3.5 inch down pipe OM617
3.5 inch down pipe OM617
I want a new exhaust on my '84 300 SD. Going to do everything myself instead of taking it to a shop. Really would like 3.5 inch pipe all the way back. With a flex tube and a glass pack. How should a go about making the downpipe? And the turbo flange? (I don't have a pipe bender)
Nope. You think 3.5 is to big?
3 inch is all you need. And if you're not going to upgrade the turbo and add fuel its a lot of work for minimal gains (other than to your ears).
If you have a welder, you can get a 45 degree mandrel bent piece and adapt it on the stock turbo.
The IP will be cranked up, the turbo will stay stock for now.
If you plan on cranking up the fuel and boost, go for it but you would be fine with 3 inch. Any bigger isn't worth the added cost and effort IMO
The only reason mines 3.5" is cause it was free. Left over stock exhaust from a superduty.
Yea for a 617 you dont need that much flow unless youve done quite a bit of work
I have 3" from the downpipe back and i think it sounds awesome. I think 3.5 would just be more of a hassle. IMO
3.5 is more weight too. which we already have plenty of lol.
I think it isn't going to be much fun doing it myself. Its going to be a bitch getting all the right pieces brought online. Anybody have and resources where I could buy the prebent pipe? Or a pipe bender?
The way I plan on running a full exhaust is buying 3 or 4 flex sections and a couple 10ft sections from the local exhaust shop, using the flex sections for the bends, cutting the appropriate straight sections and clamping them together.
Just to give you an idea
just get some pre bent peices and dump it out behind the front tire thats what i plan to do. cheaper, lighter, and less time consuming.
The noise is fun for a while but at least in my case it got old.
Fuck it! Going to buy a pipe bender.
http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop...35336.html
Ewww crush bend.
I think it should be fine
Yea it will be fine. If you go with 3in piping a little crush wont kill your performance.
I am a brat...I gotta get the mandrel bend for my project :-)
Blowin smoke on ppl at bus stops with the front fender exit exhaust NEVER gets old!
thats what im sayin! i want to be able to smoke people lol.
My car stopped smoking after I adjusted IP timing, and the ALDA is maxxed
sounds like you just need to remove the alda
Is there really much of a difference between maxxed alda and removed alda?
Some old timey guy told me they used to shim under the nut that holds the alda in place with a coin. Even if the alda is maxed all the way out it the whole unit can be too far down.
Have you ever had one off? You'll see what I mean. But if it's truly backed off all the way and not resting on that plunger that limits fuel. Then, it's the same as if it was removed.
My last 617 dropped bombs when I took the alda off but, that's not the case with this one. I dunno why. Pump is set different I guess.
(12-24-2011, 01:23 AM)sassparilla_kid Is there really much of a difference between maxxed alda and removed alda?
(12-24-2011, 01:23 AM)sassparilla_kid Is there really much of a difference between maxxed alda and removed alda?
(12-24-2011, 10:59 AM)led-panzer(12-24-2011, 01:23 AM)sassparilla_kid Is there really much of a difference between maxxed alda and removed alda?
Yes. Big difference. Just go pop it off, it takes 5 minutes. If for any reason you don't like it, just go put it back on. Make sure you plug or remove the boost line if you remove it.
(12-24-2011, 10:59 AM)led-panzer(12-24-2011, 01:23 AM)sassparilla_kid Is there really much of a difference between maxxed alda and removed alda?
Yes. Big difference. Just go pop it off, it takes 5 minutes. If for any reason you don't like it, just go put it back on. Make sure you plug or remove the boost line if you remove it.
Yeah, I have removed the one on this car and my previous. It was not super easy. I needed to make a huge box wrench. I think I grinded a smaller into 1-1/8 or something cause I didn't have one. And put a steel shaft into where the alda vac line would be. Add a breaker bar to that and then it will "pop right off"
But now that's it's loose it can go on and off with ease. Just the first time that's the pita.
Remember
lefty tighty, righty loosy on the alda nut bahahahaha
And that harbor freight bender... SUCKS!
Really? Do u have one?
My buddy has one. Yea it likes to crinkle the pipe in the center. You want a Bender that pulls the pipe along with it, not one that trust to snap it in the middle like a toothpick
Fuck that shit. Thanks for telling me this. Im just going to have a shop bend and weld everything up for like 175 bucks
Just find an appropriately sized lamp post and take a field trip to it with a hand held torch and some pipe, all thats left is heat pipe and have an extra person to help bend it once hot lol
Read one of the reviews about that bender...
"If your bending tubing with this, weld a cap onto one end of your tubing, fill the entire tube with sand and weld a cap on the second end. So should have a tube with a cap on either end, and packed with sand. Then do your bends on your tube, you will get mandrel bends this way, meaning the tube will be nearly perfectly round after bending it on the bender instead of crimping or kinking. Cut both ends off and save sand for next tube. Your products will come out cleanly with this method."
Not a bad idea... might not work but it makes sense. The sand would keep the pipe from crushing when bending. If you can get a shop to bend/weld everything for $175 I think that is a better deal. Unless you are planning to do more cars haha.
The sand trick should work.
Here is a picture of thin, EZ to crink and screw up copper tubing. I filled it with salt, pack it so that there is no voids, crimped the ends and I coiled this by hand a few years ago. This is 10' or 15' feet of tubing, so I was a little surprised how little the coil ended up being. The key is to make sure the sand or whatever medium you are using is tightly packed with no voids. I used a simple $5 tube bender and inserted a steel pipe thru the center of the tube bender for leverage. As for something big and thick, same theory should apply except you will need something correspondingly bigger.
Looks like the condenser coil from my still lol, I wish I hadn't broken that thing
Hey -- it looks like it could go to a still ... you just gave me an idea ....
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
(12-30-2011, 05:11 PM)Greazzer Hey -- it looks like it could go to a still ... you just gave me an idea ....
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
(12-30-2011, 05:11 PM)Greazzer Hey -- it looks like it could go to a still ... you just gave me an idea ....
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
I've seen the sand trick on YouTube but that's just WAY to much work!!!
Thats what im saying captain haha. Filling and welding caps for every stupid bend lol
Yup!!
Did you ever go through with the new exhaust?
Holding off until I instal my cat turbo...
Oh aright, I was just wondering if you were gonna end up doing it yourself or have it done at a shop or something
Going to have it done at a shop. Having a 3in down pipe made and installing it my self...
You gotta come by me in chicago. I payed 140 for 3" and a muffler . Mounted welded everything from manifold back. No joke the place is called "mexico muffler"
I got a place thats going to do it for like 70 bucks. Just waiting until march for my vaccation when I instal my new cat turbo.
(12-29-2011, 04:02 PM)capflya Read one of the reviews about that bender...
"If your bending tubing with this, weld a cap onto one end of your tubing, fill the entire tube with sand and weld a cap on the second end. So should have a tube with a cap on either end, and packed with sand. Then do your bends on your tube, you will get mandrel bends this way, meaning the tube will be nearly perfectly round after bending it on the bender instead of crimping or kinking. Cut both ends off and save sand for next tube. Your products will come out cleanly with this method."
(12-29-2011, 04:02 PM)capflya Read one of the reviews about that bender...
"If your bending tubing with this, weld a cap onto one end of your tubing, fill the entire tube with sand and weld a cap on the second end. So should have a tube with a cap on either end, and packed with sand. Then do your bends on your tube, you will get mandrel bends this way, meaning the tube will be nearly perfectly round after bending it on the bender instead of crimping or kinking. Cut both ends off and save sand for next tube. Your products will come out cleanly with this method."