Garrett 712120 VNT Hella 6NW 008 412 actuator.
Garrett 712120 VNT Hella 6NW 008 412 actuator.
Maybe there's a non-volitile bit that gets set via CAN to enable pwm?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
We need a can bus snooper, and some time.
Maybe there's a non-volitile bit that gets set via CAN to enable pwm?
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(12-02-2010, 12:31 PM)Tymbrymi(12-02-2010, 10:03 AM)winmutt Is that a wag or you know this for a fact. That would indicate more than likely there is an eeprom somewhere.....
Not quite a WAG, but it makes a whole lot of sense. Not sure what to make about the PN thing though. You sure there isn't a revision number on the outside somewhere? I don't have my actuator anymore...
There is flash memory in most microcontrollers, which is what they'd use to load their program.
I just got my turbo in a couple days ago. It has the same Hella and Garrett part numbers, but also a '3' on it. Do you think this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled? Or, just a random number on it? Also, I just got my Parallax Propeller stuff in too, but I'm still reading the freakin manual to figure out what the hell I'm doing. LOL I'm planning on using the Propeller to control the actuator, using the Innovate wideband output to keep it at around 20:1 AFR.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(12-02-2010, 12:31 PM)Tymbrymi(12-02-2010, 10:03 AM)winmutt Is that a wag or you know this for a fact. That would indicate more than likely there is an eeprom somewhere.....
Not quite a WAG, but it makes a whole lot of sense. Not sure what to make about the PN thing though. You sure there isn't a revision number on the outside somewhere? I don't have my actuator anymore...
There is flash memory in most microcontrollers, which is what they'd use to load their program.
I just got my turbo in a couple days ago. It has the same Hella and Garrett part numbers, but also a '3' on it. Do you think this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled? Or, just a random number on it? Also, I just got my Parallax Propeller stuff in too, but I'm still reading the freakin manual to figure out what the hell I'm doing. LOL I'm planning on using the Propeller to control the actuator, using the Innovate wideband output to keep it at around 20:1 AFR.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
:pEthernet is cool though.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
A prop is overkill, but not as much overkill as ethernet. :p
Ethernet is cool though.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(12-16-2010, 11:55 AM)300D50 A prop is overkill, but not as much overkill as ethernet.
Ethernet is cool though.
I'm ok with overkill... I plan on adding additional functions to the Prop chip anyways.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(12-16-2010, 11:55 AM)300D50 A prop is overkill, but not as much overkill as ethernet.
Ethernet is cool though.
I'm ok with overkill... I plan on adding additional functions to the Prop chip anyways.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
In that case, I want to see it with an EGT based "turbo/engine saver" made with one of the awesome Maxim semiconductor digital K-type thermocouple interface IC's
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Funny you mention that... EGT, Max Boost, and Exhaust Manifold Pressure are some of the add-ons I'm thinking of.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Where did you get this image?
Look at post #25 on this thread.
(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Are you sure the PWM is not working?
Yes, I'm sure. But I want to find out if my actuator fail or it's normal.
(12-16-2010, 11:49 AM)Biohazard I just got my turbo in a couple days ago. It has the same Hella and Garrett part numbers, but also a '3' on it. Do you think this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled? Or, just a random number on it?
I take a note of this. I don't know if this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled or it's random number because I haven't enough examples.
The actuator which is control via CAN only, have '1'.
I have still two actuators, both with '2' and I can them control via PWM without any problem. But look at http://www.superturbodiesel.co/std/attac...p?aid=1210 This actuator have '2' (in center square) and controled via CAN (occupied pin 3 and 5)!
What the number 'x' and type of control your actuator has? Please send this info... maybe we find same rule.
Best regards,
Darqs
Hi
(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Where did you get this image?
Look at post #25 on this thread.
(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Are you sure the PWM is not working?
Yes, I'm sure. But I want to find out if my actuator fail or it's normal.
(12-16-2010, 11:49 AM)Biohazard I just got my turbo in a couple days ago. It has the same Hella and Garrett part numbers, but also a '3' on it. Do you think this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled? Or, just a random number on it?
I take a note of this. I don't know if this number is relevant to being CAN or PWM controlled or it's random number because I haven't enough examples.
The actuator which is control via CAN only, have '1'.
I have still two actuators, both with '2' and I can them control via PWM without any problem. But look at http://www.superturbodiesel.co/std/attac...p?aid=1210 This actuator have '2' (in center square) and controled via CAN (occupied pin 3 and 5)!
What the number 'x' and type of control your actuator has? Please send this info... maybe we find same rule.
Best regards,
Darqs
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Its the 712120; 6NW 008 412 actuator with a random 3 on it. I should've taken a pic of it, will try to remember when I get home. It's a GT2259V from an '05 E320 CDI. I don't know if its CAN or PWM. Still need some freetime and such to see if it will respond to PWM. I'm not set up for sending CAN messages yet, not even entirely sure if I'm set up for sending the correct PWM signal either.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(12-16-2010, 08:35 PM)Biohazard Funny you mention that... EGT, Max Boost, and Exhaust Manifold Pressure are some of the add-ons I'm thinking of.
Take a look at this chip, it does most of what you need for thermocouple interfacing, without all the nasty analog signal path or ADC stuff.
It's quite cheap considering what it does!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(12-16-2010, 08:35 PM)Biohazard Funny you mention that... EGT, Max Boost, and Exhaust Manifold Pressure are some of the add-ons I'm thinking of.
Take a look at this chip, it does most of what you need for thermocouple interfacing, without all the nasty analog signal path or ADC stuff.
It's quite cheap considering what it does!
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
I took a pic of the actuator, will post it up later. The computer is being slow and angry right now.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Cool! Thanks for the link. I spent several hours yesterday attempting to learn more about my new Prop chip. Wow. Reminded quickly that I'm a noob when it comes to programing stuff. Haha! Oh well, gotta learn sometime. I took a pic of the actuator, will post it up later. The computer is being slow and angry right now.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Wow. So I completely forgot to add this pic in. Doh! So the "3" is in the middle of the unit all by itself. I'm told my turbo came off an 05 E320 CDI, which should be PWM controled. I'm trying to make my Prop chip do the PWM, but either I'm doing it wrong, or it just isn't responding. Good chance I'm just doing it wrong, btw.
I'm sending 9v to pin1, Ground to pin2 and PWM signal to Pin4 on the Actuator; Pin1 being the round side. I'm using 7.1ms with various duty cycles, but it isn't responding to any of it. I believe the Prop chip is sending the PWM at 3.3v, is that too low? Should it be 5v?
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
[attachment=4030]
Wow. So I completely forgot to add this pic in. Doh! So the "3" is in the middle of the unit all by itself. I'm told my turbo came off an 05 E320 CDI, which should be PWM controled. I'm trying to make my Prop chip do the PWM, but either I'm doing it wrong, or it just isn't responding. Good chance I'm just doing it wrong, btw. I'm sending 9v to pin1, Ground to pin2 and PWM signal to Pin4 on the Actuator; Pin1 being the round side. I'm using 7.1ms with various duty cycles, but it isn't responding to any of it. I believe the Prop chip is sending the PWM at 3.3v, is that too low? Should it be 5v?
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(01-16-2011, 10:42 PM)Biohazard I'm sending 9v to pin1, Ground to pin2 and PWM signal to Pin4 on the Actuator; Pin1 being the round side. I'm using 7.1ms with various duty cycles, but it isn't responding to any of it. I believe the Prop chip is sending the PWM at 3.3v, is that too low? Should it be 5v?
Should be 9V in your case. I think you have to increase PWM voltage to power supply level.
Why your power supply is 9V instead of 12V?
Best regards,
Darqs
Hi
(01-16-2011, 10:42 PM)Biohazard I'm sending 9v to pin1, Ground to pin2 and PWM signal to Pin4 on the Actuator; Pin1 being the round side. I'm using 7.1ms with various duty cycles, but it isn't responding to any of it. I believe the Prop chip is sending the PWM at 3.3v, is that too low? Should it be 5v?
Should be 9V in your case. I think you have to increase PWM voltage to power supply level.
Why your power supply is 9V instead of 12V?
Best regards,
Darqs
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Thanks Darqs. Its at 9v because I'm using a regular 9v battery and testing this while I'm sitting on the couch! Haha! The prop chip runs on 3.3v, so I'm going to have to figure out another meathod to PWM at 9v. Thanks for the help!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(12-17-2010, 03:49 AM)Darqs(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Are you sure the PWM is not working?
Yes, I'm sure. But I want to find out if my actuator fail or it's normal.
Hi Darqs,
found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I need test these actuators and have some questions:
- which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
- or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
- if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
Many thanks in advance.
(12-17-2010, 03:49 AM)Darqs(12-15-2010, 09:14 AM)winmutt Are you sure the PWM is not working?
Yes, I'm sure. But I want to find out if my actuator fail or it's normal.
Hi Darqs,
found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I need test these actuators and have some questions:
- which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
- or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
- if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
Many thanks in advance.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali Hi Darqs,
found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I need test these actuators and have some questions:
- which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
- or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
- if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
Many thanks in advance.
Hi,
open it and post a pic of the electronics inside and I can tell you if CAN or PWM.
Tom
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali Hi Darqs,
found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I need test these actuators and have some questions:
- which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
- or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
- if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
Many thanks in advance.
Hi,
open it and post a pic of the electronics inside and I can tell you if CAN or PWM.
Tom
(04-15-2011, 08:03 AM)tomnik Hi,
open it and post a pic of the electronics inside and I can tell you if CAN or PWM.
Tom
i have two actuators on the bench. There are some differences (some resistors).
Garrett_1: is now faulty, but i think, this one has sent CAN signal (before)
Garrett_2: don't send CAN signal and don't work with PWM
Which one should work with PWM?
(04-15-2011, 08:03 AM)tomnik Hi,
open it and post a pic of the electronics inside and I can tell you if CAN or PWM.
Tom
i have two actuators on the bench. There are some differences (some resistors).
Garrett_1: is now faulty, but i think, this one has sent CAN signal (before)
Garrett_2: don't send CAN signal and don't work with PWM
Which one should work with PWM?
(04-18-2011, 01:30 AM)Pali Do you mean this capacitor?
And one question about PWM. I'm trying with rectangle singnal, 140Hz. This is actually PWM 50%. The actuator should move in the middle position. Or is this wrong idea?
I mean the big blue one left.
My other actuator does not have this and my electronic buddy said that this capacitor is the indication for PWM.
How it reacts on different % I don't know, I never got it to work.
I have one single PWM actuator but it seems to be dead.
Check out haengomensch on youtube, he got one to react.
140Hz and rectangle signal is correct.
I believe that you have to apply the +PWM to pin 4.
Tom
(04-18-2011, 01:30 AM)Pali Do you mean this capacitor?
And one question about PWM. I'm trying with rectangle singnal, 140Hz. This is actually PWM 50%. The actuator should move in the middle position. Or is this wrong idea?
I mean the big blue one left.
My other actuator does not have this and my electronic buddy said that this capacitor is the indication for PWM.
How it reacts on different % I don't know, I never got it to work.
I have one single PWM actuator but it seems to be dead.
Check out haengomensch on youtube, he got one to react.
140Hz and rectangle signal is correct.
I believe that you have to apply the +PWM to pin 4.
Tom
Yes, i have apply rect. signal on pin 4.
Can anybody confirm, that the actuator works with rect. signal 140Hz (moves he to the middle position)?
Many thanks in advance.
I think, the big blue capacitor is not the indication for PWM. He is on power supply (pin 1,2) and he serve as supply filtering (from my opinion).
Yes, i have apply rect. signal on pin 4.
Can anybody confirm, that the actuator works with rect. signal 140Hz (moves he to the middle position)?
Many thanks in advance.
(04-18-2011, 02:59 AM)Pali I think, the big blue capacitor is not the indication for PWM. He is on power supply (pin 1,2) and he serve as supply filtering (from my opinion).
Yes, i have apply rect. signal on pin 4.
Can anybody confirm, that the actuator works with rect. signal 140Hz (moves he to the middle position)?
Many thanks in advance.
I can't confirm the pin at the moment, but a 50% 140Hz square wave should cause it to move to approximately the middle position.
I highly doubt the big cap would have anything to do with PWM, its definitely there for input power filtering. The only differences I can see in the 2 boards seem to be some other capacitors. I'd assume they are filtering capacitors that were later found to be not necessary and removed to save on costs, but its possible that the PWM signal passes through one of them. I'll scope them when I'm done with the next controller design..last one was ready for production before I lost it, damn hard drive failures...
I have a video on youtube somewhere as well showing the signal on a scope and the actuator at the same time.
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
(04-18-2011, 02:59 AM)Pali I think, the big blue capacitor is not the indication for PWM. He is on power supply (pin 1,2) and he serve as supply filtering (from my opinion).
Yes, i have apply rect. signal on pin 4.
Can anybody confirm, that the actuator works with rect. signal 140Hz (moves he to the middle position)?
Many thanks in advance.
I can't confirm the pin at the moment, but a 50% 140Hz square wave should cause it to move to approximately the middle position.
I highly doubt the big cap would have anything to do with PWM, its definitely there for input power filtering. The only differences I can see in the 2 boards seem to be some other capacitors. I'd assume they are filtering capacitors that were later found to be not necessary and removed to save on costs, but its possible that the PWM signal passes through one of them. I'll scope them when I'm done with the next controller design..last one was ready for production before I lost it, damn hard drive failures...
I have a video on youtube somewhere as well showing the signal on a scope and the actuator at the same time.
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
(04-19-2011, 02:33 AM)Pali @300SD81:
Thanks,
i saw your video, that start me up
When must i connect the PWM signal? Before power ON, few second after power on, or it does not matter?
Both work, but I'd do it after to be safe. I don't know if/how the input is protected going into the chip, but applying input before Vcc is usually a bad idea in electronics (can cause latchup).
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
(04-19-2011, 02:33 AM)Pali @300SD81:
Thanks,
i saw your video, that start me up
When must i connect the PWM signal? Before power ON, few second after power on, or it does not matter?
Both work, but I'd do it after to be safe. I don't know if/how the input is protected going into the chip, but applying input before Vcc is usually a bad idea in electronics (can cause latchup).
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Key-3RuVxrY
I have changed the position manually, then connect power supply, no PWM.
Actuator moves back to beginning. By touch/knock make the actuator little motions.
Is this behavior normal (this little motions)?
BTW: this actuator don't work with PWM and don't send CAN messages. Numbers on actuators:
Garrett 712120
Hella 6NW 008 412
2
H13 G-103 19024
this is my actuator:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Key-3RuVxrY
I have changed the position manually, then connect power supply, no PWM.
Actuator moves back to beginning. By touch/knock make the actuator little motions.
Is this behavior normal (this little motions)?
BTW: this actuator don't work with PWM and don't send CAN messages. Numbers on actuators:
Garrett 712120
Hella 6NW 008 412
2
H13 G-103 19024
(04-20-2011, 08:39 AM)Pali Actuator moves back to beginning. By touch/knock make the actuator little motions.Yes.
Is this behavior normal (this little motions)?
What are you using for pwm? Make sure you are using 8bit valuest (0-255). With my Arduino I was using 1024 which was a nogo.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(04-20-2011, 08:39 AM)Pali Actuator moves back to beginning. By touch/knock make the actuator little motions.Yes.
Is this behavior normal (this little motions)?
What are you using for pwm? Make sure you are using 8bit valuest (0-255). With my Arduino I was using 1024 which was a nogo.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Know anybody, which actuator (which number) works with PWM and which only with CAN?
My actuator has number: H13 G-103 19024
I use signal generator and constant rectangle signal 140Hz. This is actually PWM 50% and the actuator should moves to the middle position.
Know anybody, which actuator (which number) works with PWM and which only with CAN?
My actuator has number: H13 G-103 19024
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I think, my actuator is ok. I have two actuators don't work via PWM but work fine in car.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
I don't know how to recognize actuator by pcb but I found following:
1. Actuator form BMW 2.0, Ford 1.8 doesn't work via PWM
2. Actuator from Mercedes works via PWM
All actuators have the same part number (712120, 6NW008412), but there is difference in center square number: BMW and Ford have '4', Mercedes has '2'.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
I don't think so.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
I know CAN message form Hella actuator to engine ecu. I need CAN message TO Hella actuator. Look post #95 on this thread.
Best regards,
Darqs
Hi Pali
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali found you out, if your actuator fail or not?
I think, my actuator is ok. I have two actuators don't work via PWM but work fine in car.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - which actuator should work with PWM and which only with CAN.
I don't know how to recognize actuator by pcb but I found following:
1. Actuator form BMW 2.0, Ford 1.8 doesn't work via PWM
2. Actuator from Mercedes works via PWM
All actuators have the same part number (712120, 6NW008412), but there is difference in center square number: BMW and Ford have '4', Mercedes has '2'.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - or all actuators should work with PWM and if not work, is the actuator faulty?
I don't think so.
(04-15-2011, 07:20 AM)Pali - if some actuators work only with CAN, have anybody foud out, how to test these actuators?
I know CAN message form Hella actuator to engine ecu. I need CAN message TO Hella actuator. Look post #95 on this thread.
Best regards,
Darqs
(07-01-2011, 04:07 AM)Darqs Hi
I'm looking for Hella actuator wiring for Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI?
Anybody can help?
Best regards,
Darqs
No sorry but if you find it please post it. What are you doing?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(07-01-2011, 04:07 AM)Darqs Hi
I'm looking for Hella actuator wiring for Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI?
Anybody can help?
Best regards,
Darqs
No sorry but if you find it please post it. What are you doing?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(07-01-2011, 03:57 PM)winmutt No sorry but if you find it please post it. What are you doing?
I'm trying to find out how turbo actuator is control.
Owners Mondeo 2.0 TDCI ~2007 year, please look at yours turbo actuator and tell how it's connect - how many wires? which pins?
Best reagrds,
Darqs
Thanks for the information posted here so far. I know it's been a while for this thread, but still wondering about some things..
Just for clarification once again, if I'm lucky and my Hella actuator actually IS the PWM type, which it should be (712120-1 from a MB mid-2000 CDI?), the correct settings are:
Pin 1: 12V (at round connector side?)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 4: PWM @12V, DC between 5 and 95%, with 50% being center position
Please let me know if this is correct.
Also, anybody ever found out how to make sure it's PWM and not CAN controlled by looking at the actuator insides or by it's part number?
Thanks!
Andi
Hey there guys,
Thanks for the information posted here so far. I know it's been a while for this thread, but still wondering about some things..
Just for clarification once again, if I'm lucky and my Hella actuator actually IS the PWM type, which it should be (712120-1 from a MB mid-2000 CDI?), the correct settings are:
Pin 1: 12V (at round connector side?)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 4: PWM @12V, DC between 5 and 95%, with 50% being center position
Please let me know if this is correct.
Also, anybody ever found out how to make sure it's PWM and not CAN controlled by looking at the actuator insides or by it's part number?
Thanks!
Andi
Connections from terminals to the PCB / IC should be fine though, according to multimeter probing.Any inputs? Pretty Pleeeaase!
Played around with a function generator last week, output verified with an osci to be @140Hz and 0-10V (that's all the generator could do) but that thing didn't budge a bit. Shortly applied 12 Volts to the motor terminals and it would move that way, but not with the PWM signal actuation Connections from terminals to the PCB / IC should be fine though, according to multimeter probing.
Any inputs? Pretty Pleeeaase!
(01-25-2012, 02:45 PM)janus Just for clarification once again, if I'm lucky and my Hella actuator actually IS the PWM type, which it should be (712120-1 from a MB mid-2000 CDI?), the correct settings are:Yes, it is correct. Set PWM freq to 140Hz.
Pin 1: 12V (at round connector side?)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 4: PWM @12V, DC between 5 and 95%, with 50% being center position
Please let me know if this is correct.
(01-25-2012, 02:45 PM)janus Also, anybody ever found out how to make sure it's PWM and not CAN controlled by looking at the actuator insides or by it's part number?I get some info from guy which done somthing like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ha_i6oCzhzM
He told me, that only Hella actuator form Ford 2.0 TDCI 130KM works via CAN, other actuators works via PWM.
Best regards,
Darqs
(01-25-2012, 02:45 PM)janus Just for clarification once again, if I'm lucky and my Hella actuator actually IS the PWM type, which it should be (712120-1 from a MB mid-2000 CDI?), the correct settings are:Yes, it is correct. Set PWM freq to 140Hz.
Pin 1: 12V (at round connector side?)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 4: PWM @12V, DC between 5 and 95%, with 50% being center position
Please let me know if this is correct.
(01-25-2012, 02:45 PM)janus Also, anybody ever found out how to make sure it's PWM and not CAN controlled by looking at the actuator insides or by it's part number?I get some info from guy which done somthing like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ha_i6oCzhzM
He told me, that only Hella actuator form Ford 2.0 TDCI 130KM works via CAN, other actuators works via PWM.
Best regards,
Darqs
Thanks for your feedback! Meanwhile i have already tried to get my actuator to work with a signal generator, but no luck so far
I got the 140Hz PWM verified on an oscilloscope and it was just fine, DC also was spot on to whatever i set it at. I was wondering though if the signal generator's 10V were okay as for the PWM voltage? That's all it can do, but from what i saw in Tym.. (John?)'s youtube video, that should work too.Any input on the PWM voltage?
Maybe my actuator is just toast
Thanks
Andi
Darqs,
Thanks for your feedback! Meanwhile i have already tried to get my actuator to work with a signal generator, but no luck so far I got the 140Hz PWM verified on an oscilloscope and it was just fine, DC also was spot on to whatever i set it at. I was wondering though if the signal generator's 10V were okay as for the PWM voltage? That's all it can do, but from what i saw in Tym.. (John?)'s youtube video, that should work too.
Any input on the PWM voltage?
Maybe my actuator is just toast
Thanks
Andi
(02-20-2012, 11:13 PM)janus I was wondering though if the signal generator's 10V were okay as for the PWM voltage? That's all it can do, but from what i saw in Tym.. (John?)'s youtube video, that should work too.
Any input on the PWM voltage?
Try to use transistor in open collector mode as output sage. In this case you won't need care about high level PWM voltage.
Best regards,
Darqs
(02-20-2012, 11:13 PM)janus I was wondering though if the signal generator's 10V were okay as for the PWM voltage? That's all it can do, but from what i saw in Tym.. (John?)'s youtube video, that should work too.
Any input on the PWM voltage?
Try to use transistor in open collector mode as output sage. In this case you won't need care about high level PWM voltage.
Best regards,
Darqs
some news, just got off the line talking to a guy working at Hella's actuators department and here is what I got:
This info is for the 6NW 008 412 and 6NW 009 420 (John/Tymbrymi was using this one imho) models, maybe others too but I just asked for these two. I was also asked for the G- designation on the aluminium housing, which should say something like G-139, G-149, ... but dunno what that is referring to.
Pinout as listed several times is
1: 12V
2: GND
3: CAN_H
4: PWM
5: CAN_L
According to him they feature both CAN and PWM, but it should also be possible to control the actuator using PWM only on Pin 4. So from what i was told there are no versions that are limited to CAN or PWM only. I was also told that there will be a grounding pulse on that pin 4 for about 1 second if there's an error. When using PWM only you will get kind of like an Open Loop control without any feedback about the actuators position. I guess CAN could be used for a greater sense of handling errors or feedback/closed loop control along with some parameters and details like that, but for me PWM OL control is just fine.
Also, from some other source, it appears the controller IC on the PCB is a variant of a L9805E from STmicroelectronics.
So I'll try again to interface that actuator I have but pretty sure it's just toast..
(10-23-2009, 03:51 PM)Tymbrymi(10-23-2009, 01:41 PM)winmutt Kind of. Arduino only makes 5volts for the PWM signal
You'll need to get an n-channel logic level MOSFET. Basically it'll act as a 12V switch activated by a 5V signal. I can post more later if you want, but I'm feeling lazy right now so I'll post more about it later.
Anyone with some details on this or the Open Collector output stage? I don't know too much about those electronics
Still not sure I did it right.. I used a function generator with a 10V, 140Hz PWM but nothing worked
When connecting 12V to Pin 4, wouldn't that make it receive a 100% DC signal? Or will I burn it up that way..Thanks for any input
Hey guys,
some news, just got off the line talking to a guy working at Hella's actuators department and here is what I got:
This info is for the 6NW 008 412 and 6NW 009 420 (John/Tymbrymi was using this one imho) models, maybe others too but I just asked for these two. I was also asked for the G- designation on the aluminium housing, which should say something like G-139, G-149, ... but dunno what that is referring to.
Pinout as listed several times is
1: 12V
2: GND
3: CAN_H
4: PWM
5: CAN_L
According to him they feature both CAN and PWM, but it should also be possible to control the actuator using PWM only on Pin 4. So from what i was told there are no versions that are limited to CAN or PWM only. I was also told that there will be a grounding pulse on that pin 4 for about 1 second if there's an error. When using PWM only you will get kind of like an Open Loop control without any feedback about the actuators position. I guess CAN could be used for a greater sense of handling errors or feedback/closed loop control along with some parameters and details like that, but for me PWM OL control is just fine.
Also, from some other source, it appears the controller IC on the PCB is a variant of a L9805E from STmicroelectronics.
So I'll try again to interface that actuator I have but pretty sure it's just toast..
(10-23-2009, 03:51 PM)Tymbrymi(10-23-2009, 01:41 PM)winmutt Kind of. Arduino only makes 5volts for the PWM signal
You'll need to get an n-channel logic level MOSFET. Basically it'll act as a 12V switch activated by a 5V signal. I can post more later if you want, but I'm feeling lazy right now so I'll post more about it later.
Anyone with some details on this or the Open Collector output stage? I don't know too much about those electronics
Still not sure I did it right.. I used a function generator with a 10V, 140Hz PWM but nothing worked
When connecting 12V to Pin 4, wouldn't that make it receive a 100% DC signal? Or will I burn it up that way..Thanks for any input
Did some testing on the PCB/microcontroller, after taking me a while to find out all pins of the parts on the PCB are somehow coated, so you have to slightly scratch or pinpoint the coating by putting a bit more force on the pins with the multimeter probes .. which can be quite a PITA when probing around for signals. I only had a simple power supply and DMV/multimeter at hand, so no oscilloscope measurements or function generator I could use. Also it was hard to measure continuity to trace down signal paths on the PCB or between pins because of the coating and coupling elements or capacitors and the like in between. I was also wondering if somebody knew if there's more parts on the backside of the PCB or if this is multi-layered??
Anyways, the microcontroller seems to indeed be the mentioned L9805E or variant thereof, going by the pins.. see below for what I found:
(pin numbers, = measured signal state, : signal description from datasheet)
Haven't checked these yet..
AD2-AD4
PA0/OCMP2_1-PA1/OCMP1_1
PA2/ICAP2_1-PA3/ICAP1_1
PA4/EXTCLK_1
PA5/OCMP2_2-PA6/OCMP1_2
PA7/ICAP2_2-PB0/ICAP1_2
PB1/EXTCLK_2
VPP/TM (pin 8 = low, static): Input. This pin must be held low during normal operating modes.
VDD (9, 42 = 5V, static): Output. 5V Power supply for digital circuits, from internal voltage regulator.
OSCIN (10, not checked): Input Oscillator pin.
OSCOUT (11, not checked): Output Oscillator pin.
GND (12, 43 = GND, static): Ground for digital circuits.
VBR (37, 38, 39 = 12V, static): Power supply for Right half-bridge.
OUTR (28, 29, 30 = 12V, see below): Output of Left half-bridge. (should probably say RIGHT half-bridge)
PGND (26, 27, 58, 59 = GND, static): Ground for power transistor.
OUTL (23, 24, 25 = 12V, see below): Output of Right half-bridge. (should probably say LEFT half-bridge)
VBL (14, 15, 16 = 12V, static): Power supply for Left half-bridge.
VB1 (40 = about 11V, ?): Power supply for voltage regulators.
VB2 (41 = about 9V, ?): Pre-regulated voltage for analog circuits.
CAN_L (44, probably going to some opto-coupler, not checked): Low side CAN bus output.
CAN_H (45, probably going to some opto-coupler, not checked): High side CAN bus input.
NRESET (46, not checked): Bidirectional. This active low signal forces the initialization of the MCU. This event is the top priority non maskable interrupt. It can be used to reset external peripherals.
PWMI (47, see below): PWM input. Directly connected to Input Capture 2 on Timer 2.
PWMO (48, see below): PWM output. Connected to the output of PWM2 module.
AGND (63 = GND, static): Ground for all analog circuitry (except power bridge).
VCC (64 = 5V, static): Output. 5V power supply for analog circuits, from internal voltage regulator.
I had placed the actuator so that on the right side i had the outer connector with the 5 pins and the power supply filter capacitor (big blue one), that way the MCU is also the same layout as depicted in Fig. 2 (pinout) of the datasheet.
OUTL, OUTR: connected to the motor terminals, where the poles are rising up along the wall of the black actuator plastic housing, with both being at the same static voltage level; level is the same from the MCU pins to the motor pins. When looking at it from top, the left motor terminal goes to OUTR and the right one to OUTL.
PWMI, PWMO: (imho) strange things happening here. They are somehow connected to the signal to Pin 4 (PWM) of the external actuator connector. With Pin 4 open, both go to 12V, and every 3 seconds there is a short grounding pulse. I guess that is what the Hella guy was referring to when he said there is a grounding pulse on error condition. This same signal can also be measured on the external Pin 4 when open.
For testing i also applied 5V to Pin 4 and noticed that the voltage would be static 5V at PWMI and PWMO. When disconnecting the 5V, it would go to 12V again, with the 0.33Hz GND pulse; but the PWMI would drop to 0 first and then apply 12V, whereas the PWMO went to 12V instantly. So somehow it seems PWMO is set up for mirroring or copying this signal?
The (TS?)SOP16 packaged 16 pin IC next to the inductive rotary position sensor field coil is used for just that (position sensing), but seems it's also some proprietary IC. Maybe PWMI/O is related to that one to determine rotor position? Haven't checked if there are common pins or something..
Something more to note.. Since I had the top of the actuator (motor, gearing, CIPOS rotor indicating the position) taken off, maybe there was an error condition present since the position of the actuator could not be determined.
Well long story short.. So far I haven't had any luck with getting my actuator to rotate except when i apply voltage straight to the motor terminals. Any input on the signalling parameters for the PWM on Pin 4 i have to feed in for commanding the position? I might look into rigging up that open collector stuff although i'm not sure how this would help.
In quest for some light on this i did some further investigations yesterday night, with the following results:
Did some testing on the PCB/microcontroller, after taking me a while to find out all pins of the parts on the PCB are somehow coated, so you have to slightly scratch or pinpoint the coating by putting a bit more force on the pins with the multimeter probes .. which can be quite a PITA when probing around for signals. I only had a simple power supply and DMV/multimeter at hand, so no oscilloscope measurements or function generator I could use. Also it was hard to measure continuity to trace down signal paths on the PCB or between pins because of the coating and coupling elements or capacitors and the like in between. I was also wondering if somebody knew if there's more parts on the backside of the PCB or if this is multi-layered??
Anyways, the microcontroller seems to indeed be the mentioned L9805E or variant thereof, going by the pins.. see below for what I found:
(pin numbers, = measured signal state, : signal description from datasheet)
Haven't checked these yet..
AD2-AD4
PA0/OCMP2_1-PA1/OCMP1_1
PA2/ICAP2_1-PA3/ICAP1_1
PA4/EXTCLK_1
PA5/OCMP2_2-PA6/OCMP1_2
PA7/ICAP2_2-PB0/ICAP1_2
PB1/EXTCLK_2
VPP/TM (pin 8 = low, static): Input. This pin must be held low during normal operating modes.
VDD (9, 42 = 5V, static): Output. 5V Power supply for digital circuits, from internal voltage regulator.
OSCIN (10, not checked): Input Oscillator pin.
OSCOUT (11, not checked): Output Oscillator pin.
GND (12, 43 = GND, static): Ground for digital circuits.
VBR (37, 38, 39 = 12V, static): Power supply for Right half-bridge.
OUTR (28, 29, 30 = 12V, see below): Output of Left half-bridge. (should probably say RIGHT half-bridge)
PGND (26, 27, 58, 59 = GND, static): Ground for power transistor.
OUTL (23, 24, 25 = 12V, see below): Output of Right half-bridge. (should probably say LEFT half-bridge)
VBL (14, 15, 16 = 12V, static): Power supply for Left half-bridge.
VB1 (40 = about 11V, ?): Power supply for voltage regulators.
VB2 (41 = about 9V, ?): Pre-regulated voltage for analog circuits.
CAN_L (44, probably going to some opto-coupler, not checked): Low side CAN bus output.
CAN_H (45, probably going to some opto-coupler, not checked): High side CAN bus input.
NRESET (46, not checked): Bidirectional. This active low signal forces the initialization of the MCU. This event is the top priority non maskable interrupt. It can be used to reset external peripherals.
PWMI (47, see below): PWM input. Directly connected to Input Capture 2 on Timer 2.
PWMO (48, see below): PWM output. Connected to the output of PWM2 module.
AGND (63 = GND, static): Ground for all analog circuitry (except power bridge).
VCC (64 = 5V, static): Output. 5V power supply for analog circuits, from internal voltage regulator.
I had placed the actuator so that on the right side i had the outer connector with the 5 pins and the power supply filter capacitor (big blue one), that way the MCU is also the same layout as depicted in Fig. 2 (pinout) of the datasheet.
OUTL, OUTR: connected to the motor terminals, where the poles are rising up along the wall of the black actuator plastic housing, with both being at the same static voltage level; level is the same from the MCU pins to the motor pins. When looking at it from top, the left motor terminal goes to OUTR and the right one to OUTL.
PWMI, PWMO: (imho) strange things happening here. They are somehow connected to the signal to Pin 4 (PWM) of the external actuator connector. With Pin 4 open, both go to 12V, and every 3 seconds there is a short grounding pulse. I guess that is what the Hella guy was referring to when he said there is a grounding pulse on error condition. This same signal can also be measured on the external Pin 4 when open.
For testing i also applied 5V to Pin 4 and noticed that the voltage would be static 5V at PWMI and PWMO. When disconnecting the 5V, it would go to 12V again, with the 0.33Hz GND pulse; but the PWMI would drop to 0 first and then apply 12V, whereas the PWMO went to 12V instantly. So somehow it seems PWMO is set up for mirroring or copying this signal?
The (TS?)SOP16 packaged 16 pin IC next to the inductive rotary position sensor field coil is used for just that (position sensing), but seems it's also some proprietary IC. Maybe PWMI/O is related to that one to determine rotor position? Haven't checked if there are common pins or something..
Something more to note.. Since I had the top of the actuator (motor, gearing, CIPOS rotor indicating the position) taken off, maybe there was an error condition present since the position of the actuator could not be determined.
Well long story short.. So far I haven't had any luck with getting my actuator to rotate except when i apply voltage straight to the motor terminals. Any input on the signalling parameters for the PWM on Pin 4 i have to feed in for commanding the position? I might look into rigging up that open collector stuff although i'm not sure how this would help.
(07-18-2012, 05:25 AM)janus Well long story short.. So far I haven't had any luck with getting my actuator to rotate except when i apply voltage straight to the motor terminals. Any input on the signalling parameters for the PWM on Pin 4 i have to feed in for commanding the position? I might look into rigging up that open collector stuff although i'm not sure how this would help.
You mean like PWM frequency, upper and lower limit duty cycles? See if this guy's info works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0qEYEmnLvY
Thanks for sharing, btw!
raysorenson
07-18-2012, 10:56 AM #144(07-18-2012, 05:25 AM)janus Well long story short.. So far I haven't had any luck with getting my actuator to rotate except when i apply voltage straight to the motor terminals. Any input on the signalling parameters for the PWM on Pin 4 i have to feed in for commanding the position? I might look into rigging up that open collector stuff although i'm not sure how this would help.
You mean like PWM frequency, upper and lower limit duty cycles? See if this guy's info works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0qEYEmnLvY
Thanks for sharing, btw!
(07-17-2012, 07:03 AM)janus Anyone with some details on this or the Open Collector output stage? I don't know too much about those electronics
Still not sure I did it right.. I used a function generator with a 10V, 140Hz PWM but nothing worked
Hi janus,
There is some details about open collector circuit.
Best regards,
Darqs
(07-17-2012, 07:03 AM)janus Anyone with some details on this or the Open Collector output stage? I don't know too much about those electronics
Still not sure I did it right.. I used a function generator with a 10V, 140Hz PWM but nothing worked
Hi janus,
There is some details about open collector circuit.
Best regards,
Darqs
now i can go on and order/build some kind of hardware to do the control job.hey Darqs, if you're still on here (also to anybody else who could share some insight on this) i have a question on the open collector schematic there.
the transistor here is actually switching pin 4 to pin 2, which is ground (low), no? i would imagine it should be switched to high?
one year later and i bought another actuator. this time it worked first time i tried the signal generator - hell yeah! now i can go on and order/build some kind of hardware to do the control job.
hey Darqs, if you're still on here (also to anybody else who could share some insight on this) i have a question on the open collector schematic there.
the transistor here is actually switching pin 4 to pin 2, which is ground (low), no? i would imagine it should be switched to high?
there are various types, some are 140hz (mercedes) some are 300hz (bmw) and some are can bus(ford / vw).
There is an internal eeprom that contains about 128bytes that allow various configurations for limit stops interface type etc, this can be written by can but I dont know how.
Phil
Hi,
there are various types, some are 140hz (mercedes) some are 300hz (bmw) and some are can bus(ford / vw).
There is an internal eeprom that contains about 128bytes that allow various configurations for limit stops interface type etc, this can be written by can but I dont know how.
Phil
(11-04-2013, 06:22 PM)pemtek Hi,hey thanks for posting up. i didnt know the bmw ones are 300hz! same pinning etc tho, right?
there are various types, some are 140hz (mercedes) some are 300hz (bmw) and some are can bus(ford / vw).
There is an internal eeprom that contains about 128bytes that allow various configurations for limit stops interface type etc, this can be written by can but I dont know how.
Phil
and, could someone maybe confirm how those things need to be triggered correctly circuit-wise?
well as long as we can't flash the eeprom i'm gonna refer to it as a rom then
(11-04-2013, 06:22 PM)pemtek Hi,hey thanks for posting up. i didnt know the bmw ones are 300hz! same pinning etc tho, right?
there are various types, some are 140hz (mercedes) some are 300hz (bmw) and some are can bus(ford / vw).
There is an internal eeprom that contains about 128bytes that allow various configurations for limit stops interface type etc, this can be written by can but I dont know how.
Phil
and, could someone maybe confirm how those things need to be triggered correctly circuit-wise?
well as long as we can't flash the eeprom i'm gonna refer to it as a rom then
The circuit from Darqs a few posts ago will work perfectly on the PWM versions and yes both 140hz and 300hz versions have the same pinout. I have seen an arduino project for moving one of these somewhere.
The eeprom is programmable with the right piece of equipment but only turbo manufacturers and some rebuilders have the equipment.
Hi Janus,
The circuit from Darqs a few posts ago will work perfectly on the PWM versions and yes both 140hz and 300hz versions have the same pinout. I have seen an arduino project for moving one of these somewhere.
The eeprom is programmable with the right piece of equipment but only turbo manufacturers and some rebuilders have the equipment.
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