Garrett GT35
Garrett GT35
01-21-2011, 04:03 PM
#1
Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
Can I do it to the exhaust housing to??
The oil tap on need to point down or is it ok if it´s to the site?
I need to fit external wastgate, how is best to do that, picks would be grate. I have European 6cyl exhaust manifold.
Thank you for your help guys.
Regards
Atli
Hi.
Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
Can I do it to the exhaust housing to??
The oil tap on need to point down or is it ok if it´s to the site?
I need to fit external wastgate, how is best to do that, picks would be grate. I have European 6cyl exhaust manifold.
Thank you for your help guys.
Regards
Atli
01-21-2011, 04:08 PM
#2
(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
-Tyler
1984 Volvo 760GLE Turbo Diesel D24T/M46
1986 Isuzu Trooper Turbo Diesel
No mercedes (for now)
(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
-Tyler
1984 Volvo 760GLE Turbo Diesel D24T/M46
1986 Isuzu Trooper Turbo Diesel
No mercedes (for now)
01-21-2011, 05:03 PM
#3
(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
01-21-2011, 06:31 PM
#5
"Up to 15degrees of angle is tolerated for the oil line drop...."
So the oil outlet can only be maximum 15 degrees from facing straight down??
Is it te same for ball bearing and regular turbine?
the oil outlet is pointing in the exactly the same direction as the manifold flange. Do you know in how many degrees the engine is tilted?
Regards
Atli
"Up to 15degrees of angle is tolerated for the oil line drop...."
So the oil outlet can only be maximum 15 degrees from facing straight down??
Is it te same for ball bearing and regular turbine?
the oil outlet is pointing in the exactly the same direction as the manifold flange. Do you know in how many degrees the engine is tilted?
Regards
Atli
01-22-2011, 06:42 AM
#6
(01-21-2011, 05:03 PM)anjay(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
Hi Anjay.
I found this on the internet, seams that I can rotate bout housings.
http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/...807825.pdf
" Re-clocking (rotating the housings to line up) is required to align compressor/center housing, and turbine housing. Loosen bolts on
outside turbo (6 bolts on the compressor, and 6 on the turbine). Rotate center section until brass drain fitting hits the uppipe flange.
Rotate drain fitting roughly .25” away from flange. If rotated too far away, oil will pool in turbo and cause oil consumption"
I have GT3582R so this will work for me.
Regards
Atli
(01-21-2011, 05:03 PM)anjay(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv(01-21-2011, 04:03 PM)Atli Can I loosen the 6 bolts that hold the compressor housing and turn it so I can point the output in other direction? This does not fuck up the balance?
I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
Hi Anjay.
I found this on the internet, seams that I can rotate bout housings.
http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/...807825.pdf
" Re-clocking (rotating the housings to line up) is required to align compressor/center housing, and turbine housing. Loosen bolts on
outside turbo (6 bolts on the compressor, and 6 on the turbine). Rotate center section until brass drain fitting hits the uppipe flange.
Rotate drain fitting roughly .25” away from flange. If rotated too far away, oil will pool in turbo and cause oil consumption"
I have GT3582R so this will work for me.
Regards
Atli
01-24-2011, 10:53 AM
#7
(01-22-2011, 06:42 AM)AtliMy turbo is GT3571kKLNV so it is diffrent. On mine I can't clock exhaust housing. I am still working on nozzle controller.(01-21-2011, 05:03 PM)anjay(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
Hi Anjay.
I found this on the internet, seams that I can rotate bout housings.
http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/...807825.pdf
" Re-clocking (rotating the housings to line up) is required to align compressor/center housing, and turbine housing. Loosen bolts on
outside turbo (6 bolts on the compressor, and 6 on the turbine). Rotate center section until brass drain fitting hits the uppipe flange.
Rotate drain fitting roughly .25” away from flange. If rotated too far away, oil will pool in turbo and cause oil consumption"
I have GT3582R so this will work for me.
Regards
Atli
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
(01-22-2011, 06:42 AM)AtliMy turbo is GT3571kKLNV so it is diffrent. On mine I can't clock exhaust housing. I am still working on nozzle controller.(01-21-2011, 05:03 PM)anjay(01-21-2011, 04:08 PM)casioqv I'm not familiar with your specific turbo, but on any turbo you can re-clock the turbine and compressor housings without affecting balance. Only moving parts need to be balanced (to themselves).
Usually the difficulty with re-clocking comes if your wastegate actuator is mounted on the compressor housing, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
I have same turbo and I faced same qustions. You can clock compressor side(air) to any direction. Word of cation: while turning the housing be aware that is sealed by an oring which could be easly damged - it is very thin and it would hard to replace it.
Exhaust side is not clockable period ( without machining but even then I am not sure for thye end resault).
If come to oil feed - as is with center cartridge attached to exhaust side in original position and bolting it to vertical face of exhaust manifold-
is going to be tilted towards engine about 5-7 deg. my estimate. It is not ideal but will have to live with it and hope that is not critical for adequote lubrication and cooling. As long oil drain is not obstructed it should be fine.
It would be possible to make an wedge shape adapter to be bolted in between turbo and manifold. It is fizzable but space is very tight. What I have done: I bolted to the face of manifold with plate adapter to overcome the 90 deg. missaligment of exhaust manifold /turbo opening.
At this point I am working on nozzle controller(mechanical for now).
So far while testing I found that fully close vane will stall engine while reving up. I hope that answers your question so far.
Hi Anjay.
I found this on the internet, seams that I can rotate bout housings.
http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/...807825.pdf
" Re-clocking (rotating the housings to line up) is required to align compressor/center housing, and turbine housing. Loosen bolts on
outside turbo (6 bolts on the compressor, and 6 on the turbine). Rotate center section until brass drain fitting hits the uppipe flange.
Rotate drain fitting roughly .25” away from flange. If rotated too far away, oil will pool in turbo and cause oil consumption"
I have GT3582R so this will work for me.
Regards
Atli
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
01-26-2011, 06:32 PM
#8
tunning will improve performance.
Anjay
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I drove car today for first time with new turbo. Its start to build pressure below 1500 rpm. By about 2200 rpm it gets to 10 psi and levels out. I got wastegate pot for nozzle control and at present configuration is openning to soon to build higher pressure. I am not looking for anything higher than stock boost. My pump is stock and only adjustment done is a twick on ALDA. I do not want overstress my # 14 head. But so far I am pleased that turbo is working and hopefully with a little bit of
tunning will improve performance.
Anjay
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
01-28-2011, 10:18 PM
#11
Winmatt, I am looking forward to some form of electronic control and with bated breath I am following the other thread.
I am hoping it will be easy enough for marine engineer to follow and build.
Francly I am suprised how well this turbo is spooling once off idle. I am having great hope to have fun with it once proper control is applied and match to the engine.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
Yes, it is from Hino, er.. ebay. And yes it is VNT. I got it complete with nozzle controller which looks intact to me. Being impatient and not wanting to waste any time I macgavered it with boost pressure controller for now. When I first started engine exhaust gases where forcing nozzle to close and engine was stalling. That indicates to me it could be used as engine brake and probably it was in original installation.
Winmatt, I am looking forward to some form of electronic control and with bated breath I am following the other thread.
I am hoping it will be easy enough for marine engineer to follow and build.
Francly I am suprised how well this turbo is spooling once off idle. I am having great hope to have fun with it once proper control is applied and match to the engine.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
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