STD Tuning Engine Intermittent overheating

Intermittent overheating

Intermittent overheating

 
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sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-30-2012, 01:18 PM #1
Just like the title says, intermittent overheating 617 turbo.

The symptoms:
-overheats when accelerating
-overheats when decelerating
-overheats at stops
-driving at a constant speed it will randomly overheat and then cool off, the needle moving from about 85-90* up to 100*
-turning the heater on full blast doesn't seem to help
-some days the car overheats and some it doesn't, and so far it seems weather conditions aren't affecting it because it can be cold and overheating one day and then hot and running fine the next
-also lately the engine seems to be really shaky at idle, well not too bad but it shakes rhythmically and then gets the whole car shaking (driver side motor mount new, passenger side isn't new but definitely not bad)

This overheating thing is starting to get really annoying.

Also, not sure if it matters or not but I think the cooling system is probably about 85% water, since I after flushing the system I had a hose break and dump most of the coolant, and then it got refilled with water since I didn't have any anti-freeze with me

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-30-2012, 01:18 PM #1

Just like the title says, intermittent overheating 617 turbo.

The symptoms:
-overheats when accelerating
-overheats when decelerating
-overheats at stops
-driving at a constant speed it will randomly overheat and then cool off, the needle moving from about 85-90* up to 100*
-turning the heater on full blast doesn't seem to help
-some days the car overheats and some it doesn't, and so far it seems weather conditions aren't affecting it because it can be cold and overheating one day and then hot and running fine the next
-also lately the engine seems to be really shaky at idle, well not too bad but it shakes rhythmically and then gets the whole car shaking (driver side motor mount new, passenger side isn't new but definitely not bad)

This overheating thing is starting to get really annoying.

Also, not sure if it matters or not but I think the cooling system is probably about 85% water, since I after flushing the system I had a hose break and dump most of the coolant, and then it got refilled with water since I didn't have any anti-freeze with me


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
04-30-2012, 01:33 PM #2
Could it be a faulty gauge? mine bounces around but the engine is right at temp

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-30-2012, 01:33 PM #2

Could it be a faulty gauge? mine bounces around but the engine is right at temp


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

Hercules
GT2559V

219
04-30-2012, 01:54 PM #3
If the gauge flickers up or down (does not move smoothly) suspect faulty gauge. Try this , when gauge reads high,slap the top of dash near cluster briskly,if temp.reading jumps down,then most likely gauge problem. DO check connector pins for tightness,also ck case screws at speedometer for tightness,(electrical conn. on base of). One last thing ,ck temp. sender conn.
Good luck.
Hercules
04-30-2012, 01:54 PM #3

If the gauge flickers up or down (does not move smoothly) suspect faulty gauge. Try this , when gauge reads high,slap the top of dash near cluster briskly,if temp.reading jumps down,then most likely gauge problem. DO check connector pins for tightness,also ck case screws at speedometer for tightness,(electrical conn. on base of). One last thing ,ck temp. sender conn.
Good luck.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-30-2012, 04:31 PM #4
Yeah I'm thinking now that it may be the gauge, because sometimes it moves smoothly and sometimes jumps around. The temp sender is less than a year old so I don't think that's the problem. I'll try swapping in another gauge I guess and see if the problem persists

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-30-2012, 04:31 PM #4

Yeah I'm thinking now that it may be the gauge, because sometimes it moves smoothly and sometimes jumps around. The temp sender is less than a year old so I don't think that's the problem. I'll try swapping in another gauge I guess and see if the problem persists


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
04-30-2012, 10:39 PM #5
It usually a grounding issue that causes it

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-30-2012, 10:39 PM #5

It usually a grounding issue that causes it


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
05-01-2012, 12:40 PM #6
(04-30-2012, 10:39 PM)willbhere4u It usually a grounding issue that causes it

I thought that might be the case with with my fuel gauge because its a little jumpy so I added an extra ground to the cluster, didn't seem to help/do much, other than the still works even if its power cable is the only thing plugged in

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-01-2012, 12:40 PM #6

(04-30-2012, 10:39 PM)willbhere4u It usually a grounding issue that causes it

I thought that might be the case with with my fuel gauge because its a little jumpy so I added an extra ground to the cluster, didn't seem to help/do much, other than the still works even if its power cable is the only thing plugged in


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
05-02-2012, 10:28 AM #7
You might check the engine ground. Also there are like 30 brown ground wires going to one bolt under the cluster I would take them apart and clean them up and reinstall it

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-02-2012, 10:28 AM #7

You might check the engine ground. Also there are like 30 brown ground wires going to one bolt under the cluster I would take them apart and clean them up and reinstall it


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

yankneck696
Build it so strong & blow it up good !!!

395
05-02-2012, 05:33 PM #8
Checking, cleaning & di-electric greasing all of your grounds & connections should solve it. You may want someone in the car while you shake the hell out of your engine harness.

Another possibility is a water pump impellor that got sheared off by starting the engine in sub-zero conditions without the proper antifreeze/water mixture...... Please don't ask....

Ed
yankneck696
05-02-2012, 05:33 PM #8

Checking, cleaning & di-electric greasing all of your grounds & connections should solve it. You may want someone in the car while you shake the hell out of your engine harness.

Another possibility is a water pump impellor that got sheared off by starting the engine in sub-zero conditions without the proper antifreeze/water mixture...... Please don't ask....

Ed

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
05-03-2012, 03:44 AM #9
I am leaning more towards electrical issue more than water pump impellor at this point, seeing as how it doesn't get quite that cold here.

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-03-2012, 03:44 AM #9

I am leaning more towards electrical issue more than water pump impellor at this point, seeing as how it doesn't get quite that cold here.


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

plurkje
turbodiesel

33
05-09-2012, 04:24 PM #10
Does the engine built up pressure in coolant system? Feel the big hoses, do they get hard? When you release the fillercap is there still pressure after a night stand still? If all are; Yep.
Head gasket is blown.
plurkje
05-09-2012, 04:24 PM #10

Does the engine built up pressure in coolant system? Feel the big hoses, do they get hard? When you release the fillercap is there still pressure after a night stand still? If all are; Yep.
Head gasket is blown.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
05-09-2012, 05:48 PM #11
The only pressure is steam pressure, and there is very little to none at all. I'm pretty sure its an electrical issue with the gauge or the sensor, since it hasn't been doing it at all lately, and its been a lot warmer out

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-09-2012, 05:48 PM #11

The only pressure is steam pressure, and there is very little to none at all. I'm pretty sure its an electrical issue with the gauge or the sensor, since it hasn't been doing it at all lately, and its been a lot warmer out


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

plurkje
turbodiesel

33
05-11-2012, 03:08 PM #12
Check the connector at the sensor first, it's behind the injector lines. Have someone to wobble the wire while you watch the gauge.
plurkje
05-11-2012, 03:08 PM #12

Check the connector at the sensor first, it's behind the injector lines. Have someone to wobble the wire while you watch the gauge.

 
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