STD Maintenance General Who's Pulled A Few W123 Engine's?

Who's Pulled A Few W123 Engine's?

Who's Pulled A Few W123 Engine's?

 
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Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
07-21-2011, 10:27 AM #1
So, I'm in the middle of a engine swap on my family's wagon and I've been slacking (100+ degree heat here in the valley of the sun). Pretty much everything is disco'd except, the torque converter bolts, the drive shaft tensioning nut, drive shaft bolts, the trasmission cooler lines, shifter linkage, and mounting bolts. Any advice to make my life easier? My plan is too pull the engine and transmission out together and then pull the transmission off and move it to the new engine and then put it all back in minus SLS.
Kozuka
07-21-2011, 10:27 AM #1

So, I'm in the middle of a engine swap on my family's wagon and I've been slacking (100+ degree heat here in the valley of the sun). Pretty much everything is disco'd except, the torque converter bolts, the drive shaft tensioning nut, drive shaft bolts, the trasmission cooler lines, shifter linkage, and mounting bolts. Any advice to make my life easier? My plan is too pull the engine and transmission out together and then pull the transmission off and move it to the new engine and then put it all back in minus SLS.

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
07-21-2011, 02:30 PM #2
I've done 2 now.... It's pretty simple.

Don't forget about power steering lines, speedo cable/wire, oil pressure tube/wire,

pull the radiator and oil cooler to make it easy.

You will have to pull the motor almost straight up out of the engine bay, taking the front wheels off the car and lowering it will help tons.


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
07-21-2011, 02:30 PM #2

I've done 2 now.... It's pretty simple.

Don't forget about power steering lines, speedo cable/wire, oil pressure tube/wire,

pull the radiator and oil cooler to make it easy.

You will have to pull the motor almost straight up out of the engine bay, taking the front wheels off the car and lowering it will help tons.



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
07-21-2011, 03:40 PM #3
If I ever do it again I will pull the transmission so I can lift the engine straight up! Big Grin

For the oil line to the gauge off the back of the oil filter housing use a a good line wrench I have seen an 11mm and 12 mm used on the fitting. Its really easy to strip out and a new line is like $20-$40Confused

It took me 30min to pull the 4spd transmission out of my 240d

We change the engine in my dads 83 300d with out pulling or disconnecting the auto transmission just unbolted it and the TC and pulled the engine forward 3 inches and lifted it out we had a jack and some boards under the transmission to hold it in place
This post was last modified: 07-21-2011, 03:52 PM by willbhere4u.

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-21-2011, 03:40 PM #3

If I ever do it again I will pull the transmission so I can lift the engine straight up! Big Grin

For the oil line to the gauge off the back of the oil filter housing use a a good line wrench I have seen an 11mm and 12 mm used on the fitting. Its really easy to strip out and a new line is like $20-$40Confused

It took me 30min to pull the 4spd transmission out of my 240d

We change the engine in my dads 83 300d with out pulling or disconnecting the auto transmission just unbolted it and the TC and pulled the engine forward 3 inches and lifted it out we had a jack and some boards under the transmission to hold it in place


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
07-26-2011, 11:47 AM #4
Last 2 that I've pulled, I've cut the rad support out of the car! :p

1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
07-26-2011, 11:47 AM #4

Last 2 that I've pulled, I've cut the rad support out of the car! :p


1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
07-26-2011, 11:36 PM #5
Murderer!


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
07-26-2011, 11:36 PM #5

Murderer!



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
07-27-2011, 12:08 AM #6
one was sideswiped and crushed-in on the drivers side, one had so much rot you could flinstone in the back seat. Sad

1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
07-27-2011, 12:08 AM #6

one was sideswiped and crushed-in on the drivers side, one had so much rot you could flinstone in the back seat. Sad


1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

JB3
Superturbo

1,795
07-27-2011, 10:43 AM #7
get some plastic and some zip ties, then each thing you unhook or uncover, like the intake, coolant ports, oil ports, ect, you can cover, and zip tie the cover snug. Worth it to prevent FOD, had a 10mm nut destroy an engine in my mercury once, was not fun.

Also check directly under the motor for a 3rd engine mount directly to the cross member, I don't think the 300s have them if I can remember, but its on the 240s, and is easy to overlook.

1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

JB3
07-27-2011, 10:43 AM #7

get some plastic and some zip ties, then each thing you unhook or uncover, like the intake, coolant ports, oil ports, ect, you can cover, and zip tie the cover snug. Worth it to prevent FOD, had a 10mm nut destroy an engine in my mercury once, was not fun.

Also check directly under the motor for a 3rd engine mount directly to the cross member, I don't think the 300s have them if I can remember, but its on the 240s, and is easy to overlook.


1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
07-29-2011, 10:37 AM #8
The secret is to get the rear end of the car up as high as possible. You have a leveler on the hoist I assume.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
07-29-2011, 10:37 AM #8

The secret is to get the rear end of the car up as high as possible. You have a leveler on the hoist I assume.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
07-31-2011, 03:45 PM #9
Yes I have a load leveler and a engine hoist, should I take off the hood or just the grill? What makes it easier by jacking up the rear? I'm tempted to keep the transmission in there method and try and shoe horn it back in there. I already stuffed every hole with shop towels Big Grin
This post was last modified: 07-31-2011, 03:46 PM by Kozuka.
Kozuka
07-31-2011, 03:45 PM #9

Yes I have a load leveler and a engine hoist, should I take off the hood or just the grill? What makes it easier by jacking up the rear? I'm tempted to keep the transmission in there method and try and shoe horn it back in there. I already stuffed every hole with shop towels Big Grin

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
07-31-2011, 04:52 PM #10
I've pulled and installed a 617 almost a dozen times. Done both with the trans intact using a load leveler and with out the trans intact.
Personally I do not like messing with a load leveler and with the tans intact. Just hard for me to maneuver, it seems I was always bumping something.
I like pulling the engine without the trans intact so the engine goes in and out straight up. I also like using good condition old seat belts, instead of chains to attach the motor to the hoist. It's easier to adjust forward or back then the use of chains.
It seems to me easier to separate and reattach the trans and motor together while in the car. You just need to drop the tail of the trans and reach over the top with a long extension and a swivel socket to get to the upper bell housing. Use the extension and swivel for the starter bolts. I remove the radiator, leave the fan on, leave the oil cooler intact to prevent a mess, set aside the power steering pump and put the hood in the upright service position. Pretty much pulls straight up.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
07-31-2011, 04:52 PM #10

I've pulled and installed a 617 almost a dozen times. Done both with the trans intact using a load leveler and with out the trans intact.
Personally I do not like messing with a load leveler and with the tans intact. Just hard for me to maneuver, it seems I was always bumping something.
I like pulling the engine without the trans intact so the engine goes in and out straight up. I also like using good condition old seat belts, instead of chains to attach the motor to the hoist. It's easier to adjust forward or back then the use of chains.
It seems to me easier to separate and reattach the trans and motor together while in the car. You just need to drop the tail of the trans and reach over the top with a long extension and a swivel socket to get to the upper bell housing. Use the extension and swivel for the starter bolts. I remove the radiator, leave the fan on, leave the oil cooler intact to prevent a mess, set aside the power steering pump and put the hood in the upright service position. Pretty much pulls straight up.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
07-31-2011, 05:46 PM #11
I remember on my 116 you could unlock the hood and put it in the up right position whats the trick on the w123?
Kozuka
07-31-2011, 05:46 PM #11

I remember on my 116 you could unlock the hood and put it in the up right position whats the trick on the w123?

smoke026
When the Cat's away the mice will play!

94
07-31-2011, 05:54 PM #12
^^^
Agree!
This post was last modified: 07-31-2011, 05:56 PM by smoke026.
smoke026
07-31-2011, 05:54 PM #12

^^^
Agree!

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
07-31-2011, 07:17 PM #13
Look for the locking tabs on the elbow of the hood hinges. You push both down to free them from stop slot in the elbow.

   

   


.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
07-31-2011, 07:17 PM #13

Look for the locking tabs on the elbow of the hood hinges. You push both down to free them from stop slot in the elbow.

   

   


.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
07-31-2011, 08:20 PM #14
(07-31-2011, 03:45 PM)Kozuka Yes I have a load leveler and a engine hoist, should I take off the hood or just the grill? What makes it easier by jacking up the rear? I'm tempted to keep the transmission in there method and try and shoe horn it back in there. I already stuffed every hole with shop towels Big Grin

With the trans on its about 6" or so long and has to come out a 45 degree or sharper incline. You basically need an effective clearance of 3' or so under there. The more of an angle you have with the rear up the better chances of you getting it out. Personally I would only take eng in and out with trans on. Too much of a PITA for the top bolts on the trans.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
07-31-2011, 08:20 PM #14

(07-31-2011, 03:45 PM)Kozuka Yes I have a load leveler and a engine hoist, should I take off the hood or just the grill? What makes it easier by jacking up the rear? I'm tempted to keep the transmission in there method and try and shoe horn it back in there. I already stuffed every hole with shop towels Big Grin

With the trans on its about 6" or so long and has to come out a 45 degree or sharper incline. You basically need an effective clearance of 3' or so under there. The more of an angle you have with the rear up the better chances of you getting it out. Personally I would only take eng in and out with trans on. Too much of a PITA for the top bolts on the trans.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
07-31-2011, 08:41 PM #15
^^ Yeah you really need to get that rear up high and the front tires flat to get it out with the tranny.

(07-31-2011, 08:20 PM)winmutt ... Too much of a PITA for the top bolts on the trans.

It really is not bad, you just need the right set of tools and have the car jacked up high for better turning leverage on the breaker bar.



.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
07-31-2011, 08:41 PM #15

^^ Yeah you really need to get that rear up high and the front tires flat to get it out with the tranny.

(07-31-2011, 08:20 PM)winmutt ... Too much of a PITA for the top bolts on the trans.

It really is not bad, you just need the right set of tools and have the car jacked up high for better turning leverage on the breaker bar.



.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
07-31-2011, 09:47 PM #16
Like I said in Post 2 ....


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
07-31-2011, 09:47 PM #16

Like I said in Post 2 ....



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

 
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