found gasoline in my 300D!
found gasoline in my 300D!
So I'm a new owner to a 84 300SD. I wanted one for years and the price was right, (425.00) so i jumped on it! It has been sitting for at least 8 years and the past owner had it for 2 of them and was never able to get it to start. Figuring that the fuel was crap after this long, I intended to drain/ flush the system. I droped the secondary filter to get a sample of what I was dealing with and saw a yellowish substance coming out of the filter.
This sample looks and smells JUST LIKE laquored gasoline!!! CRAP, now what to do!
I plan to use a remote diesel tank (gas can) and tie into the supply line before the primary filter, crack the injector lines one by one, and use the hand primer pump to try to purge the system of it's old gas.
Short of purging the system, replacing filters and trying to start it with fresh diesel, I am looking for any other suggestions I should do before I try to start her up.
Please provide me with any suggestions I should do before I try to start her up. Does this car have a lift pump???
Thanks
I have ordered a repair manual
8 years is a long time. Change the oil before startup along with the filter.
your fuel supply idea sounds great.
There is a lift pump, its on the driver's side of the injection pump and has 2 fuel lines coming out of it (and a hand primer).
once you get the car somewhere to work on it, drain the tank, clean it out and look for a big nut on the bottom with fuel lines going to it. This is the 'tank strainer'... if someone used to put garbage in the tank, this filter / strainer is probably clogged.
Read up on how to adjust the valves. Often, this can prevent a 617 / 616 from starting... especially in cold weather.
That's great info, thanks!
So the lift pump is the Bosch device that is fastened to the left side of the injection pump, with what looks to be the main hand operated priming pump?
I was expecting there to be some sort of electric pump near to the tank.
I'll look out for that strainer. It looks like a great place to drain the tank from too.
I was planning to use Delo, 400 15w-40. Does that sound about right?
Or is there a preferred oil used on these engines?
Thanks,
Pete
Delo or Rotel T will work great
yep. thats the lift pump (LP)
No electric dependency for these engines to run... zero.
Sometimes the strainer can be a pain... I have always been able to get it off though with just channel lock pliers. Just be patient and cautious.
Delo is fine. I used to run it all the time. I had an oil analysis done at 5ooo miles with it once and there was still room to keep it in. Synthetic is pointless on this engine since you can't really keep it in long enough for any cost benefits without supplemental oil filtration.
run dino until about 6k or 7k. get an oil analysis, and make a good decision for your engine depending on the results.
Well these TD and WillBe have given you plenty to start with. My only question is some tried to run the engine on gas??? I wonder what condition the engine is in because of this....
By biggest fear would be if gas has gummed up the injectors for sitting in them?
But you wont know till you start cranking!
It may take a hell of a lot of cranking to get it going again!
a big fully charged battery and maybe a back up in case you run it dead trying
The injector lines will self bleed with the hand primer pump on the side of the IP I would hook up a fresh fuel source and Temporarily run the return line in to a separate bottle to bleed the nasty stuff out!
The feed line is the one running to the small filter on the side of the IP
The return it the big cigar shaped line running from the top of the main filter back near the metal feed/return line on the LH inner fender
(04-22-2011, 10:36 AM)willbhere4u The return it the big cigar shaped line running from the top of the main filter back near the metal feed/return line on the LH inner fender
(04-22-2011, 10:36 AM)willbhere4u The return it the big cigar shaped line running from the top of the main filter back near the metal feed/return line on the LH inner fender
Looks like about 1 ohm.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm
No Problem meng!
Well after a solid 7-1/2 hours and 15 gallons of lacquered gasoline, VICTORY IS MINE! (why is it that the two cars I have ever bought that has had over a 1/4 tank of gas in it when I bought it was BAD GAS!!!) I've owned over 30 cars!
it took for ever for her to fire, but she kept teasing me with a little pop here and there, so I didn't give up.
She runs like s**t, but I'll worry about that later.
Thanks again all for all your help!
Say, I plan to service the transmission tomorrow, can I use dextron III?
also, what is the correct lug nut torque on these?
80 lb-ft
dex III, all good
The question about the possible engine damage makes a good point. Other than being harsh on rings, the one thing I would be concerned about is the prechamber (the part that injector threads into that is pressed into a bore in the head.)
if you find that the engine "nails" or 'knocks' after you start driving it for a while, it could be a broken prechamber. Pulling each injector and shining a flashlight down that bore should provide a good enough inspection.
congrats!
defiantly do a valve adjustment and some diesel kleen is in order to help lubricate and clean everything in the injection system!
congrats!
I pulled two of the injectors while I waited for the battery to come back. #1 had oil in the prechamber. Is there an oil galley around these chambers to cool the injectors?
Can these injectors be tuned if pulled and sent away?
I just got my W123 cd (14.00 on eBay), so maybe I won't need to ask so many simple questions.
Do the local parts stores sell parts for these? I own land rovers, and with them, you can't even get an air filter at a local store.
Thanks!
I can get parts, just need to wait a few days. Or you can order them from the net. I dunno how things go in alaska though. What parts are you thinking of?
Napa is higher quality than O'Reilly.... Or at least around here they are.