turbo with no whistle
turbo with no whistle
Hey there. My 1980 300 sd turbo has been swapped to a 1983 300 sd turbo. I dont seem to have that turbo whistle on my newer motor. I do have some power. I dont have a boost gauge or pyromometer. Is it possible that the turbo could be full of Carbon. The intake elbow removed i can see the turbo spinning and a slight whine. Its just quiet. But driving it there is no noise under load or idle.My car gets up and goes. all componants are adjusted correctly. Thanks Quinn
When i took my tubo off my car you could hear the thing loud and clear. We put it on my friends car you could hardly hear it. I think it's a timing deal on his car.
Is it the same type of turbo the garret T3's are quieter than the k26's
With the stock air box and intake elbow (u tube) you wont hear a thing
(07-20-2011, 11:48 AM)dieselboy When i took my tubo off my car you could hear the thing loud and clear. We put it on my friends car you could hardly hear it. I think it's a timing deal on his car.
(07-20-2011, 12:05 PM)willbhere4u Is it the same type of turbo the garret T3's are quieter than the k26's
(07-20-2011, 11:48 AM)dieselboy When i took my tubo off my car you could hear the thing loud and clear. We put it on my friends car you could hardly hear it. I think it's a timing deal on his car.
(07-20-2011, 12:05 PM)willbhere4u Is it the same type of turbo the garret T3's are quieter than the k26's
Best bet is a party favor haha
You should hear it if its spooling no doubt. I guess best thing to do is check for boost
Stock turbo, stock exhaust, and alda on, I barely heard mine. Removed exhaust and alda and it would sing all the time. I miss it, my vnt only has a whistle for about a second
(07-21-2011, 03:38 PM)larsalan Myb you need a exhaust delete
(07-21-2011, 03:38 PM)larsalan Myb you need a exhaust delete
I pulled the twin little kidney mufflers and welded a piece of straight pipe in their place. It was a touch louder but not obnoxious. I really don't remember if I could feel a difference, bit it at least sounded faster! Saves a bit of weight too! I couldn't really hear my turbo until I got rid of the stock intake, now it screams.
(07-21-2011, 03:38 PM)larsalan Myb you need a exhaust delete
(07-21-2011, 03:38 PM)larsalan Myb you need a exhaust delete
Here is the engine in my dads car It an 83 engine it has pre 1980 non EGR manifolds a k26 turbo available on 84-85 models I think It makes the same amount of boost but it has a smaller exhaust housing witch helps it spool up almost 700 rpm sooner so it makes my dads car a torque monster out of the lights! It has a cheap filter on it so you can hear the turbo! also the ALDA is not removed but it is maxed out!
Boost gauge will tell all. The stock exhaust on the 617 is more than adequate as it is straight flowing. If you are going to remove anything remove the resonator.
(07-22-2011, 10:10 AM)winmutt Boost gauge will tell all. The stock exhaust on the 617 is more than adequate as it is straight flowing. If you are going to remove anything remove the resonator.
(07-22-2011, 10:10 AM)winmutt Boost gauge will tell all. The stock exhaust on the 617 is more than adequate as it is straight flowing. If you are going to remove anything remove the resonator.
I recommend the fram intake mod. It's been shown on here before. I did it the other day and think it's an easy and awesome upgrade.
A fram 8037 or 8038 I think. Then a few dollars of abs bends and whatnot.
Clears up a lot of space, drops a pound or two and has got to flow better.
Is 8psi your max? Or can you get up to 10?
Oh, and seriously delete or straighten out that exhaust, magna flow or straight or 8in hood stack
(07-24-2011, 12:20 AM)larsalan I recommend the fram intake mod. It's been shown on here before. I did it the other day and think it's an easy and awesome upgrade.
A fram 8037 or 8038 I think. Then a few dollars of abs bends and whatnot.
Clears up a lot of space, drops a pound or two and has got to flow better.
Is 8psi your max? Or can you get up to 10?
Oh, and seriously delete or straighten out that exhaust, magna flow or straight or 8in hood stack
(07-24-2011, 12:20 AM)larsalan I recommend the fram intake mod. It's been shown on here before. I did it the other day and think it's an easy and awesome upgrade.
A fram 8037 or 8038 I think. Then a few dollars of abs bends and whatnot.
Clears up a lot of space, drops a pound or two and has got to flow better.
Is 8psi your max? Or can you get up to 10?
Oh, and seriously delete or straighten out that exhaust, magna flow or straight or 8in hood stack
You can see what I'm talking about here...
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...=fram+8038
though maybe those pictures are on the way out?
You wont do a burnout with the ALDA still on the injection Pump. It wont give you enough fuel to make any boost.
Remove the ALDA and you have a completely different animal.
with ALDA I couldn't build any boost power braking, and without ALDA I can make like 7 psi.
You boost is also low. should be 9 psi stock and 12ish is best
Not sure what my boost is... but I still have alda in and my benz will spin em'
Engine only has ~145k miles on it. 3.07 diff but with the 85 tranny that has the higher stall torque converter. Not sure if that makes a difference but possibly.
My car would kill a stock tire. I can powerbrake with the huge 245s on it and a 2.65 LSD. Granted it may take a few for it to make boost but when it does it will spin inti 2nd.
(08-08-2011, 04:21 PM)capflya Not sure what my boost is... but I still have alda in and my benz will spin em'
Engine only has ~145k miles on it. 3.07 diff but with the 85 tranny that has the higher stall torque converter. Not sure if that makes a difference but possibly.
(08-08-2011, 04:21 PM)capflya Not sure what my boost is... but I still have alda in and my benz will spin em'
Engine only has ~145k miles on it. 3.07 diff but with the 85 tranny that has the higher stall torque converter. Not sure if that makes a difference but possibly.
Hes like 200ft above sea level in "Oceanside" lol.
We will have to meet up sometime.
Don't want to sound like a DICK or take a Dump on your thread but,
Regarding Air Filter Setups.
The FRAM 8038 exposed air filter WILL NOT generate more power or create more air flow than the stock OEM box.
I dropped the idea of installing the Fram after going insane "literally" for days reading up on multiple sanctioned bodies of racing regarding engine air filtration. Unless the whole thing is at least 90% correctly shielded and scooped for air induction, ur wasting ur time. It wont clunk ur motor over either but I think its still not a smart move.
Bottom line is that an exposed air filter will suck roughly 40% hotter air, has 16 Degrees avg higher E.G.T's than OEM, has longer EGT cool downs, it generates 20% hotter under hood temps. etc etc
Every 5.5°F increase in air intake temperature reduces engine
power by 1%.
Every 1°F of cooler intake air will reduce EGT by approximately
1.5°F.
Cooler intake air reduces under hood temperature.
OEM sealed air box allows the engine to cool down faster than
semi-open heat shield type air boxes.
Cooler intake air improves mileage. Every 10°F drop in intake
air increases mileage by 1%.
Think about it logically, even lawn mowers have sealed air filters! Refer to attached pics of some random sanctioned bodies of PRO RACING air filter setups. Not 1 has an exposed air filter. I wonder why?
NASCAR:
FORMULA1:
MIDGETS:
SHIFTER PRO KARTS:
FERRARI:
GRAND PRIX CR6 CORVETTE:
Your right, It doesn't create more airflow. It allows for more airflow. In any case weather stock or you have a larger turbo or are even twin charging, your going to want the Least amount of restriction. I think that's the only thing you forgot to measure or just didn't post about....
1 reason to add the Fram is SURFACE AREA and plumbing. Now I'm not going to get into the number of pleats and junk like that but I can be sure the fram has more surface area than the stock round filter. As far as plumbing goes... The stock setup just LOOKS restrictive... haha
*Every 10° change in Air temp either increases or decreases power by 1% (as taught at UTI)
Cooler intake air temp decreases under hood temps? Because of EGT's?
The American Le Mans GT ZR1's are just badass cars that Win!
You CANNOT compare the shitty stock air filter assembly to RACE cars! haha All of them (execpt for maybe the Kart) use sealed intakes that either have NO restriction or are pressurized by the speed of the vehicle. My Buell also uses the same "forced" air intake and actually develops boost when traveling above 80mph. The Benz intake could only dream of that....
Quote:The American Le Mans GT ZR1's are just badass cars that Win!An acquaintance has a zr1 racing school, He wants around 10k to get me into a ZR1 "Semi" [meaning not official] Le Mans car for a couple laps. CRAZY!!!
Weather it Allows more airflow the fact remains that the additional air flow allowed will be of hotter air and of more turbulent air.
If a semi-open air box delivers up to 39° hotter intake air to the turbo than the OEM air box why would it matter that ur increasing the flow of such hotter air?
Its true that its not fair to compare race cars to stock cars, but its the theory that matters. They are trying to suck colder air into motor.
Lower under-hood air temperature: The engine, radiator and especially the exhaust manifold and turbocharger are the 4 biggest contributors of under-hood heat. When using cooler intake air in the engine, the exhaust manifold and turbocharger produces lower EGT, thereby radiating less heat into the engine compartment. Plus lower engine compartment temperature extends the life of many components under the hood.
Reduce air turbulence: Flat panel air filters are known for straightening air flow as air passes through the filter, resulting in uniform air flow and a shorter air path to the turbocharger. Conical air filters, due to their round shape, swirl the air as it travels through the air filter and down the intake tube (just like water vortexes when a toilet is flushed) increasing air flow turbulence. Turbulence in the intake tube causing the turbocharger to work harder to draw in air.
Air filter remains cleaner: Semi-heat shield air box allows under-hood heated air, circulating around the engine to enter the conical filter, depositing an oily and greasy film on the filter from OM617 8), resulting in more frequent filter cleaning to maintain performance. The OEM sealed air box prevents engine compartment air from entering the air filter, keeping the filter cleaner and extending the replacement or cleaning intervals.
MTU power: has the best TRUE after market cold air intake set up I have seen on OM617:
Rudolf_Diesel's Conical Air filter shield is prob 2nd best.
Quote:The American Le Mans GT ZR1's are just badass cars that Win!An acquaintance has a zr1 racing school, He wants around 10k to get me into a ZR1 "Semi" [meaning not official] Le Mans car for a couple laps. CRAZY!!!
The Fram filter is not "conical", and is used in the OEM
The OEM filter still has WAY less surface area than the Fram.
I guess we can agree to disagree but I still think the OEM setup = shit
Sweet!! I did see an old pic somewhere I think Benzworld or something where someone managed to plumb the intake to where the battery sits. It had a simple U bend from the turbo to the battery. Practical and simple. Perfect for shielding and could suck air from the cowl.
No beef just opinions! Beefing is not good...im here to learn.
I was half way committed on my FRAM setup anyways, i did not really have an interest in it so I dropped the ball on making it functional. I agree that under the right circumstances it could be acceptable.
Lets now enjoy some good old F1 Renault Turbo cars from the 70's. 2012-13 I think they will reintroduce turbos. These mofos sure know what they are doing.
http://youtu.be/-Da_tGousd8
The OEM setup is excellent. Except that they made the bracket out of aluminum and they snap all the time. I went away from stock because I was tired of replacing mounts and brackets. If I had the time I would make an air dam around it. Smoke all of those numbers you quoted probably do not apply to the MB as the engine bay is 10x larger than any ricer. At idle/slow speed you will have increased intake temps but at speed its just as cold as stock.
Those numbers were grabbed as an accumulated study from multiple diesel turbo motors V6 and V8. Real life mapping of OEM vs CAI kits performed by non CAI suppliers of course.
Mostly RENAULT,CUMMINS, & POWERSTROKE. I am no mechanical engineer but do think that the logic should transfer mostly to all motors.
Exposed CAI's are cool and all but has always been that "upgrade" that I honestly never really understood. Kind of like someone removing their A/C system, removing all their windows and calling it a
[Cold A/C Window kit]. Then they will say "AHHH but listen to how that wind spools"..
No insult to Swamp Coolers of course which actually do cool!
Where can I get this?? I looked up MTU and I don't see anything. I really want to get rid of my broken air cleaner bracket and this looks like an awesome option! Please share!
MTU power: has the best TRUE after market cold air intake set up I have seen on OM617:
Cheers
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