what parts will i need for front suspension?
what parts will i need for front suspension?
04-01-2012, 06:19 PM
#1
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
Purplecomputer
04-01-2012, 06:19 PM #1Hey guys
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
04-04-2012, 10:45 AM
#2
Then if your tie rods are ok you can re-use them. Also the center link if it is ok you can re-use. If the boots are ripped you should just replace the ends or the whole tie rod/center link.
I think that is everything... On my phone so typing is kinda weird. Autohausaz will tell you how many of each item you need so you can always go there and put in your make/model and it will tell you how many to buy.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
'87 300D Turbo "Roxanne" - #22 head - 400E brakes - EGR Delete - 17" Staggered AMG 5 spoke rims from CLK500 - 5 Spd manual
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Upper control arms (left & right), 2 lower ball joints, bushings for the sway bar( 2pairs iirc, you need 4pieces total) , strut rod bushings (2 kits) , strut rod mounts (2) , 1 steering dampener. For the lower control arms get the bushings for a w126. You will need two if these.
Then if your tie rods are ok you can re-use them. Also the center link if it is ok you can re-use. If the boots are ripped you should just replace the ends or the whole tie rod/center link.
I think that is everything... On my phone so typing is kinda weird. Autohausaz will tell you how many of each item you need so you can always go there and put in your make/model and it will tell you how many to buy.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
'87 300D Turbo "Roxanne" - #22 head - 400E brakes - EGR Delete - 17" Staggered AMG 5 spoke rims from CLK500 - 5 Spd manual
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
04-04-2012, 10:50 AM
#3
(04-04-2012, 10:45 AM)capflya Upper control arms (left & right), 2 lower ball joints, bushings for the sway bar( 2pairs iirc, you need 4pieces total) , strut rod bushings (2 kits) , strut rod mounts (2) , 1 steering dampener. For the lower control arms get the bushings for a w126. You will need two if these.
Then if your tie rods are ok you can re-use them. Also the center link if it is ok you can re-use. If the boots are ripped you should just replace the ends or the whole tie rod/center link.
I think that is everything... On my phone so typing is kinda weird. Autohausaz will tell you how many of each item you need so you can always go there and put in your make/model and it will tell you how many to buy.
woah thats alot of parts!
ill start putting everything in the basket and see how much it adds up to
Purplecomputer
04-04-2012, 10:50 AM #3(04-04-2012, 10:45 AM)capflya Upper control arms (left & right), 2 lower ball joints, bushings for the sway bar( 2pairs iirc, you need 4pieces total) , strut rod bushings (2 kits) , strut rod mounts (2) , 1 steering dampener. For the lower control arms get the bushings for a w126. You will need two if these.
Then if your tie rods are ok you can re-use them. Also the center link if it is ok you can re-use. If the boots are ripped you should just replace the ends or the whole tie rod/center link.
I think that is everything... On my phone so typing is kinda weird. Autohausaz will tell you how many of each item you need so you can always go there and put in your make/model and it will tell you how many to buy.
woah thats alot of parts!
ill start putting everything in the basket and see how much it adds up to
04-04-2012, 03:10 PM
#4
Pm me if you don't have a local shop to press them in for a "reasonable" rate. It only takes about 15 to remove the old ball joints and press the new ones in, and that is for both sides. Shops charging an hour labor for 15min of work isn't right IMO.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
'87 300D Turbo "Roxanne" - #22 head - 400E brakes - EGR Delete - 17" Staggered AMG 5 spoke rims from CLK500 - 5 Spd manual
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
It ain't cheap! Haha... If you need somebody to press in the ball joints let me know. I got the tool to press them in when I did mine and I've done a few pairs for some buddies of mine here in town. All the shops wanted to charge about $120 to press them in so I just bought the tool instead.
Pm me if you don't have a local shop to press them in for a "reasonable" rate. It only takes about 15 to remove the old ball joints and press the new ones in, and that is for both sides. Shops charging an hour labor for 15min of work isn't right IMO.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
'87 300D Turbo "Roxanne" - #22 head - 400E brakes - EGR Delete - 17" Staggered AMG 5 spoke rims from CLK500 - 5 Spd manual
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
04-04-2012, 04:23 PM
#5
(04-01-2012, 06:19 PM)Purplecomputer Hey guys
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
Just an FYI, be aware of these guys return policy. If you get the wrong part, you will have to ship it back your cost, and buy another one, and god forbid you want to talk to someone, it aint gonna happen. They have a lot of stuff, but id go in eyes wide open, there are plenty of other companies out there that have the same stuff and ten times better service.
I almost always order stuff from buymbparts.biz, or autohausaz, or fastlane over on peachparts.
these three companies have excellent customer service
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-01-2012, 06:19 PM)Purplecomputer Hey guys
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
Just an FYI, be aware of these guys return policy. If you get the wrong part, you will have to ship it back your cost, and buy another one, and god forbid you want to talk to someone, it aint gonna happen. They have a lot of stuff, but id go in eyes wide open, there are plenty of other companies out there that have the same stuff and ten times better service.
I almost always order stuff from buymbparts.biz, or autohausaz, or fastlane over on peachparts.
these three companies have excellent customer service
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-04-2012, 09:02 PM
#6
I bought everything from fastlane, see my car thread for a total list if you like
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
04-04-2012, 09:02 PM #6If you're going to do all that, replace the front shocks too. Bilstein HD's FTW
I bought everything from fastlane, see my car thread for a total list if you like
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
04-06-2012, 03:32 PM
#7
Robert_UAH
04-06-2012, 03:32 PM #7Might be a dumb question but I am just getting into these car, why do you need to replace the whole upper A-arm?
04-06-2012, 03:38 PM
#8
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
04-06-2012, 03:38 PM #8They don't sell UCA bushings or upper ball joints, it comes as one whole upper control arm. And they're only 45 a piece or so so its not outrageous
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
04-08-2012, 12:09 PM
#9
(04-04-2012, 04:23 PM)dropnosky(04-01-2012, 06:19 PM)Purplecomputer Hey guys
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
Just an FYI, be aware of these guys return policy. If you get the wrong part, you will have to ship it back your cost, and buy another one, and god forbid you want to talk to someone, it aint gonna happen. They have a lot of stuff, but id go in eyes wide open, there are plenty of other companies out there that have the same stuff and ten times better service.
I almost always order stuff from buymbparts.biz, or autohausaz, or fastlane over on peachparts.
these three companies have excellent customer service
I had read the thread on your expeiricen with the rear axels. I did buy all my rear suspension parts from them and not a single problem but it is something to keep in mind.
(04-04-2012, 09:02 PM)led-panzer If you're going to do all that, replace the front shocks too. Bilstein HD's FTW
I bought everything from fastlane, see my car thread for a total list if you like
I did replace all four shocks about 6 months ago, but instead of bilstein i used KYB. I was new to the car and i thought these were good. I guess you learn everything the hard way. I am very tempted though to just buy the HD shocks
This post was last modified: 04-08-2012, 12:10 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
04-08-2012, 12:09 PM #9(04-04-2012, 04:23 PM)dropnosky(04-01-2012, 06:19 PM)Purplecomputer Hey guys
I want to redo the front suspension and im not sure exactly what ill need.
I know ill need the control arms and ball joints (how many btw?)
steering dampeners
what else am i missing?
i plan to order everything from parts geek.
Just an FYI, be aware of these guys return policy. If you get the wrong part, you will have to ship it back your cost, and buy another one, and god forbid you want to talk to someone, it aint gonna happen. They have a lot of stuff, but id go in eyes wide open, there are plenty of other companies out there that have the same stuff and ten times better service.
I almost always order stuff from buymbparts.biz, or autohausaz, or fastlane over on peachparts.
these three companies have excellent customer service
I had read the thread on your expeiricen with the rear axels. I did buy all my rear suspension parts from them and not a single problem but it is something to keep in mind.
(04-04-2012, 09:02 PM)led-panzer If you're going to do all that, replace the front shocks too. Bilstein HD's FTW
I bought everything from fastlane, see my car thread for a total list if you like
I did replace all four shocks about 6 months ago, but instead of bilstein i used KYB. I was new to the car and i thought these were good. I guess you learn everything the hard way. I am very tempted though to just buy the HD shocks
04-20-2012, 01:23 PM
#10
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-20-2012, 01:23 PM #10Are the sway bar bushings different? From what I can tell there's an inner and outer? My dad just went to get his car aligned and they said they couldn't do it because the driver's side ball joints were shot, so I'm guessing we need an inner/outer sway bar bushing/s, upper control arm, and a lower ball joint? They said the passenger side looked really good, which means the PO was probably feeling cheap and only got one side worked on, which would explain why the car is pulling way to the left
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
05-19-2012, 11:44 AM
#11
)So the front suspension is all weak, wobbly, every time I go over bumps The car jolts either to the left or right, not to mention It sounds like the whole car is going to fall apart
Attached Files
Image(s)Purplecomputer
05-19-2012, 11:44 AM #11Is all of this correct? I drive about 200 miles a day doing service calls for my job (diesel is paid for by the boss )
So the front suspension is all weak, wobbly, every time I go over bumps The car jolts either to the left or right, not to mention It sounds like the whole car is going to fall apart
Attached Files
Image(s)
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