Re: A/W IC install
Re: A/W IC install
1) Buy a extra manifold and have it modified by cutting off the EGR fitting and having a 2" or larger aluminum barb fitting TIG welded on. (Photos 1 and 2 credited to Brandon314159)
2) Clock the turbo. Loosen the 6 bolts on the back side of the compressor and remove the nuts that hold the manifolds to the head. Separate the turbo compressor from the intake and rotate the compressor housing so that the outlet is pointing vertically
For this installation I used an "XSPOWER" Aluminum air/water intercooler (from ebay), modified intake manifold, motorcycle radiator (early 80s Honda Goldwing), and Mercedes Aux. water pump wired to a relay to turn on when the key is in the "run" position.
1) Buy a extra manifold and have it modified by cutting off the EGR fitting and having a 2" or larger aluminum barb fitting TIG welded on. (Photos 1 and 2 credited to Brandon314159)
2) Clock the turbo. Loosen the 6 bolts on the back side of the compressor and remove the nuts that hold the manifolds to the head. Separate the turbo compressor from the intake and rotate the compressor housing so that the outlet is pointing vertically
4) Install the modified Intake manifold. This is a good time to replace the manifold gasket if it is old.
5) Install the Intercooler. I made some custom brackets to mount the intercooler inlet at a 90* angle to the clocked compressor outlet.
6) Connect Intercooler to compressor outlet and modified intake manifold using silicone boots, clamps and tubing as necessary. Note: the O.D. of the stock T3 turbo compressor outlet is 2 1/16"
3) Remove the stock intake manifold.
4) Install the modified Intake manifold. This is a good time to replace the manifold gasket if it is old.
5) Install the Intercooler. I made some custom brackets to mount the intercooler inlet at a 90* angle to the clocked compressor outlet.
6) Connect Intercooler to compressor outlet and modified intake manifold using silicone boots, clamps and tubing as necessary. Note: the O.D. of the stock T3 turbo compressor outlet is 2 1/16"
8) Hook up the water lines to the IC, radiator and water pump. You will want to hook the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the lower fitting on the intercooler.
9) Wire up the relay for the water pump. The black and purple wire for the windshield wipers is a good place to attach the relay trigger wire.
10) Fill the cooling system for the Intercooler with the same coolant as the engine. Tilt the intercooler if necessary to remove all of the air from inside.
11) Start it up, check for leaks and go for a drive!
7) Install the radiator in front of the engine radiator. You will need to remove the AC condenser.
8) Hook up the water lines to the IC, radiator and water pump. You will want to hook the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the lower fitting on the intercooler.
9) Wire up the relay for the water pump. The black and purple wire for the windshield wipers is a good place to attach the relay trigger wire.
10) Fill the cooling system for the Intercooler with the same coolant as the engine. Tilt the intercooler if necessary to remove all of the air from inside.
11) Start it up, check for leaks and go for a drive!
How about EGT's? The drop in IAT's has a pretty significant effect on dropping the EGT's as well. Every setup will vary, of course.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
03-31-2008, 03:08 PM #4Are you monitoring IAT's (intake air temperature) at all?
How about EGT's? The drop in IAT's has a pretty significant effect on dropping the EGT's as well. Every setup will vary, of course.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
That's cool 8-)
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@
Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Telecommbrkr
03-31-2008, 07:42 PM #6...3-400 degrees.
That's cool 8-)
'Jurgen' - 1982 300sd cream paint with palimino MB tex interior. Now running with new cooling system
.......discovered oil cooler has pinhole @#$%@ Nitrile gloves back on......'Otto' - 1985 300sd anthracite? grey/silver? with grey leather interior. (heated front seats!!!!
) Euro headlightsMods are in the works...
Now you can add more fuel to warm things up again. :twisted:
What kind of EGT's are you seeing now cruising and on a hard pull? (I'm assuming your thermocouple is installed on the exhaust manifold, before the turbine inlet...)
These are some pre-turbo EGT's numbers I like to live by and preach about regarding TDIs and Cummins...
300°F - maximum slow idle temp before shutting engine down
1250°F - maximum sustained temp for periods longer than a minute or two...use good judgement when you're running at this temp for longer than a few minutes...try to figure out WHY you're starting to run 'hot' and make adjustments if necessary.
1500°F - maximum temp for short blasts to 60mph or 1/4-mile runs, back off the soot pedal if you see these temps for more than 15-20 seconds.
Cummins B-series engines are good to about 50psi of boost on the OEM headgasket and head bolts.
The TDI guys start to freak out the minute they see 20psi - my old TDI routinely saw peaks of around 38psi and I didn't see any signs of trouble...but you have to know how to drive and maintain things in order to not do any damage.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
04-01-2008, 10:20 AM #7Dropping 3-400°F is awesome! Nice work!
Now you can add more fuel to warm things up again. :twisted:
What kind of EGT's are you seeing now cruising and on a hard pull? (I'm assuming your thermocouple is installed on the exhaust manifold, before the turbine inlet...)
These are some pre-turbo EGT's numbers I like to live by and preach about regarding TDIs and Cummins...
300°F - maximum slow idle temp before shutting engine down
1250°F - maximum sustained temp for periods longer than a minute or two...use good judgement when you're running at this temp for longer than a few minutes...try to figure out WHY you're starting to run 'hot' and make adjustments if necessary.
1500°F - maximum temp for short blasts to 60mph or 1/4-mile runs, back off the soot pedal if you see these temps for more than 15-20 seconds.
Cummins B-series engines are good to about 50psi of boost on the OEM headgasket and head bolts.
The TDI guys start to freak out the minute they see 20psi - my old TDI routinely saw peaks of around 38psi and I didn't see any signs of trouble...but you have to know how to drive and maintain things in order to not do any damage.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
Cranking up the fuel is next, I just got sidetracked on some rust repair. :|
I have a tough time reaching 900* on a long full load pull with the intercooler
Yes, my thermocouple is just before the turbine inlet. You can see some pictures in my pyrometer how to here: <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://superturbodiesel.com/std/topic12.html">topic12.html</a><!-- l -->
Cranking up the fuel is next, I just got sidetracked on some rust repair. :|
I have a tough time reaching 900* on a long full load pull with the intercooler
I've installed probably 30 thermocouples over the years - never really had an install go wrong - knock on cast iron. :geek:
(I have had a few thermocouples and signal amplifiers go bad, though.)
Well done! - 900°F at the turbine inlet on a good pull means you've got quite a bit of room for expansion.
Cheers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
04-01-2008, 03:26 PM #9Excellent - that's just awesome! I love reading about cheap/easy improvements made to cars/engines that the OEMs didn't bother with that have great results. Implementing these improvements on my own vehicles? - pure bliss. 8-)
I've installed probably 30 thermocouples over the years - never really had an install go wrong - knock on cast iron. :geek:
(I have had a few thermocouples and signal amplifiers go bad, though.)
Well done! - 900°F at the turbine inlet on a good pull means you've got quite a bit of room for expansion.
Cheers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
I REAAAAALY like the integrated manifold / awic they have on that Finn superturbo. That shit is hot.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Ah ok, I didnt see the filter under the AW/IC.
I REAAAAALY like the integrated manifold / awic they have on that Finn superturbo. That shit is hot.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
ForcedInduction
09-14-2008, 10:19 AM
#13
Speaking of hot, what kind of intercooler water temperatures are you getting in and out of the cooler?
(03-05-2009, 12:58 AM)bgkast Intercooler is still working well.
Thanks for fixing the pics! Have you had a chance to turn up the fuel yet?
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(03-05-2009, 12:58 AM)bgkast Intercooler is still working well.
Thanks for fixing the pics! Have you had a chance to turn up the fuel yet?
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
3 Guest(s)
3 Guest(s)