Aligning door strikers
Aligning door strikers
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03-08-2012, 05:47 PM
#1
I went to the auto body and asked them how much it would be to replace (with new ones that I have) and align the strikers....
the guy told me $400......... I could put that money torwards repairing the front suspension of the car, screw that guy.
So like a good DIY mechanic im just going to do it myself so i can learn. Any tips/Tutorials?
This post was last modified: 03-08-2012, 07:18 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
03-08-2012, 05:47 PM #1So....
I went to the auto body and asked them how much it would be to replace (with new ones that I have) and align the strikers....
the guy told me $400......... I could put that money torwards repairing the front suspension of the car, screw that guy.
So like a good DIY mechanic im just going to do it myself so i can learn. Any tips/Tutorials?
03-08-2012, 07:17 PM
#3
(03-08-2012, 06:35 PM)aaa They take forever to get right...
which is why i wanted to take them to an auto body shop and not have to deal with doing it myself but at $400 ill either have to look around or just do them myself.
Purplecomputer
03-08-2012, 07:17 PM #3(03-08-2012, 06:35 PM)aaa They take forever to get right...
which is why i wanted to take them to an auto body shop and not have to deal with doing it myself but at $400 ill either have to look around or just do them myself.
03-08-2012, 09:23 PM
#4
What I found was the best is marking the originals and using the same specs. I.e. the shims and orientation of the striker. From there you can get a pretty good idea of where it should be. It take a whole lot of door closing to get it right. Just patience. I’ve done one on the first try and one took me two days. Just got too frustrated and called it.
One thing that helps though is it you get it close, and it closes, just leave it for a week and normally operate it. The tolerances will get looser from the stress that has been put on the rubber. Then loosen the bolts and position it more accurately. It should be easier to find the sweet spot that way.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Prep work is the best.
What I found was the best is marking the originals and using the same specs. I.e. the shims and orientation of the striker. From there you can get a pretty good idea of where it should be. It take a whole lot of door closing to get it right. Just patience. I’ve done one on the first try and one took me two days. Just got too frustrated and called it.
One thing that helps though is it you get it close, and it closes, just leave it for a week and normally operate it. The tolerances will get looser from the stress that has been put on the rubber. Then loosen the bolts and position it more accurately. It should be easier to find the sweet spot that way.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
03-08-2012, 11:43 PM
#5
(03-08-2012, 09:23 PM)w123love Prep work is the best.
What I found was the best is marking the originals and using the same specs. I.e. the shims and orientation of the striker. From there you can get a pretty good idea of where it should be. It take a whole lot of door closing to get it right. Just patience. I’ve done one on the first try and one took me two days. Just got too frustrated and called it.
One thing that helps though is it you get it close, and it closes, just leave it for a week and normally operate it. The tolerances will get looser from the stress that has been put on the rubber. Then loosen the bolts and position it more accurately. It should be easier to find the sweet spot that way.
Thanks for the pointers. Right now the doors when you close them they dont latch correctly and stick out, the passenger door is a nightmare to close.
Hopefully changing the strikers and aligning them with your method should help.
Purplecomputer
03-08-2012, 11:43 PM #5(03-08-2012, 09:23 PM)w123love Prep work is the best.
What I found was the best is marking the originals and using the same specs. I.e. the shims and orientation of the striker. From there you can get a pretty good idea of where it should be. It take a whole lot of door closing to get it right. Just patience. I’ve done one on the first try and one took me two days. Just got too frustrated and called it.
One thing that helps though is it you get it close, and it closes, just leave it for a week and normally operate it. The tolerances will get looser from the stress that has been put on the rubber. Then loosen the bolts and position it more accurately. It should be easier to find the sweet spot that way.
Thanks for the pointers. Right now the doors when you close them they dont latch correctly and stick out, the passenger door is a nightmare to close.
Hopefully changing the strikers and aligning them with your method should help.
03-09-2012, 03:12 AM
#6
pulled. Open door,tighten same two screws more. Trick is to allow striker to move,and self align.(striker on body not to loose or to tight,must stay in position when opening door). If door to loose ,retry push harder on door. Tighten remaining screws.
Be sure to lube striker and latch. Some times latch becomes to dirty,(stiff inside).Some times the latch just wears out,will not hold in tight position. GOOD LUCK.
10minutes each door,if 123 body. Install striker,mark old if wish,use same spacers, pull striker slightly outwards,lightly tighten two of the screws (upper front,lower back) other two loose. Hold out on handle,close door,use light pressure on door,keeping handle
pulled. Open door,tighten same two screws more. Trick is to allow striker to move,and self align.(striker on body not to loose or to tight,must stay in position when opening door). If door to loose ,retry push harder on door. Tighten remaining screws.
Be sure to lube striker and latch. Some times latch becomes to dirty,(stiff inside).Some times the latch just wears out,will not hold in tight position. GOOD LUCK.
03-09-2012, 08:23 AM
#7
(03-09-2012, 03:12 AM)Hercules 10minutes each door,if 123 body. Install striker,mark old if wish,use same spacers, pull striker slightly outwards,lightly tighten two of the screws (upper front,lower back) other two loose. Hold out on handle,close door,use light pressure on door,keeping handle
pulled. Open door,tighten same two screws more. Trick is to allow striker to move,and self align.(striker on body not to loose or to tight,must stay in position when opening door). If door to loose ,retry push harder on door. Tighten remaining screws.
Be sure to lube striker and latch. Some times latch becomes to dirty,(stiff inside).Some times the latch just wears out,will not hold in tight position. GOOD LUCK.
only ten minutes? The guy at the shop said two hours each door... I like your idea of having the striker align itself. Hope its not to hard
EDIT: So I tried your advice and i was able to do the passenger side in 5 minutes, super easy. My friend on the other hand was doing the driver side while i was working on the passenger side and he put the new striker on backwards! He ruined it so I had my boss overnight me a new striker for tuesday since he has free overnight shipping on amazon, so for now im driving around with a half open door that i cant lock :|
This post was last modified: 03-18-2012, 09:21 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
03-09-2012, 08:23 AM #7(03-09-2012, 03:12 AM)Hercules 10minutes each door,if 123 body. Install striker,mark old if wish,use same spacers, pull striker slightly outwards,lightly tighten two of the screws (upper front,lower back) other two loose. Hold out on handle,close door,use light pressure on door,keeping handle
pulled. Open door,tighten same two screws more. Trick is to allow striker to move,and self align.(striker on body not to loose or to tight,must stay in position when opening door). If door to loose ,retry push harder on door. Tighten remaining screws.
Be sure to lube striker and latch. Some times latch becomes to dirty,(stiff inside).Some times the latch just wears out,will not hold in tight position. GOOD LUCK.
only ten minutes? The guy at the shop said two hours each door... I like your idea of having the striker align itself. Hope its not to hard
EDIT: So I tried your advice and i was able to do the passenger side in 5 minutes, super easy. My friend on the other hand was doing the driver side while i was working on the passenger side and he put the new striker on backwards! He ruined it so I had my boss overnight me a new striker for tuesday since he has free overnight shipping on amazon, so for now im driving around with a half open door that i cant lock :|
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