sassparilla_kid's 300D Turbodiesel
sassparilla_kid's 300D Turbodiesel
Hi, I have an '82 300D Turbo and just had a few intake and exhaust related questions I have been wondering about lately.
First, I would like to remove the stock air cleaner assembly and replace it, probably with one of those large fram filters, and was just wondering if there is anything special I should know when doing this, and along with this what is the best way to deal with the pcv system?
Secondly, I intend to swap some manifolds in off of a '79 that dond have all of that egr crap on there and would like to know if there is going to be anything that will make this more difficult than it needs to be?
And finally, since I just discovered the exhaust down tube is sheared off at the lower end I was thinking about just removing everything after that since it isn't doing anything or possibly straight piping it, but for some reason my dad is trying to convince me that it will negatively affect performance and fuel economy but I dont see how that is possible.
Thanks
if you put an straight pipe its going to be cheaper on fuel and has more power earlier because the turbo will spool faster,remember,if your alda its maxed,the engine without boost its smoking a lot,just when the turbo kicks in the smoke goes away and the engine produces more power,with the same amount of diesel
PCV, just run a hose down to about 6" off the ground, called a road draft tube. Don't circulate the oil vapor back through the turbo, manifold, engine.... No bueno
The exhaust manifold is cake. If you have the individual runner 115 manifold then you just need to figure out how to attach the boost tube to it.
I am sorry to say but your pops is wrong. If it was a gas engine without turbo, he would be right, but this is different. My downpipe ends where it starts to curve underneath the car.... Shoots at the pavement. I LOVE IT!
Thanks Captain, I came to same conclusion about the exhaust. With the road draft tube setup how much oil can I expect to lose since it isn't being recirculated back into the engine?
re: oil consumption.
Let us know how you do. I draft my ccv and just keep a gallon of rotella in the trunk to top off. I notice oil consumption is exaggerated when I run long and hot like 80 mph+ road trips. Otherwise it is just a little bit.
Probably like 1/4 quart per week and I drive about 350miles a week.
Those ccv are poison anyway. There are some experts here that will tell you about all the nasties that are in that gas.
No Problem.
The oil consumption really depends on how much blow-by there is... When I first bought my SD, it had quite a bit and the oil cap would hop on the valve cover... made me worry. But after driving it the way I drive (somewhat hard) vs. the granny way normal old folk drive these cars, the blow-by almost completely disappeared. I really don't notice any oil consumption, so it just depends
That is good to know, I guess I'll probably be picking up a fram (8038?) sometime in the next week or so, and some sort of hose to vent the pcv down below the car. I guess a large elbow will also help
Yeah, make sure to save that oem 90 on the valve cover. There is very little clearance there between the hood. The draft tube can be 3/4in heater hose I think.
The fram 8038 is smaller than the 8037, right? I have one of each and the larger of the two is a bit crammed in there for my taste.
Also the steel tube to the ol pan needs to be plugged or dealt with in some way.
I just realized the fram just has a large hole in one end, so Im trying to figure out how to connect it. Should I just use a slightly larger diameter pipe and shove it in there so it has a tight fit?
I just bought a filter and some hose so now all I guess I need is the elbow and I should be set, so hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to go find one since I have work later
Venting the oil to the ground is not a super thing to do to the road or the environment. Use a old 240D oil sep unit and then vent to a gatorade bottle filled with fishing line and a large hole on the top of it. The fishing line filled bottle collects the remaining oil vapor. I did this a 20 months ago and have collected about a cup of oil in it. The real question is why you want to change the original air filter set up. It certainly provides great air filtering and is not a drag on the system. Getting a fram filter will not get you any more power with the stock IP unless the IP is highly modified. Removing the rest of the exhaust will get you more power, and sooner in the rpm range. Beware, some think straight pipe is too loud and it drones at some speeds. The non egr exhaust manifold is a better unit and it's swap is straight forward with no tricks.
Awesome, all great to know! Im actually toying with a few oil separator ideas but since Im probably not gonna be putting the new filter setup in for a while I haven't decided yet. The exhaust is definitely gonna go and I hope to see some sort of power increase from that. And for the rest of my to do list, after setting IP timing and the manifold swap, I hope to work on the turbo to get more boost and then the IP modification comes next
1 cup of oil over 20 months is insignificant in my eyes and the stock filter setup is lame.
^^^like, if it wasn't for all of the 180* turns in the filter setup I wouldn't mind as much, and also Im pretty sure the air cleaner bracket is broken because I can shake it. Tomorrow hopefully I'll have enough time to go get an abs elbow and maybe a boost gauge
Yeah that bracket breaks all the time.
Even if it doesn't technically help performance, I love the sound and room acquired with the Fram filter setup
The room is a major plus, the battery is probably gonna be moved to the trunk for more room also, and then I'll have to find something to do with all the extra space
An Air/Water intercooler is perfect!
^^^ That's exactly what I was thinking!!!! Probably not gonna be able to happen for a while though. The next things on my to do list are to swap the non-egr manifolds on, and replace my now slightly crushed oil pan, which I might try to get to on thursday since its my 1 day off this week
Road draft tube works just fine on my car.
I guess maybe it would be a good idea to get an EGT gauge for when I swap manifolds, since I know one of the purposes of the egr system is to lower combustion temperatures
(11-01-2011, 04:45 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess maybe it would be a good idea to get an EGT gauge for when I swap manifolds, since I know one of the purposes of the egr system is to lower combustion temperatures
(11-01-2011, 04:45 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess maybe it would be a good idea to get an EGT gauge for when I swap manifolds, since I know one of the purposes of the egr system is to lower combustion temperatures
(11-01-2011, 06:44 PM)larsalan(11-01-2011, 04:45 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess maybe it would be a good idea to get an EGT gauge for when I swap manifolds, since I know one of the purposes of the egr system is to lower combustion temperatures
Is that so? How is hot ass exhaust being recirculated into your motor supposed to control the overall temp?
(11-01-2011, 06:44 PM)larsalan(11-01-2011, 04:45 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess maybe it would be a good idea to get an EGT gauge for when I swap manifolds, since I know one of the purposes of the egr system is to lower combustion temperatures
Is that so? How is hot ass exhaust being recirculated into your motor supposed to control the overall temp?
"for the purpose of lowering combustion temperatures,"
I don't get how that works. I guess there might be some way using nasty hot gas that didn't burn the first time around in liue of, some nice cool air and fresh fuel can lower exhaust temps.
Doesn't sound good to me right off the bat though.
I agree, it does seem like a waste
It may be due to the lack of oxygen in the recirculated gasses that it causes the egts to lower?? Just a guess.
That is what I was thinking, that it basically chokes the engine. Either way it decreases efficiency
I put the fram 8038 on last night, and after driving around today I decided there wasn't any noticeable change in power, the only thing that really changed was how the car sounds at speeds less than 40 mph. Now I can't decide if I should swap manifolds next or turn up the turbo, any suggestions?
Manifolds it is then, I'll be ordering a new gasket tomorrow. Also installed a boost gauge and was surprised the car still puts out the stock 8 lbs. I came to the conclusion the car is louder because the stock air box was directing the sound of the broken exhaust pipe downwards, and since it is now gone it resononates under the hood some. Probably gonna go see what straight piping will cost in the next week or so because I like being able to hear the radio lol
(11-02-2011, 05:36 AM)larsalan "for the purpose of lowering combustion temperatures,"
I don't get how that works. I guess there might be some way using nasty hot gas that didn't burn the first time around in liue of, some nice cool air and fresh fuel can lower exhaust temps.
Doesn't sound good to me right off the bat though.
(11-02-2011, 05:36 AM)larsalan "for the purpose of lowering combustion temperatures,"
I don't get how that works. I guess there might be some way using nasty hot gas that didn't burn the first time around in liue of, some nice cool air and fresh fuel can lower exhaust temps.
Doesn't sound good to me right off the bat though.
When the EGR system gets removed, what should I do with the vacuum lines on top of the valve cover that control the egr valve, just block them??
(11-05-2011, 03:04 PM)sassparilla_kid When the EGR system gets removed, what should I do with the vacuum lines on top of the valve cover that control the egr valve, just block them??
(11-05-2011, 03:04 PM)sassparilla_kid When the EGR system gets removed, what should I do with the vacuum lines on top of the valve cover that control the egr valve, just block them??
Yeah that's pretty much what I was planning on doing, or maybe putting in a vacuum gauge inside the cab. And as for the turbo it just has the stock Garrett T3 so I have no idea what would need to be done for more boost. On a related note I have an extra one in the garage I can screw around with
(11-06-2011, 04:28 PM)sassparilla_kid Garrett T3 so I have no idea what would need to be done for more boost.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NXS-MANUAL-BOOST...756wt_1270
(11-06-2011, 04:28 PM)sassparilla_kid Garrett T3 so I have no idea what would need to be done for more boost.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NXS-MANUAL-BOOST...756wt_1270
Im not sure If I correctly understand how this thing works? Basically it uses boost pressure (tee into ALDA line?) to control the wastegate actuator? I undertand the concept (for the most part) but I think I'd need to see a picture of one installed or be looking at the turbo on the car to see how it all comes together
So the two ports with hose barbs would essentially be connected in series into the the line from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator? So it is preventing/delaying the boost pressure from reaching the actuator until the set boost pushes the bearing back. If that's correct then it makes perfect sense now
Yeah It just bleeds off boost pressure to trick the wastegate into functioning at a higher pressure
Well that seems simple enough, I guess I'll be ordering one up sometime in the near future then
Yeah I'd rather pay a little more for the convenience at this point, although I probably wont be doing anything with the turbo until after I swap manifolds
Upping the boost now to at least 10 will help a tad before the mani swap
i still need to get a boost gauge. man working on cars sucks when you dont have any money for parts lol.
(11-08-2011, 06:45 PM)iheartboost i still need to get a boost gauge. man working on cars sucks when you dont have any money for parts lol.
Brew your own beer!! My friend and I want to try our hands at brewing since our still broke lol. Yeah I plan on ordering one of those boost controllers sooon, since its probably gonna be a little while until I have the time to swap manifolds, especially since I don't have the gaskets yet haha, but the guy at napa said he was gonna order them tomorrow morning so we'll see what happens
Adjusting the wastegate takes about 1 give or take for me. Feels like longer though cause of the frustrating little parts and the tiny area they are in.
just disconnect the waste gate FULL BOOST! lol jk
Hahaha that would be awesome except if anything happened to the car I would have to drive a bright red saturn vue :/