how do you time this damn pump?
how do you time this damn pump?
I set the crankshaft to what I think is 24 ATDC
then turn the pump so that skip tooth matches the timing mark
then stick the pump on where the pump and block are marked.
then prime it all up and run the lines.
crank the starter and I got no joy, what gives?
I must be setting this crank wrong.
So as you are turning the motor clockwise you start to see marks on the balancer, right.
first you come to like 40, 30, 20, 10 ,0 , 10 , 20 , 24 is where I'm at
Is that right?
wtf
getting pretty tired of lifting that sob in and out of there and spilling diesel and oil all over the driveway.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I had the pump off my 617 and now I dunno if I am putting it back right.
I set the crankshaft to what I think is 24 ATDC
then turn the pump so that skip tooth matches the timing mark
then stick the pump on where the pump and block are marked.
then prime it all up and run the lines.
crank the starter and I got no joy, what gives?
I must be setting this crank wrong.
So as you are turning the motor clockwise you start to see marks on the balancer, right.
first you come to like 40, 30, 20, 10 ,0 , 10 , 20 , 24 is where I'm at
Is that right?
wtf
getting pretty tired of lifting that sob in and out of there and spilling diesel and oil all over the driveway.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat-mainme...screw.html
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Maybe crank is supposed to set to 15 ATDC?
http://mb.bolinko.org/15/warsztat-mainme...screw.html
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
When I turned the motor to start there was no smoke at all and no signs of life. But, fuel sure was pumping up to the injectors.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
so what's the deal then? Set it to 24 atdc? Did I measure that right on the crank?
When I turned the motor to start there was no smoke at all and no signs of life. But, fuel sure was pumping up to the injectors.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Even if fuel is going in on the wrong stroke, right?
I dunno, should I just keep trying to crank that air out?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
So, if there's some air in the system then none of the injectors will pop? I cracked some lines open at the injector side and diesel came out. Some bubbles too but I at least expected smoke.
Even if fuel is going in on the wrong stroke, right?
I dunno, should I just keep trying to crank that air out?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Well, now I have 2 batteries that can barely turn the motor. And this charger doesn't seem to be helping. I wonder if it's the 100ft extension cord?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
03-31-2012, 09:25 PM #10If your doing drip timing, you set the engine to 24-26 degrees BTDC not after. Might be your problem.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
Haha the fuel has to be superheated by compression to fire.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
04-01-2012, 01:50 PM #13Yes. ALWAYS Before Top Dead Center!
Haha the fuel has to be superheated by compression to fire.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit.
What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Maybe I have the motor cranked around wrong? I thought every fucking time you turned the motor around to 24 btdc that meant the front most cylinder was at 24btdc, right?
see post #10
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...om617.html
Still don't get why there is no smoke or even sputter. I had the battery charger on over night and it said it was charged up. Cranked the starter for like 30 sec and got nothing, oh but a worn out battery that can't turn shit again.
(04-01-2012, 01:50 PM)Captain America Yes. ALWAYS Before Top Dead Center!
Haha the fuel has to be superheated by compression to fire.
I always get confused by this shit. I thought some diesels were ATDC and the combustion chamber was already super fucking hot.
Then people talk about advancing or retarding timing and I get confused again.
Are they always saying advance as in like more advanced in relation to the rotation of the motor or
retarded as in like latter in the rotation.
IDFK I need shit explained to me like I am retard. Takes like 20 fucking times till it is known.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Well, I fucking stuck the pump on matching all the markings up at the 24btdc. I haven't even tried to drip the timing. I just thought if you matched that shit up at the marks when the motor was cranked to 24 btdc you could at least start the bitch.
I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit.
What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Maybe I have the motor cranked around wrong? I thought every fucking time you turned the motor around to 24 btdc that meant the front most cylinder was at 24btdc, right?
see post #10
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...om617.html
Still don't get why there is no smoke or even sputter. I had the battery charger on over night and it said it was charged up. Cranked the starter for like 30 sec and got nothing, oh but a worn out battery that can't turn shit again.
(04-01-2012, 01:50 PM)Captain America Yes. ALWAYS Before Top Dead Center!
Haha the fuel has to be superheated by compression to fire.
I always get confused by this shit. I thought some diesels were ATDC and the combustion chamber was already super fucking hot.
Then people talk about advancing or retarding timing and I get confused again.
Are they always saying advance as in like more advanced in relation to the rotation of the motor or
retarded as in like latter in the rotation.
IDFK I need shit explained to me like I am retard. Takes like 20 fucking times till it is known.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ed
yankneck696
04-01-2012, 02:36 PM #15Sounds to me like you are 180 degrees out. Pull the pump, spin the crank 1 full revolution (180 degrees in 4 STROKE ENGINE) & reinstall pump @24 degrees BEFORE top dead center. Bleed & fine tune as needed. Drink beer...
Ed
so I did all this drip shit.
15. Pump the hand pump until fuel is dripping out of the tube at a rate of 1 drop per second. Turn the IP towards or away from the engine to adjust the drip rate. Have a clock next to you to help time the drips.
when I pump the primer I first get a stream of fuel then it subsides to about 1 per sec. Prolly actually quite faster.
So, wtf is the timing near or what?
Maybe I should make a video of what I'm saying.
I still don't under stand this full revolution shit. The crank is turning 360 degrees while the cam turns 360x2? The balancer only has the markings at one spot not 2. As in it is marked off on a 360 scale not a 180 degree scale twice.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
ok,
so I did all this drip shit.
15. Pump the hand pump until fuel is dripping out of the tube at a rate of 1 drop per second. Turn the IP towards or away from the engine to adjust the drip rate. Have a clock next to you to help time the drips.
when I pump the primer I first get a stream of fuel then it subsides to about 1 per sec. Prolly actually quite faster.
So, wtf is the timing near or what?
Maybe I should make a video of what I'm saying.
I still don't under stand this full revolution shit. The crank is turning 360 degrees while the cam turns 360x2? The balancer only has the markings at one spot not 2. As in it is marked off on a 360 scale not a 180 degree scale twice.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I spaced on this before, you have an '85 engine right? Rack position sensor on the side of the pump? Find the lock port on the side of the pump, turn the pump until you see the little nub in the center of the hole. Then turn the engine to 15 degrees ATDC and install the pump.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
04-01-2012, 03:31 PM #17The pump spins at half the speed of the engine, so one engine turn is equal to half of a pump turn.
I spaced on this before, you have an '85 engine right? Rack position sensor on the side of the pump? Find the lock port on the side of the pump, turn the pump until you see the little nub in the center of the hole. Then turn the engine to 15 degrees ATDC and install the pump.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
I dunno. I thought I set the pump to 24 btdc this morning. And then I did the drip shit which looked to me like 1 drip/sec but this the first I've ever done that.
I just cannot believe there is not a puff of smoke at all. With the motor turning for like 30 sec there should have been quite enough fuel in the cylinders to see some of it burn up. Right? I dunno. I guess it's a rest for today and maybe I can try again tomorrow. This makes like 3 or better days I have fucked with it and prolly like 15-20hrs of getting nothing but frustration and shit.
Hopefully soon I will be learning and running my fucking car cause this shit is played out.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nah, I am using an older pump. I don't really know what the fuck to do right now. I guess I need to pull that bitch out again and look at the timing mark then make sure the motor is turned to 24 btdc and the cam lobes for cylinder are pointing upwards?
I dunno. I thought I set the pump to 24 btdc this morning. And then I did the drip shit which looked to me like 1 drip/sec but this the first I've ever done that.
I just cannot believe there is not a puff of smoke at all. With the motor turning for like 30 sec there should have been quite enough fuel in the cylinders to see some of it burn up. Right? I dunno. I guess it's a rest for today and maybe I can try again tomorrow. This makes like 3 or better days I have fucked with it and prolly like 15-20hrs of getting nothing but frustration and shit.
Hopefully soon I will be learning and running my fucking car cause this shit is played out.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ed
4 strokes.... Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Boom.... Intake (sucks air in **piston going down), Compression (as the piston comes up to 24 degrees before TDC, you are injecting fuel **piston comming up), expansion (TDC & after otherwise known as the "Power stroke" **piston going down AGAIN), Exhaust (exhaust valve opens & expells gasses **piston going up AGAIN)... So, it takes 2 full revolutions to account for 1 revolution of cam, IP & tachometer. I suspect you are timed 24 BTDC of the EXHAUST stroke.
yankneck696
04-01-2012, 04:28 PM #19TAKE THE PUMP OFF. ROTATE THE ENGINE 1 REVOLUTION FURTHER. INSTALL PUMP AT 24 DEG. PRIME. RUN. YOU ARE 180 DEG OUT OF TIME. THE ENGINE DOES 2 FULL REVOLUTIONS COMPARED TO TO 1 REVOLUTION OF THE CAM & INJECTION PUMP.
Ed
4 strokes.... Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Boom.... Intake (sucks air in **piston going down), Compression (as the piston comes up to 24 degrees before TDC, you are injecting fuel **piston comming up), expansion (TDC & after otherwise known as the "Power stroke" **piston going down AGAIN), Exhaust (exhaust valve opens & expells gasses **piston going up AGAIN)... So, it takes 2 full revolutions to account for 1 revolution of cam, IP & tachometer. I suspect you are timed 24 BTDC of the EXHAUST stroke.
Sorry like I said I am retard and am definitely not trying to start up any fights, just pissed about all the soot I am getting all in my nails and bloody knuckles et cet,
I will take the pump off and be sure the marks are all lined up.
Then I guess the drip timing thing will do some good. Right now I am injecting 24 degrees ABDC is what we think huh.
That's it for right now. We'll just be ready for the ah-ha and success tomorrow.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ok, like I said I am retard. And you may well be right. You say 1 revolution of the crank shaft is 180 or 360 degrees? The thing I'm saying is that the crankshaft markings are only on there in one place out of 360 degrees. So how in the fuck do I turn 180 degrees to some place were there is no marks at all?
Sorry like I said I am retard and am definitely not trying to start up any fights, just pissed about all the soot I am getting all in my nails and bloody knuckles et cet,
I will take the pump off and be sure the marks are all lined up.
Then I guess the drip timing thing will do some good. Right now I am injecting 24 degrees ABDC is what we think huh.
That's it for right now. We'll just be ready for the ah-ha and success tomorrow.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Ed
PM sent
yankneck696
04-01-2012, 05:51 PM #21OK, 1 full crankshaft rotation is 180 degrees of the engine revolution. 2 full rotations of the crankshaft equals 360 degrees of (cam/IP/tach) a revolution. You (I suspect) are 1 rotation(180 degrees of a full revolution) off & injecting during the exhaust upstroke. No worky like that... You must be on the Compression upstroke.
Ed
PM sent
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-01-2012, 11:29 PM #22You need to open up the oil filler to check whether #1 piston is on compression or exhaust stroke, when both of the lobes on the cam for #1 piston are "up", as in not pressing down on the valves, it is on the compression stroke. Then adjust to whatever degrees before tdc you want, (I adjusted mine to 26* btdc, as suggested by Hercules) and you should be good to go. You also have to remove that little thing from the first pump element or whatever, and wire the throttle to wide open and you should be good to go
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
And this morning ran down the battery again without even a sputter.
I do not fucking get what seems to be wrong.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Well, I swear I am doing it all right but it still won't fire. At least I can smell fuel, I think. I looked at the fucking cam lobes and they were up. Set the crankshaft at the 24 BTDC mark and then aligned the timing markings on the pump and matched the pump to the block.
And this morning ran down the battery again without even a sputter.
I do not fucking get what seems to be wrong.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
4 strokes engine means 2 full turns of the crank to back at a compression stroke
180* out is one full turn of the crank or 360deg! one stroke = 2 full 360deg turns confusing right?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-02-2012, 11:36 AM #25How fast is it cranking? You may want to charge both battery and use some jumper cables and use both battery's at the same time! I have an air leak on my euro wagon and it wont start unless I pump the primer pump while I'm cranking it over!
4 strokes engine means 2 full turns of the crank to back at a compression stroke
180* out is one full turn of the crank or 360deg! one stroke = 2 full 360deg turns confusing right?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-02-2012, 12:16 PM #27Good to hear it's running
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Uponaplane
04-03-2012, 07:24 PM #29nice bro glad to hear you got it...that 15 hours with no progress shit is infuriating haha.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
04-03-2012, 09:22 PM #30Haha I'm glad it was you not me </kidding!> --really, I feel your pain. I've just spent three hours trying to get the driver's side console electric window switch back together after cleaning a 27-year accumulation of grime out. No matter how I assemble it, it always works flawlessly on both the front and rear windows when it's out of the console, but the rear window fails to open once I put the switch, ashtray, and console all back together. No matter what combination of ball bearings, copper contacts, orientation of the copper contacts, and rocker I use. I just gave up for the night after about the fiftieth try. A miniature version of your same frustration drama.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
Well now I need to fix the exhaust. My turn down just ripped off. So the pipe is just cradled by my last few feet of rusty steel wire right by the diff.
All that hot air needs to get further back.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
My car really only gets attention to things that are relatively critical to operation and safety. Or things that will cause no frustration.
Well now I need to fix the exhaust. My turn down just ripped off. So the pipe is just cradled by my last few feet of rusty steel wire right by the diff.
All that hot air needs to get further back.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-04-2012, 03:38 PM #32Is it straight piped?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-04-2012, 06:19 PM #34Haha, when I straight piped mine the other day I just bought some 2.5" and cut the mufflers out, and then slid it over the missing sections and welded it up. It turned out pretty good I think
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Mine is like literally straight. after the downpipe there is a connector with 2 bolts. That's where I cut off the resonator, bends, and muffler and then inserted 4 ft pipe. Had a turn down but like I said it's gone. I think though it might be even cooler without that turn. Just need to get those hot gasses back a little more. As it is now they are pointing right at that tub where the spare tire is. Pretty soon it will melt that under coating. Need to get on this repair and find a better way to hang the whole rig.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-04-2012, 10:46 PM #36Yeah I don't understand why there are so many turns and stuff there in the first place. If I could find some pipe long enough I might consider doing the same thing, even just keeping the stock diameter. It definitely runs much better now though. The turn down tip mostly just helps with sound and smoke I think, I've read without it the back of the car can get all sooty and stuff, but in your case you might need one. Or maybe just make the pipe longer so it sticks all the way out the back haha
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I wish i had a shorty exhaust I could switch on for off roading. A bunch of gravel is what pulled the old rig apart. Had a dude in the back seat, like 2-300lbs tools in the trunk and trimmed rear springs.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I saw some pipe on fleabay in either 4ft or 5ft for pretty cheap. That's where I got my 4ft piece. But I think you'd need like 6ft+ to make it straight all the way to the bumper.
I wish i had a shorty exhaust I could switch on for off roading. A bunch of gravel is what pulled the old rig apart. Had a dude in the back seat, like 2-300lbs tools in the trunk and trimmed rear springs.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-05-2012, 08:47 AM #38I ran a side exit on my car, it was great
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
04-09-2012, 02:47 AM #39holy shat. that timing was getting crazy! lol Glad you got it dude. your not retarded ;-)
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(04-01-2012, 01:50 PM)Captain America Yes. ALWAYS Before Top Dead Center!
Haha the fuel has to be superheated by compression to fire.
A diesel doesn't fire by compressing fuel, it fires by injecting fuel into the hot air! thats why its ATDC when youre doing it by locking the pump
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