towing a trailer?
towing a trailer?
where can i find the info on towing rates for a85 300sd? any one here tow a trailer with there benz? i am thinking a my camper trailer that is 4000 lb empty can you get a class three hitch? done a little searching but nothing usefull comes up. i think a 617 would be strong enough and with a equillizer hitch would make the ride nice. What's every one think?
There are ways around this which involve strengthening the chassis. I was able to circumnavigate the problem by removing the bumper on my 240 and building a custom plate that I then welded a class three receiver I grabbed out of a junk yard onto the plate, then reinstalling the bumper. Pushed the bumper out about 1/4 inch, and put a nice receiver right below. I then welded in some braces that went forward from the plate to the quasi-frame on either side of the spare tire well.
With this setup I was able to rent a standard uhaul tow dolly and tow another car 1400 miles with my 60hp 240.
A friend of mine did a similar thing on his SD, welding in reinforcement inside the trunk for his custom mounted class two receiver hitch. This was to tow his motorcycle on weekend excursions.
Standard, all you will be able to find probably is class one hitches that bolt to the spare tire well and rear bumper. In this instance, make sure the bumper has not done that interesting trick where the brackets that hold it to the bumper shocks have disappeared.
If you have access to a wagon, thats a whole different story and you should be able to find a variety of hitches for it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Your issue will be strength of the chassis, not so much what the engine can tow. I assure you, you can tow anything you want as long as it does not rip the rear of the car off! Im not sure if the SD has a different frame setup in the rear, but on the 123 chassis with a rear unibody and front sub frame, the towing weight limit was 1500 lbs with a 150 lb tounge weight on the same engine.
There are ways around this which involve strengthening the chassis. I was able to circumnavigate the problem by removing the bumper on my 240 and building a custom plate that I then welded a class three receiver I grabbed out of a junk yard onto the plate, then reinstalling the bumper. Pushed the bumper out about 1/4 inch, and put a nice receiver right below. I then welded in some braces that went forward from the plate to the quasi-frame on either side of the spare tire well.
With this setup I was able to rent a standard uhaul tow dolly and tow another car 1400 miles with my 60hp 240.
A friend of mine did a similar thing on his SD, welding in reinforcement inside the trunk for his custom mounted class two receiver hitch. This was to tow his motorcycle on weekend excursions.
Standard, all you will be able to find probably is class one hitches that bolt to the spare tire well and rear bumper. In this instance, make sure the bumper has not done that interesting trick where the brackets that hold it to the bumper shocks have disappeared.
If you have access to a wagon, thats a whole different story and you should be able to find a variety of hitches for it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
1976 W115 medium red/tan 240D (undergoing M117 heart transplant)
1989 BMW E30 327iC SETA 5MT
1987 white/black 190D Turbo Diesel - Recaro 16V seats, Monoblocks, 11PSI.
2009 white/black C63 ///AMG
1987 BMW E30 325E M50B25NV 24V swap 5MT. 5 lug.
1999 white/grey ML430
1991 BMW E30 318i 5MT (Beater)
1990 BMW E34 525i 5MT
1997 red/black/black SL600
I would think the EGTs would get out of hand before a 722.3 would give way... its not intercooled, and I believe all SDs were turbocharged right?
1976 W115 medium red/tan 240D (undergoing M117 heart transplant)
1989 BMW E30 327iC SETA 5MT
1987 white/black 190D Turbo Diesel - Recaro 16V seats, Monoblocks, 11PSI.
2009 white/black C63 ///AMG
1987 BMW E30 325E M50B25NV 24V swap 5MT. 5 lug.
1999 white/grey ML430
1991 BMW E30 318i 5MT (Beater)
1990 BMW E34 525i 5MT
1997 red/black/black SL600
(06-11-2009, 12:46 AM)2.5-10 I would think the EGTs would get out of hand before a 722.3 would give way... its not intercooled, and I believe all SDs were turbocharged right?
Either way its probably not a good idea. There is enough torque for everything but the biggest hills. He's over the braked limit, he is going to need suspension work minimally. SLS and 17mm rear sway.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-11-2009, 12:46 AM)2.5-10 I would think the EGTs would get out of hand before a 722.3 would give way... its not intercooled, and I believe all SDs were turbocharged right?
Either way its probably not a good idea. There is enough torque for everything but the biggest hills. He's over the braked limit, he is going to need suspension work minimally. SLS and 17mm rear sway.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-08-2009, 02:00 AM)giezy where can i find the info on towing rates for a85 300sd? any one here tow a trailer with there benz? i am thinking a my camper trailer that is 4000 lb empty can you get a class three hitch? done a little searching but nothing usefull comes up. i think a 617 would be strong enough and with a equillizer hitch would make the ride nice. What's every one think?
4000 is too much.
Trailers tow well behind these cars, but over 3000 gets hard on the car, hills will be tough.
I am trying to figure out a way i can mount a hitch to the bumper on my TD. Looks like I'll have to reinforce the bumper and maybe weld up the mounts.
GileadGarage
06-11-2009, 11:40 PM #6(06-08-2009, 02:00 AM)giezy where can i find the info on towing rates for a85 300sd? any one here tow a trailer with there benz? i am thinking a my camper trailer that is 4000 lb empty can you get a class three hitch? done a little searching but nothing usefull comes up. i think a 617 would be strong enough and with a equillizer hitch would make the ride nice. What's every one think?
4000 is too much.
Trailers tow well behind these cars, but over 3000 gets hard on the car, hills will be tough.
I am trying to figure out a way i can mount a hitch to the bumper on my TD. Looks like I'll have to reinforce the bumper and maybe weld up the mounts.
I got a class 1 hitch for my 300 off there, but I think you can get a class two hitch for a wagon if I am not mistaken. They might have the options listed.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
check out etrailer.com
I got a class 1 hitch for my 300 off there, but I think you can get a class two hitch for a wagon if I am not mistaken. They might have the options listed.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Thanks!
Professor-GT
07-18-2009, 10:02 PM #8I'm looking to put a hitch on my 85 300D Sedan so that I can carry enough WVO to take a long trip without having to buy fuel. I saw a post elsewhere and a guy said that the wagon hitch offered by Da'Lan/Curt 257214 & 11805 respectively, will bolt up to the sedan, but tailpipe mods will be needed. I have not confirmed this, but he seemed pretty matter of fact about it. I have to take a look at it, but if someone can confirm this, that would be great as this looks like a pretty beefy hitch. The only thing I don't like is that the reciever is 1 1/4" instead of 2", so in the end I may decide to weld up my own anyway. Not that I'd be towing over 1K lbs, but I'm just more comfortable with the 2" reciever. Gotta have the reciever regardless instead of a draw bar, so I can remove the ball mount when not towing to save the chins.
Thanks!
In the meantime, I need to replace the springs as they are tired and worn-out. The car has that lowrider look and bottoms out over the smallest bumps. PO had already added coil-spring spreaders to it (little nuts that you put in and tighten up to raise the spring while eliminating part of it from working).
As long as I am replacing springs, should I be looking at stock replacement or are there stiffer/better alternatives?
Floridacyclist
07-21-2009, 09:09 AM #9I know that once I get my rear springs replaced on my 1981 300td, I plan to get a hitch. Whether for towing my 1600lb sailboat (MacGregor 17), a Scamp camper, or carrying a bike/cargo rack, it is just too useful not to.
In the meantime, I need to replace the springs as they are tired and worn-out. The car has that lowrider look and bottoms out over the smallest bumps. PO had already added coil-spring spreaders to it (little nuts that you put in and tighten up to raise the spring while eliminating part of it from working).
As long as I am replacing springs, should I be looking at stock replacement or are there stiffer/better alternatives?
(07-21-2009, 09:09 AM)Floridacyclist I know that once I get my rear springs replaced on my 1981 300td, I plan to get a hitch. Whether for towing my 1600lb sailboat (MacGregor 17), a Scamp camper, or carrying a bike/cargo rack, it is just too useful not to.
In the meantime, I need to replace the springs as they are tired and worn-out. The car has that lowrider look and bottoms out over the smallest bumps. PO had already added coil-spring spreaders to it (little nuts that you put in and tighten up to raise the spring while eliminating part of it from working).
As long as I am replacing springs, should I be looking at stock replacement or are there stiffer/better alternatives?
Your 300TD has a hydraulic self-leveling suspension system that is not working. There are 4 main reasons why it may not work:
1) The Hydraulic Pump is bad (not likely unless its been run dry)
2) The valve needs to be rebuilt
3) The accumulator spheres need to be replaced (most likely)
4) The struts are bad (expensive)
In order to diagnose this problem we need more information. How is the ride (bouncy?)? Does the car sag in the back? Is there any fluid in the SLS reservoir? Are there any fluid leaks near the rear struts or the leveling valve? When you take the cover off the reservoir is it clear that the pump is pumping fluid?
Read the SLS removal thread in this section. I am working on a way to remove the SLS from a 300TD, but the springs have not arrived yet. I will report back on whether or not they work well. Unless the springs in your wagon are broken, you certainly don't need new ones. They really don't go bad enough to need replacement, but the SLS does have parts that wear out.
From your description, it sounds like the SLS was quite poorly maintained if the previous owner put rubber spacers between the spring coils, so you may be in for one hell of an expensive goose chase... in which case lets hope the springs I've ordered do their job.
EDIT: just to be clear, the back of the wagon SHOULD SAG, even with brand new springs, if the SLS system isn't functional. You can prove this to yourself mathematically using Hooke's Law, Newton's 3rd Law, and the spring rates provided in section 32-250 of the W123 Factory Shop Manual. Section 32-010 is also helpful for reference to know which springs are in which car.
GREASY_BEAST
07-21-2009, 09:32 AM #10(07-21-2009, 09:09 AM)Floridacyclist I know that once I get my rear springs replaced on my 1981 300td, I plan to get a hitch. Whether for towing my 1600lb sailboat (MacGregor 17), a Scamp camper, or carrying a bike/cargo rack, it is just too useful not to.
In the meantime, I need to replace the springs as they are tired and worn-out. The car has that lowrider look and bottoms out over the smallest bumps. PO had already added coil-spring spreaders to it (little nuts that you put in and tighten up to raise the spring while eliminating part of it from working).
As long as I am replacing springs, should I be looking at stock replacement or are there stiffer/better alternatives?
Your 300TD has a hydraulic self-leveling suspension system that is not working. There are 4 main reasons why it may not work:
1) The Hydraulic Pump is bad (not likely unless its been run dry)
2) The valve needs to be rebuilt
3) The accumulator spheres need to be replaced (most likely)
4) The struts are bad (expensive)
In order to diagnose this problem we need more information. How is the ride (bouncy?)? Does the car sag in the back? Is there any fluid in the SLS reservoir? Are there any fluid leaks near the rear struts or the leveling valve? When you take the cover off the reservoir is it clear that the pump is pumping fluid?
Read the SLS removal thread in this section. I am working on a way to remove the SLS from a 300TD, but the springs have not arrived yet. I will report back on whether or not they work well. Unless the springs in your wagon are broken, you certainly don't need new ones. They really don't go bad enough to need replacement, but the SLS does have parts that wear out.
From your description, it sounds like the SLS was quite poorly maintained if the previous owner put rubber spacers between the spring coils, so you may be in for one hell of an expensive goose chase... in which case lets hope the springs I've ordered do their job.
EDIT: just to be clear, the back of the wagon SHOULD SAG, even with brand new springs, if the SLS system isn't functional. You can prove this to yourself mathematically using Hooke's Law, Newton's 3rd Law, and the spring rates provided in section 32-250 of the W123 Factory Shop Manual. Section 32-010 is also helpful for reference to know which springs are in which car.
The ride is very bouncy. Between that and the spring-loaded seats, it makes my wife queasy...luckily, this is just my project vehicle / kid hauler and she still has her Cougar as her primary car.
Incidentally, they didn't use rubber spreaders between the coils, but steel inserts.
Did all 1981 300TDs come with SLS or was this an option? I was just reading that many have replaced the rams with standard shocks and springs and have regretted it later.
Floridacyclist
07-21-2009, 09:53 AM #11I haven't seen any sort of fancy struts or anything. We (actually the guy I was buying it from) put new shock absorbers on when we bought the car a week or so ago and the parts that NAPA gave us from the catalog actually fit. I haven't been under there in detail yet, but it looks like I might want to take a peek this coming weekend. I would have to find the SLS reservoir as this is all new to me.
The ride is very bouncy. Between that and the spring-loaded seats, it makes my wife queasy...luckily, this is just my project vehicle / kid hauler and she still has her Cougar as her primary car.
Incidentally, they didn't use rubber spreaders between the coils, but steel inserts.
Did all 1981 300TDs come with SLS or was this an option? I was just reading that many have replaced the rams with standard shocks and springs and have regretted it later.
(07-21-2009, 09:53 AM)Floridacyclist I haven't seen any sort of fancy struts or anything. We (actually the guy I was buying it from) put new shock absorbers on when we bought the car a week or so ago and the parts that NAPA gave us from the catalog actually fit. I haven't been under there in detail yet, but it looks like I might want to take a peek this coming weekend. I would have to find the SLS reservoir as this is all new to me.
The ride is very bouncy. Between that and the spring-loaded seats, it makes my wife queasy...luckily, this is just my project vehicle / kid hauler and she still has her Cougar as her primary car.
Incidentally, they didn't use rubber spreaders between the coils, but steel inserts.
Did all 1981 300TDs come with SLS or was this an option? I was just reading that many have replaced the rams with standard shocks and springs and have regretted it later.
W123 300TDs always had SLS standard. It was not an option. Do you remember the cost of the NAPA parts? They should have been about $300-$500 EACH for SLS struts, but it sounds like you might have some sort of cobbled arrangement with stock wagon springs and 300D sedan shocks.
If you have the correct 300TD struts, and your hydraulic system is working properly (valve, pump, etc) then your accumulators are probably bad. This is not a terribly expensive fix. First determine the condition of your SLS system, chiefly, does it pump fluid, and are all its parts there.
GREASY_BEAST
07-21-2009, 12:20 PM #12(07-21-2009, 09:53 AM)Floridacyclist I haven't seen any sort of fancy struts or anything. We (actually the guy I was buying it from) put new shock absorbers on when we bought the car a week or so ago and the parts that NAPA gave us from the catalog actually fit. I haven't been under there in detail yet, but it looks like I might want to take a peek this coming weekend. I would have to find the SLS reservoir as this is all new to me.
The ride is very bouncy. Between that and the spring-loaded seats, it makes my wife queasy...luckily, this is just my project vehicle / kid hauler and she still has her Cougar as her primary car.
Incidentally, they didn't use rubber spreaders between the coils, but steel inserts.
Did all 1981 300TDs come with SLS or was this an option? I was just reading that many have replaced the rams with standard shocks and springs and have regretted it later.
W123 300TDs always had SLS standard. It was not an option. Do you remember the cost of the NAPA parts? They should have been about $300-$500 EACH for SLS struts, but it sounds like you might have some sort of cobbled arrangement with stock wagon springs and 300D sedan shocks.
If you have the correct 300TD struts, and your hydraulic system is working properly (valve, pump, etc) then your accumulators are probably bad. This is not a terribly expensive fix. First determine the condition of your SLS system, chiefly, does it pump fluid, and are all its parts there.
(07-18-2009, 10:02 PM)Professor-GT I'm looking to put a hitch on my 85 300D Sedan so that I can carry enough WVO to take a long trip without having to buy fuel. I saw a post elsewhere and a guy said that the wagon hitch offered by Da'Lan/Curt 257214 & 11805 respectively, will bolt up to the sedan, but tailpipe mods will be needed. I have not confirmed this, but he seemed pretty matter of fact about it. I have to take a look at it, but if someone can confirm this, that would be great as this looks like a pretty beefy hitch. The only thing I don't like is that the reciever is 1 1/4" instead of 2", so in the end I may decide to weld up my own anyway. Not that I'd be towing over 1K lbs, but I'm just more comfortable with the 2" reciever. Gotta have the reciever regardless instead of a draw bar, so I can remove the ball mount when not towing to save the chins.
Thanks!
Here you go, dropnosky original 50 gal aux vegetable oil trailer made out of former boat tank, motorcycle trailer, and aluminum. Twin parts and tool bins, fully lockable stainless hardware. Vehicle supplementary spare tire mount on front, trailer spare tire mount on side, 20lb tongue weight. 700 LB payload. (pics are before completion, final product is black has more exterior features including twin 8 inch fill ports, Ill post a pic later on).
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-18-2009, 10:02 PM)Professor-GT I'm looking to put a hitch on my 85 300D Sedan so that I can carry enough WVO to take a long trip without having to buy fuel. I saw a post elsewhere and a guy said that the wagon hitch offered by Da'Lan/Curt 257214 & 11805 respectively, will bolt up to the sedan, but tailpipe mods will be needed. I have not confirmed this, but he seemed pretty matter of fact about it. I have to take a look at it, but if someone can confirm this, that would be great as this looks like a pretty beefy hitch. The only thing I don't like is that the reciever is 1 1/4" instead of 2", so in the end I may decide to weld up my own anyway. Not that I'd be towing over 1K lbs, but I'm just more comfortable with the 2" reciever. Gotta have the reciever regardless instead of a draw bar, so I can remove the ball mount when not towing to save the chins.
Thanks!
Here you go, dropnosky original 50 gal aux vegetable oil trailer made out of former boat tank, motorcycle trailer, and aluminum. Twin parts and tool bins, fully lockable stainless hardware. Vehicle supplementary spare tire mount on front, trailer spare tire mount on side, 20lb tongue weight. 700 LB payload. (pics are before completion, final product is black has more exterior features including twin 8 inch fill ports, Ill post a pic later on).
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-21-2009, 12:20 PM)GREASY_BEAST W123 300TDs always had SLS standard. It was not an option. Do you remember the cost of the NAPA parts? They should have been about $300-$500 EACH for SLS struts, but it sounds like you might have some sort of cobbled arrangement with stock wagon springs and 300D sedan shocks.
They were $85.00 for the set of Bilstein shocks, so it looks like they sold me the wrong set. I called the guy at the parts store earlier today and he said they only carry those for that model of car, and said they were listed for both wagons and sedans. It looks like I will have to keep an eye out for a parts car...anyone have a TD that got smacked in the front end?
Quote:If you have the correct 300TD struts, and your hydraulic system is working properly (valve, pump, etc) then your accumulators are probably bad. This is not a terribly expensive fix. First determine the condition of your SLS system, chiefly, does it pump fluid, and are all its parts there.No struts...will have to wait till this weekend to figure out what else is there or not.
Might end up being cheaper to keep an eye out for a TD with a blown engine to drop mine into.
Floridacyclist
07-22-2009, 03:56 PM #14(07-21-2009, 12:20 PM)GREASY_BEAST W123 300TDs always had SLS standard. It was not an option. Do you remember the cost of the NAPA parts? They should have been about $300-$500 EACH for SLS struts, but it sounds like you might have some sort of cobbled arrangement with stock wagon springs and 300D sedan shocks.
They were $85.00 for the set of Bilstein shocks, so it looks like they sold me the wrong set. I called the guy at the parts store earlier today and he said they only carry those for that model of car, and said they were listed for both wagons and sedans. It looks like I will have to keep an eye out for a parts car...anyone have a TD that got smacked in the front end?
Quote:If you have the correct 300TD struts, and your hydraulic system is working properly (valve, pump, etc) then your accumulators are probably bad. This is not a terribly expensive fix. First determine the condition of your SLS system, chiefly, does it pump fluid, and are all its parts there.No struts...will have to wait till this weekend to figure out what else is there or not.
Might end up being cheaper to keep an eye out for a TD with a blown engine to drop mine into.
GREASY_BEAST
07-22-2009, 10:56 PM #15Yep, you got the wrong parts. Please do check the condition of the rest of the SLS system! The pump should not be run dry. The pump is located on the left side of the cylinder head just above the vacuum pump. The reservoir is located just behind the passenger side headlight. If the SLS system has been removed and a blocking plate put over the hole then your other option would be to get springs that have an adequate spring rate to hold the weight of the car. I am working on doing that now and I will post results. If you want to build an SLS system I have a lot of parts to get rid of, but that may not be the best route for you.
Floridacyclist
07-23-2009, 06:35 AM #16I've never seen exactly what the problem would be with using W123 sedan springs or lengthened (think re-arched if they were leaves) and perhaps air shocks for height adjustment. What issues would I face? Would this cause problems with trailering?
(07-23-2009, 06:35 AM)Floridacyclist I've never seen exactly what the problem would be with using W123 sedan springs or lengthened (think re-arched if they were leaves) and perhaps air shocks for height adjustment. What issues would I face? Would this cause problems with trailering?
The wagon has about 400-500lbs extra weight on the back as compared to the sedan. Therefore, you need springs that have a larger spring coefficient, or spring rate. Basically, you need heavier springs. Mercedes-Benz made a whole slew of different springs for the W123 chassis including some heavy duty ones for countries with poor roads and vehicles intended for larger payloads (W123 ambulances, among others), but unfortunately even those are not big enough to maintain a stock ride height with Sedan+500lbs. That indicates that their spring rates are also too low. Now comes the tricky stuff. Based on measurements I took from the shop manual and various cars, along with information graciously provided by Lesjofors engineers, I was able to find a part number for a spring that SHOULD work. It is an S600 aftermarket lowering spring made by Lesjofors. Check the SLS removal thread to read about that. It should be here early next week to test, had to order from the UK.
As far as air shocks and sedan springs... basically, the ride will be crap. It is the same as loading 400lbs in the trunk of a sedan and driving. Towing a trailer with 400lbs in the trunk of a sedan would not be fun. Also, the air shocks take part of the load. This is not a good thing, because they have much different characteristics than the springs. This makes the ride rough and weird. Basically, the options that work are either make a standard shock and spring setup, with adequately sized springs, or stick with the SLS.
GREASY_BEAST
07-23-2009, 07:10 AM #17(07-23-2009, 06:35 AM)Floridacyclist I've never seen exactly what the problem would be with using W123 sedan springs or lengthened (think re-arched if they were leaves) and perhaps air shocks for height adjustment. What issues would I face? Would this cause problems with trailering?
The wagon has about 400-500lbs extra weight on the back as compared to the sedan. Therefore, you need springs that have a larger spring coefficient, or spring rate. Basically, you need heavier springs. Mercedes-Benz made a whole slew of different springs for the W123 chassis including some heavy duty ones for countries with poor roads and vehicles intended for larger payloads (W123 ambulances, among others), but unfortunately even those are not big enough to maintain a stock ride height with Sedan+500lbs. That indicates that their spring rates are also too low. Now comes the tricky stuff. Based on measurements I took from the shop manual and various cars, along with information graciously provided by Lesjofors engineers, I was able to find a part number for a spring that SHOULD work. It is an S600 aftermarket lowering spring made by Lesjofors. Check the SLS removal thread to read about that. It should be here early next week to test, had to order from the UK.
As far as air shocks and sedan springs... basically, the ride will be crap. It is the same as loading 400lbs in the trunk of a sedan and driving. Towing a trailer with 400lbs in the trunk of a sedan would not be fun. Also, the air shocks take part of the load. This is not a good thing, because they have much different characteristics than the springs. This makes the ride rough and weird. Basically, the options that work are either make a standard shock and spring setup, with adequately sized springs, or stick with the SLS.
It seems that the air shocks would have many of the same characteristics as the stock SLS shocks....they use compressed air to make up the difference between the lower spring rate and what is needed to raise the rear of the car to a standard ride height. I would think that if loading the car up caused the rear end to sag, a few minutes on teh end of an air hose would fix that. Has anyone actually reported on these or is this based on standard use of air shocks on sagging springs (ie non-SLS)?
I wonder about an ambulance spring with shims (not the between-the-coil spacers like the car has on there now) or even another spring pad welded on top of the old one? I have a welder (and my MOS was metalworker in the Army) and I'm not afraid to use it
At any rate, I am looking for a relatively temporary fix as we are saving money for a trip to Europe with the kids next Summer (last chance before they scatter) and this is just an $800 beater car to give us something cheap with 4 doors and a back seat that I have the option of running used veggie/motor oil in. With some of the body/suspension issues and lack of working AC, we are just going to make this work until after the trip and then either replace it, or find a nice 300TD with a blown engine/tranny (and everything else good) and use this car for parts since it seems to have a jam-up motor and drivetrain. The objective right now is to spend as little money total as possible between now and next Summer while still having safe and reliable transportation for myself, my wife, 2 tall teenagers and our sailboat; luxurious ride quality is a secondary objective.
I would be very curious to find out how your spring conversion works. how much did that cost?
Floridacyclist
07-23-2009, 08:35 AM #18I saw a remark about this subject on another forum where a guy had successfully converted his SLS..I emailed him for details and will share them when/if I get them as he says that he is very satisifed. He compared it to a knee/hip replacement....not as good as the original, but better than completely non-functional.
It seems that the air shocks would have many of the same characteristics as the stock SLS shocks....they use compressed air to make up the difference between the lower spring rate and what is needed to raise the rear of the car to a standard ride height. I would think that if loading the car up caused the rear end to sag, a few minutes on teh end of an air hose would fix that. Has anyone actually reported on these or is this based on standard use of air shocks on sagging springs (ie non-SLS)?
I wonder about an ambulance spring with shims (not the between-the-coil spacers like the car has on there now) or even another spring pad welded on top of the old one? I have a welder (and my MOS was metalworker in the Army) and I'm not afraid to use it
At any rate, I am looking for a relatively temporary fix as we are saving money for a trip to Europe with the kids next Summer (last chance before they scatter) and this is just an $800 beater car to give us something cheap with 4 doors and a back seat that I have the option of running used veggie/motor oil in. With some of the body/suspension issues and lack of working AC, we are just going to make this work until after the trip and then either replace it, or find a nice 300TD with a blown engine/tranny (and everything else good) and use this car for parts since it seems to have a jam-up motor and drivetrain. The objective right now is to spend as little money total as possible between now and next Summer while still having safe and reliable transportation for myself, my wife, 2 tall teenagers and our sailboat; luxurious ride quality is a secondary objective.
I would be very curious to find out how your spring conversion works. how much did that cost?
GREASY_BEAST
07-23-2009, 09:45 AM #19The springs cost $115ea. shipped from GSF Car Parts in the UK. The problem with air shocks is getting the damping right. Basically, you have to get enough lifting power, combined with an accumulator that is designed to retain the flex and damping of the SLS. The SLS consists of a strut and a nitrogen-filled accumulator that, combined with restrictive orifices, provides some "spring" in the system as well as the damping function of a standard shock absorber. If you don't replicate this, your car will not only ride like a go-cart but you run the risk of punching one of the air shocks through the body. If you can find all these parts for less than $115 per wheel, and you can design the system to work correctly, the air shocks would undoubtedly be a better alternative than regular shocks and springs. Otherwise you run the risk of spending a significant amount of time and money on something that could spell disaster. I'll certainly let you know how these springs work just as soon as I get them in the mail.
I'm not really sure how lowered springs can help increase your height.
Another thought would be to take heavy-duty springs to a shop and have them heated, stretched, and re-tempered, just like they would do with leaf springs that have lost their shape.
Right now, a very tempting option is a 300td on Craigslist for $800...guy says everything is perfect (including the suspension and AC) except for the thrown rod. That would be cheaper than fixing either the rear suspension or the AC on mine....and I wouldn't have to worry about the rear hatch (dented in with a plexiglass window). I would just have to find time over the next few weekends for an engine swap. Waiting for pics.
Floridacyclist
07-23-2009, 12:36 PM #20So how about a stiff spring (like the ambulance one) combined with several shims? Looking at them, it looks like more than one could be stacked (and welded if need be) to provide a higher ride height with either stock or heavy-duty springs and possibly air shocks for fine-tuning.
I'm not really sure how lowered springs can help increase your height.
Another thought would be to take heavy-duty springs to a shop and have them heated, stretched, and re-tempered, just like they would do with leaf springs that have lost their shape.
Right now, a very tempting option is a 300td on Craigslist for $800...guy says everything is perfect (including the suspension and AC) except for the thrown rod. That would be cheaper than fixing either the rear suspension or the AC on mine....and I wouldn't have to worry about the rear hatch (dented in with a plexiglass window). I would just have to find time over the next few weekends for an engine swap. Waiting for pics.
can tow a 13,000 lb boat about 20 feet
although I would not recommend doing this any farther then 25 feet
![[Image: IMG_1879.sized.jpg]](http://www.coastalboatsales.com/jfraley/gallery/albums/scubaboo/IMG_1879.sized.jpg)
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
07-23-2009, 05:34 PM #21well a 1974 300D non-turbo with over 600K miles
can tow a 13,000 lb boat about 20 feet
although I would not recommend doing this any farther then 25 feet
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
The other trailers that we pull regularly (12-boat canoe trailer and a scamp camper that I plan to buy) are both well under the weight of the MacGregor.
Floridacyclist
07-23-2009, 07:10 PM #22My sailboat, a MacGregor 17, is about 1,500 lbs on the trailer with all the boaty bits (vests, paddles, beer etc) loaded onboard. We hauled it down from VA behind a FWD Mercury Cougar, so I have no doubt that the TD would make a great tow vehicle for it.
The other trailers that we pull regularly (12-boat canoe trailer and a scamp camper that I plan to buy) are both well under the weight of the MacGregor.
(07-23-2009, 12:36 PM)Floridacyclist So how about a stiff spring (like the ambulance one) combined with several shims? Looking at them, it looks like more than one could be stacked (and welded if need be) to provide a higher ride height with either stock or heavy-duty springs and possibly air shocks for fine-tuning.
Have at it. It sounds like a nightmare... too many variables. In the end, its going to be a hacked system that will function like a hacked system.
Quote:I'm not really sure how lowered springs can help increase your height.
S600 lowering springs. From a W140. They happen to be the right height for a W123. Read the SLS Delete thread.
Quote:Another thought would be to take heavy-duty springs to a shop and have them heated, stretched, and re-tempered, just like they would do with leaf springs that have lost their shape.
The W123 HD springs won't be any cheaper than W140 lowering springs. Then throw in at least the value of the springs in labor, handing them to some ham-handed monkey with a blow torch and a bucket of oil to "re-temper" them.. again sounds like disaster because you have spent 4x the money for 0.5x the result.
GREASY_BEAST
07-23-2009, 08:06 PM #23(07-23-2009, 12:36 PM)Floridacyclist So how about a stiff spring (like the ambulance one) combined with several shims? Looking at them, it looks like more than one could be stacked (and welded if need be) to provide a higher ride height with either stock or heavy-duty springs and possibly air shocks for fine-tuning.
Have at it. It sounds like a nightmare... too many variables. In the end, its going to be a hacked system that will function like a hacked system.
Quote:I'm not really sure how lowered springs can help increase your height.
S600 lowering springs. From a W140. They happen to be the right height for a W123. Read the SLS Delete thread.
Quote:Another thought would be to take heavy-duty springs to a shop and have them heated, stretched, and re-tempered, just like they would do with leaf springs that have lost their shape.
The W123 HD springs won't be any cheaper than W140 lowering springs. Then throw in at least the value of the springs in labor, handing them to some ham-handed monkey with a blow torch and a bucket of oil to "re-temper" them.. again sounds like disaster because you have spent 4x the money for 0.5x the result.
(07-23-2009, 08:06 PM)GREASY_BEAST Have at it. It sounds like a nightmare... too many variables. In the end, its going to be a hacked system that will function like a hacked system.
Yep!!
In the end, it will be cheaper, easier, and quicker to just fix the stock system. It will take a LOT of your time to get a system that is even close to decent... If you just hunt eBay or whatever for some used struts (they don't look fancy or anything... they look like a normal shock with a hydraulic line going to it), you'll be MUCH better off and won't regret it. Also, it might be expensive up front, but it will stay sorted out for a long time once you get it working again. My $.02 anyway
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
(07-23-2009, 08:06 PM)GREASY_BEAST Have at it. It sounds like a nightmare... too many variables. In the end, its going to be a hacked system that will function like a hacked system.
Yep!!
In the end, it will be cheaper, easier, and quicker to just fix the stock system. It will take a LOT of your time to get a system that is even close to decent... If you just hunt eBay or whatever for some used struts (they don't look fancy or anything... they look like a normal shock with a hydraulic line going to it), you'll be MUCH better off and won't regret it. Also, it might be expensive up front, but it will stay sorted out for a long time once you get it working again. My $.02 anyway
John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 118k - Faaaaaast!!
'87 300TD - 317k - Cracked head... but an OM606 is on the way!
'79 300SD - 295k - Bad engine = project car!
GREASY_BEAST
07-24-2009, 07:31 PM #25This thread has gotten woefully off-topic. Could one of you mods lop off everything after and including post #9 and put it in a new one?
(07-23-2009, 05:34 PM)oel_brenner well a 1974 300D non-turbo with over 600K miles
can tow a 13,000 lb boat about 20 feet
although I would not recommend doing this any farther then 25 feet
![[Image: w123.tow.limit.2.jpg]](http://www.superturbodiesel.com/images/benz/l508d%20mercedes%20motoroam%20monarch/repositioning/w123.tow.limit.2.jpg)
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(07-23-2009, 05:34 PM)oel_brenner well a 1974 300D non-turbo with over 600K miles
can tow a 13,000 lb boat about 20 feet
although I would not recommend doing this any farther then 25 feet
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Floridacyclist
07-26-2009, 10:30 AM #27Wow...I thought I was the only one who ever used a comealong for anything other than winching.
also, for those interested, theres a coil spring company i can get ahold of in kansas, i got there number somewhere... they will make custom height/ rate coils for whatever your application if they cant already get them. my buddy called for springs for his Gremlin, hey had about 9-11 different options... for a gremlin... i can only imagine what they have for our cars
There's no replacement for displacement... except for the TURBO IN MY BASEMENT!
AMCtilldeath
12-02-2010, 12:00 AM #29sorry if i missed it while perusing this thread, but where can i get those heavy duty or "ambulance" rear springs for a w123? i have a sedan for the record. also, to anyone looking to tow, two BIGGEST things you can do to help you with a large trailer (besides brakes of course) put a gigantor external tranny cooler on it, and put a thermostatically controlled valve on it to ensure it get up to operating temperature... mount a temp sensor in the side of your tranny pan... you will be good to go. We got this crazed old man down the road from our farm, obsessed with volvos (has a few *HUNDRED*) his daily driver is this 1968 wagon, regularly tows 4000-5000lb trailers with it... i think his has the 1.8L gas engine in it... its just the coolest little car...
also, for those interested, theres a coil spring company i can get ahold of in kansas, i got there number somewhere... they will make custom height/ rate coils for whatever your application if they cant already get them. my buddy called for springs for his Gremlin, hey had about 9-11 different options... for a gremlin... i can only imagine what they have for our cars
There's no replacement for displacement... except for the TURBO IN MY BASEMENT!
(12-02-2010, 12:00 AM)AMCtilldeath but where can i get those heavy duty or "ambulance" rear springs for a w123?
Call the Classic Center, thats where/how I and a few other people got the 15mm "special application" rear sway bar.
http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/heritage/c...r/overview
ForcedInduction
12-03-2010, 07:42 AM
#30
(12-02-2010, 12:00 AM)AMCtilldeath but where can i get those heavy duty or "ambulance" rear springs for a w123?
Call the Classic Center, thats where/how I and a few other people got the 15mm "special application" rear sway bar.
http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/heritage/c...r/overview
A few quick questions:
1. Probably gonna get Bilstein HD shocks for the rear, should I get them for the front too? Or regular or sport or what are my options?
2. Why not air shocks? It seems like they would be awesome because you could just pump them up for hauling and let a little out for cruising?
(06-08-2009, 08:06 AM)JB3 Your issue will be strength of the chassis, not so much what the engine can tow. I assure you, you can tow anything you want as long as it does not rip the rear of the car off! Im not sure if the SD has a different frame setup in the rear, but on the 123 chassis with a rear unibody and front sub frame, the towing weight limit was 1500 lbs with a 150 lb tounge weight on the same engine.
There are ways around this which involve strengthening the chassis. I was able to circumnavigate the problem by removing the bumper on my 240 and building a custom plate that I then welded a class three receiver I grabbed out of a junk yard onto the plate, then reinstalling the bumper. Pushed the bumper out about 1/4 inch, and put a nice receiver right below. I then welded in some braces that went forward from the plate to the quasi-frame on either side of the spare tire well.
Planning on doing something similar to this, got any pics!? I want to make sure mine is properly extra over engineered
Would an extra heavy duty hitch on a w123 possibly increase the maximum tongue weight? It seems like that recommendation may have been intended for the funky bumper/trunk bottom bolt-on ones that are overly priced.
(07-21-2009, 08:10 PM)JB3 Here you go, dropnosky original 50 gal aux vegetable oil trailer made out of former boat tank, motorcycle trailer, and aluminum. Twin parts and tool bins, fully lockable stainless hardware. Vehicle supplementary spare tire mount on front, trailer spare tire mount on side, 20lb tongue weight. 700 LB payload. (pics are before completion, final product is black has more exterior features including twin 8 inch fill ports, Ill post a pic later on).
Any plans/drawing/more pictures of this? I want to do something similar so I can go get vegetable oil from my friend who has about 3k gallons stockpiled where he lives about 35-40 minutes away, since he doesn't want to bring me more than 5 gallons at a time. Also it means I could go on a super long trip for cheap if I so desired lol
I'm sure I'll think of something else later, I'm a little tired from getting up at 5:30 to go to work
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-13-2012, 09:13 PM #32BUMP!!!! Planning on making a hitch for my car in the coming weeks, gonna try and make it class II or III or whatever, the one with a 2" square hole lol.
A few quick questions:
1. Probably gonna get Bilstein HD shocks for the rear, should I get them for the front too? Or regular or sport or what are my options?
2. Why not air shocks? It seems like they would be awesome because you could just pump them up for hauling and let a little out for cruising?
(06-08-2009, 08:06 AM)JB3 Your issue will be strength of the chassis, not so much what the engine can tow. I assure you, you can tow anything you want as long as it does not rip the rear of the car off! Im not sure if the SD has a different frame setup in the rear, but on the 123 chassis with a rear unibody and front sub frame, the towing weight limit was 1500 lbs with a 150 lb tounge weight on the same engine.
There are ways around this which involve strengthening the chassis. I was able to circumnavigate the problem by removing the bumper on my 240 and building a custom plate that I then welded a class three receiver I grabbed out of a junk yard onto the plate, then reinstalling the bumper. Pushed the bumper out about 1/4 inch, and put a nice receiver right below. I then welded in some braces that went forward from the plate to the quasi-frame on either side of the spare tire well.
Planning on doing something similar to this, got any pics!? I want to make sure mine is properly extra over engineered
Would an extra heavy duty hitch on a w123 possibly increase the maximum tongue weight? It seems like that recommendation may have been intended for the funky bumper/trunk bottom bolt-on ones that are overly priced.
(07-21-2009, 08:10 PM)JB3 Here you go, dropnosky original 50 gal aux vegetable oil trailer made out of former boat tank, motorcycle trailer, and aluminum. Twin parts and tool bins, fully lockable stainless hardware. Vehicle supplementary spare tire mount on front, trailer spare tire mount on side, 20lb tongue weight. 700 LB payload. (pics are before completion, final product is black has more exterior features including twin 8 inch fill ports, Ill post a pic later on).
Any plans/drawing/more pictures of this? I want to do something similar so I can go get vegetable oil from my friend who has about 3k gallons stockpiled where he lives about 35-40 minutes away, since he doesn't want to bring me more than 5 gallons at a time. Also it means I could go on a super long trip for cheap if I so desired lol
I'm sure I'll think of something else later, I'm a little tired from getting up at 5:30 to go to work
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
On my w123 I made a hitch from a bunch of 1/4" steel, bolted it to the stock bumper holes with grade 8 hardware, and had 3 arms go forward and attach to the underbody (again, with grade 8 stuff).
Added $20 1" rubber spring spacers, giving me a 2" lift at the wheel wells. This setup (along with a straight pipe) had to trouble pulling 3,000 lbs at 80mph-I think my EGTs topped at 1100*F on a long hill pull at interstate speeds.
The one thing I did remember about that trip, my cat was terrified by the turbo whistle at first. Poor lil' guy. Once he got used to it he manned the hat rack in the back, watching the cars go by. I wish I had a video of it, I'm surprised he didn't get whiplash :p
Post up a picture of your car's rear underbody and I can sketch out what I built-It's really straightforward and can easily be made for a 500# tongue weight. Here's a $50 sketchup in paint:
![[Image: hitchr.jpg]](http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/7887/hitchr.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-14-2012, 08:07 AM #33Didin't read the whole thread, I'm lazy/
On my w123 I made a hitch from a bunch of 1/4" steel, bolted it to the stock bumper holes with grade 8 hardware, and had 3 arms go forward and attach to the underbody (again, with grade 8 stuff).
Added $20 1" rubber spring spacers, giving me a 2" lift at the wheel wells. This setup (along with a straight pipe) had to trouble pulling 3,000 lbs at 80mph-I think my EGTs topped at 1100*F on a long hill pull at interstate speeds.
The one thing I did remember about that trip, my cat was terrified by the turbo whistle at first. Poor lil' guy. Once he got used to it he manned the hat rack in the back, watching the cars go by. I wish I had a video of it, I'm surprised he didn't get whiplash :p
Post up a picture of your car's rear underbody and I can sketch out what I built-It's really straightforward and can easily be made for a 500# tongue weight. Here's a $50 sketchup in paint:
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-14-2012, 08:07 AM)Simpler=Better On my w123 I made a hitch from a bunch of 1/4" steel, bolted it to the stock bumper holes with grade 8 hardware, and had 3 arms go forward and attach to the underbody (again, with grade 8 stuff).
I have no pics, but I pretty much did exactly what Simper=Better illustrates with his diagram.
The cool part is I was able to somehow honestly rent a tow dolly from uhaul for my 240D after having them inspect the hitch.
(06-13-2012, 09:13 PM)sassparilla_kid Any plans/drawing/more pictures of this? I want to do something similar so I can go get vegetable oil from my friend who has about 3k gallons stockpiled where he lives about 35-40 minutes away, since he doesn't want to bring me more than 5 gallons at a time. Also it means I could go on a super long trip for cheap if I so desired lol
I'm sure I'll think of something else later, I'm a little tired from getting up at 5:30 to go to work
heres how it looks currently, I still have this stashed in my garage-
![[Image: VOtrailer1.jpg]](http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/Trailers/VOtrailer1.jpg)
![[Image: votrailer2.jpg]](http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/Trailers/votrailer2.jpg)
![[Image: votrailer3.jpg]](http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/Trailers/votrailer3.jpg)
It worked out pretty well, the additional spare holder was pretty useful, and the bins have been extremely useful.
Some changes I have definitely been considering though.
1. its too beefily sprung, softer springs would be way way way better. The way its sprung right now gives it a 1000 lb load for a tiny trailer, but also puts it airborne and jarring when it hits bumps. An annoying problem
2. change the orientation from fore and aft to side to side. this would make the whole thing wider, and make it more visible from the side mirrors, (turned out to be a huge problem if you tow it with anything where the rear window is obstructed, can't see shit) It would also be better able to take corners, while increasing its ability to handle the lower tension springs.
Ive been pleased with it, and the 50 gallons are incredible for range, BUT, from experience, don't try and tow this over a border.
Canada, or back into the US. Towing fuel in a trailer like this, even VO, is not something that makes crossing guards happy.Im thinking of modifying it like above, and actually removing the fuel tank, just increasing storage capacity for camping, and maybe adding a rack stand for boats or bikes. Reason is I can tow it behind my 45mpg jetta, at which point I might as well have more stuff if I can go further with the car.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-14-2012, 08:07 AM)Simpler=Better On my w123 I made a hitch from a bunch of 1/4" steel, bolted it to the stock bumper holes with grade 8 hardware, and had 3 arms go forward and attach to the underbody (again, with grade 8 stuff).
I have no pics, but I pretty much did exactly what Simper=Better illustrates with his diagram.
The cool part is I was able to somehow honestly rent a tow dolly from uhaul for my 240D after having them inspect the hitch.
(06-13-2012, 09:13 PM)sassparilla_kid Any plans/drawing/more pictures of this? I want to do something similar so I can go get vegetable oil from my friend who has about 3k gallons stockpiled where he lives about 35-40 minutes away, since he doesn't want to bring me more than 5 gallons at a time. Also it means I could go on a super long trip for cheap if I so desired lol
I'm sure I'll think of something else later, I'm a little tired from getting up at 5:30 to go to work
heres how it looks currently, I still have this stashed in my garage-
It worked out pretty well, the additional spare holder was pretty useful, and the bins have been extremely useful.
Some changes I have definitely been considering though.
1. its too beefily sprung, softer springs would be way way way better. The way its sprung right now gives it a 1000 lb load for a tiny trailer, but also puts it airborne and jarring when it hits bumps. An annoying problem
2. change the orientation from fore and aft to side to side. this would make the whole thing wider, and make it more visible from the side mirrors, (turned out to be a huge problem if you tow it with anything where the rear window is obstructed, can't see shit) It would also be better able to take corners, while increasing its ability to handle the lower tension springs.
Ive been pleased with it, and the 50 gallons are incredible for range, BUT, from experience, don't try and tow this over a border.
Canada, or back into the US. Towing fuel in a trailer like this, even VO, is not something that makes crossing guards happy.Im thinking of modifying it like above, and actually removing the fuel tank, just increasing storage capacity for camping, and maybe adding a rack stand for boats or bikes. Reason is I can tow it behind my 45mpg jetta, at which point I might as well have more stuff if I can go further with the car.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I still need to order shocks to beef up the rear end, not sure what I'm gonna do about the front
And maybe gonna get slightly larger tires in the rear
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-14-2012, 11:52 PM #35Awesome and awesome, like the hitch, that's along the lines of what I was already planning. And as for the trailer, pretty sweet. I think I'm gonna do something similar, and good to know about orienting the tank sided-to-side. Also probably gonna add some baffles in there to prevent sloshing.
I still need to order shocks to beef up the rear end, not sure what I'm gonna do about the front
And maybe gonna get slightly larger tires in the rear
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(06-14-2012, 11:52 PM)sassparilla_kid Awesome and awesome, like the hitch, that's along the lines of what I was already planning. And as for the trailer, pretty sweet. I think I'm gonna do something similar, and good to know about orienting the tank sided-to-side. Also probably gonna add some baffles in there to prevent sloshing.
I still need to order shocks to beef up the rear end, not sure what I'm gonna do about the front
And maybe gonna get slightly larger tires in the rear
baffles are a good idea, the tank I used for mine was a totally unbaffled 50gal tempo boat tank, so now that your mention it, it occurs to me that mounting it side to side may cause major slosh/flip issues.
I think Im definitely gonna remove it and leave that tank in the garage instead.
It has a tendency to slosh forward and back when you slow down and accelerate, like a little kid pulling on your arm. Its amazing what kind of forces can be translated through the hitch.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-14-2012, 11:52 PM)sassparilla_kid Awesome and awesome, like the hitch, that's along the lines of what I was already planning. And as for the trailer, pretty sweet. I think I'm gonna do something similar, and good to know about orienting the tank sided-to-side. Also probably gonna add some baffles in there to prevent sloshing.
I still need to order shocks to beef up the rear end, not sure what I'm gonna do about the front
And maybe gonna get slightly larger tires in the rear
baffles are a good idea, the tank I used for mine was a totally unbaffled 50gal tempo boat tank, so now that your mention it, it occurs to me that mounting it side to side may cause major slosh/flip issues.
I think Im definitely gonna remove it and leave that tank in the garage instead.
It has a tendency to slosh forward and back when you slow down and accelerate, like a little kid pulling on your arm. Its amazing what kind of forces can be translated through the hitch.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So that's where I got my idea. I don't see your trailer flipping over unless you half the tank half full and they start drifting and taking hard corners, but you might want to think about adding a baffle or two in there!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-15-2012, 03:24 PM #37Yeah I already have had experience with sloshing in my trunk wvo tank, and although its not enough to notice a difference while driving, when the tank is low I can't make left turns because all the oil sloshes over and then air gets sucked up and then the car dies while I'm trying to get on the freeway lol. So that's where I got my idea.
I don't see your trailer flipping over unless you half the tank half full and they start drifting and taking hard corners, but you might want to think about adding a baffle or two in there!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I bought some air shocks for my 240, they will fit except for the fill valve. So need to cut that off and then reweld it at a right angle. Keeping heat from the rubber part may be a problem. Standard bilsteins did help a lot as the old ones were really bad. for now that will do.
I can tell you, when my sls was out and I was still driving around (bad idea btw) my tow hitch saved my rear more then once.
1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
I would like to upgrade to a class 2 hitch and be able to tow my stripped out w201 which would probably be around 2800Lbs. Right now my wagon has some class 1 hitch welded to it with some mickey circle-style hitch adapter that I can't seem to find anywhere.
I can tell you, when my sls was out and I was still driving around (bad idea btw) my tow hitch saved my rear more then once.
1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
Can't say I would go cross country with it.....but.........
louisyoung
03-07-2013, 09:03 PM #40I bought a bolt on trailer hitch from wallyworld designed to bolt onto a the three holes on a standard pickup truck bumper.... Drilled holes in the bumper of the veggie-benz and bolted that bitch on... Have not broken anything yet....
Can't say I would go cross country with it.....but.........
The brackets that hold the bumper on are made from some cast aluminium. Your description sounds pretty sketchy. Best off welding steel to steel with as much contact points as you can.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
^
The brackets that hold the bumper on are made from some cast aluminium. Your description sounds pretty sketchy. Best off welding steel to steel with as much contact points as you can.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
The ones that are made for w123’s are really similar, the difference is an added support bracket that through bolts to the spare wheel well under the car. But they aren’t receiver style
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
![[Image: PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg]](http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/1911diesel/media/PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg.html)
1911diesel
05-04-2013, 07:42 PM #43wow i know this thread is really old, but, i think 4k behind one of these old benzs is too much. even with the right hitch. (every benz i have bought has come with one either on or off the car.) the car its self is almost 4k and while it will do it. it will not likely do it long well. not with out a good trailer break, stopping is my biggest worry. i really think these old cars could haul what ever you put behind them if it will stay attached. (proper hitch) I just think the over all damage in the long run will out weigh buying a cheap tow pig. my 2 pennies.
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
The ultimate would be a hitch in the trunk for pulling gooseneck trailers though lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-04-2013, 08:11 PM #44I still wouldn't hesitate to pull another Mercedes of equal size short distances (across town) with a tow dolly. I would just make sure to do any towing early on Saturday morning so there wouldn't be as much traffic to worry about
The ultimate would be a hitch in the trunk for pulling gooseneck trailers though lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-05-2013, 06:15 PM #45With proper bracing you can pull like 4k. Just watch your temps, and install a transmission cooler
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Had no problem towing a w126 380se on a 700kg trailer behind my w123 anyway :-)
Scooted past trucks doing over 60mph uphill.
Drove 400km
Stock hitch. (1500kg Max)
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
07-10-2013, 06:50 AM #46http://mbturbo.com/mbturbo/w123-om602turbo/
Had no problem towing a w126 380se on a 700kg trailer behind my w123 anyway :-)
Scooted past trucks doing over 60mph uphill.
Drove 400km
Stock hitch. (1500kg Max)
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
I'm gonna need to get those heavy duty rear springs after I finish making this thing lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-11-2014, 05:23 PM #47Okay in case you all haven't noticed I have essentially zero concept of time when it comes to any type of cat related projects. Anyway, bought some stuff to start working on the hitch, got some 5"x3"x1/4" angle iron and some 1/4" wall 2" square tubing. Thinking about having about 1' long pieces of angle at the ends with the square tubing running across for the time being, I'll get some smaller pieces later to go forward and hook up under the trunk
I'm gonna need to get those heavy duty rear springs after I finish making this thing lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-07-2015, 12:40 AM #48Got some work done on the hitch, my phone won't let me upload pictures though for some reason so I'll put some up in a bit
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
![[Image: 127853d1425350608-300d-hidden-hitch-they...194610.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/127853d1425350608-300d-hidden-hitch-they-all-custom-20150206_194610.jpg)
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-02-2015, 09:55 PM #49Okay here's what I have so far for my hitch, obviously not done, needs more beefing up haha
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-02-2015, 10:10 PM #50What do you guys think I should use for the forward bracing? Think angle might work? Or something else? The bottom of the bracket doesn't fall below the body so the bracing is gonna need to have a "U" shape for the beginning, unless I weld something else on to get it lower
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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