very possible that I lost the spring in disassembly and just don't remember it (I often go long stretches between wrench sessions) - this car has only had two owners (me + one) - so if there is an error, its probably mine.
Any recommendations on where to get the part?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
(01-19-2011, 12:38 PM)OM616 I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but, there is suppose to be a spring between the c-clip and the cover that puts upward tension on the pin. I have an exploded view of the governor that shows the spring, and has the part number for it I think, but I will have to do some looking to find it. I’ll look through my IP manual and see if there is a good picture of it.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
Coincidentally, I went back to the car this afternoon and pushed the rod actuated by the ALDA back down to full closed and the car started right up (albeit roughly) . . . so if anyone else is in this position, be very careful of flooding with the ALDA rod (anyone know the specific name?) in the full up position. Once its running the car will run fairly well like that, but mine won't start like that.
(01-19-2011, 02:22 PM)m002922 OM616,
I defer to everyone on this - I have a factory 240D set of manuals - but nothing that covers the injection pump in that kind of depth. It is very possible that I lost the spring in disassembly and just don't remember it (I often go long stretches between wrench sessions) - this car has only had two owners (me + one) - so if there is an error, its probably mine.
Any recommendations on where to get the part?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
(01-19-2011, 12:38 PM)OM616 I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but, there is suppose to be a spring between the c-clip and the cover that puts upward tension on the pin. I have an exploded view of the governor that shows the spring, and has the part number for it I think, but I will have to do some looking to find it. I’ll look through my IP manual and see if there is a good picture of it.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
OM616,
I defer to everyone on this - I have a factory 240D set of manuals - but nothing that covers the injection pump in that kind of depth. It is very possible that I lost the spring in disassembly and just don't remember it (I often go long stretches between wrench sessions) - this car has only had two owners (me + one) - so if there is an error, its probably mine.
Any recommendations on where to get the part?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
(01-19-2011, 12:38 PM)OM616 I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but, there is suppose to be a spring between the c-clip and the cover that puts upward tension on the pin. I have an exploded view of the governor that shows the spring, and has the part number for it I think, but I will have to do some looking to find it. I’ll look through my IP manual and see if there is a good picture of it.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
Coincidentally, I went back to the car this afternoon and pushed the rod actuated by the ALDA back down to full closed and the car started right up (albeit roughly) . . . so if anyone else is in this position, be very careful of flooding with the ALDA rod (anyone know the specific name?) in the full up position. Once its running the car will run fairly well like that, but mine won't start like that.
(01-19-2011, 02:22 PM)m002922 OM616,
I defer to everyone on this - I have a factory 240D set of manuals - but nothing that covers the injection pump in that kind of depth. It is very possible that I lost the spring in disassembly and just don't remember it (I often go long stretches between wrench sessions) - this car has only had two owners (me + one) - so if there is an error, its probably mine.
Any recommendations on where to get the part?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
(01-19-2011, 12:38 PM)OM616 I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but, there is suppose to be a spring between the c-clip and the cover that puts upward tension on the pin. I have an exploded view of the governor that shows the spring, and has the part number for it I think, but I will have to do some looking to find it. I’ll look through my IP manual and see if there is a good picture of it.
Both the ADA (NA) and ALDA (Turbo), capsules retract, or collapse, as either barometric (ADA) or manifold (ALDA), pressure increases. As the capsule collapse, the spring under the c-clip pushes the rod up, increasing the throttle actuation ratio inside the governor (increasing fuel), and as barometric (ADA) or Manifold (ALDA) pressure decreases, the capsules expand, overcome the spring, and push the rod down, reducing the throttle actuation ratio (reducing fuel).
If there is not a spring under the c-clip to hold the rod up, the rod will float around, favoring the lower throttle actuation ratios. If the rod is close to bottomed out the throttle actuation ratio will be very low, so when you press the gas pedal as you start the engine, the rack will move very little, making the engine hard to start. If you lift the rod, the throttle actuation ratio will be increased, and the rack will move farther with the same throttle position, (more fuel will make it easer to start the engine).
Sounds like you are not the first person to tinker with that IP.
I’ll try to get a good picture of the diagram and perhaps a part number for the spring. It is a bugger to get the clip on with the spring. If the clip pops off during instillation the spring will fly off as well.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
I converted my 78 to pencil plugs and am sorry I did not do it sooner. I a removed my ADA several years ago now.
I did a quick search for the exploded view, all I can find is a very fuzzy print out, I’ll look more tonight. Perhaps someone can look at EPIC I think it is? and get the part number.
You could also contact a Bosch repair center and have them order one, or two
The loop style glow plugs are real touchy about fuel at start up, depending on your start procedure, (throttle input), the rod position can cause you to unintentionally flood out the glow plugs.
I converted my 78 to pencil plugs and am sorry I did not do it sooner. I a removed my ADA several years ago now.
I did a quick search for the exploded view, all I can find is a very fuzzy print out, I’ll look more tonight. Perhaps someone can look at EPIC I think it is? and get the part number.
You could also contact a Bosch repair center and have them order one, or two
If anyone has any rough dimensions on the spring, I imagine I could get something somewhat serviceable here . . .
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#c...gs/=anveyl
I just called a Bosch Service Center here in Arlington . . . they were trying to help, but I don't even think their system went back to my year. They said they would call back - we'll see what they come up with.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
I believe I was upgraded to to pencil plugs a few years ago when mine went bad . . . yep, just checked, I do have the pencil type (and I agree, they are definitely worth the change).
If anyone has any rough dimensions on the spring, I imagine I could get something somewhat serviceable here . . .
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#c...gs/=anveyl
I just called a Bosch Service Center here in Arlington . . . they were trying to help, but I don't even think their system went back to my year. They said they would call back - we'll see what they come up with.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
I went back and looked at my IP today, and it turns out that the spring WAS NOT missing from the shaft after all (yep, I'm an idiot) - it is just fairly difficult to see, and since the shaft was not "returning" to the up position the way I "assumed" it would with the spring in place . . . well, there you go. So this time before I put the ALDA back on I pulled the rod all the way up into the up position (like I said, the spring was not returning it to this position naturally) and then replaced the ALDA.
I took the car for a spin and it is running awesome, and no smoke at idle - I'll have to have someone behind me give the report at some point in the future.
If this holds and the car is consistently start-able / drive-able then I guess I will start looking at making some IP adjustments to get more fuel. Right now I'm topping out at about 800 degrees under load and about 10psi of boost . . . so I've got a margin of safety to add some more fuel if my injection pump is up to it.
As soon as I get my air cleaner situation sorted out I will post some pictures of the "final" 240D turbo with the new ProVent that seems to be working awesome . . . but right now I have a K&N on the intake and not enough spare self-esteem to handle the abuse. However, everyone will be happy to know that my brother was talking about getting K&Ns for his 1999 E55 AMG (which he got low mileage for a pretty good deal) and I think I talked him out of it courtesy of this message board.
Thanks again to everyone for all their help.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
I think I have the problem solved, but will chronicle this here for anyone going down a similar path of converting their 240D to a turbo and deciding to go the ALDA route . . .
I went back and looked at my IP today, and it turns out that the spring WAS NOT missing from the shaft after all (yep, I'm an idiot) - it is just fairly difficult to see, and since the shaft was not "returning" to the up position the way I "assumed" it would with the spring in place . . . well, there you go. So this time before I put the ALDA back on I pulled the rod all the way up into the up position (like I said, the spring was not returning it to this position naturally) and then replaced the ALDA.
I took the car for a spin and it is running awesome, and no smoke at idle - I'll have to have someone behind me give the report at some point in the future.
If this holds and the car is consistently start-able / drive-able then I guess I will start looking at making some IP adjustments to get more fuel. Right now I'm topping out at about 800 degrees under load and about 10psi of boost . . . so I've got a margin of safety to add some more fuel if my injection pump is up to it.
As soon as I get my air cleaner situation sorted out I will post some pictures of the "final" 240D turbo with the new ProVent that seems to be working awesome . . . but right now I have a K&N on the intake and not enough spare self-esteem to handle the abuse. However, everyone will be happy to know that my brother was talking about getting K&Ns for his 1999 E55 AMG (which he got low mileage for a pretty good deal) and I think I talked him out of it courtesy of this message board.
Thanks again to everyone for all their help.
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
The spring is the only thing that moves the rod up as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. If spring will is not capable of pushing the rod up on its own, then you are not getting any increase in fuel as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. In a nut shell, you are not getting the benefits of the ALDA.
One thought is that the ADA the car came with does not move the rod much or very often unless you are driving through the mountains often, and as such, the shaft and the bushing may have gummed up, causing too much drag for the spring to push the rod back on its own.
I am interested to see your setup. Any idea of the MPG?
As long as you are happy with how it runs,...cool. But if you are saying that if you push the rod down and it does not come ALL THE WAY BACK UP on its own, as in, you have to grab it with pliers and pull it back up, then you have a problem that is causing the rod to not move freely. The spring is plenty strong to pull the rod back up, and should do so freely.
The spring is the only thing that moves the rod up as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. If spring will is not capable of pushing the rod up on its own, then you are not getting any increase in fuel as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. In a nut shell, you are not getting the benefits of the ALDA.
One thought is that the ADA the car came with does not move the rod much or very often unless you are driving through the mountains often, and as such, the shaft and the bushing may have gummed up, causing too much drag for the spring to push the rod back on its own.
I am interested to see your setup. Any idea of the MPG?
For MPG I see about 23 . . . but I do nothing but city, and because I've spent the last 6 months messing around with this or that, and the turbo is still fairly new to me, I am often driving the car like I stole it, and often on very, very short trips (I rarely drive more than 5 miles - I do let it warm up before I do that, however).
I can tell you that the performance with the 2252 Turbo is night and day (and its not even tuned right as far as fuel delivery). With the small 2252 I get boost early and see over 10psi as I wind the engine out - its actually kind of fun to drive. My girlfriends comment was something to the effect of "wow, you can actually keep up with traffic now . . . "
My plan is to post some pictures and a very detailed writeup in the next couple of months. Its taken me almost 2 years to get to this point between gathering the parts and having time to turn wrenches. My favorite part was when I had the turbo on the car and realized that the 1979 240D throttle linkage would not work with turbo exhaust manifold . . . so then I had to get a throttle actuation assembly from a later model car. Never saw that coming.
If anyone out there is planning on trying a 240D turbo feel free to PM me and I can give you the information that I have and point you to all the people that really helped me . . . all I did was steal ideas from other people.
(01-20-2011, 05:26 PM)OM616 As long as you are happy with how it runs,...cool. But if you are saying that if you push the rod down and it does not come ALL THE WAY BACK UP on its own, as in, you have to grab it with pliers and pull it back up, then you have a problem that is causing the rod to not move freely. The spring is plenty strong to pull the rod back up, and should do so freely.
The spring is the only thing that moves the rod up as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. If spring will is not capable of pushing the rod up on its own, then you are not getting any increase in fuel as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. In a nut shell, you are not getting the benefits of the ALDA.
One thought is that the ADA the car came with does not move the rod much or very often unless you are driving through the mountains often, and as such, the shaft and the bushing may have gummed up, causing too much drag for the spring to push the rod back on its own.
I am interested to see your setup. Any idea of the MPG?
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
OM616 - my car has lived its entire 31 years at sea level (it spent the first 25 in Seattle - I drove it cross country a couple years after I bought it to MD / VA) - so I don't think that rod has probably budged in its life. I plan on doing some investigation to see if I can fix whatever is restricting it, because, as you said - right now I'm not getting any benefit of the ALDA setup.
For MPG I see about 23 . . . but I do nothing but city, and because I've spent the last 6 months messing around with this or that, and the turbo is still fairly new to me, I am often driving the car like I stole it, and often on very, very short trips (I rarely drive more than 5 miles - I do let it warm up before I do that, however).
I can tell you that the performance with the 2252 Turbo is night and day (and its not even tuned right as far as fuel delivery). With the small 2252 I get boost early and see over 10psi as I wind the engine out - its actually kind of fun to drive. My girlfriends comment was something to the effect of "wow, you can actually keep up with traffic now . . . "
My plan is to post some pictures and a very detailed writeup in the next couple of months. Its taken me almost 2 years to get to this point between gathering the parts and having time to turn wrenches. My favorite part was when I had the turbo on the car and realized that the 1979 240D throttle linkage would not work with turbo exhaust manifold . . . so then I had to get a throttle actuation assembly from a later model car. Never saw that coming.
If anyone out there is planning on trying a 240D turbo feel free to PM me and I can give you the information that I have and point you to all the people that really helped me . . . all I did was steal ideas from other people.
(01-20-2011, 05:26 PM)OM616 As long as you are happy with how it runs,...cool. But if you are saying that if you push the rod down and it does not come ALL THE WAY BACK UP on its own, as in, you have to grab it with pliers and pull it back up, then you have a problem that is causing the rod to not move freely. The spring is plenty strong to pull the rod back up, and should do so freely.
The spring is the only thing that moves the rod up as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. If spring will is not capable of pushing the rod up on its own, then you are not getting any increase in fuel as the ALDA capsules contract as boost increases. In a nut shell, you are not getting the benefits of the ALDA.
One thought is that the ADA the car came with does not move the rod much or very often unless you are driving through the mountains often, and as such, the shaft and the bushing may have gummed up, causing too much drag for the spring to push the rod back on its own.
I am interested to see your setup. Any idea of the MPG?
1979 240D, GT2252 (non-intercooled).
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