Timing trouble
Timing trouble
Uponaplane
02-26-2012, 12:38 PM #1What's up STD? I'm trying to adjust/advance the timing on my 617 and I'm having some troubles. My 85 300d is the first car I've ever put a wrench on so excuse my noobness. I have learned and done a lot to the car and it's running a lot better than when I got it. My problem right now is this thing between the block and IP that's blocking my access to the IP bolt under it. It doesn't seem to be in the pictures on any DIY post for the drip method...What is it? It's got black wires going to it, one with a red stripe and one with a green stripe.
Uponaplane
02-26-2012, 01:01 PM #3Ok thanks...I've blocked off my egr and removed all the associated vacuum stuff. Safe to assume I can remove this too?
Lucky for me there wasn't one on the backside of this ip. That as I recall can be very hard to reach up by the oil filter housing.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I have got one of those on my ip. Finally managed to reach that nut or bolt whatever it is. I had to pull a glowplug out of the way for a socket wrench. And finally found the right combo of extensions to reach out there.
Lucky for me there wasn't one on the backside of this ip. That as I recall can be very hard to reach up by the oil filter housing.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Uponaplane
02-26-2012, 02:08 PM #6Yeah It was a bitch but I got the one at the back loose, this is the only one I can't get. I'm thinking about just putting it back together because it runs fine now. Although I get a steady stream instead of a drip all the way until somewhere between like 20-16deg btdc which seems pretty far from the 26 i wanted to set it at. Got that far and then had nothing so i never actually found the point where it drips. I think I somewhat understand the theory behind what's happening but I'm not sure. Does what I'm saying make sense? haha Any advice? Think it will be worth it to get this loose, adjusted (can I even get there with it that far off?) and then retighted? Like I said, it runs pretty well now but I'd like to do all I can to get it right.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-26-2012, 11:38 PM #7I have never even been able to find the one on the back, can somebody please explain where exactly it is hiding??
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
It's really tight. Like I had said before its like between the block and oil filter housing. Call up Stretch Armstrong to take it off and never put it back.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Someone may have a diagram but I doubt they have a picture It's really tight. Like I had said before its like between the block and oil filter housing. Call up Stretch Armstrong to take it off and never put it back.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
![[Image: 10.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/diy/injpumptiming/10.jpg)
Hopefully you can tell if it's still there or not on yours so you're not in there looking for something that's not there.
I need to go get some different extensions so I can get this last one loose on mine. Hopefully I get a little improvement. I need to look up how to check chain stretch too i guess.
Uponaplane
02-27-2012, 10:05 AM #9PP has a diy wiki with a decent picture of where the back nut is. You can can see where the wrench is grabbing it.
Hopefully you can tell if it's still there or not on yours so you're not in there looking for something that's not there.
I need to go get some different extensions so I can get this last one loose on mine. Hopefully I get a little improvement. I need to look up how to check chain stretch too i guess.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-27-2012, 01:45 PM #10I need to find a bright flashlight and check again, I think it may not be there anymore on mine
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(02-26-2012, 02:08 PM)Uponaplane Yeah It was a bitch but I got the one at the back loose, this is the only one I can't get. I'm thinking about just putting it back together because it runs fine now. Although I get a steady stream instead of a drip all the way until somewhere between like 20-16deg btdc which seems pretty far from the 26 i wanted to set it at. Got that far and then had nothing so i never actually found the point where it drips. I think I somewhat understand the theory behind what's happening but I'm not sure. Does what I'm saying make sense? haha Any advice? Think it will be worth it to get this loose, adjusted (can I even get there with it that far off?) and then retighted? Like I said, it runs pretty well now but I'd like to do all I can to get it right.
You should be able to achieve the drip at any timing advance you want. I read this as though you are doing it the opposite way... Sounds like you are rotating the crank to find the drip instead of rotating the pump? You want to set the crank at the desired advance and then advance or retard the pump until you get the drip... Set the crank at 26°BTDC and then rotate the pump. The "drip window" is
VERY small. Easy to use a 2x4 or something to lightly tap the pump in either direction while the bolts are snug. Moving it by hand is likely making you pass the "drip window".
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
02-29-2012, 01:10 AM #11(02-26-2012, 02:08 PM)Uponaplane Yeah It was a bitch but I got the one at the back loose, this is the only one I can't get. I'm thinking about just putting it back together because it runs fine now. Although I get a steady stream instead of a drip all the way until somewhere between like 20-16deg btdc which seems pretty far from the 26 i wanted to set it at. Got that far and then had nothing so i never actually found the point where it drips. I think I somewhat understand the theory behind what's happening but I'm not sure. Does what I'm saying make sense? haha Any advice? Think it will be worth it to get this loose, adjusted (can I even get there with it that far off?) and then retighted? Like I said, it runs pretty well now but I'd like to do all I can to get it right.
You should be able to achieve the drip at any timing advance you want. I read this as though you are doing it the opposite way... Sounds like you are rotating the crank to find the drip instead of rotating the pump? You want to set the crank at the desired advance and then advance or retard the pump until you get the drip... Set the crank at 26°BTDC and then rotate the pump. The "drip window" is
VERY small. Easy to use a 2x4 or something to lightly tap the pump in either direction while the bolts are snug. Moving it by hand is likely making you pass the "drip window".
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-29-2012, 02:55 AM #12I'm curious, does anybody know how many degrees the pump can actually be rotated??
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
After looking a little while I did finally find that back bolt on the IP. It was resting on the block just below the hole it should have been in where it had been dropped many years earlier. I don't think that one is a big deal to just leave off as long as you get the others snug.
I spent quite a while doing the drip method. The cutoff point from pouring out to dripping is super small. I had a wrench on the harmonic balancer/crank bolt which I applied constant pressure to, then used another on the power steering pulley that I would tap on with my palm to get it to move in small increments. Using only the crank bolt it was jumping 2-3* at a time, using my 2 wrench method I could move 0.5* if I wanted.
After looking a little while I did finally find that back bolt on the IP. It was resting on the block just below the hole it should have been in where it had been dropped many years earlier. I don't think that one is a big deal to just leave off as long as you get the others snug.
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