Toyota pickup OM617 swap
Toyota pickup OM617 swap
03-29-2011, 02:42 PM
#1
I built an adapter to mate it to the toyota 5 speeed
![[Image: IMAG0071.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0071.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0070.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0070.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0072.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0072.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0074.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0074.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0075.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0075.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0076.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0076.jpg)
New engine sitting in its home
![[Image: IMAG0081.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0081.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0078.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0078.jpg)
It is VERY tight in the front
![[Image: IMAG0079.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0079.jpg)
Heres where im currently at
Exhaust downpipe wrapped with fiberglass
![[Image: IMAG0082.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0082.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0087.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0087.jpg)
For the throttle I used a lokar carb style adapter
![[Image: IMAG0094.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0094.jpg)
Mercedes adapter to toyota oil pressure sending unit
![[Image: IMAG0091.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0091.jpg)
Radiator fitment I used a volvo radiator
![[Image: IMAG0085.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0085.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0086.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0086.jpg)
Had to use hood pins because I cut so much out to fit the radiator
![[Image: IMAG0084.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0084.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0095.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0095.jpg)
Some random shots
![[Image: IMAG0088.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0088.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0092.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0092.jpg)
And I just got these in the mail. Newly rebuild and pressure tested injectors with monark nozzles from mercedes source gotta love that place!
![[Image: IMAG0098.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0098.jpg)
So thats where Im at as of now.
Heres what I have left on the to do list:
Hook up pyro, boost, oil temp, and water temp gauges
Finish wiring glow plug system
Cut notch out of oil pan for steering clearance
Purge the fuel system
Install new injectors and pre cup seal washers
And Im probably forgetting somthing. Should have more updates this weeknd
This post was last modified: 03-29-2011, 02:55 PM by 4rnnr33.
Well Ive been lurking around here for a while and have gotten lots of good info so Ive decided to share my project. Im swapping a OM617 turbo into a 94 toyota pickup. Heres some picks
I built an adapter to mate it to the toyota 5 speeed
New engine sitting in its home
It is VERY tight in the front
Heres where im currently at
Exhaust downpipe wrapped with fiberglass
For the throttle I used a lokar carb style adapter
Mercedes adapter to toyota oil pressure sending unit
Radiator fitment I used a volvo radiator
Had to use hood pins because I cut so much out to fit the radiator
Some random shots
And I just got these in the mail. Newly rebuild and pressure tested injectors with monark nozzles from mercedes source gotta love that place!
So thats where Im at as of now.
Heres what I have left on the to do list:
Hook up pyro, boost, oil temp, and water temp gauges
Finish wiring glow plug system
Cut notch out of oil pan for steering clearance
Purge the fuel system
Install new injectors and pre cup seal washers
And Im probably forgetting somthing. Should have more updates this weeknd
03-29-2011, 03:01 PM
#2
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
03-29-2011, 03:01 PM #2Cool Project
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
03-29-2011, 03:11 PM
#3
(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump
Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?
This post was last modified: 03-29-2011, 03:57 PM by 4rnnr33.
03-29-2011, 10:07 PM
#4
1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver
1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig
1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified"
GONE
DrewGerhan
03-29-2011, 10:07 PM #4From what I understand, its automatically filled via engine oil circulation. Not really a need to check the level.
1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver
1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig
1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified"
GONE
03-29-2011, 11:24 PM
#5
(03-29-2011, 03:11 PM)4rnnr33(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump
Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?
I don't believe there is a "check" point on the pump, but there is a fill point; and the ALDA banjo points right at it.
Drew is right, it fills itself. I have never filled one after having the back cover off...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
03-29-2011, 11:24 PM #5(03-29-2011, 03:11 PM)4rnnr33(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump
Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?
I don't believe there is a "check" point on the pump, but there is a fill point; and the ALDA banjo points right at it.
Drew is right, it fills itself. I have never filled one after having the back cover off...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
03-30-2011, 01:33 AM
#6
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
03-30-2011, 01:40 AM
#7
(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
03-30-2011, 01:40 AM #7(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
03-30-2011, 10:22 AM
#8
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
awesome project! nice job on the adaption! Its amazing how close the toyota manual trans are to these mercedes as far as starter location is
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
03-30-2011, 12:24 PM
#9
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-30-2011, 12:24 PM #9Very nice! I like the adapter for the pilot bearing I may have to do something similar for my 300sdl 6spd project if I go with a single mass flywheel!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
03-30-2011, 01:53 PM
#10
(03-30-2011, 01:40 AM)Captain America(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
I only have 220hp at the wheels lol. It's an old idi. The 460+ ftlbs is what does it. I have 250ftlbs at 900rpm lol.
The thing I liked was its simple an will run at any angle.
Looks good. I've seen a couple of 4runners with the om617 and they all have been different.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
(03-30-2011, 01:40 AM)Captain America(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
I only have 220hp at the wheels lol. It's an old idi. The 460+ ftlbs is what does it. I have 250ftlbs at 900rpm lol.
The thing I liked was its simple an will run at any angle.
Looks good. I've seen a couple of 4runners with the om617 and they all have been different.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
03-30-2011, 02:07 PM
#11
Oh and heres a pic of the truck that this is taking place on
![[Image: IMGP0591.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMGP0591.jpg)
This post was last modified: 03-30-2011, 02:10 PM by 4rnnr33.
03-30-2011, 03:27 PM
#14
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
03-30-2011, 03:27 PM #14that looks pretty wicked. Can not wait to see this thing run.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
03-31-2011, 12:01 AM
#15
This post was last modified: 03-31-2011, 12:05 AM by 676869addict.
Attached Files
Image(s)
676869addict
03-31-2011, 12:01 AM #15im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
Attached Files
Image(s)
03-31-2011, 02:46 PM
#16
(03-31-2011, 12:01 AM)676869addict im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
No I didnt look, after researching other people who have done the swap the majority of them didnt get the flywheel matched and had no problems so hopefully I get lucky too, but since Ive had it running when its idling it vibrates quite a bit but Im hoping my motor mounts are just too stiff... Maybe someone can chime in on how much vibration is normal with these engines.
Oh and while Im on here does anyone have any ideas on how to convert the mercedes tach signal to work with the factory toyota tach? This is the only thing that still has me puzzled.
This post was last modified: 03-31-2011, 02:56 PM by 4rnnr33.
(03-31-2011, 12:01 AM)676869addict im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
No I didnt look, after researching other people who have done the swap the majority of them didnt get the flywheel matched and had no problems so hopefully I get lucky too, but since Ive had it running when its idling it vibrates quite a bit but Im hoping my motor mounts are just too stiff... Maybe someone can chime in on how much vibration is normal with these engines.
Oh and while Im on here does anyone have any ideas on how to convert the mercedes tach signal to work with the factory toyota tach? This is the only thing that still has me puzzled.
03-31-2011, 04:21 PM
#17
Thse swaps look AWESOME!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
There's a guy on one of the other forums that does custom tach amps, I forget the name though.
Thse swaps look AWESOME!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
http://www.mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html
this guy maybe?
03-31-2011, 07:05 PM
#19
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
03-31-2011, 11:32 PM
#20
@Dieselboy, I have 177hp and 224ft lbs of torque lol..... until the turbo gets installed. Add 100 to both numbers with 6lbs of boost
This post was last modified: 04-01-2011, 01:53 AM by Captain America.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
03-31-2011, 11:32 PM #20Man that thing looks badass bobbed! Wow I love the look!
@Dieselboy, I have 177hp and 224ft lbs of torque lol..... until the turbo gets installed. Add 100 to both numbers with 6lbs of boost
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
03-31-2011, 11:52 PM
#21
Email him and explain the situation, he should be able to make it work just purty.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Yep, that's the guy for tach amps.
Email him and explain the situation, he should be able to make it work just purty.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-03-2011, 04:28 PM
#23
Notched the oil pan to clear draglink. Got super lucky on this because I didnt have to modify the pickup.
![[Image: IMAG0099.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0099.jpg)
![[Image: IMAG0100.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0100.jpg)
About 3/8" of clearance with suspension maxed out
![[Image: IMAG0101.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0101.jpg)
Rebuilt injectors installed\
![[Image: IMAG0103.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0103.jpg)
New primer pump installed
![[Image: IMAG0104.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0104.jpg)
Gauges all hooked up (Still need to hook up water temp)
![[Image: IMAG0105.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0105.jpg)
And a random one
![[Image: IMAG0102.jpg]](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/yamarider3/IMAG0102.jpg)
This post was last modified: 04-03-2011, 04:29 PM by 4rnnr33.
Well I got it pretty much all buttoned up this weekend and have drove it yesterday and today. Everything is going good so far except Im pretty sure im going to have to drop the tranny back out and get the flywheel match balanced, it vibrates quite a bit at idle and higher RPMs. Other than that theres a few small oil leaks to fix. The only other thing Ive noticed is that even with my ALDA adjusted all the way out I still get no black smoke so I think I might not be getting enough fuel maybe? The only thing I can think of is that I didnt take out the stock in tank fuel pump so maybe thats restricting flow? Anyways heres some pics
Notched the oil pan to clear draglink. Got super lucky on this because I didnt have to modify the pickup.
About 3/8" of clearance with suspension maxed out
Rebuilt injectors installed\
New primer pump installed
Gauges all hooked up (Still need to hook up water temp)
And a random one
04-03-2011, 04:36 PM
#24
A little at WOT before the turbo spools is acceptable, but much more than that isn't doing you any good.
Is the stock pump still running, or did you snip it's wire?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Contrary to popular belief, you don't want black smoke, that means you have unburnt fuel and are dumping $$$ out the exhaust pipe.
A little at WOT before the turbo spools is acceptable, but much more than that isn't doing you any good.
Is the stock pump still running, or did you snip it's wire?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-03-2011, 05:16 PM
#26
(04-03-2011, 04:47 PM)larsalan what kinda fuel pump is that?
Which pump are you talking about? The in tank pump is stock toyota. Or are you talking about the IP? That's the MW pump
This post was last modified: 04-03-2011, 05:19 PM by 4rnnr33.
Ya I know I don't really want the smoke but what im saying is that it won't smoke which tells me the fuel may be getting restricted somewhere like possibly the in tank pump. And it is not hooked up.
(04-03-2011, 04:47 PM)larsalan what kinda fuel pump is that?
Which pump are you talking about? The in tank pump is stock toyota. Or are you talking about the IP? That's the MW pump
04-03-2011, 06:13 PM
#28
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-03-2011, 06:47 PM
#29
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)larsalan
this one, is a bosch lift pump?
No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch ones
Edit: its a monarch pump
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)300D50 Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
I was actually just going to completely remove the pump but you gave me an idea. Hook the pump to a switch..... more fuel at the flick of a switch I might have to see if that would work hehe
This post was last modified: 04-03-2011, 06:58 PM by 4rnnr33.
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)larsalan
this one, is a bosch lift pump?
No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch ones
Edit: its a monarch pump
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)300D50 Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
I was actually just going to completely remove the pump but you gave me an idea. Hook the pump to a switch..... more fuel at the flick of a switch I might have to see if that would work hehe
04-03-2011, 07:03 PM
#30
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
The IP will limit the max pressure to a safe level, so I'd just leave it on all the time.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-03-2011, 07:21 PM
#31
(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
ForcedInduction
04-03-2011, 07:21 PM
#31
(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
04-03-2011, 07:58 PM
#32
(04-03-2011, 07:21 PM)ForcedInduction(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
Ya I know that I just mean its built more heavy duty and it does seem to pump a lot better than the old one (manually of course)
(04-03-2011, 07:21 PM)ForcedInduction(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
Ya I know that I just mean its built more heavy duty and it does seem to pump a lot better than the old one (manually of course)
04-04-2011, 07:04 AM
#34
Id first remove that in tank toyota fuel pump. The vibration could be the engine working extra hard to draw fuel past a restriction, or an air problem or something.
There could be all kinds of stuff with that pump that might harming fuel delivery. I had a problem on a swap once (not toyota, I think it was a VW 1.6 diesel repowering from gas) where all our issues turned out to be caused by a one way check valve between the supply and return lines inside the fuel tank as part of the in tank pump assembly. We had physically removed the pump itself, but had left the assembly to act as supply and return stand pipes.
In that circumstance, the check valve was designed to close with pressure from the stock pump, but when fuel was DRAWN from the fuel feed by the mechanical diesel, the check valve line would open to return, dumping air into the supply line. Of course, it would only do this if you had 3/4s of a tank or less, or if you really whomped on the pedal.
Took forever to pin down, it just looked like an extra piece of supporting plastic between the two lines, it wasn't until I was taking the thing completely apart that this little check valve, and an actual connection between supply and return presented itself. We ended up removing the whole thing in favor of a straight tube for supply and a port for return.Removing that pump and any in line fuel filter underneath would at least remove that variable so you have a essentially stock mercedes like fuel system to start for diagnosis
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
have the valves been adjusted?
Id first remove that in tank toyota fuel pump. The vibration could be the engine working extra hard to draw fuel past a restriction, or an air problem or something.
There could be all kinds of stuff with that pump that might harming fuel delivery. I had a problem on a swap once (not toyota, I think it was a VW 1.6 diesel repowering from gas) where all our issues turned out to be caused by a one way check valve between the supply and return lines inside the fuel tank as part of the in tank pump assembly. We had physically removed the pump itself, but had left the assembly to act as supply and return stand pipes.
In that circumstance, the check valve was designed to close with pressure from the stock pump, but when fuel was DRAWN from the fuel feed by the mechanical diesel, the check valve line would open to return, dumping air into the supply line. Of course, it would only do this if you had 3/4s of a tank or less, or if you really whomped on the pedal. Took forever to pin down, it just looked like an extra piece of supporting plastic between the two lines, it wasn't until I was taking the thing completely apart that this little check valve, and an actual connection between supply and return presented itself. We ended up removing the whole thing in favor of a straight tube for supply and a port for return.
Removing that pump and any in line fuel filter underneath would at least remove that variable so you have a essentially stock mercedes like fuel system to start for diagnosis
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-04-2011, 02:35 PM
#35
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-04-2011, 02:46 PM
#36
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
Ya i think thats what Ill try and do first is just hook up power to the in tank pump and see if that helps. Thats if I can trace down the wiring for it in the harness. If i cant find the wire i have to drop the tank to get to the plug anyways so I might as well just completely eliminate it. And I havent adjusted the valves yet but that will be getting done this weekend as soon as I make some wrenches
This post was last modified: 04-04-2011, 02:48 PM by 4rnnr33.
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
Ya i think thats what Ill try and do first is just hook up power to the in tank pump and see if that helps. Thats if I can trace down the wiring for it in the harness. If i cant find the wire i have to drop the tank to get to the plug anyways so I might as well just completely eliminate it. And I havent adjusted the valves yet but that will be getting done this weekend as soon as I make some wrenches
04-04-2011, 06:50 PM
#37
Ed
yankneck696
04-04-2011, 06:50 PM #37If you havent stripped all of the wiring out, get a schematic from a Haynes or Chiltons manual, find the fuel pump relay.Hook it to ignition+ or - & there you go.
Ed
04-05-2011, 12:34 AM
#39
(04-04-2011, 10:13 PM)85-300Dt(04-04-2011, 01:53 AM)4rnnr33 it vibrates pretty bad at high rpms not sure if its normal .mine was the opposite plenty of vibes at idle but smoothed right out with rpms
It does at idle too then smoothes out and gets worse at high rpms
04-05-2011, 01:16 AM
#40
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
04-05-2011, 04:33 PM
#41
(04-05-2011, 01:16 AM)dieselboy You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
Ya I filled up I just stuck a screwdriver in the filler neck to open the little "flap" and had to fill it very slowly to keep it from overflowing. But i have a couple old ford diesel parts trucks sitting around so Ill probably try and graft a filler neck off one of them to the toyota.
(04-05-2011, 01:16 AM)dieselboy You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
Ya I filled up I just stuck a screwdriver in the filler neck to open the little "flap" and had to fill it very slowly to keep it from overflowing. But i have a couple old ford diesel parts trucks sitting around so Ill probably try and graft a filler neck off one of them to the toyota.
04-05-2011, 06:05 PM
#42
wish my Toyota frame was not rotten, this post gets me thinking of a swap.
the 617 runs very smooth at normal highway speeds. idle can be a little rough if the motor mounts are not good. in the car it has shock absorbers in addition to the mounts. If these go bad the engine is all over the place. Sort of a weird but gentle side to side rocking motion.
wish my Toyota frame was not rotten, this post gets me thinking of a swap.
04-08-2011, 06:12 PM
#43
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
yeah, but whats the pressure of the stock gas pump? We need to find that out, could be over 100 psi (or could be low like the diesel). Short term, that might work great, but long term, deadheading the stock gas fuel pump against the 15-30psi mechanical diesel lift pump could end up toasting the stock pump, or blowing out a seal on the mechanical pump, either way creating some kind of restriction/drivability problem
I still think that it would be better to just remove it for the long term if its a fairly high pressure pump.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
yeah, but whats the pressure of the stock gas pump? We need to find that out, could be over 100 psi (or could be low like the diesel). Short term, that might work great, but long term, deadheading the stock gas fuel pump against the 15-30psi mechanical diesel lift pump could end up toasting the stock pump, or blowing out a seal on the mechanical pump, either way creating some kind of restriction/drivability problem
I still think that it would be better to just remove it for the long term if its a fairly high pressure pump.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-08-2011, 10:43 PM
#44
If it was a 5psi positive-displacement pump deadheading against a 100psi overpressure valve, you'd have problems, but most pumps are now turbine anyways.
Still can be an issue in certain cases, but I say drive it till it fails, then pull it. We know the failure mode anyways, and that the engine will run without it.
The original problem might not even be related to the fuel pump, it could be a weak return spring in the IP's banjo or a clogged fuel filter on the frame rail.
EDIT:
Just remembered the lift pump has check-valves, so you can still blow past it easily, I've pumped diesel through mine with a rattle-prattle inline pump before to purge air.
This post was last modified: 04-08-2011, 10:47 PM by 300D50.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
A surge tank takes care of it, and a high-psi pump against a low-psi over-pressure valve isn't much of a problem.
If it was a 5psi positive-displacement pump deadheading against a 100psi overpressure valve, you'd have problems, but most pumps are now turbine anyways.
Still can be an issue in certain cases, but I say drive it till it fails, then pull it. We know the failure mode anyways, and that the engine will run without it.
The original problem might not even be related to the fuel pump, it could be a weak return spring in the IP's banjo or a clogged fuel filter on the frame rail.
EDIT:
Just remembered the lift pump has check-valves, so you can still blow past it easily, I've pumped diesel through mine with a rattle-prattle inline pump before to purge air.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-09-2011, 12:41 AM
#46
Removing it is the cleanest option, so go for it!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Removing it is the cleanest option, so go for it!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
04-09-2011, 12:48 AM
#48
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
I cut a hole in my floor instead of dropping my tank lol.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
04-09-2011, 07:15 AM
#49
(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-09-2011, 07:59 PM
#50
(04-09-2011, 07:15 AM)dropnosky(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.
See thats what is nice about the toyota is there are no straps just 6 bolts that hold the tank up, it makes it really easy.
(04-09-2011, 07:15 AM)dropnosky(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.
See thats what is nice about the toyota is there are no straps just 6 bolts that hold the tank up, it makes it really easy.
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