Engine Problems
Engine Problems
05-17-2011, 12:09 AM
#1
thanks in advance.
Ok soo im new here but ive been dealing with mercedes diesels for awhile but my car all of the sudden is acting up. its been spewing white smoke at start up and black smoke on acceleration. as well as a LOT of oil in the air cleaner. i can post vids or pictures if anyone wants.
thanks in advance.
05-19-2011, 10:12 AM
#4
Is there a lot of blow by?
Is it eating coolant?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-19-2011, 10:12 AM #4How does it cold start?
Is there a lot of blow by?
Is it eating coolant?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
05-19-2011, 09:14 PM
#5
there was TONS of blow by but it seams to have slowed down a little
and it hasnt used an ounce of coolant
It starts horrible when cold lots of white smoke and sounds like its missing on 2 cylinders till it gets warm. when its warm it runs smooth but has a knock and on first acceleration lots of white smoke.
there was TONS of blow by but it seams to have slowed down a little
and it hasnt used an ounce of coolant
05-20-2011, 01:59 PM
#8
You should probly do a compression test. That should tell you a lot.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-20-2011, 01:59 PM #8Glow Plugs will cause the whit smoke and terrible startup. If it is not using coolant then I would assume that the head gasket is good.
You should probly do a compression test. That should tell you a lot.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
05-21-2011, 01:16 PM
#10
(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?
and ill probably do a compression test today. what am i looking for? and do i pull the injectors to do the test?
to test glow plugs professionally you want to see Ampere.
A garage test is to touch them after glowing for some time without starting on a cold engine.
A good compression check is through the glow plug holes, as you don't have to mess with injector lines and new heat shields.
You want to see almost equal pressure (everything more than 23-25 is o.k.)
Tom
(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?
and ill probably do a compression test today. what am i looking for? and do i pull the injectors to do the test?
to test glow plugs professionally you want to see Ampere.
A garage test is to touch them after glowing for some time without starting on a cold engine.
A good compression check is through the glow plug holes, as you don't have to mess with injector lines and new heat shields.
You want to see almost equal pressure (everything more than 23-25 is o.k.)
Tom
05-22-2011, 08:31 AM
#11
(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?...
Remove the electric connectors from all glow plugs and then measure the resistance of each glow plug.
Before that check the resistance of your measuring cables so you can calculate the real resistance for every glow plug.
It should be around 1-3 Ohm.
Gruß Volker
(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?...
Remove the electric connectors from all glow plugs and then measure the resistance of each glow plug.
Before that check the resistance of your measuring cables so you can calculate the real resistance for every glow plug.
It should be around 1-3 Ohm.
Gruß Volker
06-01-2011, 02:23 AM
#13
(05-22-2011, 08:31 AM)Volker407Best test;always under normal load. Disconnect glow plug cable at timer,insulate stiff wire(long enough to pass through injector steel lines) vac. hose works good,put loop on each end of wire,connect push button switch with cable clips to one end,touch other end to glow plug,other end of switch wire connect to battery,connect amp gauge.Push button,read amps,Normal 20 amps each.May start out at 9 amps and jump to near 20 amps thats ok,hold approx.4 Sec.each.Time to test all, 3 min.total. Can do this test if careful without tester. Glow plugs will not draw current if burned out. Ohm meter will often trace across carbon on glow plug giving false reading. All mechanics in shop used above method.(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?...
Remove the electric connectors from all glow plugs and then measure the resistance of each glow plug.
Before that check the resistance of your measuring cables so you can calculate the real resistance for every glow plug.
It should be around 1-3 Ohm.
Gruß Volker
(05-20-2011, 11:04 AM)Treg83 is it common for both these to go bad at the same time? and can that cause knocking in one of the cylinders?
Injector nozzle hanging can cause knocking,and will many times lesson or seem to disappear on increasing rpm. Easy test,crack each inj. line open,at idle,one at a time ,listen if knock stops,if not retighten,move to next injector.
This post was last modified: 06-01-2011, 02:38 AM by Hercules.
(05-22-2011, 08:31 AM)Volker407Best test;always under normal load. Disconnect glow plug cable at timer,insulate stiff wire(long enough to pass through injector steel lines) vac. hose works good,put loop on each end of wire,connect push button switch with cable clips to one end,touch other end to glow plug,other end of switch wire connect to battery,connect amp gauge.Push button,read amps,Normal 20 amps each.May start out at 9 amps and jump to near 20 amps thats ok,hold approx.4 Sec.each.Time to test all, 3 min.total. Can do this test if careful without tester. Glow plugs will not draw current if burned out. Ohm meter will often trace across carbon on glow plug giving false reading. All mechanics in shop used above method.(05-21-2011, 12:14 PM)Treg83 Ok soo i know that you test the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter but how?...
Remove the electric connectors from all glow plugs and then measure the resistance of each glow plug.
Before that check the resistance of your measuring cables so you can calculate the real resistance for every glow plug.
It should be around 1-3 Ohm.
Gruß Volker
(05-20-2011, 11:04 AM)Treg83 is it common for both these to go bad at the same time? and can that cause knocking in one of the cylinders?
Injector nozzle hanging can cause knocking,and will many times lesson or seem to disappear on increasing rpm. Easy test,crack each inj. line open,at idle,one at a time ,listen if knock stops,if not retighten,move to next injector.
06-06-2011, 10:47 AM
#15
(06-05-2011, 06:11 PM)ronnie I have to wonder about the "lots of oil" in the air cleaner. It could be a broken/stuck ring causing more then normal blowby. As mentioned a compression test may well be in order.
More like leaking oil seperator.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-05-2011, 06:11 PM)ronnie I have to wonder about the "lots of oil" in the air cleaner. It could be a broken/stuck ring causing more then normal blowby. As mentioned a compression test may well be in order.
More like leaking oil seperator.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
06-17-2011, 03:25 AM
#16
(06-06-2011, 10:47 AM)winmuttI did a G wagon W460 last month which had exactly the same symptoms and the blowby was so bad that opening the oil cap sounded like the exhaust pipe had been connected to the cam cover..(06-05-2011, 06:11 PM)ronnie I have to wonder about the "lots of oil" in the air cleaner. It could be a broken/stuck ring causing more then normal blowby. As mentioned a compression test may well be in order.
More like leaking oil seperator.
.I pulled the head to investigate the bore condition and when i went to overhaul the head I found the valve guides were all moving up and down with the valves.
Not a rare occurrence and guides can be punched into place quickly but this had been happening for so long that the guide bores in the head were worn beyond repair . (heads are available new with valves from aftermarket manufacturers $$)
The local wrecker had a head so that fixed that problem and while the head was off I changed the piston rings which fixed everything .
(06-06-2011, 10:47 AM)winmuttI did a G wagon W460 last month which had exactly the same symptoms and the blowby was so bad that opening the oil cap sounded like the exhaust pipe had been connected to the cam cover..(06-05-2011, 06:11 PM)ronnie I have to wonder about the "lots of oil" in the air cleaner. It could be a broken/stuck ring causing more then normal blowby. As mentioned a compression test may well be in order.
More like leaking oil seperator.
.I pulled the head to investigate the bore condition and when i went to overhaul the head I found the valve guides were all moving up and down with the valves.
Not a rare occurrence and guides can be punched into place quickly but this had been happening for so long that the guide bores in the head were worn beyond repair . (heads are available new with valves from aftermarket manufacturers $$)
The local wrecker had a head so that fixed that problem and while the head was off I changed the piston rings which fixed everything .
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