No power off the start
No power off the start
06-04-2011, 11:08 AM
#1
Hey all My 1980 300sd just got a 1983 motor. I modded what was needed. I pulled the pump to replace gasket. Timed the crank and pump. Did the drip test.The problem i am having is when i depress the acc. pedal it takes a bit longer to get going. Turbo lag ? Not enough boost. But when it gets rolling is has a lot of pickup. I rotated the pump towards the motor about 4mm from the lil mark at pump mount. Very sluggish. Then i went 4mm away from motor. Seemed a lil better. Is the the right thing to do. Or could my turbo be full of carbon, blow off valve inop. What else can i do to the pump after the drip test to dial it in better. I am learning a lil at a time . Benz newbie. It is a slug now. Thanks Quinn
06-04-2011, 01:36 PM
#2
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
06-04-2011, 01:36 PM #2Is your alda connected to the manifold?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
06-04-2011, 03:48 PM
#3
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-04-2011, 03:48 PM #3Quinn,
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
06-04-2011, 05:07 PM
#4
(06-04-2011, 03:48 PM)Captain America Quinn,
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
I did the drip set up at 24 BTC. I fixed a few small fuel leaks. It is still crappy and i dont know about ALDA enough to know where and how to adjust it. The idle is really rough. shaking alot. The motor smoothes out at higher rpms . I'm stuck w/o a car till i figure it out but not having any luck. What could you guys tell me about the stamped mark on the front cover that the inj. pump mounts to and what if i'm a mm or two away from it. thanks
(06-04-2011, 01:36 PM)led-panzer Is your alda connected to the manifold?
I really dont know much about ALDA. Idle shaking real bad. pump timed to 24 btc. Ok . I have crankshaft @ 24 degrees btc. Pump timed and installed and tightend up the the stamp marks. I do the drip test when the cam lobes are up and valves closed and # one cyl. should be tdc. Then i do the drip test . Or have crankshaft @ 24 degrees and do the drip test. or is it the same.
This post was last modified: 06-04-2011, 05:16 PM by chach007.
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
(06-04-2011, 03:48 PM)Captain America Quinn,
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
I did the drip set up at 24 BTC. I fixed a few small fuel leaks. It is still crappy and i dont know about ALDA enough to know where and how to adjust it. The idle is really rough. shaking alot. The motor smoothes out at higher rpms . I'm stuck w/o a car till i figure it out but not having any luck. What could you guys tell me about the stamped mark on the front cover that the inj. pump mounts to and what if i'm a mm or two away from it. thanks
(06-04-2011, 01:36 PM)led-panzer Is your alda connected to the manifold?
I really dont know much about ALDA. Idle shaking real bad. pump timed to 24 btc. Ok . I have crankshaft @ 24 degrees btc. Pump timed and installed and tightend up the the stamp marks. I do the drip test when the cam lobes are up and valves closed and # one cyl. should be tdc. Then i do the drip test . Or have crankshaft @ 24 degrees and do the drip test. or is it the same.
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
06-04-2011, 07:15 PM
#5
(06-04-2011, 05:07 PM)chach007(06-04-2011, 03:48 PM)Captain America Quinn,
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
I did the drip set up at 24 BTC. I fixed a few small fuel leaks. It is still crappy and i dont know about ALDA enough to know where and how to adjust it. The idle is really rough. shaking alot. The motor smoothes out at higher rpms . I'm stuck w/o a car till i figure it out but not having any luck. What could you guys tell me about the stamped mark on the front cover that the inj. pump mounts to and what if i'm a mm or two away from it. thanks
(06-04-2011, 01:36 PM)led-panzer Is your alda connected to the manifold?
I really dont know much about ALDA. Idle shaking real bad. pump timed to 24 btc. Ok . I have crankshaft @ 24 degrees btc. Pump timed and installed and tightend up the the stamp marks. I do the drip test when the cam lobes are up and valves closed and # one cyl. should be tdc. Then i do the drip test . Or have crankshaft @ 24 degrees and do the drip test. or is it the same.
O.K. I did it all over . I loosened the pump and rotated it until i got a one second drip from tool.the timing is 24 BTDC. It ran at idle much better. But still a rough idle. When i take off from a stop i have to floor it .It takes about fifty feet or six seconds for anything to pickup on acceleration. I drove it home from the shop and every stop sign i dreaded because it takes so long to get rollin. There is a Screw on the back of the pump at the plate. What is it?
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
(06-04-2011, 05:07 PM)chach007(06-04-2011, 03:48 PM)Captain America Quinn,
You should be drip timing the pump to 24 or 26 degrees BTDC. There is nothing else to do unless you open it up
I did the drip set up at 24 BTC. I fixed a few small fuel leaks. It is still crappy and i dont know about ALDA enough to know where and how to adjust it. The idle is really rough. shaking alot. The motor smoothes out at higher rpms . I'm stuck w/o a car till i figure it out but not having any luck. What could you guys tell me about the stamped mark on the front cover that the inj. pump mounts to and what if i'm a mm or two away from it. thanks
(06-04-2011, 01:36 PM)led-panzer Is your alda connected to the manifold?
I really dont know much about ALDA. Idle shaking real bad. pump timed to 24 btc. Ok . I have crankshaft @ 24 degrees btc. Pump timed and installed and tightend up the the stamp marks. I do the drip test when the cam lobes are up and valves closed and # one cyl. should be tdc. Then i do the drip test . Or have crankshaft @ 24 degrees and do the drip test. or is it the same.
O.K. I did it all over . I loosened the pump and rotated it until i got a one second drip from tool.the timing is 24 BTDC. It ran at idle much better. But still a rough idle. When i take off from a stop i have to floor it .It takes about fifty feet or six seconds for anything to pickup on acceleration. I drove it home from the shop and every stop sign i dreaded because it takes so long to get rollin. There is a Screw on the back of the pump at the plate. What is it?
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
06-04-2011, 08:08 PM
#6
Is there smoke? If so, what color?
Is this the first time you have drivin with this 1982 617?
The bolt on the back of the pump is the rack damper... It helps reduce engine shake at idle. Try turning it in, if you go to far, it will be hard to start.
Have the valves been adjusted?
Plenty of fuel with clean filters?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
06-04-2011, 08:08 PM #6Ok hold on. There is only ONE way to time the pump.... Cylinder 1 @ 24 degrees BTDC at the crank... Yes both valves would be closed... Measuring the marks will do nothing for you, especially dependent on timing chain stretch. fuel should drip one drop per second roughly.
Is there smoke? If so, what color?
Is this the first time you have drivin with this 1982 617?
The bolt on the back of the pump is the rack damper... It helps reduce engine shake at idle. Try turning it in, if you go to far, it will be hard to start.
Have the valves been adjusted?
Plenty of fuel with clean filters?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
06-04-2011, 08:50 PM
#7
There should be a big square thing on top of the injection pump with a line running to the intake manifold thats the ALDA
on top of it there should be a 10mm nut on a threaded shaft with a slat for a screw driver ion it loosen the nut turn the screw ccw like you are loosening it turn it gently if it stops don't force it any more! tighten the 10mm lock nut back down and it should increase off boost fueling! and help the turbo spool faster! It may be under a black cap
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-04-2011, 08:50 PM #7sounds like the ALDA on top of the pump is adjusted very lean and it would dog until it made enough boost
There should be a big square thing on top of the injection pump with a line running to the intake manifold thats the ALDA
on top of it there should be a 10mm nut on a threaded shaft with a slat for a screw driver ion it loosen the nut turn the screw ccw like you are loosening it turn it gently if it stops don't force it any more! tighten the 10mm lock nut back down and it should increase off boost fueling! and help the turbo spool faster! It may be under a black cap
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
06-05-2011, 01:03 AM
#8
first fix the rough idle and timing, then mess with ALDA.
How does it start? Do all cylinders fire up instantly?
If not check for fuel leaks again.
The small return lines between the injectors are dry?
As said before, filters are o.k.? valve clearance?
The rack damper has nothing to do with "rough" idle rather with "smooth" shaking at idle, don't turn it now.
How are your injectors/nozzles?
First get it running correctly then go into ALDA and other possible issues.
Tom
Hi,
first fix the rough idle and timing, then mess with ALDA.
How does it start? Do all cylinders fire up instantly?
If not check for fuel leaks again.
The small return lines between the injectors are dry?
As said before, filters are o.k.? valve clearance?
The rack damper has nothing to do with "rough" idle rather with "smooth" shaking at idle, don't turn it now.
How are your injectors/nozzles?
First get it running correctly then go into ALDA and other possible issues.
Tom
06-05-2011, 10:28 PM
#10
Listen to Tom. Do the basic adj. FIRST!! Also a stuck open egr valve can cause hard start,smoking,poor idle,lack of low end take off power. Easy test,engine off,install hose to egr,pull vac.,(can be done with out tools),Quickly pull hose from egr, should hear clack shut. Check both cold and hot .
06-05-2011, 11:00 PM
#11
(06-04-2011, 08:08 PM)Captain America Ok hold on. There is only ONE way to time the pump.... Cylinder 1 @ 24 degrees BTDC at the crank... Yes both valves would be closed... Measuring the marks will do nothing for you, especially dependent on timing chain stretch. fuel should drip one drop per second roughly.
Is there smoke? If so, what color?
Is this the first time you have drivin with this 1982 617?
The bolt on the back of the pump is the rack damper... It helps reduce engine shake at idle. Try turning it in, if you go to far, it will be hard to start.
Have the valves been adjusted?
Plenty of fuel with clean filters?
Hey guys ,all who chimed in i really dig it. The valves are done the ALDA banjo was pluged. I also adjusted the alda wide open.The guy who had this motor before had a dog of a ride. But now puuuurrrrsss like a kitten Runs great now. There are things here and there that can make these motors run better. I figure the tricks out as i go. The screw on the rear of the pump is somthing to adjust also but how much. I need a book on just the pump . But anyways thanks again Quinn
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
(06-04-2011, 08:08 PM)Captain America Ok hold on. There is only ONE way to time the pump.... Cylinder 1 @ 24 degrees BTDC at the crank... Yes both valves would be closed... Measuring the marks will do nothing for you, especially dependent on timing chain stretch. fuel should drip one drop per second roughly.
Is there smoke? If so, what color?
Is this the first time you have drivin with this 1982 617?
The bolt on the back of the pump is the rack damper... It helps reduce engine shake at idle. Try turning it in, if you go to far, it will be hard to start.
Have the valves been adjusted?
Plenty of fuel with clean filters?
Hey guys ,all who chimed in i really dig it. The valves are done the ALDA banjo was pluged. I also adjusted the alda wide open.The guy who had this motor before had a dog of a ride. But now puuuurrrrsss like a kitten Runs great now. There are things here and there that can make these motors run better. I figure the tricks out as i go. The screw on the rear of the pump is somthing to adjust also but how much. I need a book on just the pump . But anyways thanks again Quinn
1980 300 SD,recent 1983 motor install. 2005 Triumph Bonneville.
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