Wanting a little lift on my rear...
Wanting a little lift on my rear...
I run the car on wvo and whenever i fill my tank the added weight sinks the car.
Please lets put aside any debates on the effects of running wvo and blah blah blah but I am asking what springs/shocks or anything Else I can do to help keep the rear end up higher and help with the added weight.
thanks
PS I did replace all four shocks on the car about five months ago.
Purplecomputer
02-14-2012, 08:30 PM #1Okay so you guys are probably going to kill me but...
I run the car on wvo and whenever i fill my tank the added weight sinks the car.
Please lets put aside any debates on the effects of running wvo and blah blah blah but I am asking what springs/shocks or anything Else I can do to help keep the rear end up higher and help with the added weight.
thanks
PS I did replace all four shocks on the car about five months ago.
(02-14-2012, 08:45 PM)larsalan My car sinks when I fill it with pump #2
Oh yeah, Since I also have a two tank system the diesel tank when full puts weight on there too...
Purplecomputer
02-14-2012, 09:24 PM #4(02-14-2012, 08:45 PM)larsalan My car sinks when I fill it with pump #2
Oh yeah, Since I also have a two tank system the diesel tank when full puts weight on there too...
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
02-14-2012, 09:26 PM #5Stop filling up with WVO and your not going to have that issue
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
With that being said I know my dad's F-150 has air SHOCKS that you can adjust with a regular tire pump, and they work pretty well. If you could set up a simple compressor to a switch this might be a viable option, as long as you added a valve to bleed some of the air out when the tank gets low. Another option that is undoubtedly much more expensive is to get some of those fancy air bags with a hole in the center to allow for use on macpherson/chapman style struts. Here's a couple examples, unfortunately I couldn't find the same sites I found a few months ago because they had them for ~$50 cheaper per bag
http://www.rollpans.com/Universal-Air-Fr...14736.html
http://www.kmwperformance.com/product/USTRUTBAG
Having almost 40 gallons of fuel on board (both diesel and veg tanks full) adds about 300lbs to the car, all on the rear end, which sucks for various reasons, the most annoying to me being the rear end sag can look ridiculous, and my headlights are all whack most of the time because I either have too little or too much fuel on board so they end up being aimed really close to the car or at the sky lol, and there's no convenient way to adjust them
Here's a whole thread on the bags, it took me a minute to realise who the main naysayer was
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-c...ks-go.html
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-15-2012, 01:34 AM #6Faack I have the same problem, I know one thing I have though about doing that I think might help somehwat is to get a really wide flat tank that sits up in the very font of the trunk to get the weight of the additional fuel closer to the center of the car (like holding a textbook close vs. arms extended)
With that being said I know my dad's F-150 has air SHOCKS that you can adjust with a regular tire pump, and they work pretty well. If you could set up a simple compressor to a switch this might be a viable option, as long as you added a valve to bleed some of the air out when the tank gets low. Another option that is undoubtedly much more expensive is to get some of those fancy air bags with a hole in the center to allow for use on macpherson/chapman style struts. Here's a couple examples, unfortunately I couldn't find the same sites I found a few months ago because they had them for ~$50 cheaper per bag
http://www.rollpans.com/Universal-Air-Fr...14736.html
http://www.kmwperformance.com/product/USTRUTBAG
Having almost 40 gallons of fuel on board (both diesel and veg tanks full) adds about 300lbs to the car, all on the rear end, which sucks for various reasons, the most annoying to me being the rear end sag can look ridiculous, and my headlights are all whack most of the time because I either have too little or too much fuel on board so they end up being aimed really close to the car or at the sky lol, and there's no convenient way to adjust them
Here's a whole thread on the bags, it took me a minute to realise who the main naysayer was
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-c...ks-go.html
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Get some 1" spacers and then get it aligned.
These or these: (I used the el cheapo black ones)
![[Image: vvUY44CdLpPh4Hynjf_Dezor7EZBrfidQCxoWSQe...2nEZro2v9n]](http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/public/vvUY44CdLpPh4Hynjf_Dezor7EZBrfidQCxoWSQeFrLwCtaOumDsyJ98ZWqdqnHi-y91g1iBBoDMaLcJ9wWlLXcZVATfHxHC43lIkN-Bq5DXqE1FgyqALZGe3E2bFmb_djgLv716ip836ccr15ycDODW1y2nEZro2v9n)
![[Image: D5aRyePGxATepLI0URDFtz4MeD9lxh0x0X51Q6-3...4lJqFLEjIe]](http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/public/D5aRyePGxATepLI0URDFtz4MeD9lxh0x0X51Q6-3GeGFwjDaEoaV1hb0INOLMAnHvqLf7Q1IZyfpwL2UqDoBz2B_-XTjHTUmj0w3aheSyI-qsp5VZPCGoeZZCBzhRSc1ai4lJqFLEjIe)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2012, 09:01 AM #8I used to tow with my 300D, not to mention the 5,000,000 pounds of junk I kept in the back. I bought a set of rubber spacer from @utozone for $25 total, dropped the rear end, and put the spacers under the springs. 1" at the springs = ~2" at the wheels. Worked great for me, except I didn't get an alignment afterward and chewed up my tires.
Get some 1" spacers and then get it aligned.
These or these: (I used the el cheapo black ones)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-15-2012, 09:01 AM)Simpler=Better I used to tow with my 300D, not to mention the 5,000,000 pounds of junk I kept in the back. I bought a set of rubber spacer from @utozone for $25 total, dropped the rear end, and put the spacers under the springs. 1" at the springs = ~2" at the wheels. Worked great for me, except I didn't get an alignment afterward and chewed up my tires.
Get some 1" spacers and then get it aligned.
These or these: (I used the el cheapo black ones)
This looks like a good option, what do you mean an alignment?
(02-14-2012, 09:26 PM)serverman777 Stop filling up with WVO and your not going to have that issue
that too
Purplecomputer
02-15-2012, 01:11 PM #9(02-15-2012, 09:01 AM)Simpler=Better I used to tow with my 300D, not to mention the 5,000,000 pounds of junk I kept in the back. I bought a set of rubber spacer from @utozone for $25 total, dropped the rear end, and put the spacers under the springs. 1" at the springs = ~2" at the wheels. Worked great for me, except I didn't get an alignment afterward and chewed up my tires.
Get some 1" spacers and then get it aligned.
These or these: (I used the el cheapo black ones)
This looks like a good option, what do you mean an alignment?
(02-14-2012, 09:26 PM)serverman777 Stop filling up with WVO and your not going to have that issue
that too
![[Image: Camber.jpg]](http://www.trachschmak.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Camber.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2012, 01:39 PM #10Because it's an independent suspension adding spacers under the rear springs will cause you to have positive camber in the back, and you will chew up your tires.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-15-2012, 01:39 PM)Simpler=Better Because it's an independent suspension adding spacers under the rear springs will cause you to have positive camber in the back, and you will chew up your tires.
Wow, great!
had no clue you could align the back.
What would the ride be like?
Purplecomputer
02-15-2012, 07:31 PM #12(02-15-2012, 01:39 PM)Simpler=Better Because it's an independent suspension adding spacers under the rear springs will cause you to have positive camber in the back, and you will chew up your tires.
Wow, great!
had no clue you could align the back.
What would the ride be like?
The ride will be the same as before-except your rear end will be higher off the ground.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2012, 09:57 PM #13I really liked having it raised up 2" vs stock
The ride will be the same as before-except your rear end will be higher off the ground.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-15-2012, 09:57 PM)Simpler=Better I really liked having it raised up 2" vs stock
The ride will be the same as before-except your rear end will be higher off the ground.
great, Ill see if my local auto parts has some. How easy are they to install? Will I need that special tool to compress the spring?
Purplecomputer
02-15-2012, 11:43 PM #14(02-15-2012, 09:57 PM)Simpler=Better I really liked having it raised up 2" vs stock
The ride will be the same as before-except your rear end will be higher off the ground.
great, Ill see if my local auto parts has some. How easy are they to install? Will I need that special tool to compress the spring?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-16-2012, 01:23 AM #15Unless you are he-man enough to squeeze the spring closed with your hands while somebody else puts the spacers in, you will probably need spring compressors
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-16-2012, 11:15 AM #17I dropped the rear in a parking lot-just make sure you unhook the swaybar to make things easier
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
New springs will ride better than just spacing old worn out springs. They still wont be able to support the weight, your rear end will just get a little lift so it's not so "low" to start out with.
Also, try getting new subframe bushings and a diff mount before you spend too much time on springs. From what I've read on the forums over the years these two bushings can cause the rear to sag badly and imitate worn springs. Might want to freshen everything up before you blame the sag on the springs.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Or the "non-ghetto" way is to replace the springs... In the "sls-removal" thread there is a part number for some lesjorfors springs from an S400 and they seem to be a good fit for our 123's. I think it was SurfRodder? installed a set on a 300D w123 and even with his heavy tool box in the trunk it didn't sag. I found them online and posted a link in that thread. Thats the route I'm going to go when I have some $$$ for them.
New springs will ride better than just spacing old worn out springs. They still wont be able to support the weight, your rear end will just get a little lift so it's not so "low" to start out with.
Also, try getting new subframe bushings and a diff mount before you spend too much time on springs. From what I've read on the forums over the years these two bushings can cause the rear to sag badly and imitate worn springs. Might want to freshen everything up before you blame the sag on the springs.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
then you could adjust the ride height to whatever you wanted!! and from what I hear they are super comfortable 
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-18-2012, 01:23 AM #20I think you should go with air bags then you could adjust the ride height to whatever you wanted!! and from what I hear they are super comfortable
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
And can be super expensive lol... unless you have the skills to fab up a kit from scratch it would probably cost more than most of our cars are worth haha... but then again we all probably put more in to these old benz's than a lot of people think they're worth haha... at least thats what my wife tells me
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-18-2012, 01:29 AM #22I think it could be almost affordable to do on the rear end only if you didn't put a compressor in the car and just had tanks of compressed air that got charged every couple days to run it on lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(02-18-2012, 12:49 AM)capflya Or the "non-ghetto" way is to replace the springs... In the "sls-removal" thread there is a part number for some lesjorfors springs from an S400 and they seem to be a good fit for our 123's. I think it was SurfRodder? installed a set on a 300D w123 and even with his heavy tool box in the trunk it didn't sag. I found them online and posted a link in that thread. Thats the route I'm going to go when I have some $$$ for them.
New springs will ride better than just spacing old worn out springs. They still wont be able to support the weight, your rear end will just get a little lift so it's not so "low" to start out with.
Also, try getting new subframe bushings and a diff mount before you spend too much time on springs. From what I've read on the forums over the years these two bushings can cause the rear to sag badly and imitate worn springs. Might want to freshen everything up before you blame the sag on the springs.
I should just replace everything. Ill try the subframe bushings first
you guys think this kit is worth it?
http://mercedessource.com/node/6960
Purplecomputer
02-19-2012, 05:53 PM #23(02-18-2012, 12:49 AM)capflya Or the "non-ghetto" way is to replace the springs... In the "sls-removal" thread there is a part number for some lesjorfors springs from an S400 and they seem to be a good fit for our 123's. I think it was SurfRodder? installed a set on a 300D w123 and even with his heavy tool box in the trunk it didn't sag. I found them online and posted a link in that thread. Thats the route I'm going to go when I have some $$$ for them.
New springs will ride better than just spacing old worn out springs. They still wont be able to support the weight, your rear end will just get a little lift so it's not so "low" to start out with.
Also, try getting new subframe bushings and a diff mount before you spend too much time on springs. From what I've read on the forums over the years these two bushings can cause the rear to sag badly and imitate worn springs. Might want to freshen everything up before you blame the sag on the springs.
I should just replace everything. Ill try the subframe bushings first
you guys think this kit is worth it?
http://mercedessource.com/node/6960
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-20-2012, 12:51 AM #24I would check out autohausaz, it seems like they have the subframe bushings and differential mount for cheaper than mercedessource, plus if I remember correctly I think I've read places that mercedessource stuff can be pretty cheap sometimes, but I've never ordered anything from them myself so I couldn't tell you for sure
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
I buy from autohausaz all the time. You just have to pick and choose sometimes. Stay away from the "URO" brand parts, they are usually not very good quality. europartdirect is another good place to get parts from and sometimes they're cheaper depending on the parts. carpartsdiscount is another one I used with good results and there's a 5% off coupon floating around the net if you search for it.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Either way, get it aligned after you fix it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-20-2012, 12:34 PM #26From what I read the springs don't really wear out, a member sent some out for testing and found them to still be within spec. Adding a spacer is the cheapest easiest way to do it, but subframe bushings can potentially work too.
Either way, get it aligned after you fix it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
All manufacturers have "tolerances" that are considered to be within spec, something can be within spec but still not be "up to snuff" with a new part. Even though you would think that is why the "tolerances" are there in the first place.
If bushings are bad, aligning will do no good. Waste of money unless the bushings get replaced
Better to start by replacing the old rubbers with new ones, will make a whole world of difference in how the car handles. Just did my front ball joints and lower control arm bushings. Front end feels nice and tight now! Just need some more $$ so I can do my subframe bushings and diff mount
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Sorry if I'm being too "critical" but a spring being "within" spec doesn't mean that it isn't sagging and has lost some of it's ability to support weight
All manufacturers have "tolerances" that are considered to be within spec, something can be within spec but still not be "up to snuff" with a new part. Even though you would think that is why the "tolerances" are there in the first place.
If bushings are bad, aligning will do no good. Waste of money unless the bushings get replaced Better to start by replacing the old rubbers with new ones, will make a whole world of difference in how the car handles. Just did my front ball joints and lower control arm bushings. Front end feels nice and tight now! Just need some more $$ so I can do my subframe bushings and diff mount
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
(02-20-2012, 07:03 PM)capflya Sorry if I'm being too "critical" but a spring being "within" spec doesn't mean that it isn't sagging and has lost some of it's ability to support weight
All manufacturers have "tolerances" that are considered to be within spec, something can be within spec but still not be "up to snuff" with a new part. Even though you would think that is why the "tolerances" are there in the first place.
If bushings are bad, aligning will do no good. Waste of money unless the bushings get replaced
Most of our cars are 25 - 30 years old so these rubber mounts are moat likely dry rotted and need to be replaced so ill start with all mine too. I think ill go from the bavk up replacing the sub frame mounts then working my way up
Purplecomputer
02-21-2012, 11:38 AM #28(02-20-2012, 07:03 PM)capflya Sorry if I'm being too "critical" but a spring being "within" spec doesn't mean that it isn't sagging and has lost some of it's ability to support weight
All manufacturers have "tolerances" that are considered to be within spec, something can be within spec but still not be "up to snuff" with a new part. Even though you would think that is why the "tolerances" are there in the first place.
If bushings are bad, aligning will do no good. Waste of money unless the bushings get replaced
Most of our cars are 25 - 30 years old so these rubber mounts are moat likely dry rotted and need to be replaced so ill start with all mine too. I think ill go from the bavk up replacing the sub frame mounts then working my way up
Its meyle brand i have the same brand for my motor mounts. They work fine so ill let you guys what i turn out with
Purplecomputer
02-21-2012, 02:34 PM #29Just ordered subframd bushing kit from autohausaz.
Its meyle brand i have the same brand for my motor mounts. They work fine so ill let you guys what i turn out with
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