STD Tuning Engine Decisions decisions... Pump building time

Decisions decisions... Pump building time

Decisions decisions... Pump building time

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
HughF_UK
GT2256V

140
03-29-2011, 09:49 AM #1
The UK contingent on this forum isn't very large, but we are blessed with numerous Bosch diesel shops around the country and quite a keen tractor pulling scene...

I'm looking at options of who to get to build my pump up. I have a local Bosch shop in my town who although have never done a big element M series before, are experienced at VE rebuilds and more modern stuff and have a Bosch KMM bench... They were prepared to look at my pump on an hourly rate basis, which could get expensive...

The other option is a firm up north who specialise in P series and larger pumps for pulling tractors. I have just got off the phone to them (http://www.dieselperformancepumps.co.uk/) and they are happy to look at the pump for a fixed price, which seemed very reasonable too.

The only downside being, they are a long drive away should there be any problems, and it would be an over the phone rather than face to face deal, at the moment at least. I can drive up there in the RV and spend a weekend in the surrounding area if needed.

Should I go local, with unknown costs or further afield and experienced? Is tractor pulling pump experience valuable in the M series 'for-the-road' applications?

I welcome input here from DieselMeken and DervTuning and anyone else who has experience with inline pumps.

I would like to stick with a UK pump shop if possible, mainly to try and get someone here up to speed with doing these 7.5mm into M pump swaps and to save on shipping costs.

Decisions decisions decisions....
HughF_UK
03-29-2011, 09:49 AM #1

The UK contingent on this forum isn't very large, but we are blessed with numerous Bosch diesel shops around the country and quite a keen tractor pulling scene...

I'm looking at options of who to get to build my pump up. I have a local Bosch shop in my town who although have never done a big element M series before, are experienced at VE rebuilds and more modern stuff and have a Bosch KMM bench... They were prepared to look at my pump on an hourly rate basis, which could get expensive...

The other option is a firm up north who specialise in P series and larger pumps for pulling tractors. I have just got off the phone to them (http://www.dieselperformancepumps.co.uk/) and they are happy to look at the pump for a fixed price, which seemed very reasonable too.

The only downside being, they are a long drive away should there be any problems, and it would be an over the phone rather than face to face deal, at the moment at least. I can drive up there in the RV and spend a weekend in the surrounding area if needed.

Should I go local, with unknown costs or further afield and experienced? Is tractor pulling pump experience valuable in the M series 'for-the-road' applications?

I welcome input here from DieselMeken and DervTuning and anyone else who has experience with inline pumps.

I would like to stick with a UK pump shop if possible, mainly to try and get someone here up to speed with doing these 7.5mm into M pump swaps and to save on shipping costs.

Decisions decisions decisions....

pp d
K26-2

42
03-29-2011, 10:23 AM #2

Feel free to send it to me, let`s see what I can do...Cool

pp d
03-29-2011, 10:23 AM #2


Feel free to send it to me, let`s see what I can do...Cool

HughF_UK
GT2256V

140
03-29-2011, 04:19 PM #3
(03-29-2011, 10:23 AM)pp d Feel free to send it to me, let`s see what I can do...Cool

Pasi, you have PM Smile

HughF_UK
03-29-2011, 04:19 PM #3

(03-29-2011, 10:23 AM)pp d Feel free to send it to me, let`s see what I can do...Cool

Pasi, you have PM Smile

pp d
K26-2

42
03-30-2011, 02:14 AM #4
(03-29-2011, 04:19 PM)HughF_UK Pasi, you have PM Smile


So do You Smile
pp d
03-30-2011, 02:14 AM #4

(03-29-2011, 04:19 PM)HughF_UK Pasi, you have PM Smile


So do You Smile

Einar
GT2256V

118
03-30-2011, 02:26 AM #5
If I had to choose, I would use the guys who are used to modify pumps, not the guys who only fix standard pumps, If the price says that too it`s easy.

If you have trouble with the pump, who are most likely too help you, the guys thet don`t know anything about modyfiang and your kind of pump, or the opposit?
Einar
03-30-2011, 02:26 AM #5

If I had to choose, I would use the guys who are used to modify pumps, not the guys who only fix standard pumps, If the price says that too it`s easy.

If you have trouble with the pump, who are most likely too help you, the guys thet don`t know anything about modyfiang and your kind of pump, or the opposit?

JTY
GTA2056V

92
04-07-2011, 08:02 PM #6
(03-30-2011, 02:26 AM)Einar If I had to choose, I would use the guys who are used to modify pumps, not the guys who only fix standard pumps, If the price says that too it`s easy.

If you have trouble with the pump, who are most likely too help you, the guys thet don`t know anything about modyfiang and your kind of pump, or the opposit?

I can recommend pasi/pp-diesel, driving with his 7mm pump for while, no problems, idle perfect, delivery good and very good price/quality.



- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
JTY
04-07-2011, 08:02 PM #6

(03-30-2011, 02:26 AM)Einar If I had to choose, I would use the guys who are used to modify pumps, not the guys who only fix standard pumps, If the price says that too it`s easy.

If you have trouble with the pump, who are most likely too help you, the guys thet don`t know anything about modyfiang and your kind of pump, or the opposit?

I can recommend pasi/pp-diesel, driving with his 7mm pump for while, no problems, idle perfect, delivery good and very good price/quality.



- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims

tomnik
Holset

587
04-07-2011, 11:31 PM #7
dito.

But 7mm was yesterday...

Tom
tomnik
04-07-2011, 11:31 PM #7

dito.

But 7mm was yesterday...

Tom

JTY
GTA2056V

92
04-10-2011, 01:45 AM #8
(04-07-2011, 11:31 PM)tomnik dito.

But 7mm was yesterday...

Tom

Yesterday,
All my troubles seemed so far away,
Now it looks as though they're here to stay,
Oh, I believe in yesterday....Big Grin

7mm is "standard" way to go big, works, cheap, enough for most of us, but if you want more than your neighbor then go with bigger elements (8mm, 8.5mm...).


- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
JTY
04-10-2011, 01:45 AM #8

(04-07-2011, 11:31 PM)tomnik dito.

But 7mm was yesterday...

Tom

Yesterday,
All my troubles seemed so far away,
Now it looks as though they're here to stay,
Oh, I believe in yesterday....Big Grin

7mm is "standard" way to go big, works, cheap, enough for most of us, but if you want more than your neighbor then go with bigger elements (8mm, 8.5mm...).


- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims

tomnik
Holset

587
04-10-2011, 04:50 AM #9
(04-10-2011, 01:45 AM)JTY Yesterday,
All my troubles seemed so far away,
Now it looks as though they're here to stay,
Oh, I believe in yesterday....Big Grin

7mm is "standard" way to go big, works, cheap, enough for most of us, but if you want more than your neighbor then go with bigger elements (8mm, 8.5mm...).

I am not talking about (and not interested in) max. fuel delivery...
I know from calculation where the 5.5, 7 and 7.5mm elements get out of efficiency.
The first elements 7.5mm had a lower max. output than the 7mm. But the 7mm were way earlier out of range, which I just cut off on my 7.5.
My intention is to get higher output with less emission (smoke"less" power).
The reason why the 7mm has become "standard" is simply because these were the biggest M series elements available.
And talking about "cheap", I like to put this in relation with the labour cost for swapping the elements and adjustment and the final result (smooth running, power, smoke, consumption) and of course quality.

Tom
tomnik
04-10-2011, 04:50 AM #9

(04-10-2011, 01:45 AM)JTY Yesterday,
All my troubles seemed so far away,
Now it looks as though they're here to stay,
Oh, I believe in yesterday....Big Grin

7mm is "standard" way to go big, works, cheap, enough for most of us, but if you want more than your neighbor then go with bigger elements (8mm, 8.5mm...).

I am not talking about (and not interested in) max. fuel delivery...
I know from calculation where the 5.5, 7 and 7.5mm elements get out of efficiency.
The first elements 7.5mm had a lower max. output than the 7mm. But the 7mm were way earlier out of range, which I just cut off on my 7.5.
My intention is to get higher output with less emission (smoke"less" power).
The reason why the 7mm has become "standard" is simply because these were the biggest M series elements available.
And talking about "cheap", I like to put this in relation with the labour cost for swapping the elements and adjustment and the final result (smooth running, power, smoke, consumption) and of course quality.

Tom

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 4 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 4 Guest(s)