H&R springs all around on the W210
H&R springs all around on the W210
I ordered a set of H&R springs. I already have Bilstein sport shocks so the lower springs should compliment them well.
I'll post before and after shots and driving impressions.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Hey guys, I thought I'd work on other parts of the car while I was working on the engine.
I ordered a set of H&R springs. I already have Bilstein sport shocks so the lower springs should compliment them well.
I'll post before and after shots and driving impressions.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Nice! I'm looking forward to pics and results!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
And i love how it rides, use this combo on all of my mercedes´s.
Its pretty stiff, but u still get MUCH comfort.
Also have strutbrace in the engine bay and in trunk..( these are from wiechers if i dont remeber wrong) the strutbraces maked a big change for me!
I have H&R 30mm without rubberpads. and bilstein b8/sprint shocks.
And i love how it rides, use this combo on all of my mercedes´s.
Its pretty stiff, but u still get MUCH comfort.
Also have strutbrace in the engine bay and in trunk..( these are from wiechers if i dont remeber wrong) the strutbraces maked a big change for me!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Brabus, which car are you talking about? Thanks.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
My 98 E230 Turbo. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/a...151551.jpg
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Ah, that looks great! That's what I want for my car.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
The car is avantgarde with sport suspension from the factory. But the front is really high, so I suspect the shocks have been swapped to classic spec or the adjustment rubbers are in the wrong position... Do I blame german incompetence, lazyness or was the previous owner a cheapskate.
So... I ordered Bilstein B8 shocks for front and H&R 35mm sport springs all round. Shouldn't lower the car that much overall, but I guess the car will feel a bit better.
I was supposed to make the rear end more stiff with a set of polyurethane bushings and adjustable upper control arms. The company that made and sold them, doesn't sell them at the moment, since they were too expensive to manufacture.
Since the rear end doesn't have economically feasible sport shocks available (ALD). Has anyone tried reversed spring raisers, etc. to force the rear end down a bit to try and stiffen things up? I reckon this makes the rear shocks gather a little more pressure to lift the rear to the correct height? I think you can then adjust the actuator arm to fine tune the rear height?
Oh, my braking efficiency in the last MOT was 60% in the front and has gone worse by feel. I ordered EBC RedStuff pads, but the discs are a bit worn, anyone have experience with 'black diamond'? Or is there a better (don't have the $$$ for Brembo) option?
blackslide
05-30-2012, 02:10 AM #8I had an accident with my W210 320CDI estate, and the rear took a hit straight in the right rear wheel. The rear subrframe is dislocated and I need to take everything apart, to check what needs to be replaced. The toe in is correct, but cambers don't match and the rear feels out of line, when driving on uneven surfaces.
The car is avantgarde with sport suspension from the factory. But the front is really high, so I suspect the shocks have been swapped to classic spec or the adjustment rubbers are in the wrong position... Do I blame german incompetence, lazyness or was the previous owner a cheapskate.
So... I ordered Bilstein B8 shocks for front and H&R 35mm sport springs all round. Shouldn't lower the car that much overall, but I guess the car will feel a bit better.
I was supposed to make the rear end more stiff with a set of polyurethane bushings and adjustable upper control arms. The company that made and sold them, doesn't sell them at the moment, since they were too expensive to manufacture.
Since the rear end doesn't have economically feasible sport shocks available (ALD). Has anyone tried reversed spring raisers, etc. to force the rear end down a bit to try and stiffen things up? I reckon this makes the rear shocks gather a little more pressure to lift the rear to the correct height? I think you can then adjust the actuator arm to fine tune the rear height?
Oh, my braking efficiency in the last MOT was 60% in the front and has gone worse by feel. I ordered EBC RedStuff pads, but the discs are a bit worn, anyone have experience with 'black diamond'? Or is there a better (don't have the $$$ for Brembo) option?
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