Turbo Information Thread (Needs your contributions!)
Turbo Information Thread (Needs your contributions!)
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
02-12-2012, 04:55 AM #51Doesnt take longer for the 60 trim to spool because the exhaust side of the turbo remains the same
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-12-2012, 03:38 PM #52Awesome, lucky me I have an extra one in the garage, so its now added to the list along with an a/w I/C and learn how to do pump work
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
02-13-2012, 02:25 AM #53Send it down to Performance Techniques (www.turbocharged.com) James did mine and a few others from members here. Tell him Mercedes turbo and he will know haha
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-13-2012, 03:03 AM #54Unless I can find someplace local I will probably send it there, I'm trying to plan this out with my other projects so I can get as much work done on the car at one time as possible
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
I SEE U DISCONNECTED YOUR ALDL NO SETBACKS??
WONDER IF U CAN HELP ME, I TOO HAVE A 617 WHICH IM RETROFITTING TO A TOYOTA LANDCRUISER CHASSIS, I WAS WONDERING IF U CAN TELL ME WHAT I CAN BYPASS AS FAR AS VACCUM LINES AND WHAT TURBO WOULD WORK BEST FOR THAT EXTRA WEIGHT I GOTTA PULL NOW.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
I SEE U DISCONNECTED YOUR ALDL NO SETBACKS??
If you don't plan to modify the pump then I'd just stick with the stock turbo.
ALDA removal will result in smoke (and more power if it was not working properly), ALDA disconnection will result in lack of power.
The engine itself needs almost no vacuum lines, the only engine thing that needs vacuum is the engine shutoff. So it would depend on what exactly you have on your truck. Using the benz transmission? There are vacuum lines for that. Is your brake booster vacuum operated? That too. Etc. I'd suggest a new thread with more detail on what you're doing.
If you don't plan to modify the pump then I'd just stick with the stock turbo.
ALDA removal will result in smoke (and more power if it was not working properly), ALDA disconnection will result in lack of power.
(10-05-2012, 12:35 AM)Falkrum Hello guys, can anyone tell me how much weight of Holset HX27W? Some sellers tell me that weight is 15 Kg, other tell me that weight is 7 kg. Who is right?
I have a HX25 - no waste gate, and it weighs 4.3 kg. I think there is no way a hx27w can be 15 kg.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-05-2012, 02:50 AM #59(10-05-2012, 12:35 AM)Falkrum Hello guys, can anyone tell me how much weight of Holset HX27W? Some sellers tell me that weight is 15 Kg, other tell me that weight is 7 kg. Who is right?
I have a HX25 - no waste gate, and it weighs 4.3 kg. I think there is no way a hx27w can be 15 kg.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
(10-05-2012, 02:50 AM)DeliveryValveThank you! I want to use HX27w on my om602 with 6mm pump. Can i get 200 hp without spending too much fuel? I see that HX27w have 0,23 kg/s airflow, maybe HE200 series can be batter? It can get 0,33 kg/s airflow. What can you recommend?(10-05-2012, 12:35 AM)Falkrum Hello guys, can anyone tell me how much weight of Holset HX27W? Some sellers tell me that weight is 15 Kg, other tell me that weight is 7 kg. Who is right?
I have a HX25 - no waste gate, and it weighs 4.3 kg. I think there is no way a hx27w can be 15 kg.
.
(10-05-2012, 02:50 AM)DeliveryValveThank you! I want to use HX27w on my om602 with 6mm pump. Can i get 200 hp without spending too much fuel? I see that HX27w have 0,23 kg/s airflow, maybe HE200 series can be batter? It can get 0,33 kg/s airflow. What can you recommend?(10-05-2012, 12:35 AM)Falkrum Hello guys, can anyone tell me how much weight of Holset HX27W? Some sellers tell me that weight is 15 Kg, other tell me that weight is 7 kg. Who is right?
I have a HX25 - no waste gate, and it weighs 4.3 kg. I think there is no way a hx27w can be 15 kg.
.
Hi guys,
For those of you that know far more than I about turbo chargers can anyone tell me more about this turbo ?
I can't find any information about it on the holset website using the Assy nr 3580910 /981807 . Is this a HX35 family turbo as the nr starts with 35 ? Vendor states inlet.7 and outlet 22. and it's used for truck and industry. How much psi can this baby make ? Flowchart ?
Would this turbo make a good candidate for a om603 daily driver ( so fast spoolup )with 350 - 450 hp ?
Any input greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Geert
Hi guys,
For those of you that know far more than I about turbo chargers can anyone tell me more about this turbo ?
I can't find any information about it on the holset website using the Assy nr 3580910 /981807 . Is this a HX35 family turbo as the nr starts with 35 ? Vendor states inlet.7 and outlet 22. and it's used for truck and industry. How much psi can this baby make ? Flowchart ?
Would this turbo make a good candidate for a om603 daily driver ( so fast spoolup )with 350 - 450 hp ?
Any input greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Geert
Ps: how does one post pics via Android
Just tore down a T3, Im planning the 60tr as well. it was off 617 equiped300td cant see any numbers yet :-) , 3 questions for those who know more than i 。 is there a housing available that is non wastegated for this center section turbine spec . If not then can i pull off the IWG plate and knock up a flange? has any one tryed to adapt/spec an aftermarket wastegate, Actuator,plate? I wanna crank the,hell outta this little thing but i dont want spiked boost
Ps: how does one post pics via Android
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
01-08-2013, 01:24 PM #63Garrett T3, with a 60trim compressor wheel is only safe up to about 20 pounds of boost IIRC ... No need to use a different waste gate in my eyes
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Thanks Capt i dint realize it was so low we used to see 25 , easy on our ko3sports figured they were pretty close . , i don't want to run 30 psi more like 22 ish max (a heavier spring was offered with the rebuild. ), i just want quicker waste-gate reactions and flow , the standard unit is dookey(the wastegate dumps right into the exhaust stream ) so small and its hitting a wall essentially (I take this back its actually a pretty big chamber ) . just thinking about flow ( so i went at all the pockets with a grinder) .i also asked if there is a larger WG valve avalable , negative, unless i get lucky .
if there were a non waste-gated turbine for this section it would help with a compound setup later . plus cost . if i can get away with paying for half a turbo ? in any event , great posts im going to wander the truck yard with a mic and a exhaust manifold
has anyone with the 60TRimT3 had there on a dyno ? people with other turbos? Hopefully pics work
EDIT
Thanks Capt i dint realize it was so low we used to see 25 , easy on our ko3sports figured they were pretty close . , i don't want to run 30 psi more like 22 ish max (a heavier spring was offered with the rebuild. ), i just want quicker waste-gate reactions and flow , the standard unit is dookey(the wastegate dumps right into the exhaust stream ) so small and its hitting a wall essentially (I take this back its actually a pretty big chamber ) . just thinking about flow ( so i went at all the pockets with a grinder) .i also asked if there is a larger WG valve avalable , negative, unless i get lucky .
if there were a non waste-gated turbine for this section it would help with a compound setup later . plus cost . if i can get away with paying for half a turbo ? in any event , great posts im going to wander the truck yard with a mic and a exhaust manifold
has anyone with the 60TRimT3 had there on a dyno ? people with other turbos? Hopefully pics work
at high altitude--6,000 feet! Would that be a 6 blade, T3 flange, wastegated, 16cm housing--what else am I mssing here? I think the 6 blade would be better at high altitude.
My source can order any Holset part number turbo I want.
I've been reading up on the Holset's but it's hard to find good info. I'm going with the Super HX40 but it comes in a million variations for example there are 3 blade options from what I've read--6,7 and 8 blade. Apparently more blades equals better low end and less blades means better high end. There's also the compressor size. I guess the smaller the better but I don't know why. I've read billited blades are better-don't know why. Anyone have some imput. For the 606s we need good low end power. All I know is that I need the best option for a 500hp, 606 motor at high altitude--6,000 feet!
Would that be a 6 blade, T3 flange, wastegated, 16cm housing--what else am I mssing here? I think the 6 blade would be better at high altitude.
My source can order any Holset part number turbo I want.
A 16cm housing would be pretty big for a 606, wouldn't it? I have no experience with 606s, just asking
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Billet wheels are milled from a block of aluminum, and depending on who made it, can flow more air because of better wheel design. The super hx40 is a 60mm wheel, whereas the regular hx40 is only 58mm (I think). The larger the compressor wheel, the more air it can flow, but as a comprimise, the bigger it is the more mass it has, therefore making it more harder to spool up.
A 16cm housing would be pretty big for a 606, wouldn't it? I have no experience with 606s, just asking
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Wastegate from http://www.turborebuild.co.uk/ pn TB2804 @£50 of our English pounds. Thanks to axel606 for info on that.
![[Image: alda003_zps76a6c195.jpg]](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/a10ruk/300TD/alda003_zps76a6c195.jpg)
![[Image: alda001_zpsa114ca49.jpg]](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/a10ruk/300TD/alda001_zpsa114ca49.jpg)
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Pics of my KKK turbo (standard) as fitted to the 692 engine. Thought you might like to see my take on a wastegate fitting. Spring loaded sliding box holds the gate tightly shut and gives some flexibility when the lever moves: the lever takes a slight arc but the WG rod is fixed. Rose joint gives NO slack. Turbo exhaust side chamber has been ceramic coated. Home made WG bracket welded off 1/4 arc lockplate.
Wastegate from http://www.turborebuild.co.uk/ pn TB2804 @£50 of our English pounds. Thanks to axel606 for info on that.
.
Capt America , did they replace the waste gate diaphragm when PT rebuilt your turbo?
does any one know where to source a diaphragm for the stock t3 turbos waste gate?
Cool work Druk , does the extra spring also help the gate flutter when/if you over boost the motor?
Capt America , did they replace the waste gate diaphragm when PT rebuilt your turbo?
does any one know where to source a diaphragm for the stock t3 turbos waste gate?
(02-04-2013, 07:43 PM)lpumb3 Capt America , did they replace the waste gate diaphragm when PT rebuilt your turbo?I would imagine so but i didn't ask... it was at least disassembled because everything is spotlessly clean and painted. I am sure James can get any parts too
does any one know where to source a diaphragm for the stock t3 turbos waste gate?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
02-05-2013, 01:21 AM #71(02-04-2013, 07:43 PM)lpumb3 Capt America , did they replace the waste gate diaphragm when PT rebuilt your turbo?I would imagine so but i didn't ask... it was at least disassembled because everything is spotlessly clean and painted. I am sure James can get any parts too
does any one know where to source a diaphragm for the stock t3 turbos waste gate?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(02-04-2013, 07:43 PM)lpumb3 Cool work Druk , does the extra spring also help the gate flutter when/if you over boost the motor?
Hadn't thought of that aspect. I did it because the wastegate flap on this turbo is a particularly floppy device and I wanted to ensure it stayed shut.
.
i dig it , did you actuate it with a vac/boost pump to see if it acts progressive? i cant even comprehend the adjust ability you could have there with a couple spring to play with . very cool
Capt,
i was assuming the same , in the mean time . i was also able to do a bunch of porting waste gate seat 2-3mm at least. smoothed out the valve seat etc .blah blah sorry useless with out pics , but theirs a lot of meat in those little suckers that can go if you can take the time and ill be lapping the valve , or requesting while they have it . get that thing tight
any ways , its ready to rock when he gets it , but upon cleaning the waste gate/ parts i noticed that there is a small imperfection along the very edge of the diaphragm . so id like to replace it . wasn't sure if they did or didn't . it seems to be an oddball . i can only find sealed external push rod types and EWG kits with springs etc . i imagine the must =)
also , does any one know the purpose of the hole in the waste gate valve? i could blow right through the boost nipple when i did a quick reassemble? i may have put the spring seat in up side down , it was late . im not sure and that frigging spring was driving me insane . thought id ask .
Druk ,
i dig it , did you actuate it with a vac/boost pump to see if it acts progressive? i cant even comprehend the adjust ability you could have there with a couple spring to play with . very cool
Capt,
i was assuming the same , in the mean time . i was also able to do a bunch of porting waste gate seat 2-3mm at least. smoothed out the valve seat etc .blah blah sorry useless with out pics , but theirs a lot of meat in those little suckers that can go if you can take the time and ill be lapping the valve , or requesting while they have it . get that thing tight
any ways , its ready to rock when he gets it , but upon cleaning the waste gate/ parts i noticed that there is a small imperfection along the very edge of the diaphragm . so id like to replace it . wasn't sure if they did or didn't . it seems to be an oddball . i can only find sealed external push rod types and EWG kits with springs etc . i imagine the must =)
also , does any one know the purpose of the hole in the waste gate valve? i could blow right through the boost nipple when i did a quick reassemble? i may have put the spring seat in up side down , it was late . im not sure and that frigging spring was driving me insane . thought id ask .
this can be used to mount a gt2359v in my OM606?
Patrol ZD30 TDi Manual Boost Controller
This page illustrates how I fitted my manual boost controller for the ZD30 Patrol's Garrett GT2052v Variable Geometry Turbocharger.
The Dawes Valve is unique to TDi cars with Vacuum Controlled Nozzle Actuators and works in a similar way to a Ball Valve, but without the vent hole to release pressure for the Wastegate. Manual boost control is achieved by bypassing the ECU controlled Solenoid Valve to have total control via a Needle Valve from inside the vehicle. The Needle Valve controls the rate of turbo spool and the TDi Dawes Valve controls maximum boost to a moderate 18psi at full throttle and 4000rpm.
This system eliminates boost spikes to over 25psi as well as boost fluctuations for EGR, which helps to maintain lower EGT's by having constant boost levels at lower pressures. It creates a linear boost curve that is far more predictable than the factory curve.
________________________________________________________________
ECU Control with TDi Dawes Valve Boost Limiter.
One option for controlling boost is to simply fit a TDi Dawes Controller while retaining the VNT control solenoid and use it as an adjustable limiter to reduce boost overshoot or spikes. This option works well if retaining EGR and still allows for boost to fall away under ECU control.
________________________________________________________________
Single Stage TDi Dawes Manual Control System.
If the EGR is blocked, then a fully manual TDi controller is the better option which consists of at least one Dawes TDi valve and a Needle valve along with bypassing the ECU boost control solenoid.
________________________________________________________________
Duel Stage TDi Dawes Manual Control System.
I currently use a two stage boost controller that utilizes two TDi Dawes Valves and an additional Electric Solenoid Valve to achieve two selectable boost levels. I set one valve to 10psi for economy and engine preservation and the other to 15psi, which helps to control EGT's and give additional power when it's needed. High boost is activated via the TPS and a voltage switch. Click on the image below to see the electrical control circuit.
________________________________________________________________
Fitting A Dawes Valve Or Manual Boost Controller
Fitting a TDi Dawes Valve or Manual Boost Controller is relatively easy, but a boost gauge and intake manifold pressure supply is needed to set up, monitor and control boost. A pressure supply is routed to the Dawes Valve and used to lift the ball off of it's seat and release a small amount of pressure to cancel out or reduce the vacuum signal to the turbo actuator in order to reduce boost. To do this, the top of the valve is plumbed to the turbo actuator and the vacuum supply pump.
A needle valve is necessary to reduce the rate of spool up if the ECU control solenoid is bypassed. It can be fitted as a "set and forget" option or in cab to make adjustments on the go. In some cases it may be omitted if the VNT actuator stop limiting screw is adjusted accordingly on the turbocharger.
A clean air supply is needed to reduce the vacuum signal and its taken from the Air Filter Resonator, which is the same source as the ECU Solenoid Valve uses from "Port C".
Setting up will depend on the system being used, but some basic principals should apply. For full manual control, the TDi Dawes Valve should be set to around 10psi at 2000rpm and the Needle Valve adjusted to give no more than 6psi at 1500rpm. These are safe conservative limits. As rpm and load increases, the Turbocharger will overcome the TDi Dawes valve and boost levels will rise beyond the initial setting. Ideally, boost should peak to 18psi at 4000rpm and an ideal setting of 16psi at 3600rpm should be achievable.
To set up or adjust a manual controller, close the needle valve and start the car. At idle, begin to open the needle valve until the turbo actuator arm drops away from its stop screw. Then just close it slightly until you see the arm lift and touch the actuator stop screw and lock it there. Then simply adjust your TDi Dawes valve to the amount of boost that you wish to run on. I'd suggest around 15psi at about 1/2 throttle with a bit of load. You should see boost climb higher with more revs and load, but provided it doesn't exceed 15psi below 3000rpm and 18psi at 4000rpm, it should be good. Any other minor adjustments can be done with the limiting screw or the needle valve, but shouldn't make much difference to the setup apart from altering the spool rate slightly.
TDi Dawes Valves are available from 3 Bar Racing in the USA (www.3barracing.com) for US$39 plus $10 for shipping to AU. Needle Valves can be found at most Pneumatic and Hydraulic parts suppliers. Dependable Distributors in Adelaide sell a good kit for around $90 with all necessary fittings.
vidalzorrero
05-30-2013, 02:18 PM #75esto puede servir para montar un gt2359v en mi om606?
this can be used to mount a gt2359v in my OM606?
Patrol ZD30 TDi Manual Boost Controller
This page illustrates how I fitted my manual boost controller for the ZD30 Patrol's Garrett GT2052v Variable Geometry Turbocharger.
The Dawes Valve is unique to TDi cars with Vacuum Controlled Nozzle Actuators and works in a similar way to a Ball Valve, but without the vent hole to release pressure for the Wastegate. Manual boost control is achieved by bypassing the ECU controlled Solenoid Valve to have total control via a Needle Valve from inside the vehicle. The Needle Valve controls the rate of turbo spool and the TDi Dawes Valve controls maximum boost to a moderate 18psi at full throttle and 4000rpm.
This system eliminates boost spikes to over 25psi as well as boost fluctuations for EGR, which helps to maintain lower EGT's by having constant boost levels at lower pressures. It creates a linear boost curve that is far more predictable than the factory curve.
________________________________________________________________
ECU Control with TDi Dawes Valve Boost Limiter.
One option for controlling boost is to simply fit a TDi Dawes Controller while retaining the VNT control solenoid and use it as an adjustable limiter to reduce boost overshoot or spikes. This option works well if retaining EGR and still allows for boost to fall away under ECU control.
________________________________________________________________
Single Stage TDi Dawes Manual Control System.
If the EGR is blocked, then a fully manual TDi controller is the better option which consists of at least one Dawes TDi valve and a Needle valve along with bypassing the ECU boost control solenoid.
________________________________________________________________
Duel Stage TDi Dawes Manual Control System.
I currently use a two stage boost controller that utilizes two TDi Dawes Valves and an additional Electric Solenoid Valve to achieve two selectable boost levels. I set one valve to 10psi for economy and engine preservation and the other to 15psi, which helps to control EGT's and give additional power when it's needed. High boost is activated via the TPS and a voltage switch. Click on the image below to see the electrical control circuit.
________________________________________________________________
Fitting A Dawes Valve Or Manual Boost Controller
Fitting a TDi Dawes Valve or Manual Boost Controller is relatively easy, but a boost gauge and intake manifold pressure supply is needed to set up, monitor and control boost. A pressure supply is routed to the Dawes Valve and used to lift the ball off of it's seat and release a small amount of pressure to cancel out or reduce the vacuum signal to the turbo actuator in order to reduce boost. To do this, the top of the valve is plumbed to the turbo actuator and the vacuum supply pump.
A needle valve is necessary to reduce the rate of spool up if the ECU control solenoid is bypassed. It can be fitted as a "set and forget" option or in cab to make adjustments on the go. In some cases it may be omitted if the VNT actuator stop limiting screw is adjusted accordingly on the turbocharger.
A clean air supply is needed to reduce the vacuum signal and its taken from the Air Filter Resonator, which is the same source as the ECU Solenoid Valve uses from "Port C".
Setting up will depend on the system being used, but some basic principals should apply. For full manual control, the TDi Dawes Valve should be set to around 10psi at 2000rpm and the Needle Valve adjusted to give no more than 6psi at 1500rpm. These are safe conservative limits. As rpm and load increases, the Turbocharger will overcome the TDi Dawes valve and boost levels will rise beyond the initial setting. Ideally, boost should peak to 18psi at 4000rpm and an ideal setting of 16psi at 3600rpm should be achievable.
To set up or adjust a manual controller, close the needle valve and start the car. At idle, begin to open the needle valve until the turbo actuator arm drops away from its stop screw. Then just close it slightly until you see the arm lift and touch the actuator stop screw and lock it there. Then simply adjust your TDi Dawes valve to the amount of boost that you wish to run on. I'd suggest around 15psi at about 1/2 throttle with a bit of load. You should see boost climb higher with more revs and load, but provided it doesn't exceed 15psi below 3000rpm and 18psi at 4000rpm, it should be good. Any other minor adjustments can be done with the limiting screw or the needle valve, but shouldn't make much difference to the setup apart from altering the spool rate slightly.
TDi Dawes Valves are available from 3 Bar Racing in the USA (www.3barracing.com) for US$39 plus $10 for shipping to AU. Needle Valves can be found at most Pneumatic and Hydraulic parts suppliers. Dependable Distributors in Adelaide sell a good kit for around $90 with all necessary fittings.
-Turbo Precision billet t6766 journal bearing
-Ar 70 on the compressor housing inducer 67 exducer 88
-twin-entry turbine t4 inducer exducer 74 66 Ar 1.00
There's a youtube video and it looks good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggEtUyG76pc
My main question is what turbo setup would go with Dieselmeken's new 8mm, 230cc pump? Precision Turbo seems to offer a lot, but I don't know anything about their quality or durability.
Anyone know much about Precision Turbos. I saw that one guy used a Precision turbo with these specs:
-Turbo Precision billet t6766 journal bearing
-Ar 70 on the compressor housing inducer 67 exducer 88
-twin-entry turbine t4 inducer exducer 74 66 Ar 1.00
There's a youtube video and it looks good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggEtUyG76pc
My main question is what turbo setup would go with Dieselmeken's new 8mm, 230cc pump? Precision Turbo seems to offer a lot, but I don't know anything about their quality or durability.
mikes02ls1
08-22-2013, 10:25 PM #77I want to modify my garrett T25 tufbo, thinking of putting a GT25R, want to keep the stock manifold just message it some. Has anyone tried this set up on a om602?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Bangaway, precision makes very nice turbos, with a very nice price tag. 67mm inducer is pretty large you know? Hx35 is only 56. Super hx40 is 60mm
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
EDH_Performance
10-29-2013, 05:01 AM #79Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(10-29-2013, 07:15 AM)MFSuper90(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
Yes thats true! Must modify the bolt holes a little, maybe a few mm
The hole in the middle fits quite good!
EDH_Performance
10-29-2013, 07:44 AM #81(10-29-2013, 07:15 AM)MFSuper90(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
Yes thats true! Must modify the bolt holes a little, maybe a few mm
The hole in the middle fits quite good!
(10-29-2013, 07:44 AM)EDH_Performance(10-29-2013, 07:15 AM)MFSuper90(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
Yes thats true! Must modify the bolt holes a little, maybe a few mm
The hole in the middle fits quite good!
Must be a t4i. Holset hx52 are the t4i also
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(10-29-2013, 07:44 AM)EDH_Performance(10-29-2013, 07:15 AM)MFSuper90(10-29-2013, 05:01 AM)EDH_Performance Holset HE300WG
Compressor:
58mm Inducer/85mm Exducer
Turbine: 8cm2 housing with special "t4" flange
Inducer 65mm/Exducer 52mm
Can flow 66lbs/min and pr of 5
Is that a t4i flange? It's very close to a t4, but will not bolt up without modding the holes a little
Yes thats true! Must modify the bolt holes a little, maybe a few mm
The hole in the middle fits quite good!
Must be a t4i. Holset hx52 are the t4i also
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I was just hoping to learn something new
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I've read that they are much more susceptible to failure due to contamination, but that is anything ball bearing. Running a very small micron filter should solve that problem. But I didn't know whether they are more prone to surge because of the fast spooling nature or what.
I was just hoping to learn something new
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(12-29-2013, 12:40 AM)MFSuper90 I've read that they are much more susceptible to failure due to contamination, but that is anything ball bearing. Running a very small micron filter should solve that problem. But I didn't know whether they are more prone to surge because of the fast spooling nature or what.
I was just hoping to learn something new
Yes I agree with you that they can be more susceptible, just a pity Alex can not comment on it since he is working with turbos and have good insight, but I guess he is so busy. But I also fell that just to say "Ballbearing is never a good idea for a daily" in not that good
(12-29-2013, 12:40 AM)MFSuper90 I've read that they are much more susceptible to failure due to contamination, but that is anything ball bearing. Running a very small micron filter should solve that problem. But I didn't know whether they are more prone to surge because of the fast spooling nature or what.
I was just hoping to learn something new
Personally, I take this with a grain of salt. If you size the turbo and the exhaust housing right, a quality BB turbo should last a long time.
raysorenson
12-31-2013, 11:36 AM #90I think the current intarweb meme about ballbearing turbos not lasting on diesels is rooted in the rumor that since a turbo mated to a diesel has to maintain higher rpms at lower loads, this will cause the bearings to wear faster. But then I also heard, which also may just be a rumor, that ball bearing turbos were created for diesels to reduce emissions on throttle tip-in.
Personally, I take this with a grain of salt. If you size the turbo and the exhaust housing right, a quality BB turbo should last a long time.
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
Stevo-trendy
03-24-2014, 05:13 AM #92Anyone know the different between a om662la or 2.9td garret turbocharger against the om605 garret turbo ? I'm sure they share the same turbo flange
![[Image: 20140429_131851urjyq.jpg]](http://abload.de/image.php?img=20140429_131851urjyq.jpg)
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Mercedes Benz W210 E-Class 320CDI, lowered 2.5", 18" AMG wheels, Decat, EGR removed, Tumble flaps removed, C30 AMG injectors, 400kpa MAP, Custom GT2566XTV turbo, SW tweaked to 300+hp/750Nm
Garrett GT3063VKL (Although nameplate says GT25 *lol*.....usual for Garrett....)
Mercedes Benz W210 E-Class 320CDI, lowered 2.5", 18" AMG wheels, Decat, EGR removed, Tumble flaps removed, C30 AMG injectors, 400kpa MAP, Custom GT2566XTV turbo, SW tweaked to 300+hp/750Nm
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/engine-d...hread.html
Its not diesel, but its holset related and it could be of use to someone. Worth a read if you've got the time. I've only read a couple of pages so if anyone can dig any info out then be my guest
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/engine-d...hread.html
http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/
OK I think this will help a lot of people. Just click on the link, type in whatever turbo you're after, and it will display a list of all trucks/engines that came with it.
http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/
if there were a non waste-gated turbine for this section it would help with a compound setup later . plus cost . if i can get away with paying for half a turbo ? in any event , great posts im going to wander the truck yard with a mic and a exhaust manifold
My turbo's a t3 with a external wastegate factory, 79-80 saab 99 and i here early 81 saab 900. 2 1/4 out with a 4-bolt flange. you probably dont need this any more, lol
[quote='lpumb3' pid='47574' dateline='1357695126']
if there were a non waste-gated turbine for this section it would help with a compound setup later . plus cost . if i can get away with paying for half a turbo ? in any event , great posts im going to wander the truck yard with a mic and a exhaust manifold
My turbo's a t3 with a external wastegate factory, 79-80 saab 99 and i here early 81 saab 900. 2 1/4 out with a 4-bolt flange. you probably dont need this any more, lol
I am in process of upgrading my 602 with Goran's 7.5 mm pump. Obviously my stock turbo is to small. Locally I have available HE351CW and HY35. Which one of those two would be a better choice. I am looking for dd application so I am not much concerned about top end performance.
Most of my driving is between 2000 to 3000 rpm. Your advice would be much appreciated.
Anjay
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
Hi guys!
I am in process of upgrading my 602 with Goran's 7.5 mm pump. Obviously my stock turbo is to small. Locally I have available HE351CW and HY35. Which one of those two would be a better choice. I am looking for dd application so I am not much concerned about top end performance.
Most of my driving is between 2000 to 3000 rpm. Your advice would be much appreciated.
Anjay
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
(11-17-2014, 01:21 PM)anjay Hi guys!
I am in process of upgrading my 602 with Goran's 7.5 mm pump. Obviously my stock turbo is to small. Locally I have available HE351CW and HY35. Which one of those two would be a better choice. I am looking for dd application so I am not much concerned about top end performance.
Most of my driving is between 2000 to 3000 rpm. Your advice would be much appreciated.
Anjay
Both are very similar, the HE offering a superior turbine design as well as a bigger compressor. I think it tops out at 67LBS. I think if your looking to DD the car and you do not want to modify you OEM manifold i would recommend something like a T25 based GT28. Both the Holset will be a lot more then you need for you 602 if DD the car. If you dont want to spend the money on a GT28 then you could source many different T25 turbos that would be offer more flow then your stock 602 unit and bolt to the OE manifold.
As my 605 build is progressing i've been back at the search for a good choice of turbo.
I've been messing with the BW MatchBot and finding the results intriguing.
Have a look..
F.R.A.S. i'd love your weigh in on this..
Borg Warner MatchBot
Duncansport
11-30-2014, 01:53 PM #99(11-17-2014, 01:21 PM)anjay Hi guys!
I am in process of upgrading my 602 with Goran's 7.5 mm pump. Obviously my stock turbo is to small. Locally I have available HE351CW and HY35. Which one of those two would be a better choice. I am looking for dd application so I am not much concerned about top end performance.
Most of my driving is between 2000 to 3000 rpm. Your advice would be much appreciated.
Anjay
Both are very similar, the HE offering a superior turbine design as well as a bigger compressor. I think it tops out at 67LBS. I think if your looking to DD the car and you do not want to modify you OEM manifold i would recommend something like a T25 based GT28. Both the Holset will be a lot more then you need for you 602 if DD the car. If you dont want to spend the money on a GT28 then you could source many different T25 turbos that would be offer more flow then your stock 602 unit and bolt to the OE manifold.
As my 605 build is progressing i've been back at the search for a good choice of turbo.
I've been messing with the BW MatchBot and finding the results intriguing.
Have a look..
F.R.A.S. i'd love your weigh in on this..
Borg Warner MatchBot
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