Heating!!! Hot Hot!!
Heating!!! Hot Hot!!
Only thing that comes to mind is that yesterday I installed an old OEM coolant cap I had laying around! The existing one was aftermarket, maybe my OEM was
Crapper? One more thing from the overheating the valve leaked a liitle oil by gasket, normal or what?
Running hot out the blue? So my temps skyrocket within a minute or so, popped the hood, NO Coolant?
Only thing that comes to mind is that yesterday I installed an old OEM coolant cap I had laying around! The existing one was aftermarket, maybe my OEM was
Crapper? One more thing from the overheating the valve leaked a liitle oil by gasket, normal or what?
But I dont think leaking oil is ever "normal" common maybe but a leak in my book is still a leak
I would look over the coolant paths and see if theres a leak. it dident just disapear lol...
....although I did have break fluid dissapear on me one time.. :/ ?
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
08-15-2011, 10:21 PM #2Well if the oem one was bad it would have blown all out the top. There would be some evidence. I beleive
But I dont think leaking oil is ever "normal" common maybe but a leak in my book is still a leak
I would look over the coolant paths and see if theres a leak. it dident just disapear lol...
....although I did have break fluid dissapear on me one time.. :/ ?
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
2 Gallons of stolen h20 from whose ever home driveway where I pitted at 11pm and her temps r back to normal w/in seconds. Should I leave her alone or buy a 50/50 mix and feed it tomorrow? The oil leak was minute, nothing blew out, no water anywhere, no hose cracks or tares, maybe radiator leak? Tomorrow I'll access her in the daylight, another thing might be that my coolant tank had the typical small/crack going where both halves meet since like forever, it was in the upper part or the tank so nothing Ever leaked n I never paid it any mind as temps NEVER EVER climbed. Its my understanding that it has to hold pressure to move coolant back and forth btw tank and radiator as temps + and -?The crapper cap is suspect of being the straw that broke the the reservoir's back!
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Water is the most effective coolant out there, as long as it doesnt boil over. You can get zerex g05 in 50/50....... I would top off and keep an eye on it. There are all kinds of places for coolant to leak. Check all the hose connections from the block to the firewall. Turn on your heater and see if it smells sweet.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Here's another possibility. Over the weekend I tinkered with my freshly installed oil Sep. Maybe it backfired on my ass and crapped the vacuum pressure and perhaps also the cause of the minute oil leak/ sippage on the block head gasket (less than 1/2 of 1 qt). Maybe that then led to heating which fed it whatever minute coolant the tank already had?
I say this because the coolant tank is not leaking, I ran her filthy ass hard and temps will not climb above 80-90C, no more evidence of leaking oil.
Here is what is catching my attention! Near the EGR / air cleaner / radiator shroud location there is like a pressure cooking pot sound, (vacuum type sound) it is also very hot near that location, everything seems and feels hotter under hood, however temps r steady at 80-85C??? If I poke my face near that location its effing hot! Could this also be the oil residue creating heat while it burns away?
Bad water pump?
Very curious!
One more thing, the car has been idling for roughly an hour after my small drive
and temps steady at 80-85C
Hit her up this morning w prestone 50/50, ran her hard for 30 minutes and temps are steady at 80-85C. I'll keep an eye on it. But I think those are ideal temps?
Here's another possibility. Over the weekend I tinkered with my freshly installed oil Sep. Maybe it backfired on my ass and crapped the vacuum pressure and perhaps also the cause of the minute oil leak/ sippage on the block head gasket (less than 1/2 of 1 qt). Maybe that then led to heating which fed it whatever minute coolant the tank already had?
I say this because the coolant tank is not leaking, I ran her filthy ass hard and temps will not climb above 80-90C, no more evidence of leaking oil.
Here is what is catching my attention! Near the EGR / air cleaner / radiator shroud location there is like a pressure cooking pot sound, (vacuum type sound) it is also very hot near that location, everything seems and feels hotter under hood, however temps r steady at 80-85C??? If I poke my face near that location its effing hot! Could this also be the oil residue creating heat while it burns away?
Bad water pump?
Very curious!
One more thing, the car has been idling for roughly an hour after my small drive
and temps steady at 80-85C
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
08-16-2011, 01:45 PM #6no there fine, around 80 i belive is normal. thats where mine likes to sit.
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
![[Image: 1zmgexe.jpg]](http://i51.tinypic.com/1zmgexe.jpg)
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-16-2011, 04:47 PM #9Thermostat housing is probly sucking in air if you hear it boiling... I would replace the O-Ring...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(08-16-2011, 04:47 PM)Captain America Thermostat housing is probly sucking in air if you hear it boiling... I would replace the O-Ring...
Funny u mention that! The one in there now looks like it might have been rebuilt or something!
![[Image: 2rx71fq.jpg]](http://i53.tinypic.com/2rx71fq.jpg)
![[Image: zunrpl.jpg]](http://i54.tinypic.com/zunrpl.jpg)
Note funky RED gasket sealer crap.
However,I think that if this part was bad it would blow shit up! I had a 5.9L magnum mopar fail on a Drive Thru and it went CABOOOMMMM, Jihad Style, washed the hole bay and rear of the BMW that was in front of me.8) GOOD TIMES. I laughed so hard I could not eat that night.
This time it was different. Bone dry,temps just went up like in a matter of secs, maybe I caught it before she BLEW!. Anyone who has this entire thermostat housing part make me an offer just in case!
It stinks like ass shit in the bay now, presumably from all the old coolant. Radiator is fine, fluid is maintaining well in the coolant tank, sucks that I have not been able to find the culprit, what i do know is that I lost coolant somehow. Who knows maybe it was low to begin w/.
(08-16-2011, 04:47 PM)Captain America Thermostat housing is probly sucking in air if you hear it boiling... I would replace the O-Ring...
Funny u mention that! The one in there now looks like it might have been rebuilt or something!
Note funky RED gasket sealer crap.
However,I think that if this part was bad it would blow shit up! I had a 5.9L magnum mopar fail on a Drive Thru and it went CABOOOMMMM, Jihad Style, washed the hole bay and rear of the BMW that was in front of me.8) GOOD TIMES. I laughed so hard I could not eat that night.
This time it was different. Bone dry,temps just went up like in a matter of secs, maybe I caught it before she BLEW!. Anyone who has this entire thermostat housing part make me an offer just in case!
It stinks like ass shit in the bay now, presumably from all the old coolant. Radiator is fine, fluid is maintaining well in the coolant tank, sucks that I have not been able to find the culprit, what i do know is that I lost coolant somehow. Who knows maybe it was low to begin w/.
!! Fuck I wish I could beat the people who use silicon 
lol. Ok Dude go to your local dealer and pick up the oring and replace it.... That will cause a ton of problems.The Benz uses a closed loop cooling system which is VERY sensitive to air leaks....
what kind of shit is there other than the ass kind? lol
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-17-2011, 12:33 AM #11It is sealed with an O_RING lol Not fucking SILICON!!!! Fuck I wish I could beat the people who use silicon lol. Ok Dude go to your local dealer and pick up the oring and replace it.... That will cause a ton of problems.
The Benz uses a closed loop cooling system which is VERY sensitive to air leaks....
what kind of shit is there other than the ass kind? lol
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Do this with the T-stat removes of course. While at it, flush the rad back & forth.
You will be amazed at what you find.
Ed
yankneck696
08-17-2011, 07:11 AM #13I would suggest to flush & back flysh the engine repeatedly with a garden hose & adapter on both hoses to the radiator. On each output side, use a strainer or collander to catch anything that may be the culprit. I have used this procedyre on marine engines where the raw water impellor has fragged, so that I could piece it all together & assure no blocked passeges.
Do this with the T-stat removes of course. While at it, flush the rad back & forth.
You will be amazed at what you find.
Ed
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-17-2011, 09:03 AM #14also remove and clean that metal line with two banjo bolts from the water pump and make sure it's not plugged!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(08-17-2011, 09:03 AM)willbhere4u also remove and clean that metal line with two banjo bolts from the water pump and make sure it's not plugged!
+1 On that Willbhere!!!!!!
Pictures of my flush...
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid16893
Block air bleed:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...4#pid17414
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-17-2011, 10:10 AM #15(08-17-2011, 09:03 AM)willbhere4u also remove and clean that metal line with two banjo bolts from the water pump and make sure it's not plugged!
+1 On that Willbhere!!!!!!
Pictures of my flush...
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...3#pid16893
Block air bleed:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...4#pid17414
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Rather then replace an O ring lets fill it up with Silicone? HILARIOUSLY DEPRESSING! Thanks for the help guys, thank u Mr Capt. for highlighting ur threads regarding ur similar issues. At least Im learning. Gracious for active members.
Im gonna sit still for couple days. Then i will address it when my head is in cooler waters (pun intended).
On a side note, does it have to be from a "Stealer", how about pelican parts or something?
Dont we love how they rig shit together sometimes? HAHA
Rather then replace an O ring lets fill it up with Silicone? HILARIOUSLY DEPRESSING! Thanks for the help guys, thank u Mr Capt. for highlighting ur threads regarding ur similar issues. At least Im learning. Gracious for active members.
Im gonna sit still for couple days. Then i will address it when my head is in cooler waters (pun intended).
On a side note, does it have to be from a "Stealer", how about pelican parts or something?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shop...mp_pg1.htm
Is there something that I should be precarious about when pulling waterpump out? Is it a reverse order installation? Will coolant burst out? Springs fly out? Is this thing under pressure? Wear goggles?
Anyone have this page on their manual they can upload..? That would help tons.
Cheers.
Im getting ready to buy every item on this page that applies to my 85 300TD minus the actual pump housing and unneeded hoses.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shop...mp_pg1.htm
Is there something that I should be precarious about when pulling waterpump out? Is it a reverse order installation? Will coolant burst out? Springs fly out? Is this thing under pressure? Wear goggles?
Anyone have this page on their manual they can upload..? That would help tons.
Cheers.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-17-2011, 10:31 PM #18It will leak a little when you pull it other than that it's straight forward
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I would wear a blast suit when you pull the water pump... LOL just kidding. Just drain the radiator, then pull the T-stat housing, then the water pump. Very little should come out of t-stat and WP after the radiator is drained as willbhere stated.
I would put a light coat of white lithium grease on the water pump gasket so it stays in place and ensures a leak free seal
Also drill one 3/16" hole in the T-stat so that the air will bleed out of the system easier.
Check this out!
http://www.dieselgiant.com/thermostatrep...dmodif.htm
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-18-2011, 04:32 PM #19I just said to go to the "stealer" because the O-Ring is so inexpensive and you can have it same day (no shipping charge)
I would wear a blast suit when you pull the water pump... LOL just kidding. Just drain the radiator, then pull the T-stat housing, then the water pump. Very little should come out of t-stat and WP after the radiator is drained as willbhere stated.
I would put a light coat of white lithium grease on the water pump gasket so it stays in place and ensures a leak free seal
Also drill one 3/16" hole in the T-stat so that the air will bleed out of the system easier.
Check this out!
http://www.dieselgiant.com/thermostatrep...dmodif.htm
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
cars? what cars? WHERE???
randomdude
08-18-2011, 06:58 PM #20hey captain, just wanted to say thanks for that link! much appreciated.
cars? what cars? WHERE???
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-19-2011, 03:38 PM #21
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Got her flushed, actually did 3 good flushes in 20 minute intervals after running car for enough time to allow for the thermostat to open up (@ around 80C).
Im pretty sure I got 99% of old coolant out of the system as can be noted on the picture.
The good news is that no junkie stuff ever came out after all of the multiple draining/flushings. Satisfying! Tomorrow I will replace thermostat and flush once more with distilled water then top her off with Mercedes Coolant.
![[Image: l9krc.jpg]](http://i56.tinypic.com/l9krc.jpg)
Im doing my flush exactly as a guy I like to follow closely on youtube.
He's a trip to watch.
http://youtu.be/tpYCfqcNEh4
Cheers
Im kind of timid about drilling the thermostat though. I think i will pass on that one.
Got her flushed, actually did 3 good flushes in 20 minute intervals after running car for enough time to allow for the thermostat to open up (@ around 80C).
Im pretty sure I got 99% of old coolant out of the system as can be noted on the picture.
The good news is that no junkie stuff ever came out after all of the multiple draining/flushings. Satisfying! Tomorrow I will replace thermostat and flush once more with distilled water then top her off with Mercedes Coolant.
Im doing my flush exactly as a guy I like to follow closely on youtube.
He's a trip to watch.
http://youtu.be/tpYCfqcNEh4
Cheers
Lets laugh at little why dont we? Here is an explanation on why some people should never be allowed to touch a car.
So lets get this T-Stat housing out.
BOOOOOOMMMMM...NO GASKET....NICE!
![[Image: 2j3fdas.jpg]](http://i54.tinypic.com/2j3fdas.jpg)
Lets check even further into what happens when u try to 1 up the invention of a GASKET?
BOOOOOOOOMMMM IT DISTORTS THINGS! NICE...x2
![[Image: j0gmf8.jpg]](http://i53.tinypic.com/j0gmf8.jpg)
Lets take this LAUGHTER even a step further...GET READY...WAIT FOR IT, It will be worth it.
So I ask myself in my misery, maybe I could at least test the old Thermostat to see if it was even opening at right temperature, u know, the drop in 200F degree water test.
BOOOOOMMM to the 10th POWER..THERE IS NO THERMOSTAT.FAIL BIG TIME!!! THis should be placed in the FAIL THREAD instead.
![[Image: xp2bsm.jpg]](http://i56.tinypic.com/xp2bsm.jpg)
Now 2 things. Im happy that I actually know more about mechanics than who ever touched this car prior to me. And im also amazed at the fact that Mercedes built a motor that was RETARD PROOF.
OK so this repair thing jsut turned HILARIOUS!
Lets laugh at little why dont we? Here is an explanation on why some people should never be allowed to touch a car.
So lets get this T-Stat housing out.
BOOOOOOMMMMM...NO GASKET....NICE!
Lets check even further into what happens when u try to 1 up the invention of a GASKET?
BOOOOOOOOMMMM IT DISTORTS THINGS! NICE...x2
Lets take this LAUGHTER even a step further...GET READY...WAIT FOR IT, It will be worth it.
So I ask myself in my misery, maybe I could at least test the old Thermostat to see if it was even opening at right temperature, u know, the drop in 200F degree water test.
BOOOOOMMM to the 10th POWER..THERE IS NO THERMOSTAT.FAIL BIG TIME!!! THis should be placed in the FAIL THREAD instead.
Now 2 things. Im happy that I actually know more about mechanics than who ever touched this car prior to me. And im also amazed at the fact that Mercedes built a motor that was RETARD PROOF.
(08-21-2011, 07:27 PM)winmutt PS I find the diamond max gloves from autozone to be the best by far.
They were actually purchased @ Harbor Freight. When I drive with them on they give me an extra 10HP minimum! 8)
And yes, they are the best that this "thermostat-inspection-turned-horror-story" has offered me. Im now going to officially rename the "pussy wagon" (sour cabbage). Take that Germany!
The "Sauerkraut" made her sourness official by continuing to run under 85C for months now, even after the coolant disappeared on me that meek and lonely night and even after she was hacked like a confused psychopath in a Dexter episode.
Im hoping I can cop an 85' T housing tomorrow at the junker.
If any one has 1 please offer her up or hit me up. $20 bucks?
cheers
(08-21-2011, 07:27 PM)winmutt PS I find the diamond max gloves from autozone to be the best by far.
They were actually purchased @ Harbor Freight. When I drive with them on they give me an extra 10HP minimum! 8)
And yes, they are the best that this "thermostat-inspection-turned-horror-story" has offered me. Im now going to officially rename the "pussy wagon" (sour cabbage). Take that Germany!
The "Sauerkraut" made her sourness official by continuing to run under 85C for months now, even after the coolant disappeared on me that meek and lonely night and even after she was hacked like a confused psychopath in a Dexter episode.
Im hoping I can cop an 85' T housing tomorrow at the junker.
If any one has 1 please offer her up or hit me up. $20 bucks?
cheers
Any one know what both sensors "read/measure" on the 300SD vs the 85' 300TD? In other words, why do they differ in location.
Im under the assumption that they are simply coolant temp sensors, maybe they trigger the function of the t-stat?
I have looked at many w123 diagrams but NONE show sensors.
![[Image: 2yv7z2p.jpg]](http://i51.tinypic.com/2yv7z2p.jpg)
I would hate to have to tap the housing to match the original 85 set up but will if it should be done.
Pls help, thanks
cheers
Ok picked up a 79-80 300sd nice T-stat housing for $10. Part is stamped with identical (617 203 19 73) however, the 2 sensors are located in a different sequential order. Both are post t-stat. The one on my 85 wagon has one pre and one post t-stat. Will it be an issue to fit the freshly picked housing on my 85 wagon? This part NEW is like 120 bucks so Im praying that it will be mountable.
Any one know what both sensors "read/measure" on the 300SD vs the 85' 300TD? In other words, why do they differ in location.
Im under the assumption that they are simply coolant temp sensors, maybe they trigger the function of the t-stat?
I have looked at many w123 diagrams but NONE show sensors.
I would hate to have to tap the housing to match the original 85 set up but will if it should be done.
Pls help, thanks
cheers
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I have a part with that same number. But it doesnt seem to look like eirher of those to me. If you pm me you email or phone number i can send pics. It came from 82 300d
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
The sensor with the 2 tubes is the EGR vac switch
and the other sensor is for the blower motor (will not blow cold air when the heater is on)
The Thermostat is purely mechanically operated lol not electric
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-22-2011, 04:25 PM #28The housing on the left:
The sensor with the 2 tubes is the EGR vac switch
and the other sensor is for the blower motor (will not blow cold air when the heater is on)
The Thermostat is purely mechanically operated lol not electric
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
I have seen hundreds of housings online and they are all different. If someone could tell me what the sensors on the RIGHT housing do then maybe I can adapt them or bypass them to the one on the LEFT..8)
PS: the thing mounts and fits accurately. Im 100% sure the housing is identical, however I think Benz set it up so multiple uses on many different combinations could be utilized under different years cars. AGAIN, IF SOMEONE HAS THE SAME HOUSING AS THE ONE ON THE RIGHT WITH THE SAME COMBO SENSORS,,,HIT ME UP!! I WILL BUY IT PRONTO!
Cheers,
---------------------------------------
Never Mind.
It appears it is an 85' year only W123 housing. None are available from anywhere at a reasonable price. What sucks the most is that today in the yard, they freshly sold a motor off an 85 year model..Ebay just sold YESTERDAY one @ around 45 bucks.
Bump, According to DeliveryValve over at old P.P thread regarding similar issue,
QUOTE: "That temperature sensor is for the 1985 only vacuum modulation system for the transmission. It's a 50º C sensor. "
Is the housing usable/adaptable to the 85' 300TD? Could I remove the EGR vac and install my Sensor in place of the EGR vac. Then tap the housing for the other sensor or ignore it all together?
I have seen hundreds of housings online and they are all different. If someone could tell me what the sensors on the RIGHT housing do then maybe I can adapt them or bypass them to the one on the LEFT..8)
PS: the thing mounts and fits accurately. Im 100% sure the housing is identical, however I think Benz set it up so multiple uses on many different combinations could be utilized under different years cars. AGAIN, IF SOMEONE HAS THE SAME HOUSING AS THE ONE ON THE RIGHT WITH THE SAME COMBO SENSORS,,,HIT ME UP!! I WILL BUY IT PRONTO!
Cheers,
---------------------------------------
Never Mind.
It appears it is an 85' year only W123 housing. None are available from anywhere at a reasonable price. What sucks the most is that today in the yard, they freshly sold a motor off an 85 year model..Ebay just sold YESTERDAY one @ around 45 bucks.
Bump, According to DeliveryValve over at old P.P thread regarding similar issue,
QUOTE: "That temperature sensor is for the 1985 only vacuum modulation system for the transmission. It's a 50º C sensor. "
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
08-22-2011, 11:01 PM #30If you removed all the emissions (EGR, ARV) vacuum equipment. Then you don't need that sensor. If you wanted to keep it, then just drill a new hold and tap threads in it. If your wiring allows, just use the hole for the vacuum valve. You might have to drill it out and tap new threads on it.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
(08-22-2011, 11:01 PM)DeliveryValve If you removed all the emissions (EGR, ARV) vacuum equipment. Then you don't need that sensor. If you wanted to keep it, then just drill a new hold and tap threads in it. If your wiring allows, just use the hole for the vacuum valve. You might have to drill it out and tap new threads on it.
Finally got a dude over at P.P selling me an 85' housing at a decent price. Should arrive Friday. I will keep the other as backup. I don't have EGR, but the majority of my vacuum system is still in tact.
Good hearing from u.
(08-22-2011, 11:01 PM)DeliveryValve If you removed all the emissions (EGR, ARV) vacuum equipment. Then you don't need that sensor. If you wanted to keep it, then just drill a new hold and tap threads in it. If your wiring allows, just use the hole for the vacuum valve. You might have to drill it out and tap new threads on it.
Finally got a dude over at P.P selling me an 85' housing at a decent price. Should arrive Friday. I will keep the other as backup. I don't have EGR, but the majority of my vacuum system is still in tact.
Good hearing from u.
![[Image: np5led.jpg]](http://i56.tinypic.com/np5led.jpg)
![[Image: fd7q4z.jpg]](http://i55.tinypic.com/fd7q4z.jpg)
On another note: I did not drill the T-stat because I now understand its function. It basically behaves as a mixing valve. Plus Mercedes itself is against thermo modifications.
![[Image: 20kacu1.jpg]](http://i51.tinypic.com/20kacu1.jpg)
OK, cooling system is all buttoned up. New T-Stat, T-stat housing, O rings and Gasket. New Bypass Hose etc.
On another note: I did not drill the T-stat because I now understand its function. It basically behaves as a mixing valve. Plus Mercedes itself is against thermo modifications.
The hole in the T-stat is strictly to aid in bleeding air from the system!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-25-2011, 10:28 PM #33Man you have become a purist!
The hole in the T-stat is strictly to aid in bleeding air from the system!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-26-2011, 01:06 PM #35Arrow Points up ^
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(08-26-2011, 02:34 AM)winmutt The arrow on that tstat lip should point up or down cant remember, in your pic it loos like its off?
It points up, that was just my quick pic. I shoot everything as soon as I work for references.
On another topic, Regarding T-stats, I would like to clear up something.
I got my terms all confused. The Loped Rubber thing is a T-Stat GASKET not an O-ring. People call everything that is round and rubber an O RING.
Here is my OEM Behr T-Stat. It came with the Loped rubber gasket and an O Ring.
![[Image: 6192-01016491-1010861.jpg]](http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/rep/full/6192-01016491-1010861.jpg)
Allow me then to ask you guys a question.
Should later model housings(1985) have the O ring installed aside from the Loped Rubber Gasket on the backside of the T-stat?
The more I read the more puzzled I am. Some people say that the extra O ring in the T-Stat Behr package is for "block to housing seal"??
That sounds retarded. Cylinder head O ring? WEIRD!
No manual shows an O Ring installed on that side of the housing or at the cylinder head anyhow. Only gaskets. WTF?
From parts Geek. Quote: "Notes: 80 degree T-Stat Requires (1) 617 203 01 80 seal ring." Part 617 203 01 80 is basically that extra O Ring.
When I hit that part number up on several sites here is what comes out=Thermostat O-Ring Seal -Thermostat Seal With Side-Hole
"This seal is used to seal the thermostat in the intake manifold". WTF.. Either Im way off or parts site call things what they are not?
Now Im lost....URG
8)
(08-26-2011, 02:34 AM)winmutt The arrow on that tstat lip should point up or down cant remember, in your pic it loos like its off?
It points up, that was just my quick pic. I shoot everything as soon as I work for references.
On another topic, Regarding T-stats, I would like to clear up something.
I got my terms all confused. The Loped Rubber thing is a T-Stat GASKET not an O-ring. People call everything that is round and rubber an O RING.
Here is my OEM Behr T-Stat. It came with the Loped rubber gasket and an O Ring.
Allow me then to ask you guys a question.
Should later model housings(1985) have the O ring installed aside from the Loped Rubber Gasket on the backside of the T-stat?
The more I read the more puzzled I am. Some people say that the extra O ring in the T-Stat Behr package is for "block to housing seal"??
That sounds retarded. Cylinder head O ring? WEIRD!
No manual shows an O Ring installed on that side of the housing or at the cylinder head anyhow. Only gaskets. WTF?
From parts Geek. Quote: "Notes: 80 degree T-Stat Requires (1) 617 203 01 80 seal ring." Part 617 203 01 80 is basically that extra O Ring.
When I hit that part number up on several sites here is what comes out=Thermostat O-Ring Seal -Thermostat Seal With Side-Hole
"This seal is used to seal the thermostat in the intake manifold". WTF.. Either Im way off or parts site call things what they are not?
Now Im lost....URG
8)
I dunno about that year housing but just use your own judgement. when you get the T-stat in the housing and go to bolt up the outside half, the metal should not touch... Meaning that the housing will squish the gasket slightly when you tighten the three bolts.
If that is the case, then I would say no O-Ring needed.
i have never heard of another or ring..........
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-26-2011, 05:05 PM #37Your right, Technically a gasket that surround the T-stat. Pretty cool if you ask me, Nothing to line up and the bolts don't have to be torqued down, just snug is good!
I dunno about that year housing but just use your own judgement. when you get the T-stat in the housing and go to bolt up the outside half, the metal should not touch... Meaning that the housing will squish the gasket slightly when you tighten the three bolts.
If that is the case, then I would say no O-Ring needed.
i have never heard of another or ring..........
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Quote:'Captain America' pid='33138' dateline='1314329280']
Man you have become a purist!
I know I know , im in that "purist" state of mind right now. My ratting days will slowly come back, its all in phases. I Rod like 10 years, then purify my soul another 10 by putting shit back to its natural form, then fuck it all up again 8)...
Quote:The hole in the T-stat is strictly to aid in bleeding air from the system!!
You are right, it will help it but will also mess things up by allowing the coolant to expand/heat whatever and fuck shit up, like the housing that i had (warped), which was completely T-Stat exempt under that same pretense of allowing faster cooling and quick bleeding.
Im pretty sure the Cooling system is self bled. The loop in the T-Stat gasket is for that purpose I imaging, plus, the return line to the tank from the Rad helps further bleed air.
(08-26-2011, 05:05 PM)Captain America i have never heard of another or ring..........
Me either until I read this from DieselGiant. Quote:
"The other o ring in the package is for the block to housing seal"
Quote:'Captain America' pid='33138' dateline='1314329280']
Man you have become a purist!
I know I know , im in that "purist" state of mind right now. My ratting days will slowly come back, its all in phases. I Rod like 10 years, then purify my soul another 10 by putting shit back to its natural form, then fuck it all up again 8)...
Quote:The hole in the T-stat is strictly to aid in bleeding air from the system!!
You are right, it will help it but will also mess things up by allowing the coolant to expand/heat whatever and fuck shit up, like the housing that i had (warped), which was completely T-Stat exempt under that same pretense of allowing faster cooling and quick bleeding.
Im pretty sure the Cooling system is self bled. The loop in the T-Stat gasket is for that purpose I imaging, plus, the return line to the tank from the Rad helps further bleed air.
(08-26-2011, 05:05 PM)Captain America i have never heard of another or ring..........
Me either until I read this from DieselGiant. Quote:
"The other o ring in the package is for the block to housing seal"
It's generally not a good idea to run nothing at all. You need a restriction to slow the water down so it can cool and be cooled.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
I run a gutted thermostat since It was overheating and cracked my head. I also use a electric fan that allows me to control the high but since it's never really cold here I'll see how it foes this winter and I may put a t-stat back in.
It's generally not a good idea to run nothing at all. You need a restriction to slow the water down so it can cool and be cooled.
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
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