dropnosky's 115 chassis project
dropnosky's 115 chassis project
Another project, estimated finish time- Same date as zero US presence in Iraq.
Goal- 115 chassis, 617 turbo diesel powered, 5-speed, 3.07 rear end, modified turbo.
Car- 1974 240D 4-speed. Slight rust in the rear floor, otherwise very decent shape apart from missing some interior stuff and trim, lights and grill. Just sourced most of that stuff so its now pretty complete. Unknown mileage.
Engine- 130,000 mile pre EGR 617.
Tranny- Initally I am shooting for some form of MB 5-speed, working on this hurdle for a while, once its overcome, will be able to move forward with the rest of the swap. I have an 80% complete modifed W201 5-speed that needs some parts, and or possibly a true 123 5-speed that needs some parts. I will eventually have a grand total of 3 complete gearboxes all blown up in some way to try and make something. If that does not work, it will be a 5-speed out of another manufacturer. It has been a PITA trying to find a non damaged tranny. For this reason, an adapted Asian or domestic tranny may be a good idea later. Either way, SOME kind of OD tranny will get in there.
Rear end- 3.07, out of a 83 300D. Kinda high mileage, but should be OK to start with.
Turbo- This is Rudolf_Diesels Pre-OMG617 T3-T4 hybrid turbo. Exposed steel parts of it will have to be corrosion painted or it won't last long up here. (although I don't intend to take this car out in the winter)
Looks good!
sweet!
I've mated a 616 and a 617 to a slightly modified Mitsubishi KM145 4x4 trans, so the 90's Mitsu trannys are a good place to look.
With a 3.07 it would be doing Mach12 in 5th...
(10-02-2010, 05:33 AM)300D50 I've mated a 616 and a 617 to a slightly modified Mitsubishi KM145 4x4 trans, so the 90's Mitsu trannys are a good place to look.
With a 3.07 it would be doing Mach12 in 5th...
(10-02-2010, 05:33 AM)300D50 I've mated a 616 and a 617 to a slightly modified Mitsubishi KM145 4x4 trans, so the 90's Mitsu trannys are a good place to look.
With a 3.07 it would be doing Mach12 in 5th...
There's the KM132 5 speed that came in the 2.0 narrow block equipped trucks, and there's another that was in the trucks with a 2.4. The starions and conquests also had 5 speeds, not sure what pattern, narrow or wideblock, they are or the tranny codes.
You might be able to swap the tail section off a 2wd tranny on to remove the T-case, or you could remove the chain and sprocket for the front drive and cover the hole for the front shaft with a plug plate. Side effect, you get a 10 speed gearbox with a few granny gears for pulling stumps.
The "slight" modification is cutting a notch in the bell housing on the pass side to clear the starter.
I'm not sure how it will handle the torque though, since it's never seen pavement due to the frame being held together by factory undercoat and the bed bolts...
There's also the V5MT1 4x4 trans off the V6 mightymaxes, but I'm not sure if there's a 2wd tail section that's interchangeable with it. There will soon be a design to fit one to a 61x once I get a few more measurements.
I'm smack dab between Utica and Rome off the thruway.
Pics are all on my gallery.
Most any transmission can be adapted, it's just a matter of getting everything measured out. The removeable intermediate plate makes it a lot easier for sure.
ahh, how familiar that truck rot looks. Im not that far away, off and on in syracuse, and I drive through your area all the time. I should drop by and check out this rig in person. Looks impressive, whats that bumper off of, looks like a much larger truck?
How does the shifter work on that KM145? Any pics?
I want to be able to install the transmission into an MB body, which is the first reason I started with another side arm linkage MB tranny, so the shifter could basically be anywhere depending on the length of the linkage bars I made.
This is the biggest problem with putting another tranny in there, the shifting apparatus. Id like to grab a BMW getrag, and also a volvo 5-speed, all with side linkage, although its a bit antiquated since it can be adapted to the MB bodies easier. That or go the Rudolf route with the tremec. [/align]
Shifter sticks back off the tail housing, I'll get a measurement or 3 when I go back out in the shop. Speaking of measurements, happen to have the flange thickness of a 616/617 manual flywheel and a 617 auto flywheel? :mrgreen:
Oh, and I've got a 4 speed from a 240D sitting gathering dust, not sure if you'd be interested or not.
I am always interested in manual transmissions. Just the tranny, or shifter and linkage arms too?
Love the auto no double post too, a great feature of this site. That and picture hosting are some of my favorite aspects of this forum.
I have a 617 auto flywheel/driven plate kicking around. Manual flywheel is installed in the car Unfortunately, I don't have a reliable depth measurement device where it is, ill bring it with me upstate though, and I can get back to you later on today, or maybe tomorrow.
I've only got the trans, no linkages or shifter.
WOOT! Auto flywheel!
(10-04-2010, 10:11 AM)300D50 I've only got the trans, no linkages or shifter.
WOOT! Auto flywheel!
so, a year later im trying to get this thing up and running for the PA MB GTG this weekend.
With the original 55hp engine, should take me about 2 months to make it down to PA.
Thing needs a list of maintenance parts 2 pages long. Anyone know if I can use 123 chassis halfshafts in a 115? Mine are a little dry cracked
First big road test of the OM616.916 in this car is complete. It drove it about 400 miles yesterday. Car was a dog up until 60, but between 60 and 70 was the power band in 4th gear, so it was actually a blast to drive between that window, plenty of response and torque, was pretty impressive given the age and how this car has been sitting forever.
Here is a link to a pic from the meet, actually looks pretty decent, good angle that avoids the duct tape and paint problems. Ive pulled off all the trim, and will be filling the holes, as the body has a nice ridge in the metal work that looks great without all that trim. The trim is also ridiculously expensive for this car.
will be pulling the 616 soon as the space is available in the shop. like to get something with some more power in this body
http://flic.kr/p/au5od5
Very cool take some good pics with the turbo diesel! With that body it should haul ass they are quite a bit lighter than the w123
gift in the mail from good ol' Mike-81-240
also sourced a complete 115 interior plus a mountain of other parts for this car last week from a PP forum member- No tears or rips, just needs a good cleaning.
Great part is the front doors I grabbed from that parts car have wind wings!
Never even knew that 115's came with wind wings, but I need that feature on this car, love em.
Those wheels sure look familiar...
I like 'em!
Cool I also love the vent windows
Do they have the turn knob style or lever style opener?
(10-27-2011, 03:17 PM)willbhere4u Cool I also love the vent windows
Do they have the turn knob style or lever style opener?
so the other week i stole the 4-speed out of this car to put in my friends 83 240, and since then, decided to just pull the engine.
heres the iron 4-speed coming out. Shifts great now, we put a 10,000 mile clutch in her car, and used a CA based shifter assembly vs the sloppy POS that was in this car.
After that, the engine came out-
These two support bars on either side of the tunnel are going to be the problem with the oil filter, don't think the brake booster is actually going to be an issue, I hope to do a test fit tonight on the 617
right now im stripping down the 617 engine I have for this project to drop in and see how it looks. I have no idea of the year of this engine. Its a non EGR turbo, and it has weird looking vacuum pump on it, which has a line that goes direct to the intake.
(ill try and get some more pics, having a problem with my phone taking blurry pics right now)
Question for anyone who may know, do the 115 5cyl and 4cly engine mount arms match? Can I rip them off the 615 and bolt them to this "new" engine?
pic of the driver side mount arm-
(10-27-2011, 03:17 PM)willbhere4u Cool I also love the vent windows
Do they have the turn knob style or lever style opener?
A w115 diesel would be awesome, especially with some yellow hella 500 fogs
(03-01-2012, 07:21 PM)dropnosky Question for anyone who may know, do the 115 5cyl and 4cly engine mount arms match? Can I rip them off the 615 and bolt them to this "new" engine?
(03-01-2012, 07:21 PM)dropnosky Question for anyone who may know, do the 115 5cyl and 4cly engine mount arms match? Can I rip them off the 615 and bolt them to this "new" engine?
I got some 115 5cly mount arms and after some adjustments and 4 or 5 test fits, the engine at least sits in there.
Had to remove the battery tray for the more modern power steering pump clearance, and still have to trim the frame a little more to really get it enough room. Also had to cut a fender support arm that extends from the firewall down to make enough room for the turbo injection pump-
from the front. Lots of alternator clearance fortunately-
Bad news is that im going to have to do some serious cutting to get the turbo in there. Working on a plan now. Between block and frame, its 9.5 inches, and the stock turbo is 9.75 inches wide, let alone the Rudolf_Diesel progeny I want to get in here.
I will also have to cut the fender support on this side as well for exhaust clearance. Ill remake a pair of curved supports instead.
Stock toploader oil filter aint happenin'. There is zero room, for it, and it might even hit the firewall if I modify the heater control valve location, and change the brake booster setup. Going to have to be a spin on from below.
I thought I could put it where the battery was, but even there is pretty unlikely, its not a deep enough location for it
(03-13-2012, 10:17 AM)dropnosky .....
Bad news is that im going to have to do some serious cutting to get the turbo in there. Working on a plan now. Between block and frame, its 9.5 inches, and the stock turbo is 9.75 inches wide, let alone the Rudolf_Diesel progeny I want to get in here.
....
(03-13-2012, 10:17 AM)dropnosky .....
Stock toploader oil filter aint happenin'. There is zero room, for it, and it might even hit the firewall if I modify the heater control valve location, and change the brake booster setup. Going to have to be a spin on from below.
I thought I could put it where the battery was, but even there is pretty unlikely, its not a deep enough location for it
(03-13-2012, 10:17 AM)dropnosky .....
Bad news is that im going to have to do some serious cutting to get the turbo in there. Working on a plan now. Between block and frame, its 9.5 inches, and the stock turbo is 9.75 inches wide, let alone the Rudolf_Diesel progeny I want to get in here.
....
(03-13-2012, 10:17 AM)dropnosky .....
Stock toploader oil filter aint happenin'. There is zero room, for it, and it might even hit the firewall if I modify the heater control valve location, and change the brake booster setup. Going to have to be a spin on from below.
I thought I could put it where the battery was, but even there is pretty unlikely, its not a deep enough location for it
(03-13-2012, 01:11 PM)DeliveryValve You can always install an 1985 "Cali" Version exhaust manifold setup. That will prevent you from doing serious cutting to the body. But still have to make weld up a pipe from the manifold to the turbo though.
That's too bad. The toploader would be ideal for that engine. Stock w115 oil filter style or aftermarket style spin on?
(03-13-2012, 01:11 PM)DeliveryValve You can always install an 1985 "Cali" Version exhaust manifold setup. That will prevent you from doing serious cutting to the body. But still have to make weld up a pipe from the manifold to the turbo though.
That's too bad. The toploader would be ideal for that engine. Stock w115 oil filter style or aftermarket style spin on?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...6#pid23686
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-13-2012, 01:26 PM)dropnosky(03-13-2012, 01:11 PM)DeliveryValve You can always install an 1985 "Cali" Version exhaust manifold setup. That will prevent you from doing serious cutting to the body. But still have to make weld up a pipe from the manifold to the turbo though. ...
oooh, I may do that. its up high right? do you think it would work with the long runner intake thats on here? you have any pics of the cali exhaust?
...
(03-13-2012, 01:26 PM)dropnosky(03-13-2012, 01:11 PM)DeliveryValve You can always install an 1985 "Cali" Version exhaust manifold setup. That will prevent you from doing serious cutting to the body. But still have to make weld up a pipe from the manifold to the turbo though. ...
oooh, I may do that. its up high right? do you think it would work with the long runner intake thats on here? you have any pics of the cali exhaust?
...
Thanks for the pics and links!
yeah, wow, that would work perfectly. The issue in this engine bay is width, but there is a lot of height. There is a lot of room for a higher mounted turbo setup
I need to get my hands on some of that CA emissions stuff!
(03-13-2012, 02:13 PM)dropnosky I need to get my hands on some of that CA emissions stuff!
(03-13-2012, 02:13 PM)dropnosky I need to get my hands on some of that CA emissions stuff!
(03-13-2012, 06:25 PM)w123love(03-13-2012, 02:13 PM)dropnosky I need to get my hands on some of that CA emissions stuff!
Thats the first i’ve ever heard someone say that...
(03-13-2012, 06:25 PM)w123love(03-13-2012, 02:13 PM)dropnosky I need to get my hands on some of that CA emissions stuff!
Thats the first i’ve ever heard someone say that...
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
$65, not associated with the seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-300-D-T...20&vxp=mtr
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
updates-
So the trap ox thing supplied me with some excellent parts, but was not the ideal solution. What im doing now is making a little S-pipe to hold the turbo up high and space it out from the block. Ive got it sort of mocked up, pics later on.
In other related news, after a month or so, FINALLY got my flywheel back. Im using the 300DNA 38lb flywheel, which actually had to be match balanced with the stock auto flywheel, which was 15 grams weighted.
and compared to a normal 28lb 240 flywheel. Im going heavier for smoothness in 5th. I want this to be a nice highway cruiser.
mounted up aligned with the mark-
Next I got the transmission put in for driveshaft measurements, and uncovered some additional issues.
First, the 115 has just an incredibly versatile mounting arrangement for the trans mount, fully adjustable, and the stock mount works just fine with my W201 5-speed going into this car.
Its also a little weird, with the passenger side up much higher (I think for exhaust clearance right there). You literally have a foot of sliding space the mount would work in, anything could go in there, its a great design, I don't know why they didn't carry it over into the 123. No other but 115 mounts would work in the space, so im glad it worked out, otherwise it would have had to be custom.
and now the additional issue- the upper cast pan is wrong for this car, its hitting the subframe and the motor is resting on it. I will be notching the subframe, vs finding a 115 specific upper oil pan.
Got my measurements for the driveshaft, and thats been mailed off to be cut and balanced. Room is tight for the shifter apparatus, want to test fit all that soon. The tunnel is designed for the slope back iron 4-speed, which has loads of room everywhere since its short and stubby, the aluminum 5-speed is longer and has a different arm arrangement that might be an issue, we will see
a few updates-
rebuilt and mounted the 5-speed shifter-
I had previously rebuilt this with 12 dimes as a test of what it felt like stiffened up. The result is I hated it, and it jingled like change (as it would) every time I shifted. The hard bushing made shifting very notchety, so instead I sourced the factory rebuild kit and did it properly.
Excited to see how it feels all put together.
this is the shifter with what you get for 70 bucks of a rebuild kit. comes with a new aluminum yoke piece, and bushings ect.
and after removing all the dimes ect, all redone-
Installed in the car, two holes match, but two have to be redrilled. Its a pretty good fit, though the 115 has less room to play with for shifter location.
measured up and I have a custom driveshaft and a pair of stock axles for this now, which will be installed later.
removed the drivetrain, and now im having engine shock tabs welded in, and I notched the subframe so the lower oil pan of the later 617 would fit nicely.
Also having some rust dealt with that was under the battery tray, the inner fender was rotten-
shock tabs to be welded in-
locations (driver side)-
Passenger side-
subframe notched to be plated-
battery tray rust-
Ive given myself the goal if trying to get this done for a Benz GTG in august. Done as in movable and drivable, which may not be possible, but the idea is to get everything together rapidly, so I can have a while to figure out the turbo setup, and most importantly, the oil filter arrangement, which will have to be a custom mounted spin on.
Of course, I have not seen if this engine actually runs yet, so i may try and test that.
so questions-
Here is the stock bracing arrangement from the firewall that needs to be cut out-
Here is what I was planning to make instead-
but maybe I should go with a more strut tower brace arrangement?
what do you all think?
(both versions would be connected to the firewall in the middle)
Ive learned over on PP that apparently the gas versions of the 115 do not have these braces (which are thinwall and weak), so I was considering just cutting them out, but on every diesel version, they do, so im thinking these braces are a solution that MB came up with after the fact for some bad vibration issues with the diesels.
I like your strut tower brace idea!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Definitely go with the strut tower. The first design will straighten out as you bend the chassis
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Coming along nicely! Keep it up!
My vote is also for the strut tower option thingy.
As for w123 and the trans cross-beam - they did kinda keep some of the flexibility of the w115 - there's several sets of holes on either part, and you can basically have the cross-member mounted in one of three positions. There are different cross members for the extreme positions (the most up-front, and way back). This setup accounts for auto / 4-speed / 5-speed.
strut towers it is!
What im going to do once I get the car back from the rust place is put in a few angle iron tabs with holes drilled where those stock braces come down to the frame rail, that way if I do find some kind of issue, I can just bolt something to them long term
other updates-
now im not done with this, but here is how im mounting the turbo.
Im making this rounded heavy bracket system combined with a short S pipe. The idea was to build it along the same visual lines of the long runner intake, so that once its all finished, it will look nice in company with the long runner, which I find to be a slick component.
It will be two pieces, a plate and the cardboard piece up top off the valve cover, and the S tube and curved bracket on the side. There will be a bolt flange right above the long runner intake, that way I can adjust the dimension based on what I use for a gasket and such.
Im not done with the interior hole as well, this will be larger to reduce the blockyness of the component. The bracket itself is 1/4 inch plate, once done, I should be able to lift the engine from this thing.
Im a little concerned about hood clearance, but if it hits, I can modify the same setup to run through the long runner instead.
some pics-
I like it keep up the good work
Pretty slick!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
That's a piece of corrugated, not cardboard. Other than that it looks awesome!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Brace looks sweet man! I also vote for the strut tower brace.
(07-05-2012, 11:48 PM)Captain America Brace looks sweet man! I also vote for the strut tower brace.
(07-05-2012, 11:48 PM)Captain America Brace looks sweet man! I also vote for the strut tower brace.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
It looks great, what did you use on the battery tray rust? POR15?
I'd get the engine back in before you go making braces-I could see that going sideways in a hurry.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-06-2012, 02:51 PM)Simpler=Better It looks great, what did you use on the battery tray rust? POR15?
I'd get the engine back in before you go making braces-I could see that going sideways in a hurry.
(07-06-2012, 02:51 PM)Simpler=Better It looks great, what did you use on the battery tray rust? POR15?
I'd get the engine back in before you go making braces-I could see that going sideways in a hurry.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Ah, makes sense. Any reason you don't want to relocate the stock filter? You just need to trace a gasket and pound out two plates, then add some oil lines and voila!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-06-2012, 03:25 PM)Simpler=Better Ah, makes sense. Any reason you don't want to relocate the stock filter? You just need to trace a gasket and pound out two plates, then add some oil lines and voila!
(07-06-2012, 03:25 PM)Simpler=Better Ah, makes sense. Any reason you don't want to relocate the stock filter? You just need to trace a gasket and pound out two plates, then add some oil lines and voila!
updates-
removed and installed a piece of angle iron where that firewall mount location was.
Just ended up getting rid of the entire stock piece, reinforcing the firewall in that location, and welding in an angle iron bracket. The firewall is ridiculously thin
stock-
after reinforcement and angle iron installed-
This is what the shock tower looks like on a 115, not much of one really.
driver side-
passenger side-
I made some angle iron tabs, and welded them in right below the shock mount.
Interestingly, the factory bracing arrangement was asymmetrical, with the passenger side much further back welded to the frame rail than the driver side.
Im waiting for rubbercoating and paint to dry on the engine welding modifications, then I can get the drivetrain back in
wow. HUGE mistake.
Engine is in, notch in subframe worked perfectly, engine shock mounts worked out nicely, brace location worked out ok, but i have to completely remake the turbo S pipe.
When I took tentative measurements to make it, the engine was sitting on the subframe, which I knew, but I thought it was just barely touching, not sitting about 1.5 inches higher.
Ill put the whole drivetrain back in, and make the turbo pipe properly with everything sitting properly.