Welding on OM617 block???????

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

Naturally-aspirated

6

03-02-2012, 10:06 PM #1

Hey guys I made a stupid mistake and forgot to put in the spacers for the flywheel bolts, which allowed the bolts to press just enough on the thin part of the block that holds the rear rope seal in place and crack it. This was a mistake that happened while in the process of putting the engine back in the vehicle, so now of course I have had to take practically the whole engine apart to get at the rope seal. I lightly heated the bent area and gave it a couple light taps with a blunt chisel to straighten it out and of course it promptly cracked almost all the way around where the seal fits in.

So what kind of options do I have at this point?

Same thing happened to the oil pan, but I was able to repair it, I just don't know about welding on the block. There is that little thumb tack looking thing that might hold the top of the seal in, but I don't know. My pet peve is leaky rear main seals, I just don't want it to leak after I've done all this work. I have a mig and tig welder, I'm just terrified of making the crack spread any where else. I think it would be fine with a couple tacks not fully welded.

Your help and suggestions are greatly appriciated.
Thanks

barrote

Superturbo

1,627

03-03-2012, 06:51 AM #2

don´t u guys in the states have high temp "araldite" hypoxic glue?
if is just a small crack like u can fill it and done. u can also find hypoxic glues to repair cast iron, specially in aeronautics industry.
other way round u can welld cast iron with tig, mig, electrodes, silver. but be careful, weld cast materials is not the same as welding stell.
i would go with the hypoxic glue.
good luck

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Alastair E

Moderator?--Nah...

266

03-03-2012, 06:51 PM #3

Guess it can be welded by a good welder, but being Cast Iron, needs special care if its not to crack again after repairs--especially as the engine will be subject to heating and cooling.

Personally, I think I would be looking for a replacement block....

Mogcrazy

Naturally-aspirated

6

03-04-2012, 12:15 PM #4

Talked to our welding supply place about that fancy glue and he recommended I just take it to a specialty welding place just down the road that does a lot of cast iron TIG welding, so that's the direction I will be going. Hopefully won't cost an arm and a leg.

Thanks for the help

barrote

Superturbo

1,627

03-05-2012, 03:31 AM #5

(03-04-2012, 12:15 PM)Mogcrazy Talked to our welding supply place about that fancy glue and he recommended I just take it to a specialty welding place just down the road that does a lot of cast iron TIG welding, so that's the direction I will be going. Hopefully won't cost an arm and a leg.

Thanks for the help

YEY MAN , THIS GLUE MAKES WONDERS, BE CAREFUL WELDING CAST IRON THINGS. USUALLY IS NECESSARY TO MACHINE AFTER WELDING. AND FOR TIG PROCESS TO TAKE PLACE THE PLASMA IS 3000ºC. CONSIDER THAT.
HOPE OVER THERE WELDING SHOP´S DO BITE YOUR HAIR.
REGARDS TO U ALL.

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

toyfreak

K26-2

46

03-05-2012, 12:34 PM #6

Silver braze it.

barrote

Superturbo

1,627

03-08-2012, 10:35 AM #7

u have to try, sometimes is not only cast iron, they add some other stuff and silver does not stick very well, nothing like to try. only think u need is a blow torch or the tig torch, rod of silver 40 to 60% depending of what u can get over there, or even u can get cadmium or nickel this materials stick to everything with magnetic properties and stainless steel as well.
good luck

hey send me a picture of the crack, i´ll give u an good idea of what u can do.

This post was last modified: 03-08-2012, 10:37 AM by barrote.

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

Users browsing this thread:
4 Guest(s)