1977 Merc 300D Project begun!
1977 Merc 300D Project begun!
11-01-2011, 08:55 PM
#1
Now i plan on getting the hood and sunroof painted because they are damaged. I also have a bolt on turbo kit thats coming this weekend! Other then that its gonna get cleaned up and i want to lower it. I think im just going to cut the springs unless you guys can help me find some lowering springs! Its still a daily driver so I'm not looking to go too low yet.
I'm uploading pictures of the whole project on flickr if you wanna scope them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/6270080443/
Hi everyone, new to this forum! I just acquired a 1977 Mercedes 300D for $1000. I think i got a pretty good deal, the interior is all original black leather and its in perfect condition
Now i plan on getting the hood and sunroof painted because they are damaged. I also have a bolt on turbo kit thats coming this weekend! Other then that its gonna get cleaned up and i want to lower it. I think im just going to cut the springs unless you guys can help me find some lowering springs! Its still a daily driver so I'm not looking to go too low yet.
I'm uploading pictures of the whole project on flickr if you wanna scope them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/6270080443/
![[Image: 6270080443_f085cbd766_b.jpg]](http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6059/6270080443_f085cbd766_b.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0691.jpg]](http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/larsalan/IMG_0691.jpg)
11-02-2011, 12:28 PM
#4
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-02-2011, 12:28 PM #4Love the black interior!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
12-03-2011, 05:57 PM
#7
On another subject, my car won't shut off when I pull the key out! I've heard it could be caused by a vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to go about testing/fixing it. Any Ideas?
This post was last modified: 12-03-2011, 06:12 PM by EDMfan.
Yeah I could only find one little scuff on the passenger seat, other then that they are in perfect condition.
On another subject, my car won't shut off when I pull the key out! I've heard it could be caused by a vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to go about testing/fixing it. Any Ideas?
12-04-2011, 08:40 PM
#8
(12-03-2011, 05:57 PM)EDMfan ...On another subject, my car won't shut off when I pull the key out! I've heard it could be caused by a vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to go about testing/fixing it. Any Ideas?
See
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesvacuu...ooting.htm
Hopefully, in your case it is simply a matter of a vacuum line being cracked or unconnected.
First thing I did when I bought my '85 300D, was overhaul the vacuum pump, to correct the not-shutting-off issue. My vacuum pump was not pulling any vacuum whatsoever. Instructions for overhauling the pump are at
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/easley...c_pump.htm
The overhaul is easy --don't be discouraged by these instructions. Hardest parts are making the stand, and actually getting the pump off the block. It can be done without removing the radiator or anything else, if you're careful. Works best if you take degreaser and paper towels and clean the block first, in the area of the pump. Spray penetrating oil into the attachment bolt threads and let it sit overnight, they may come off easier. And thoroughly clean the mating surface of the block before reinstalling the pump.
The overhaul required a $108 kit from the MB dealership, part # 000 586 17 23. All that's in this kit is three new piston-chamber checkvalves and a new rubber seal for the piston, plus a new gasket for the cover. The cheap b******s didn't even include a new pump-to-block gasket; that was ~$15 extra.
One of my three piston-chamber checkvalves was broken, and I had to drop the oilpan to retrieve the pieces. The broken checkvalve's spring was caught in the oil pickup screen. A new oilpan gasket was unavailable, so I just coated the flange completely with Permatex Ultra Black, and carefully assembled the pan, and let the Ultra Black set for 24 hours at ~ 60 degrees F to dry and cure before refilling the engine with oil. It has not leaked since.
If your pump gives zero vacuum, and when you dismount it and take the cover off you see that you, too, have a broken piston-chamber checkvalve, and if you don't have the $108+$15+sales tax for the overhaul kit plus block gasket, then probably it would be sufficient, as a make-do temporary repair, to just go to a wrecking yard and find another W123 pump for ~$20 and either swap it in or else take a replacement checkvalve from it. Depends on how lucky you feel.
There is an old-style and a new-style vacuum pump. The new style has the roller bearings encased in a cage such that there is no possibility of the ball bearings falling out if the bearing race fails. If the ball bearings fall out then they typically fall into the engine and get caught in the timing chain and destroy it and that's the end of your engine. So, if you can find one, the new-style vacuum pump is what you want.
I do not know what the external distinguishing features are of the new-style vacuum pump, nor do I know whether the new-style pump also comes on body styles newer than the W123. Anybody?
I used Permatex Hylomar as gasket sealing compound, applied very carefully and sparingly with flat toothpicks, both on the pump's cover gasket and on the pump-to-block gasket. It works well enough that my vacuum, measured just aft of the pump's main checkvalve (it is in the main line, about nine inches above and behind the pump), nine months after I did the overhaul, is still a rock-solid 23", one inch higher than spec.
Also, I suggest that, when you reinstall the repaired (or replacement) pump, instead of re-using the cheap attachment bolts it was originally put on with, go to a better hardware store and get some 10.9 or stronger (black) hex-key-head bolts (if distant memory serves, I managed to find 12.2's at Tacoma Screw). It'll make the job of taking the vacuum pump off a lot easier next time, because the el cheapo original bolts have a tendency to have the head's hex-key hole strip. I also used similar high-strength hex-key-head bolts to reattach the pump's cover, throwing away the cheap original flat-head-screwdriver screws. The added peace of mind is well worth their trivial cost (something like 25 cents apiece, if memory serves).
Sure do wish I had a new-style vacuum pump, though. My engine has only 100K miles on the overhaul (which was done by MB at 250K), has almost no blowby, and I would hate like hell to have to replace it.
I understand that electric vacuum pumps exist; eventually I may just remove my vacuum pump altogether, cover the hole with a plate and gasket, and just go with an electric pump.
This post was last modified: 12-06-2011, 12:26 PM by JustPassinThru.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
12-04-2011, 08:40 PM #8(12-03-2011, 05:57 PM)EDMfan ...On another subject, my car won't shut off when I pull the key out! I've heard it could be caused by a vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to go about testing/fixing it. Any Ideas?
See
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesvacuu...ooting.htm
Hopefully, in your case it is simply a matter of a vacuum line being cracked or unconnected.
First thing I did when I bought my '85 300D, was overhaul the vacuum pump, to correct the not-shutting-off issue. My vacuum pump was not pulling any vacuum whatsoever. Instructions for overhauling the pump are at
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/easley...c_pump.htm
The overhaul is easy --don't be discouraged by these instructions. Hardest parts are making the stand, and actually getting the pump off the block. It can be done without removing the radiator or anything else, if you're careful. Works best if you take degreaser and paper towels and clean the block first, in the area of the pump. Spray penetrating oil into the attachment bolt threads and let it sit overnight, they may come off easier. And thoroughly clean the mating surface of the block before reinstalling the pump.
The overhaul required a $108 kit from the MB dealership, part # 000 586 17 23. All that's in this kit is three new piston-chamber checkvalves and a new rubber seal for the piston, plus a new gasket for the cover. The cheap b******s didn't even include a new pump-to-block gasket; that was ~$15 extra.
One of my three piston-chamber checkvalves was broken, and I had to drop the oilpan to retrieve the pieces. The broken checkvalve's spring was caught in the oil pickup screen. A new oilpan gasket was unavailable, so I just coated the flange completely with Permatex Ultra Black, and carefully assembled the pan, and let the Ultra Black set for 24 hours at ~ 60 degrees F to dry and cure before refilling the engine with oil. It has not leaked since.
If your pump gives zero vacuum, and when you dismount it and take the cover off you see that you, too, have a broken piston-chamber checkvalve, and if you don't have the $108+$15+sales tax for the overhaul kit plus block gasket, then probably it would be sufficient, as a make-do temporary repair, to just go to a wrecking yard and find another W123 pump for ~$20 and either swap it in or else take a replacement checkvalve from it. Depends on how lucky you feel.
There is an old-style and a new-style vacuum pump. The new style has the roller bearings encased in a cage such that there is no possibility of the ball bearings falling out if the bearing race fails. If the ball bearings fall out then they typically fall into the engine and get caught in the timing chain and destroy it and that's the end of your engine. So, if you can find one, the new-style vacuum pump is what you want.
I do not know what the external distinguishing features are of the new-style vacuum pump, nor do I know whether the new-style pump also comes on body styles newer than the W123. Anybody?
I used Permatex Hylomar as gasket sealing compound, applied very carefully and sparingly with flat toothpicks, both on the pump's cover gasket and on the pump-to-block gasket. It works well enough that my vacuum, measured just aft of the pump's main checkvalve (it is in the main line, about nine inches above and behind the pump), nine months after I did the overhaul, is still a rock-solid 23", one inch higher than spec.
Also, I suggest that, when you reinstall the repaired (or replacement) pump, instead of re-using the cheap attachment bolts it was originally put on with, go to a better hardware store and get some 10.9 or stronger (black) hex-key-head bolts (if distant memory serves, I managed to find 12.2's at Tacoma Screw). It'll make the job of taking the vacuum pump off a lot easier next time, because the el cheapo original bolts have a tendency to have the head's hex-key hole strip. I also used similar high-strength hex-key-head bolts to reattach the pump's cover, throwing away the cheap original flat-head-screwdriver screws. The added peace of mind is well worth their trivial cost (something like 25 cents apiece, if memory serves).
Sure do wish I had a new-style vacuum pump, though. My engine has only 100K miles on the overhaul (which was done by MB at 250K), has almost no blowby, and I would hate like hell to have to replace it.
I understand that electric vacuum pumps exist; eventually I may just remove my vacuum pump altogether, cover the hole with a plate and gasket, and just go with an electric pump.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
12-07-2011, 09:21 PM
#9
Just picked up a 15" Kicker CVR sub from my co-worker and hopefully i'll be able to get a fairly powerful amplifier this weekend also. I'll post up a description of the install when I get a chance, more pictures will be up on my flickr account too!
Thanks for the advice! I'll probably run some tests this weekend.
Just picked up a 15" Kicker CVR sub from my co-worker and hopefully i'll be able to get a fairly powerful amplifier this weekend also. I'll post up a description of the install when I get a chance, more pictures will be up on my flickr account too!
12-07-2011, 10:20 PM
#10
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
12-07-2011, 10:20 PM #10nice. i have a single 12in cvr in a ported box i built its nice. but thats in my cobalt. the merc dosent need any more weight in in LOL
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
12-11-2011, 04:43 PM
#11
I got photos of the turbo torn apart on flickr --> http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/sets...327137293/
Just finished pulling apart my turbo! I think its a Garrett t3 AiResearch turbo, the whole system was coated in grime and oil, the compressor wheel is pretty beat up too. I should be getting a new wheel and rebuild kit in the next couple weeks.
I got photos of the turbo torn apart on flickr --> http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/sets...327137293/
01-25-2012, 07:32 PM
#12
Any european car is welcome!
01-31-2012, 12:22 PM
#13
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
01-31-2012, 12:22 PM #13Wish I was closer!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
03-02-2012, 12:25 AM
#14
I also built an intake for the car, and I know people think its ridiculous and everything and at first I was kind of against it also but after hearing that deeper growl it gave it I'm very happy. I also tried to go a little old school and I deleted the fog light and fed the air filter cone through it.
Here's some photos of the install! -->
http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/6799...8327137293
This post was last modified: 03-02-2012, 12:28 AM by EDMfan.
Got the A/C deleted for some more space in the engine bay, honestly the car ran a little bit better. I didn't expect to feel that much of a difference in power.
I also built an intake for the car, and I know people think its ridiculous and everything and at first I was kind of against it also but after hearing that deeper growl it gave it I'm very happy. I also tried to go a little old school and I deleted the fog light and fed the air filter cone through it.
Here's some photos of the install! -->
http://www.flickr.com/photos/edmfan/6799...8327137293
03-02-2012, 09:50 AM
#15
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
So, did you use that same NA intake mani? I have one like that, I was thinking it might fit with a turbo. But, I've never seen anyone do it.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
03-02-2012, 09:36 PM
#16
Yeah I used the regular intake. And i have a full turbo kit ready to go into the car so once thats installed I'm going to have to re do the intake and I'm going to install the turbo mani. I just wanted to get my hands dirty last weekend haha. But yeah the NA mani should work fine i think.
04-07-2012, 05:54 PM
#18
So I'm finally done rebuilding the turbo, had some trouble with getting the wrong compressor wheel and rebuild kit but its all worked out now. My question is what am I going to have to do to the fuel system when I install this thing? New injectors? Pump? I know when you add more air from the turbo you need to add more fuel or else the engine will run too lean, but is that the same with turbodiesels?
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