GT2056V + Manifold + Methanol Intake
GT2056V + Manifold + Methanol Intake
No shaft play on the turbo
The turbo uses the stock downpipe connector
The not-so-good:
The car it was on sat in salty NY for a winter, and the outer surfaces corroded.
I ran a redneck regulation system for the VGT instead of buying a second pressure actuator to stack on the vacuum actuator. My setup "works", but it also can pump air into the vacuum system...no bueno. So you will need to scare up a pressure actuator to run this properly.
The cheap camera makes everything look twice as corroded, I'll try and get some clear photos of the parts later on. That turbo impeller is dirty, it's not worn at all-the fins are still sharp.
I ran this for ~20,000 miles it all holds pressure.
Garret GT2056V from a Jeep
EGR has been blocked off, 1/4" outlet for exhaust pressure was installed in it's place.
I painted the manifold with VHT red, cured it in an oven, and the salt corroded it right off.
There is a 1/4"-20 threaded hole with a K-type thermocouple installed pre-turbo for a pyrometer.
Stock intake manifold with bungs welded onto each port for methanol injection. I ran injectors from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#spray-tips/=fvggt8 part # 3178K41)
A boost controller that I made is installed in the EGR port, last I checked it was set at 16psi. I can include a blockoff plate if you would prefer.
IIRC I have spent:
$120 on turbo
$100 on manifolds
$60 on brass/tubing/sprayers (methanol)
$10 on plate steel
$20 on the oil line adaptation
$40 on gaskets/ seals/ fittings
[$350 total]
And MANY hours in the shop...make me an offer and we will see if I laugh or not :p
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Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-18-2012, 10:25 PM #1The good:
No shaft play on the turbo
The turbo uses the stock downpipe connector
The not-so-good:
The car it was on sat in salty NY for a winter, and the outer surfaces corroded.
I ran a redneck regulation system for the VGT instead of buying a second pressure actuator to stack on the vacuum actuator. My setup "works", but it also can pump air into the vacuum system...no bueno. So you will need to scare up a pressure actuator to run this properly.
The cheap camera makes everything look twice as corroded, I'll try and get some clear photos of the parts later on. That turbo impeller is dirty, it's not worn at all-the fins are still sharp.
I ran this for ~20,000 miles it all holds pressure.
Garret GT2056V from a Jeep
EGR has been blocked off, 1/4" outlet for exhaust pressure was installed in it's place.
I painted the manifold with VHT red, cured it in an oven, and the salt corroded it right off.
There is a 1/4"-20 threaded hole with a K-type thermocouple installed pre-turbo for a pyrometer.
Stock intake manifold with bungs welded onto each port for methanol injection. I ran injectors from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#spray-tips/=fvggt8 part # 3178K41)
A boost controller that I made is installed in the EGR port, last I checked it was set at 16psi. I can include a blockoff plate if you would prefer.
IIRC I have spent:
$120 on turbo
$100 on manifolds
$60 on brass/tubing/sprayers (methanol)
$10 on plate steel
$20 on the oil line adaptation
$40 on gaskets/ seals/ fittings
[$350 total]
And MANY hours in the shop...make me an offer and we will see if I laugh or not :p
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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