Water-Methanol Injection System
Water-Methanol Injection System
1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
Thanks!
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Onto my next project: Relocating the washer fluid reservoir to the trunk & installing a 6 gallon tank for a water-methanol injection system. The first part is the poly tank in the trunk. I located a perfect fit. A 16" L x 8" W x 12" H tank, 3/8 walled translucent tank, with a 4" vented fill cap with a gravity fed 3/8 female fitting for a nipple. I already designed the bracket to hold this as this will go into the side "pocket" compartment - driver's side. I can easily install and run the 3/8" hose to the engine bay and hook it up to the washer fluid squirter pump. HOWEVER, this is where my knowledge ends; that is, a "T" from the squirter pump to the W+M system. I will post some pictures of this part of the project. From there, everything is work in the engine bay area. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Pic's would be great.
1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
Thanks!
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
alcoholinjectionsystems.com
I have a switch to sense the boost for on/off as well as a manual toggle. I just run tap water. hoping to clean out the motor. Meth would cost too much. Though the meth will really let me feel the power and smooth out my motor. I'm sure it is tuned like crap and on its last few hundred thousand miles
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I use just one nozzle. yes it works, unless air gets in the line from running out of fluid. Then I have to kinda prime the lines cause there is a one way pressure sensitive valve before the injection nozzle.
alcoholinjectionsystems.com
I have a switch to sense the boost for on/off as well as a manual toggle. I just run tap water. hoping to clean out the motor. Meth would cost too much. Though the meth will really let me feel the power and smooth out my motor. I'm sure it is tuned like crap and on its last few hundred thousand miles
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Your thoughts?
How long have you been running it?
I have been burning WVO for about 3 years. I have not seen any damage or problems with my engine except very mild junk on the heat shields when I pull the injectors for inspection. I am looking for W+M's cleaning & increased HP properties.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Can you please send me some pictures, especially where your nozzle is placed. I assume it is plumbed at the turbo somewhere in particular? I guess all the components are off the shelf and plug-and-play? I am just scared to drill and tap a hole into my turbo. Once I start drilling, I am committed and I do not like that scenario.
Your thoughts?
How long have you been running it?
I have been burning WVO for about 3 years. I have not seen any damage or problems with my engine except very mild junk on the heat shields when I pull the injectors for inspection. I am looking for W+M's cleaning & increased HP properties.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and some from
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/ -- I use a 3gph nozzle activated over around 7psi. But often I wait to switch it on manually above 10psi, when the intake air is REALLY hot.
this is not my image but, this is where my nozzle it plumbed in. It is a 1/8 npt thread
I tried to do some math and it seems that the intake air will be above 100c when psi is like 8.5 or higher. Not sure how big of a deal the temp is.
I have recently though about putting the nozzle where the wastegate is tapped in. And moving the wastegate line to where the nozzle is tapped in.
for some info on placement
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
I guess some water would blow through the wastegate if I swapped the two lines but, that is just one more route to wash out. I have a ton of blowby running through the turbo when the motor is warmed up. I run a lot of umo/kero too, biggest problem with that is smoke and always having to clean out the filters.
If you drill a 11/32 hole I believe then tap the 1/8 npt you could always just get a 1/8 npt plug.
I have a gallon jug under the hood that I fill up all the time and sometimes take a break to make sure all the h2o slipping into the crankcase can boil off. I have run it for a while, have only had the car for like 7-8 months but probably put 50-70 gallons of water through. Search my threads and you can see when I looked into it. The installation is not hard. I am hoping to find an old propane tank or something to put in the trunk and use as a water tank. I have plumbed the trunk lock/unlock vacuum lines from the trunk to the engine bay.
Your project will no doubt look nice. I am more junkyard
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
sort of plug and play. I got some parts from
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and some from
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/ -- I use a 3gph nozzle activated over around 7psi. But often I wait to switch it on manually above 10psi, when the intake air is REALLY hot.
this is not my image but, this is where my nozzle it plumbed in. It is a 1/8 npt thread
I tried to do some math and it seems that the intake air will be above 100c when psi is like 8.5 or higher. Not sure how big of a deal the temp is.
I have recently though about putting the nozzle where the wastegate is tapped in. And moving the wastegate line to where the nozzle is tapped in.
for some info on placement
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
I guess some water would blow through the wastegate if I swapped the two lines but, that is just one more route to wash out. I have a ton of blowby running through the turbo when the motor is warmed up. I run a lot of umo/kero too, biggest problem with that is smoke and always having to clean out the filters.
If you drill a 11/32 hole I believe then tap the 1/8 npt you could always just get a 1/8 npt plug.
I have a gallon jug under the hood that I fill up all the time and sometimes take a break to make sure all the h2o slipping into the crankcase can boil off. I have run it for a while, have only had the car for like 7-8 months but probably put 50-70 gallons of water through. Search my threads and you can see when I looked into it. The installation is not hard. I am hoping to find an old propane tank or something to put in the trunk and use as a water tank. I have plumbed the trunk lock/unlock vacuum lines from the trunk to the engine bay.
Your project will no doubt look nice. I am more junkyard
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
THANKS for the information & compliment. I may get some guts now and drill a hole. I searched the junkyards almost every week but I could not locate any sort of reservoir bigger than what appears to be a gallon. Once I move the stock washer fluid reservoir, I will have room to relocate the oil filter housing. My goal is to seperate all the fluids so that I can install Jiffy-Tite connectors for quick swaps and to clean up the engine bay. Once I get to that pont, I can really do some mods real for performance. So far, the EGR and ARV is removed and that made the car a little more peppy. I took apart the waste gate and unseized the shaft and it is set at 9.9 PSI (really wont hit 10 on the nose). I also have a cone filter which I am not too happy with. I am looking thru the junkyards for a traditional box type filter that will fit up front next to the A/C dryer. Once I get the tank & line installed up to the point where I will put a "T" in for the squirter pump, I am in totally new land. Thanks again.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
--> one way check valve --> nozzle
the valve should open once the 100psi of fluid is pushing on it. People say if is set to crack real low, or you don't use the valve. Then the boost in the intake manifold can pull a vacuum on the fluid at a lower pressure than you intended for it to.
dig it?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
You need to get that 100+psi pump right. And with this T situation, it will be ok to supply from a T but, the 100psi pump should go
--> one way check valve --> nozzle
the valve should open once the 100psi of fluid is pushing on it. People say if is set to crack real low, or you don't use the valve. Then the boost in the intake manifold can pull a vacuum on the fluid at a lower pressure than you intended for it to.
dig it?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Actually, a little lost. What will crack? I got the need for a pump, and the check valve for flow OK (why do you need this??) and, what triggers it -- the nozzle to get a flow or to operate? Vacuum from the turbo? My turbo has the ARV (or whatever you call it). Can I go into that somehow with the nozzle?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
so it is one way. And also needs 22psi pushing in the right direction to open. If your turbo is
turbo <---check valve (this will 'crack')<---- pump <---reservoir
so the turbo will be sucking on your system just like it is sucking air in from the air filter. I guess the location should be further from the cylinders. I was think of moving mine further back in the snail as I mentioned before.
A previous member here at std said that moving the nozzle back to that position from just 3 in. closer to the manifold.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/W...index.html
so it is one way. And also needs 22psi pushing in the right direction to open. If your turbo is
turbo <---check valve (this will 'crack')<---- pump <---reservoir
so the turbo will be sucking on your system just like it is sucking air in from the air filter. I guess the location should be further from the cylinders. I was think of moving mine further back in the snail as I mentioned before.
A previous member here at std said that moving the nozzle back to that position from just 3 in. closer to the manifold.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
BUT, where would be the best place or the place that folks have success with. The ARV is in the way on my turbo, or should I figure out a central spot on the intake -- I have the "log" type and not the W115 type yet. So, is it better to be closer to the air filter side of the turbo or closer to the intake manifold side?
So, the amount of vacuum -- PSI -- is the trigger.
So, once my line makes it to the engine bay, I will need a
1. Pump - high pressure 100 psi plus
2. Nozzle
3. Line & Fittings
4. Pump since I am not perfectly gravity flow -- some uphill
5. Anything else ???
Thoughts --
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
OK -- I understand the theory by your flow chart. Thanks!!!!
BUT, where would be the best place or the place that folks have success with. The ARV is in the way on my turbo, or should I figure out a central spot on the intake -- I have the "log" type and not the W115 type yet. So, is it better to be closer to the air filter side of the turbo or closer to the intake manifold side?
So, the amount of vacuum -- PSI -- is the trigger.
So, once my line makes it to the engine bay, I will need a
1. Pump - high pressure 100 psi plus
2. Nozzle
3. Line & Fittings
4. Pump since I am not perfectly gravity flow -- some uphill
5. Anything else ???
Thoughts --
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
People say don't inject before the turbo blades but, it you look at that link I posted up there you will see that some people do. They claim it is for good atomization. The negative effect is supposed to be the density of the fluid as opposed to air being bad for the blades and shaft.
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
the quick connect lines are standard size. I got 25ft of tubing from amazon for like $2.50 And tap for the fittings is 1/8 npt. That's why I want to tap into an old metal tank. I had some plastic jugs in the trunk that I had screwed the fittings into and put silicone all over it but that was shitty and leaked all over, waste of $10-15.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
should not need a pump to get the fluid to your high pressure pump. once all the air is out none should leak in and it will hold in the lines and get sucked up by the high pressure pump.
People say don't inject before the turbo blades but, it you look at that link I posted up there you will see that some people do. They claim it is for good atomization. The negative effect is supposed to be the density of the fluid as opposed to air being bad for the blades and shaft.
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
the quick connect lines are standard size. I got 25ft of tubing from amazon for like $2.50 And tap for the fittings is 1/8 npt. That's why I want to tap into an old metal tank. I had some plastic jugs in the trunk that I had screwed the fittings into and put silicone all over it but that was shitty and leaked all over, waste of $10-15.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thre...-injection
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
04-21-2011, 04:44 PM #11Here is FI's thread... Crap, lunch is over.... Will visit later
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thre...-injection
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
I found a site and joined a forum called "Devilsown" a few hours ago. All they do is M+W injection. They have a built in calculator to determine nozzles, et cet. A pretty specific site / organization. I am hitting Pull-A-Part Saturday, regardless of the weather to pick up an intake manifold to tap the holes in a spare and to get the system together.
Also, found a great place where you can get a "custom" poly container. I got a 16" long x 8" wide x 12" high tank on order and they will insert up to 3 fittings free. The tank is under $40 and shipping is around $15.00. I will post the specifics when they call me back. They are located in ID and OR, called Roto-Custom Plastics. Seemed like nice folks. So, for around $55 I can get a 6 gallon tank that will fit perfectly in the other side compartment in the trunk. This will balance out nicely with my battery box. Got a really simple design for the bracket & holding straps.
So, for under $100.00 I can have a 6 gallon container, bracket and straps, hi-pressure nylon tubing 3/8 x 25' and intake manifold ready to go. Just need pump, fittings, and switch. I found one that is activted 2-10 PSI.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Hey,
I found a site and joined a forum called "Devilsown" a few hours ago. All they do is M+W injection. They have a built in calculator to determine nozzles, et cet. A pretty specific site / organization. I am hitting Pull-A-Part Saturday, regardless of the weather to pick up an intake manifold to tap the holes in a spare and to get the system together.
Also, found a great place where you can get a "custom" poly container. I got a 16" long x 8" wide x 12" high tank on order and they will insert up to 3 fittings free. The tank is under $40 and shipping is around $15.00. I will post the specifics when they call me back. They are located in ID and OR, called Roto-Custom Plastics. Seemed like nice folks. So, for around $55 I can get a 6 gallon tank that will fit perfectly in the other side compartment in the trunk. This will balance out nicely with my battery box. Got a really simple design for the bracket & holding straps.
So, for under $100.00 I can have a 6 gallon container, bracket and straps, hi-pressure nylon tubing 3/8 x 25' and intake manifold ready to go. Just need pump, fittings, and switch. I found one that is activted 2-10 PSI.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Oh sh!t btw, I need some $ so if you want the pump, switch or check valve pm me. If you haven't read yet, I drilled into my water jacket and need to get another MB.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
The deal is inject the fluid before the manifold. Do whatever you want but, that is the wwat to roll. And like I said if you tap a hole you can always plug it.
Oh sh!t btw, I need some $ so if you want the pump, switch or check valve pm me. If you haven't read yet, I drilled into my water jacket and need to get another MB.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(04-19-2011, 08:54 PM)Greazzer Pic's would be great.
1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
Thanks!
1.Yes, i have WI in three cars, two diesel and one petrol.
2. Yes, it has been bulletproof, my daily drive had zero issues, it worked thru the cold winter (-20 - -35C here very long periods).
3. One nozzle is really the best way and after turbo. If you install the injector far away from cylinders it affects more as and air temp lower and closer to the cylinder more as an extra fuel.
4. Pressure sensor that activates the pump
5. Yes me like, no way i'm going back to not having WI
pics:
![[Image: water1.jpg]](http://oh1jty.toimii.net/auto/300sd/water1.jpg)
![[Image: mohko-wi1.jpg]](http://oh1jty.toimii.net/auto/mohko-wi1.jpg)
![[Image: mohko-wi2.jpg]](http://oh1jty.toimii.net/auto/mohko-wi2.jpg)
![[Image: p1050769.jpg]](http://oh1jty.toimii.net/auto/kuvat/images/autot/biturbo/p1050769.jpg)
- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
(04-19-2011, 08:54 PM)Greazzer Pic's would be great.
1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
Thanks!
1.Yes, i have WI in three cars, two diesel and one petrol.
2. Yes, it has been bulletproof, my daily drive had zero issues, it worked thru the cold winter (-20 - -35C here very long periods).
3. One nozzle is really the best way and after turbo. If you install the injector far away from cylinders it affects more as and air temp lower and closer to the cylinder more as an extra fuel.
4. Pressure sensor that activates the pump
5. Yes me like, no way i'm going back to not having WI
pics:
- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
It looks like one nozzel, after the turbo (so the water does not hit the blades). A little calculation from DevilsOwn.com and it looks like a 3.0 GPH nozzle. As for pump, what do you suggest? Thanks. I appreciate it.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
THANK YOU.
It looks like one nozzel, after the turbo (so the water does not hit the blades). A little calculation from DevilsOwn.com and it looks like a 3.0 GPH nozzle. As for pump, what do you suggest? Thanks. I appreciate it.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-04-2011, 02:59 AM #17Anyone tried and pre-turbo W/M injection? What would be a safe size nozzle to use? 1gph?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-09-2011, 12:36 AM #18Opinions of the above???
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
05-09-2011, 06:54 AM #19Being that your running that beautiful IC, water injection for you will be less about cooling the boost air and more about more power. That being said you will need to run more than 1gph to really feel anything, which I wouldn't do to that fancy turbo of yours. Also I didn't think water injection pre-IC was a good thing because of condensation.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
"Between each pair of blades on an impeller exists a wedge shaped open space which the air fills in. As the impeller is spinning, this wedge shaped air pocket is subjected to tremendous centrifugal forces and is forced outward away from the center of the impeller to the outer edges. It is here where the air begins to stack up and compress against the compressor housing forming the heat as it makes it way into the scroll.
water methanol injectionAs the compressed air heats up, it tries to further expand, making it now more difficult for the heated compressed air to pass through and exit the compressor thereby lowering the compressor efficiency. In addition, this compressed air is taking up more space within the compressor limiting new incoming air from being processed. Furthermore, the hot compressed air exiting the turbocharger is less dense as it has been heated significantly. Therefore, containing less power producing oxygen while making the engine considerably more prone to detonation.
By cooling the air as it's being compressed within the turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger, the compressed air is now substantially cooler, more dense, taking less space and moves more efficiently through the compressor allowing us to pack and process more air through the turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger. This leads us to our second benefit. Improved compressor efficiency.
All of this results in improved compressor efficiency. Because of this improved efficiency the compressor does not have to work as hard to produce the same amount of boost as without the water methanol injection. In turn it raises the maximum mass air flow of the compressor. Thereby, making a smaller turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger now perform like a larger turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger with the addition of the water methanol injection." - http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-09-2011, 02:11 PM #20From the reading I have done, Injecting a small amount pre turbo, will make the compressor act larger (not that I need that).... precooling the air charge makes the compressor even more efficient because the air will not expand as much in the housing, which lowers IAT and turbo inefficiency...
"Between each pair of blades on an impeller exists a wedge shaped open space which the air fills in. As the impeller is spinning, this wedge shaped air pocket is subjected to tremendous centrifugal forces and is forced outward away from the center of the impeller to the outer edges. It is here where the air begins to stack up and compress against the compressor housing forming the heat as it makes it way into the scroll.
water methanol injectionAs the compressed air heats up, it tries to further expand, making it now more difficult for the heated compressed air to pass through and exit the compressor thereby lowering the compressor efficiency. In addition, this compressed air is taking up more space within the compressor limiting new incoming air from being processed. Furthermore, the hot compressed air exiting the turbocharger is less dense as it has been heated significantly. Therefore, containing less power producing oxygen while making the engine considerably more prone to detonation.
By cooling the air as it's being compressed within the turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger, the compressed air is now substantially cooler, more dense, taking less space and moves more efficiently through the compressor allowing us to pack and process more air through the turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger. This leads us to our second benefit. Improved compressor efficiency.
All of this results in improved compressor efficiency. Because of this improved efficiency the compressor does not have to work as hard to produce the same amount of boost as without the water methanol injection. In turn it raises the maximum mass air flow of the compressor. Thereby, making a smaller turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger now perform like a larger turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger with the addition of the water methanol injection." - http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/a..._info.html
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
But what the hell, go for it and let us know how it turns out. (And don't use diesel this time
)
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
05-09-2011, 04:32 PM #21Seems it does the exact same thing when injected after the turbo, absorbs heat to make the air charge more dense.
But what the hell, go for it and let us know how it turns out. (And don't use diesel this time )
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
If I were to do a water meth setup, it'd be multiport for best efficiency.
yankneck696
05-09-2011, 07:07 PM #22I hate to sound like "HIM", but I don't really buy that. Smells like advertising & balderdash. It definitely will wear out the impellor & by so, reduce efficiency. Water made the Grand Canyon. It is the most powerful force on this earth.
If I were to do a water meth setup, it'd be multiport for best efficiency.
'87 300TDT "Pandora"
Garrett T-30 .55 @ 18.5psi, .970 IP @ 13.5ATDC turned up, #22 head with oblique injection, 4-puck brakes, 215 Michelins on 16x8" Bellos, updates etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZCI0BTWKx8
I considered the before turbo method for the reasons mentioned in post #20, but would rather not risk my compressor blades. Also, doesn't water expand 1,600 times its size when turned to steam, which could lead to higher outlet pressures in the turbo? Just an off-the-cuff thought, not sure how it would apply.
'87 300TDT "Pandora"
Garrett T-30 .55 @ 18.5psi, .970 IP @ 13.5ATDC turned up, #22 head with oblique injection, 4-puck brakes, 215 Michelins on 16x8" Bellos, updates etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZCI0BTWKx8
(05-09-2011, 04:32 PM)led-panzer Seems it does the exact same thing when injected after the turbo, absorbs heat to make the air charge more dense.
But what the hell, go for it and let us know how it turns out. (And don't use diesel this time
I WILL NOT EVER DO SOME DUMB SHIT LIKE THAT AGAIN!
haha
(05-09-2011, 07:07 PM)yankneck696 I hate to sound like "HIM", but I don't really buy that. Smells like advertising & balderdash. It definitely will wear out the impellor & by so, reduce efficiency. Water made the Grand Canyon. It is the most powerful force on this earth.
If I were to do a water meth setup, it'd be multiport for best efficiency.
I hear ya. They just mention that you need to atomize the water as much as possible, I am skeptical as well as you my friend...
(05-09-2011, 08:25 PM)babymog I considered the before turbo method for the reasons mentioned in post #20, but would rather not risk my compressor blades. Also, doesn't water expand 1,600 times its size when turned to steam, which could lead to higher outlet pressures in the turbo? Just an off-the-cuff thought, not sure how it would apply.
I dunno about the steam effect... Good point! I dont want to risk my turbo either!
You can follow posts here:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/forum/n...#post16736
I plane to ask lots of questions, Please Chime in!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-10-2011, 12:39 AM #24(05-09-2011, 04:32 PM)led-panzer Seems it does the exact same thing when injected after the turbo, absorbs heat to make the air charge more dense.
But what the hell, go for it and let us know how it turns out. (And don't use diesel this time
I WILL NOT EVER DO SOME DUMB SHIT LIKE THAT AGAIN!
haha
(05-09-2011, 07:07 PM)yankneck696 I hate to sound like "HIM", but I don't really buy that. Smells like advertising & balderdash. It definitely will wear out the impellor & by so, reduce efficiency. Water made the Grand Canyon. It is the most powerful force on this earth.
If I were to do a water meth setup, it'd be multiport for best efficiency.
I hear ya. They just mention that you need to atomize the water as much as possible, I am skeptical as well as you my friend...
(05-09-2011, 08:25 PM)babymog I considered the before turbo method for the reasons mentioned in post #20, but would rather not risk my compressor blades. Also, doesn't water expand 1,600 times its size when turned to steam, which could lead to higher outlet pressures in the turbo? Just an off-the-cuff thought, not sure how it would apply.
I dunno about the steam effect... Good point! I dont want to risk my turbo either!
You can follow posts here:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/forum/n...#post16736
I plane to ask lots of questions, Please Chime in!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I finally got my M+W tank. It took about 3 weeks longer than anticipated, but it was worth it. It is slightly over 3 gallons: 16" long, 7 1/2" wide, and 6 1/2" deep. I believe 3 gallons is the magical number for a full tank of fuel. I am looking for a local supplier of high pressue hose. Devil's Own sells it for $.95 a foot. So far, the project cost $23 for the tank, which seems to be fair price for a custom tank, with up to 3 fittings. I just picked up a few pieces of aluminum plate at the scrap yard so I should have this project done in 1-2 weeks. Any info or input would be appreciated. Once I find the tubing, I can intall the tank and wire. I have attached a helpful diagram for a universal set-up. Thanks.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
To yankneck696, SAAB did pre-turbo with a washer pump, and noted a 200K mile life on the turbo, meaning yes, there was wear, but the turbo would need to be replaced at 200K miles. That was with a washer fluid pump and nozzle in the 80`s. Current pumps are up to 200-250 psi, and nozzles have greatly improved in even the past few years.
(04-19-2011, 08:54 PM)Greazzer 1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?1. Yes, but not on a diesel yet
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
2. Unless I don't have fluid in the tank, or once in a blue moon when the power isn't flowing right.
3. Direct port, the terminology for into the manifold will have drawbacks. If one nozzle gets clogged, you have no way to tell unless you pull the nozzles periodically to check. Even with a flow sensor the difference in overall flow might be negligible. Unless your IM has distribution problems, you should be fine with a single nozzle.
4. Hobbs switch for boost activation, some will use the kickdown signal. You could use a WOT switch from a nitrous company, you could buy a progressive controller that uses a boost feed or map sensor signal to control the flow automatically, or just wire up a switch to power the pump on.
5. A diesel will take water/meth differently than a gas, but the results I have seen on the Devil's Own forum are nice, and several people have installed basic kits to keep WVO remnants from causing problems in their engine.
You were asking about pumps. There are several pumps out. Made by shurflo and recently aquatec. YOu can still get shurflo pumps at academy or places where RV parts are sold. They will pulse, which will lead to inconsistent flow and spray pattern from the nozzle. The aquatec, and some shurflo (was offered by AEM Electronics for a little while, and wish I could find one because the aquatec pump is just big enough to not fit where my old 100 psi shurflo pump is at) pumps are recirculation pumps, meaning that they do not pulse, and can keep a preset pressure and flow without problems. Because you are not in it for the performance, and won't be "tuning for it", meaning your tunes relies on the mix, any pump should be fine, as long as you understand that most nozzles are made to atomize at 40+ psi, and that whatever boost and check valve(solenoid doesn't count) will have to be subtracted from your pumps pressure. Meaning 22psi check valve plus 20 psi of boost makes a 100 psi pump a 58 psi to the nozzle pump. Multiple nozzles will also cause a reduce in flow, which is why DO(Devil's Own) and others recommend using the more beefy Shurflo 220 psi pump for direct port installations. It is beefier than the 100 and 150 psi shuflo and the new 150-250 psi aquatec.
Last, be careful of running dry with that big tank. If you are mounting it so that the longer of the two (length and width) is parallel with the length of the car so that acceleration pushes the fluid back to the pump pickup point you should be fine, but if you notice that when the tank is low you lose flow, you might want to look into a surge tank. A small tank below the big tank fed by gravity with a vent hose on top of the smaller tank fed back to the top of the larger tank, or a tank mounted up front fed by the rear tank fed by a washer pump.
This became a novel, but hope it helped.
To Captain America, Water meth with a modern pump and small nozzle in the right place will atomize to a lower micron than your air filter will clean. If you don't want the power, and have a decent intercooler, it is probably not for you. The closer the nozzle is to the intake manifold, the less chance it (methanol) has to cool the air. Mounting the nozzle in a place with little turbulence is the most important.
To yankneck696, SAAB did pre-turbo with a washer pump, and noted a 200K mile life on the turbo, meaning yes, there was wear, but the turbo would need to be replaced at 200K miles. That was with a washer fluid pump and nozzle in the 80`s. Current pumps are up to 200-250 psi, and nozzles have greatly improved in even the past few years.
(04-19-2011, 08:54 PM)Greazzer 1. Has anyone installed a W+M system?1. Yes, but not on a diesel yet
2. Does it work perfectly everytime?
3. Does one install the nozzle at the turbo or is there 5 seperate nozzles for each lead into the manifold.
4. How do you set up an automatic "trigger" to activate the system, e.g., hitting 2,000 rpm's or certain PSI from the turbo or a certain speed?
5. For those that have a W+M system, do you like it?
2. Unless I don't have fluid in the tank, or once in a blue moon when the power isn't flowing right.
3. Direct port, the terminology for into the manifold will have drawbacks. If one nozzle gets clogged, you have no way to tell unless you pull the nozzles periodically to check. Even with a flow sensor the difference in overall flow might be negligible. Unless your IM has distribution problems, you should be fine with a single nozzle.
4. Hobbs switch for boost activation, some will use the kickdown signal. You could use a WOT switch from a nitrous company, you could buy a progressive controller that uses a boost feed or map sensor signal to control the flow automatically, or just wire up a switch to power the pump on.
5. A diesel will take water/meth differently than a gas, but the results I have seen on the Devil's Own forum are nice, and several people have installed basic kits to keep WVO remnants from causing problems in their engine.
You were asking about pumps. There are several pumps out. Made by shurflo and recently aquatec. YOu can still get shurflo pumps at academy or places where RV parts are sold. They will pulse, which will lead to inconsistent flow and spray pattern from the nozzle. The aquatec, and some shurflo (was offered by AEM Electronics for a little while, and wish I could find one because the aquatec pump is just big enough to not fit where my old 100 psi shurflo pump is at) pumps are recirculation pumps, meaning that they do not pulse, and can keep a preset pressure and flow without problems. Because you are not in it for the performance, and won't be "tuning for it", meaning your tunes relies on the mix, any pump should be fine, as long as you understand that most nozzles are made to atomize at 40+ psi, and that whatever boost and check valve(solenoid doesn't count) will have to be subtracted from your pumps pressure. Meaning 22psi check valve plus 20 psi of boost makes a 100 psi pump a 58 psi to the nozzle pump. Multiple nozzles will also cause a reduce in flow, which is why DO(Devil's Own) and others recommend using the more beefy Shurflo 220 psi pump for direct port installations. It is beefier than the 100 and 150 psi shuflo and the new 150-250 psi aquatec.
Last, be careful of running dry with that big tank. If you are mounting it so that the longer of the two (length and width) is parallel with the length of the car so that acceleration pushes the fluid back to the pump pickup point you should be fine, but if you notice that when the tank is low you lose flow, you might want to look into a surge tank. A small tank below the big tank fed by gravity with a vent hose on top of the smaller tank fed back to the top of the larger tank, or a tank mounted up front fed by the rear tank fed by a washer pump.
This became a novel, but hope it helped.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a Garrett T3 with a 60 trim comp wheel that should be plenty efficient, that will feed straight into a A/W intercooler...
I am not sure if water meth injection will benefit and WHERE I should put the nozzles...
You can look at the Turbo and IC here: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid29143
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-31-2011, 12:53 AM #27Dust,
Thanks for the reply.
I have a Garrett T3 with a 60 trim comp wheel that should be plenty efficient, that will feed straight into a A/W intercooler...
I am not sure if water meth injection will benefit and WHERE I should put the nozzles...
You can look at the Turbo and IC here: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid29143
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
I was reading a thread on the aquamist forum, and comments were made about using water/meth in A/W intercoolers. It should work just the same as spraying pre-intercooler, with the added benefit of slightly reduced water temps. The evaporation of the water/meth will suck the heat out of the intercooler, and that will also remove some heat from the coolant you are using. After the turbo would be best, but it seems that you would need to either tap the turbo or IC to get the spray distributed, or tap into or before the runners on the post IC side. That is a convoluted ICIM contraption. Is there even flow after the IC before the runners where you could tap three holes? I can't tell from the pics because there doesn't seem to be a pic of the underside of the IM.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-31-2011, 03:15 AM #29Cant get a good pic of the bottom of the IM right now... It looks much like the top. Tapping the compressor housing for nozzle is easiest, but I could put nozzles before the IC or after, doesn't matter. I will be monitoring IAT's before and after IC and water temps before and after to see whats happening...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Actually, I am getting back on track. I was pretty good with the projects. For instance, I did the battery relocation to the trunk in a custom made battery box and that took about a month to complete, and then I started branching out to a bunch of projects, but I got very little COMPLETED. I really hate starting like gang-busters, then never finishing the last 20%. Now, to the RE-Cap: I got the tank and I had the mounting plate and bracket made. I just had the lower "legs" welded so that it will sit level in the trunk in the side compartment (driver's side, opposite of the battery box, trying to balance out the weight in the trunk). I found an ideal spot for the pump -- under the back seat. I got gravity feed, its hidden, and I can insulate it so that it will not create any noise pollution. Right now I am looking for the right pump, hi-pressure line, nozzles, and any other miscellanous stuff. I made it a point to get this done this year no matter what. The problem is I am also in the middle of the 150 AMP conversion, Electric Water Pump Conversion, 4-speed conversion, relocation of the oil filter housing conversion, electric vacuum pump, electric power steering, and the list goes on. Having said all this, I will post some pictures in the coming weeks on the M+W system COMPLETED.
Thanks
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Hey, how's things overseas?
Actually, I am getting back on track. I was pretty good with the projects. For instance, I did the battery relocation to the trunk in a custom made battery box and that took about a month to complete, and then I started branching out to a bunch of projects, but I got very little COMPLETED. I really hate starting like gang-busters, then never finishing the last 20%. Now, to the RE-Cap: I got the tank and I had the mounting plate and bracket made. I just had the lower "legs" welded so that it will sit level in the trunk in the side compartment (driver's side, opposite of the battery box, trying to balance out the weight in the trunk). I found an ideal spot for the pump -- under the back seat. I got gravity feed, its hidden, and I can insulate it so that it will not create any noise pollution. Right now I am looking for the right pump, hi-pressure line, nozzles, and any other miscellanous stuff. I made it a point to get this done this year no matter what. The problem is I am also in the middle of the 150 AMP conversion, Electric Water Pump Conversion, 4-speed conversion, relocation of the oil filter housing conversion, electric vacuum pump, electric power steering, and the list goes on. Having said all this, I will post some pictures in the coming weeks on the M+W system COMPLETED.
Thanks
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Things have calmed down a bit over here, aside from the 5.4 earthquake in the typhoon, and the 30 second shake this morning to wake me up.
There are several pumps of all flavors floating around the used market, or you can buy new from several places. I have recently been snooping around, and can send you some links for pumps, kits, controllers etc if you are interested.
Things have calmed down a bit over here, aside from the 5.4 earthquake in the typhoon, and the 30 second shake this morning to wake me up.
Keep us up to date on all the electric conversions!
I hope to get the same move done with my filter housing in the next couple weeks...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
10-20-2011, 04:03 PM #33Dang Greazzer, That's a lot! I have been up to a bunch of projects too... non of which included the Benz
Keep us up to date on all the electric conversions!
I hope to get the same move done with my filter housing in the next couple weeks...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Let me get some snappies. I am waiting until my car gets out of the shop with the new paint. The water actually cleaned out the engine (internals) a bunch. I will post them in the Sleeper Part Duex Thread.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(04-19-2011, 09:51 PM)Greazzer Can you please send me some pictures, especially where your nozzle is placed. I assume it is plumbed at the turbo somewhere in particular? I guess all the components are off the shelf and plug-and-play? I am just scared to drill and tap a hole into my turbo. Once I start drilling, I am committed and I do not like that scenario.
Your thoughts?
How long have you been running it?
I have been burning WVO for about 3 years. I have not seen any damage or problems with my engine except very mild junk on the heat shields when I pull the injectors for inspection. I am looking for W+M's cleaning & increased HP properties.
do you ever borescope your prechambers to see if there is any clogging or build up or cracking? I am convinced crappy wvo conversion shotgunned 3 617's I've seen lately. they all had the tips missing from the prechambers which hammered the hell out of the piston and head...
Austincarnut
09-06-2013, 06:51 PM #36(04-19-2011, 09:51 PM)Greazzer Can you please send me some pictures, especially where your nozzle is placed. I assume it is plumbed at the turbo somewhere in particular? I guess all the components are off the shelf and plug-and-play? I am just scared to drill and tap a hole into my turbo. Once I start drilling, I am committed and I do not like that scenario.
Your thoughts?
How long have you been running it?
I have been burning WVO for about 3 years. I have not seen any damage or problems with my engine except very mild junk on the heat shields when I pull the injectors for inspection. I am looking for W+M's cleaning & increased HP properties.
do you ever borescope your prechambers to see if there is any clogging or build up or cracking? I am convinced crappy wvo conversion shotgunned 3 617's I've seen lately. they all had the tips missing from the prechambers which hammered the hell out of the piston and head...
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I haven't peeked behind the curtin BUT I am positive that water actually cleans out the junk. I can tell you that my current DD had very low compresson, eg. borderline 300, some dipped lower by a hair. Running just plain jane water and after 2 weeks, I got really decent combustion psi's. And, I checked with the same exact 2 gauages so maybe both were wrong on the pre and post water inspections. Highly unlikely in my book. As for water and wvo burning, it cleans out the junk. I ran wvo in the same car and never any issues and once I totaled it and yanked the injectors before it was turned into bottle caps and toaster ovens, those pre-chambers looked fine to me. Of course, a borescope would have been more scientific.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
'85 300CD
Saw this on another board. A 200psi pump for $30 sounds pretty good!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
'85 300CD
(09-13-2013, 10:15 PM)Tmadia Saw this on another board. A 200psi pump for $30 sounds pretty good!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
What about something along those lines as far as the pump, and then using the stock washer bottle as the tank? Anything wrong with that?
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
09-14-2013, 02:37 PM #39(09-13-2013, 10:15 PM)Tmadia Saw this on another board. A 200psi pump for $30 sounds pretty good!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
What about something along those lines as far as the pump, and then using the stock washer bottle as the tank? Anything wrong with that?
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I use a MB W123 Washer Resevoir currently. This is the biggest one W123 had. It's 1+ gallon. It's OK for 2 days before re-fill. Devils Own products are very nice and priced reasonably.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(09-14-2013, 02:37 PM)mike-81-240d(09-13-2013, 10:15 PM)Tmadia Saw this on another board. A 200psi pump for $30 sounds pretty good!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
What about something along those lines as far as the pump, and then using the stock washer bottle as the tank? Anything wrong with that?
I think that would work just fine.
'85 300CD
(09-14-2013, 02:37 PM)mike-81-240d(09-13-2013, 10:15 PM)Tmadia Saw this on another board. A 200psi pump for $30 sounds pretty good!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ulka-Water-Pump-...3f2744f928
Here is the original thread:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2720
What about something along those lines as far as the pump, and then using the stock washer bottle as the tank? Anything wrong with that?
I think that would work just fine.
'85 300CD
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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