Lost turbo in 81 SD, any reccomendations for replacement?
Lost turbo in 81 SD, any reccomendations for replacement?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Since I have to upgrade, I am also pullinf the injectors and replacing the nozzles with 265's. 310,000 miles on bosch nozzles and the result is very annoying combustion knock. I have also dialed in the ALDA and the motor and transmission are running very good and strong.
Any help on this dastardly issue would be very appreciated!
Feel Free to call email or PM.
Ian White
CVM Machine
Chehalis, Washington
360 520 3013
ianwhite@quik.com
As the title said I lost the turbo in my 300SD. It is the stock Air Research (garrett). I was driving and it all the sudden started howling like heck so I pulled over and I knew it had to be the bearings between the intake and exhaust housings. Well I was right the intake shaft has approx. .100 of play (it wiggles all over). Any suggestions to what would work well and fit in with moderate amount of modifications. The mods aren't and issue, I own a fab/machine shop so I have the skill to modify. Since this happened I'm thinking about getting a Variable Vein (geometry) turbocharger. I found this one on seattle craigs list.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Since I have to upgrade, I am also pullinf the injectors and replacing the nozzles with 265's. 310,000 miles on bosch nozzles and the result is very annoying combustion knock. I have also dialed in the ALDA and the motor and transmission are running very good and strong.
Any help on this dastardly issue would be very appreciated!
Feel Free to call email or PM.
Ian White
CVM Machine
Chehalis, Washington
360 520 3013
ianwhite@quik.com
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
Holy giant out of focus picture batman! I switched to a AiResearch TB03 from a Volvo 740i and haven't ever looked back. Faster spool, water cooled, and external wastegate. However, if you're handy with fabrication skills, a holset VGT is the holy grail.
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
(03-12-2009, 12:34 PM)Ian White Any suggestions to what would workThe very first thing to do is find out WHY the turbo died. They don't just run merrily along for 28 years then suddenly decide to commit suicide, there has to be a cause behind a sudden failure. Low oil pressure/flow, incorrect/dirty oil, overspeed, broken wastegate hose, high exhaust temperatures, restricted intake, debris damage from poor filtration, driver abuse (frequent sudden hot shutdowns), etc.
Quote:The mods aren't and issue, I own a fab/machine shop so I have the skill to modify. Since this happened I'm thinking about getting a Variable Vein (geometry) turbocharger. I found this one on seattle craigs list.Mounting the turbo is easy, controlling it is hard. Electronic ones like that are difficult to convert to mechanical control and even harder to control with electronics.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Also, never buy a turbo off the internet unless they show a picture of the compressor wheel of the turbo itself you are buying (not a generic example turbo). Applications like a Sprinter in a commercial vehicle are VERY abusive to the engine. The turbo is likely to be worn out, have wheel damage, vane damage or leaking shaft seals. I got my turbo off a Sprinter that was rolled and parted out.
Good luck.
ForcedInduction
03-12-2009, 02:37 PM
#3
(03-12-2009, 12:34 PM)Ian White Any suggestions to what would workThe very first thing to do is find out WHY the turbo died. They don't just run merrily along for 28 years then suddenly decide to commit suicide, there has to be a cause behind a sudden failure. Low oil pressure/flow, incorrect/dirty oil, overspeed, broken wastegate hose, high exhaust temperatures, restricted intake, debris damage from poor filtration, driver abuse (frequent sudden hot shutdowns), etc.
Quote:The mods aren't and issue, I own a fab/machine shop so I have the skill to modify. Since this happened I'm thinking about getting a Variable Vein (geometry) turbocharger. I found this one on seattle craigs list.Mounting the turbo is easy, controlling it is hard. Electronic ones like that are difficult to convert to mechanical control and even harder to control with electronics.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Also, never buy a turbo off the internet unless they show a picture of the compressor wheel of the turbo itself you are buying (not a generic example turbo). Applications like a Sprinter in a commercial vehicle are VERY abusive to the engine. The turbo is likely to be worn out, have wheel damage, vane damage or leaking shaft seals. I got my turbo off a Sprinter that was rolled and parted out.
Good luck.
One other question, is there any Variable Geometry Turbocharger that is controlled manually with a adjstable wastegate? I could even use something non VGT but, I'm looking for better throttle responce and better driveability.
Any suggestions?
THANKS
(03-12-2009, 02:37 PM)ForcedInduction(03-12-2009, 12:34 PM)Ian White Any suggestions to what would workThe very first thing to do is find out WHY the turbo died. They don't just run merrily along for 28 years then suddenly decide to commit suicide, there has to be a cause behind a sudden failure. Low oil pressure/flow, incorrect/dirty oil, overspeed, broken wastegate hose, high exhaust temperatures, restricted intake, debris damage from poor filtration, driver abuse (frequent sudden hot shutdowns), etc.
Quote:The mods aren't and issue, I own a fab/machine shop so I have the skill to modify. Since this happened I'm thinking about getting a Variable Vein (geometry) turbocharger. I found this one on seattle craigs list.Mounting the turbo is easy, controlling it is hard. Electronic ones like that are difficult to convert to mechanical control and even harder to control with electronics.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Also, never buy a turbo off the internet unless they show a picture of the compressor wheel of the turbo itself you are buying (not a generic example turbo). Applications like a Sprinter in a commercial vehicle are VERY abusive to the engine. The turbo is likely to be worn out, have wheel damage, vane damage or leaking shaft seals. I got my turbo off a Sprinter that was rolled and parted out.
Good luck.
The turbo failed because the wastegate hose developed cracks and "rotted" off resulting in over boost. I have the old turbo off and everything pulled down. Injectors are getting new nozzles, and I am doing tons of mods and updates to things. I guess the turbo failing is bittersweet because its forcing me to do the things i have been putting off.
One other question, is there any Variable Geometry Turbocharger that is controlled manually with a adjstable wastegate? I could even use something non VGT but, I'm looking for better throttle responce and better driveability.
Any suggestions?
THANKS
(03-12-2009, 02:37 PM)ForcedInduction(03-12-2009, 12:34 PM)Ian White Any suggestions to what would workThe very first thing to do is find out WHY the turbo died. They don't just run merrily along for 28 years then suddenly decide to commit suicide, there has to be a cause behind a sudden failure. Low oil pressure/flow, incorrect/dirty oil, overspeed, broken wastegate hose, high exhaust temperatures, restricted intake, debris damage from poor filtration, driver abuse (frequent sudden hot shutdowns), etc.
Quote:The mods aren't and issue, I own a fab/machine shop so I have the skill to modify. Since this happened I'm thinking about getting a Variable Vein (geometry) turbocharger. I found this one on seattle craigs list.Mounting the turbo is easy, controlling it is hard. Electronic ones like that are difficult to convert to mechanical control and even harder to control with electronics.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1064567753.html
Also, never buy a turbo off the internet unless they show a picture of the compressor wheel of the turbo itself you are buying (not a generic example turbo). Applications like a Sprinter in a commercial vehicle are VERY abusive to the engine. The turbo is likely to be worn out, have wheel damage, vane damage or leaking shaft seals. I got my turbo off a Sprinter that was rolled and parted out.
Good luck.
(03-21-2009, 01:16 AM)Ian White ANYONE!?
The boys here are better suited to chime in, but what I know....
You can get a readily available Garrett GT2056v, Garret GT2256v, or maybe the Holset HE431VTi and modify it with a wastegate actuator.
Read up here.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/gt20...t-146.html
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/sh...p?t=229096
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/hols...-t-83.html
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-21-2009, 07:55 AM #7(03-21-2009, 01:16 AM)Ian White ANYONE!?
The boys here are better suited to chime in, but what I know....
You can get a readily available Garrett GT2056v, Garret GT2256v, or maybe the Holset HE431VTi and modify it with a wastegate actuator.
Read up here.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/gt20...t-146.html
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/sh...p?t=229096
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/hols...-t-83.html
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
GREASY_BEAST
03-21-2009, 09:43 AM #8The Holset HX-30 is a wonderful replacement turbo if you want to keep it simple. You need longer studs in the exhaust manifold (avail. from autozone), a 3/8" spacer to make the compressor housing clear the exhaust manifold, a couple oil fittings, and some monkeying with the drain to make it work. You will probably have to weld a nipple on the intake manifold and use a silicone boot of some sort to hook it up, but maybe something can be done with the stock configuration. The turbo seems waaay more efficient than the stock turbo, and I can get about 4psi boost just by revving with no load on the engine. It spools really fast and doesn't heat up the air much. I run ~15psi, with the rack limiter removed, and no intercooler and I rarely see EGTs above 950°F, and even then that is multi-minute highway-speed hill climbing. The turbo is good for ~27psi and will flow all the air you will ever need without extreme pump mods. They are available cheap if you look carefully.
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