1984 300td (drift project)
1984 300td (drift project)
I saw this 1984 300td in a impound lot earlier this year. It didn't run, it didn't have a back window and busted ignition cylinder. Well let's just say i got the car because i was the only one who would bid on it.
Some may not like what I have done. But keep in mind I got it to race,drift whatever.
I didn't buy this car to restore it or fix it up it was bought to use for drifting first and every thing else second. I know there are some different parts that could be used for this project but i like to use what I have on hand to keep cost down.
Here is what I started with.
Theturbodave
05-15-2012, 06:25 AM #1Hello I'm Turbodave.
I saw this 1984 300td in a impound lot earlier this year. It didn't run, it didn't have a back window and busted ignition cylinder. Well let's just say i got the car because i was the only one who would bid on it.
Some may not like what I have done. But keep in mind I got it to race,drift whatever.
I didn't buy this car to restore it or fix it up it was bought to use for drifting first and every thing else second. I know there are some different parts that could be used for this project but i like to use what I have on hand to keep cost down.
Here is what I started with.
I did a base line run on dyno every thing stock it did have a exhaust leak at flex pipe but not bad. It did 81.5 hp and 159 tq automatic to the wheels bone stock w/factory exhaust and air cleaner box.
I then removed exhaust from down pipe back, put 3"cold air intake to k&n filter, deleted egr, adjusted throttle linkage to make sure going wot and deleted all vacuum lines from injector pump it did 101 hp and 197 tq to the tire.
I remove bumpers and changed to some wheels I had. I cut factory coil springs to lower it.(I changed this out later)
I picked up a extra injector pump for $200 at a junk yard.
I'm doing a turbo upgrade (I find out later this turbo has wayyyyy to much lag) he351 Dodge Cummings turbo(thanks led-panzer for correct number and yr).
While i was doing the turbo upgrade i did some intake manifold upgrading also.
Time for more dyno runs before getting to the fuel system.
Theturbodave
05-15-2012, 10:31 PM #2Sorry pics not in order.
I did a base line run on dyno every thing stock it did have a exhaust leak at flex pipe but not bad. It did 81.5 hp and 159 tq automatic to the wheels bone stock w/factory exhaust and air cleaner box.
I then removed exhaust from down pipe back, put 3"cold air intake to k&n filter, deleted egr, adjusted throttle linkage to make sure going wot and deleted all vacuum lines from injector pump it did 101 hp and 197 tq to the tire.
I remove bumpers and changed to some wheels I had. I cut factory coil springs to lower it.(I changed this out later)
I picked up a extra injector pump for $200 at a junk yard.
I'm doing a turbo upgrade (I find out later this turbo has wayyyyy to much lag) he351 Dodge Cummings turbo(thanks led-panzer for correct number and yr).
While i was doing the turbo upgrade i did some intake manifold upgrading also.
Time for more dyno runs before getting to the fuel system.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
05-16-2012, 02:26 PM #3nice work man! welcome to the forum... I dont think youll hear anybodu complaining about modifying the car here... there are other places for restoration minded people...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-16-2012, 03:43 PM #4Cool stuff keep us posted!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Drift modified,
Coil overs (JIC rear coil overs w10k spring on custom made mounts )
Modified knuckles,
Welded diff,
Diesel om617engine 5cyl with twin compound turbos (primary turbo t3 50trim .61 a/r custom built, secondary turbo t4 57trim .96 a/r),
Will foot brake to 25psi. Instant boost No turbo lag.
Modified injector pump (rack limiter removed, 5800rev limited ect)
larger delivery valve,
larger injectors.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
High pressure fuel pump
4in exhaust system w/5in tip.
Makes 35 to 40psi.300hp/400tq.( Cut and modified DV's. Not idle happy, you can street drive it but very rough idle and OMG Smoke out the cars behind you.)
30ish on stock DV's (125hp260tq)
23mpg on med DV's (200hp300tq)
Takes about 20mins to change out Delivery Valves in injector pump.
Cold A/C, and has power steering.
Has full interior.
Daily driven.
Asking $5000 obo trades okay.
More here at the bottom of page
http://www.theturbodave.com/The_Build_page.php
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/2984019234.html
-Brian
1983 300TD
1982 240D
1981 280TE
This is freakin' sweet Dave!!!! We need more details on all of this stuff.... (and please don't sell it, keep building it!)
Drift modified,
Coil overs (JIC rear coil overs w10k spring on custom made mounts )
Modified knuckles,
Welded diff,
Diesel om617engine 5cyl with twin compound turbos (primary turbo t3 50trim .61 a/r custom built, secondary turbo t4 57trim .96 a/r),
Will foot brake to 25psi. Instant boost No turbo lag.
Modified injector pump (rack limiter removed, 5800rev limited ect)
larger delivery valve,
larger injectors.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
High pressure fuel pump
4in exhaust system w/5in tip.
Makes 35 to 40psi.300hp/400tq.( Cut and modified DV's. Not idle happy, you can street drive it but very rough idle and OMG Smoke out the cars behind you.)
30ish on stock DV's (125hp260tq)
23mpg on med DV's (200hp300tq)
Takes about 20mins to change out Delivery Valves in injector pump.
Cold A/C, and has power steering.
Has full interior.
Daily driven.
Asking $5000 obo trades okay.
More here at the bottom of page
http://www.theturbodave.com/The_Build_page.php
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/2984019234.html
-Brian
1983 300TD
1982 240D
1981 280TE
What turbos do you use for your compound setup?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
05-16-2012, 08:27 PM #6That holset is an HE351, comes on the 04.5 to 07 cummins. Same compressor as an HX40.
What turbos do you use for your compound setup?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
05-16-2012, 08:49 PM #7wow! thats awesome.
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
THE BAD NEWS (like you could have problems when you are learning/messing with the injector pump's internal parts)
I put the the pump back on hook everything up hit the starter it cranked right up and instantly went to 5800rpm I snatched the fuel supply line to injector pump off (still at 5800rpm)and then went to snatch cold air intake pipe off wouldn't come off ,grabbed a nut drive to loosen clamp and stuck my magnetic bolt holder on inlet of turbo and it died. I would say atleast a 1 to 2 min at 5800. I'm looking around for what went wrong what the hell did I do wrong. Then I see it ,no spring on bottom throttle arm and linkage was bound up.
So I fixed that went to crank it sounds like no compression on atleast two cylinders. I'm at this point calling myself a dumba## and thinking it bent the valves from revving so high for that long. I just had to walk away for a while I pulled the valve cover to check for bent valves. I pulled cover and checked valve lash haaaa there is none, All of the lash adjusters had unscrewed hold almost all the valves open. I adjusted every one back to spec and started the wagon it runs better now than when I got it.
At this point I love this car.
This time on the dyno it has way to much fuel for factory turbo it made 125hp and 240tq waste gate held shut ?on how much boost , it looses power and tq bad on top end 4000rpm still rolling smoke. I'm turning it to 5700rpms. At this point I know it needs more airflow.
I put holset turbo on and i did intake manifold and just ran a 4" downpipe with no exhaust. This turbo is to big for a auto can't brake boost it and it creeps to 22psi. Dyno 145hp and 220tq hits 15psi at like 4600 rpm and 22 at 5600 and it hasn't got enought fuel from around 3600 and up. I know I need some fuel on the mid to top end and a little bit smaller turbo.
I have gone of the deep end now UPGRADES.
I got another set of injectors from junk yark and ordered new injector nozzles ( I think they were dnosd303 or 306) I will look for my paper work and get number. I put a 320lph (aftermarket mustang) fuel pump on deleted factory fuel pressure regulator and mechanical pump and put a adjustable fuel regulator w/ boost/vac line on and ran new fuel lines. I also did DV mod not full cut but milled lip to a tapper. Now this thing got some fuel.
I think the key is getting rid of factory pump and regulator. You can now run what ever fuel pressure you want and it increases fuel pressure with the boost level. I run 25/28 psi at idle and at 18 psi it makes 50psi.
I had a stage 2 turbo form a Buick Grand National that I had upgraded for 62-1 turbo and know it was a good one but it had the 3bolt mounting flange and .90 a/r exhaust. I milled a Garrett T3 exhaust housing with a .60 a/r to fit the 58mm exducer wheel and tappered mill the inlet houseing to fit a 3 1/2 inlet pipe. I tig welded a 3" v-band on exhaust housing for the down pipe. I drilled out the exhaust manifold to weld a 38mm wastegate. I ran wastegate dump back into the down pipe. I ran 3" down to 4" exhaust all the way out the back by rear axle.
Lets just say this turbo is the sh#t it will foot brake to what ever waste gate is. I set waste gate at 18psi. This turbo is bad as#. Instant boost you don't have to brake boost to spin the tires just nail it and instant cotton rolling from the tire 1st and 2nd gear Tries to blow through 3rd gear.
I will upload more pictures one these mods.
Theturbodave
05-16-2012, 09:49 PM #8I'm trying to remember the order i did everything ???. I think I did the rack limiter delete, increased the rpm limit speed and max the what was it called alda (more fuel at take off). I can tell you this every injector pump is different (like someone on this form said the adjustment need to be done in small fine adjustment and telling someone to turn this 2turns doesn't mean it will work on all pumps, it is a 50 50.) I did one adjustment at a time and them tryed it out first before going to another.
THE BAD NEWS (like you could have problems when you are learning/messing with the injector pump's internal parts)
I put the the pump back on hook everything up hit the starter it cranked right up and instantly went to 5800rpm I snatched the fuel supply line to injector pump off (still at 5800rpm)and then went to snatch cold air intake pipe off wouldn't come off ,grabbed a nut drive to loosen clamp and stuck my magnetic bolt holder on inlet of turbo and it died. I would say atleast a 1 to 2 min at 5800. I'm looking around for what went wrong what the hell did I do wrong. Then I see it ,no spring on bottom throttle arm and linkage was bound up.
So I fixed that went to crank it sounds like no compression on atleast two cylinders. I'm at this point calling myself a dumba## and thinking it bent the valves from revving so high for that long. I just had to walk away for a while I pulled the valve cover to check for bent valves. I pulled cover and checked valve lash haaaa there is none, All of the lash adjusters had unscrewed hold almost all the valves open. I adjusted every one back to spec and started the wagon it runs better now than when I got it.
At this point I love this car.
This time on the dyno it has way to much fuel for factory turbo it made 125hp and 240tq waste gate held shut ?on how much boost , it looses power and tq bad on top end 4000rpm still rolling smoke. I'm turning it to 5700rpms. At this point I know it needs more airflow.
I put holset turbo on and i did intake manifold and just ran a 4" downpipe with no exhaust. This turbo is to big for a auto can't brake boost it and it creeps to 22psi. Dyno 145hp and 220tq hits 15psi at like 4600 rpm and 22 at 5600 and it hasn't got enought fuel from around 3600 and up. I know I need some fuel on the mid to top end and a little bit smaller turbo.
I have gone of the deep end now UPGRADES.
I got another set of injectors from junk yark and ordered new injector nozzles ( I think they were dnosd303 or 306) I will look for my paper work and get number. I put a 320lph (aftermarket mustang) fuel pump on deleted factory fuel pressure regulator and mechanical pump and put a adjustable fuel regulator w/ boost/vac line on and ran new fuel lines. I also did DV mod not full cut but milled lip to a tapper. Now this thing got some fuel.
I think the key is getting rid of factory pump and regulator. You can now run what ever fuel pressure you want and it increases fuel pressure with the boost level. I run 25/28 psi at idle and at 18 psi it makes 50psi.
I had a stage 2 turbo form a Buick Grand National that I had upgraded for 62-1 turbo and know it was a good one but it had the 3bolt mounting flange and .90 a/r exhaust. I milled a Garrett T3 exhaust housing with a .60 a/r to fit the 58mm exducer wheel and tappered mill the inlet houseing to fit a 3 1/2 inlet pipe. I tig welded a 3" v-band on exhaust housing for the down pipe. I drilled out the exhaust manifold to weld a 38mm wastegate. I ran wastegate dump back into the down pipe. I ran 3" down to 4" exhaust all the way out the back by rear axle.
Lets just say this turbo is the sh#t it will foot brake to what ever waste gate is. I set waste gate at 18psi. This turbo is bad as#. Instant boost you don't have to brake boost to spin the tires just nail it and instant cotton rolling from the tire 1st and 2nd gear Tries to blow through 3rd gear.
I will upload more pictures one these mods.
I was thinking I could build an intercooler that looks like the grill and remove the factory one, but I don't think it will look right not being on the hood when you open it. I also thought of moving radiator to rear floor board and put intercooler were radiator was.
any help would be COOL.
Theturbodave
05-16-2012, 11:42 PM #9WERE DO YOU PUT AN INTERCOOLER ON THESE CARS. There is no room anywere and I'm not mounting outside the body(just not me).
I was thinking I could build an intercooler that looks like the grill and remove the factory one, but I don't think it will look right not being on the hood when you open it. I also thought of moving radiator to rear floor board and put intercooler were radiator was.
any help would be COOL.
The best fitting intercooler are the Air/Water type. If your not using your SLS pump, then you can remove the reservoir and put in an A/W intercooler in that area like this.
Then put the intercooler radiator in front of the engine's radiator.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
05-17-2012, 12:43 AM #10First off, welcome to this forum. I saw your craigslist ad and link to your build, and was hoping to get more details on this wagon. Thanks for sharing your info!
The best fitting intercooler are the Air/Water type. If your not using your SLS pump, then you can remove the reservoir and put in an A/W intercooler in that area like this.
Then put the intercooler radiator in front of the engine's radiator.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
have done for intercooler,usually small units if inside. Water inj.is another option,pre-turbo should work well,cools incoming air plus allows air in turbo to be further compressed . Volvo states the compressor wheel should last 200 thousand miles.
Question: What is the Adj. fuel regulator w/boost/vac line from?
Looking real good! Don"t think there would be enough air flow if radiator on rear floor board,plus mud,dirt,road stuff. There are posts on here what others
have done for intercooler,usually small units if inside. Water inj.is another option,pre-turbo should work well,cools incoming air plus allows air in turbo to be further compressed . Volvo states the compressor wheel should last 200 thousand miles.
Question: What is the Adj. fuel regulator w/boost/vac line from?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-17-2012, 02:01 AM #12Hells yea man
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-17-2012, 02:25 AM #13Awesome, I want my car to drift one day, even if its just to show people the potential that diesel Mercedes like these have
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(05-16-2012, 02:26 PM)SurfRodder nice work man! welcome to the forum... I dont think youll hear anybodu complaining about modifying the car here... there are other places for restoration minded people...
Incorrect. Those are not the stock tires, and what hes doing with this car is not supported by the mercedes factory, plus, drifting will throw around his set of golf clubs and bottle of Perrier-Jouet with crystal stemware. For shame.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-16-2012, 02:26 PM)SurfRodder nice work man! welcome to the forum... I dont think youll hear anybodu complaining about modifying the car here... there are other places for restoration minded people...
Incorrect. Those are not the stock tires, and what hes doing with this car is not supported by the mercedes factory, plus, drifting will throw around his set of golf clubs and bottle of Perrier-Jouet with crystal stemware. For shame.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Found this i guess doing something different will get you noticed.
I think it is all good i won the vote and had 19,000 views on it.
Theturbodave
05-17-2012, 08:29 AM #15http://jalopnik.com/5907052/for-5000-get-my-drift
Found this i guess doing something different will get you noticed.
I think it is all good i won the vote and had 19,000 views on it.
(05-17-2012, 08:22 AM)dropnosky Incorrect. Those are not the stock tires, and what hes doing with this car is not supported by the mercedes factory, plus, drifting will throw around his set of golf clubs and bottle of Perrier-Jouet with crystal stemware. For shame.
I should've known that someone who hasn't modified very much would call me out on that!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
05-17-2012, 11:18 AM #16(05-17-2012, 08:22 AM)dropnosky Incorrect. Those are not the stock tires, and what hes doing with this car is not supported by the mercedes factory, plus, drifting will throw around his set of golf clubs and bottle of Perrier-Jouet with crystal stemware. For shame.
I should've known that someone who hasn't modified very much would call me out on that!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
(05-18-2012, 02:28 PM)erling66 Can someone please explain to me why cut DV's gives more HP? The elements are pushing the volume they are pushing so why does DV's has anything to do with that? Are the stock ones a restriction? I don't get it, maybe my brain is not working today?
We're in the same boat! I am soo confused
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-18-2012, 04:52 PM #19(05-18-2012, 02:28 PM)erling66 Can someone please explain to me why cut DV's gives more HP? The elements are pushing the volume they are pushing so why does DV's has anything to do with that? Are the stock ones a restriction? I don't get it, maybe my brain is not working today?
We're in the same boat! I am soo confused
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(05-18-2012, 04:52 PM)sassparilla_kid(05-18-2012, 02:28 PM)erling66 Can someone please explain to me why cut DV's gives more HP? The elements are pushing the volume they are pushing so why does DV's has anything to do with that? Are the stock ones a restriction? I don't get it, maybe my brain is not working today?
We're in the same boat! I am soo confused
Well, the end-of-cycle is created by the collar below the seat on the delivery valve by cutting this you allow more fuel to seep by creating higher pressures in the injector lines causing more fuel to be delivered. but it's not so precise with the injectors opening at there pop pressure earlier beause of more fuel at higher pressures in the injector lines and lasting longer then the normal injection cycle.
Basicly, its a ghetto way of getting more fuel. It idles like shit, doesn't really have even power till about 15psi, touchy throttle, and has really high EGT's. It's defiantly like playing with fire. There was one guy that didn't remove the collar completely and said egts we're below the melting stuff zone, but still has the other issues. DieselMenkin says there is no way to overcome these issues thats why everyone 'recommends' you get a pump modified with bigger elements for more power.
1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
(05-18-2012, 04:52 PM)sassparilla_kid(05-18-2012, 02:28 PM)erling66 Can someone please explain to me why cut DV's gives more HP? The elements are pushing the volume they are pushing so why does DV's has anything to do with that? Are the stock ones a restriction? I don't get it, maybe my brain is not working today?
We're in the same boat! I am soo confused
Well, the end-of-cycle is created by the collar below the seat on the delivery valve by cutting this you allow more fuel to seep by creating higher pressures in the injector lines causing more fuel to be delivered. but it's not so precise with the injectors opening at there pop pressure earlier beause of more fuel at higher pressures in the injector lines and lasting longer then the normal injection cycle.
Basicly, its a ghetto way of getting more fuel. It idles like shit, doesn't really have even power till about 15psi, touchy throttle, and has really high EGT's. It's defiantly like playing with fire. There was one guy that didn't remove the collar completely and said egts we're below the melting stuff zone, but still has the other issues. DieselMenkin says there is no way to overcome these issues thats why everyone 'recommends' you get a pump modified with bigger elements for more power.
1983 300TD : 4 Speed : SLS Delete : More. Daily Deathcab
1987 190E/16v/OM603 : 5 Speed : SLS Delete : Lots More..W201 Project
I like to find other ways around cost. The cut Dv's are not for everyone. I did them three different ways, cut small knotchs, tapper cut and full cut. The tapper cut were the best all around with a good single turbo.
The problem is idle and egt vs boost with the cut Dv's (I have seen and read your posts on this and wanted to see what i could do with it).
If you have to much fuel you just add boost. Egts and boost(airflow) work together if you understand it that way you can make alot of power.
Example; alot of black smoke=high egt's = you need more boost or remove some fuel for that boost level.
A perfect setup is at your max boost level you have a slight black smoke out the pipe. You should be able to see through it easly. If you are rollin coal you egt are going to rise quickly.
I have spent alot of time on the dyno to see what does what.
This is why i did the compound setup. You will not be able to do cut Dv's if you can't supply the boost for the entire rpm range. The egt's are just to high. My set up does instant 12psi when you just touch the throttle in gear and then at 2200 is 28psi by 2800 its at 35psi. That's how it works
You can't get a single to work that way. Small turbo good at the bottom end, okay in mid, nothing on top end. Med frame turbo okay bottom, good mid , okay top. Big turbo never going to happen ,bottom end nothing ,mid range getting there, top end okay egt's are out there.
The idle( i have almost got the fixed w/some vacuum valves and fuel pressure control). I don't have it perfect yet put almost. When I do this forum will be the first to know.
Theturbodave
05-18-2012, 10:03 PM #21Your right on poor man's fuel. If you have the money do it the right way get your pump and injectors done by a good injector pump shop.
I like to find other ways around cost. The cut Dv's are not for everyone. I did them three different ways, cut small knotchs, tapper cut and full cut. The tapper cut were the best all around with a good single turbo.
The problem is idle and egt vs boost with the cut Dv's (I have seen and read your posts on this and wanted to see what i could do with it).
If you have to much fuel you just add boost. Egts and boost(airflow) work together if you understand it that way you can make alot of power.
Example; alot of black smoke=high egt's = you need more boost or remove some fuel for that boost level.
A perfect setup is at your max boost level you have a slight black smoke out the pipe. You should be able to see through it easly. If you are rollin coal you egt are going to rise quickly.
I have spent alot of time on the dyno to see what does what.
This is why i did the compound setup. You will not be able to do cut Dv's if you can't supply the boost for the entire rpm range. The egt's are just to high. My set up does instant 12psi when you just touch the throttle in gear and then at 2200 is 28psi by 2800 its at 35psi. That's how it works
You can't get a single to work that way. Small turbo good at the bottom end, okay in mid, nothing on top end. Med frame turbo okay bottom, good mid , okay top. Big turbo never going to happen ,bottom end nothing ,mid range getting there, top end okay egt's are out there.
The idle( i have almost got the fixed w/some vacuum valves and fuel pressure control). I don't have it perfect yet put almost. When I do this forum will be the first to know.
(05-18-2012, 10:03 PM)Theturbodave My set up does instant 12psi when you just touch the throttle in gear and then at 2200 is 28psi by 2800 its at 35psi. That's how it works
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu................... That's a LOT of boost!!!!! I barely get 12psi after a while at full throttle, you get it instantly with just a touch!!! Man am I jealous right now lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-18-2012, 11:35 PM #22(05-18-2012, 10:03 PM)Theturbodave My set up does instant 12psi when you just touch the throttle in gear and then at 2200 is 28psi by 2800 its at 35psi. That's how it works
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu................... That's a LOT of boost!!!!! I barely get 12psi after a while at full throttle, you get it instantly with just a touch!!! Man am I jealous right now lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I can see that there is a ca 1mm spacing between the collar and the seat. the collar is obviously needed for the idle but if it could be moved closer to the seat, less fuel will be returned by the DV.
I have a theory how to do this
You need a good lathe. Cut the collar and make a new one where the seat is and make a new seat on top of it. there should be metal enough below the spring seat. Maybe you need to take some of the spring seat but it should be strong enough.It would be very interesting to hear if someone try this. My lathe is from 1930 and not exactly what you would call precise
Keep up the good work Dave, I really respect guys that gets power without just buying expensive parts.
Do you have some good photos of your compound set up?
Thank you guys for info, I get it now
I can see that there is a ca 1mm spacing between the collar and the seat. the collar is obviously needed for the idle but if it could be moved closer to the seat, less fuel will be returned by the DV.
I have a theory how to do this You need a good lathe. Cut the collar and make a new one where the seat is and make a new seat on top of it. there should be metal enough below the spring seat. Maybe you need to take some of the spring seat but it should be strong enough.
It would be very interesting to hear if someone try this. My lathe is from 1930 and not exactly what you would call precise
Keep up the good work Dave, I really respect guys that gets power without just buying expensive parts.
Do you have some good photos of your compound set up?
Theturbodave
05-19-2012, 07:45 AM #24I just slapped the compound setup together in two days to see if it would even work. Now that i know it does I'm going to build a nice refined system alittle more compact.
Hotrodbenz
05-19-2012, 02:37 PM #25Pics of your compounds every said it wouldn't work I've got the stuff and it's going on my om603 in my 123 with the 6mm or 7 mm elements the bottom turbo is a h1c off a cummins it has a 18cm housing with no wg
Hotrodbenz
05-21-2012, 10:38 PM #26Hey turbodave think you would kindly post some pics of your compounds please
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-22-2012, 08:55 PM #27and some drifting videos! I wana see this beast in action!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Theturbodave
05-22-2012, 11:11 PM #28I will post pictures and vids I have(I think i have vids of every stage on dyno). I just have alot of work I'm doing with twin turbo's kits on the 2010 Camaro's right now. I'll try get something uploaded at work (I can't upload them from my ipad).
Hotrodbenz
05-23-2012, 11:22 AM #29What waste gates are u using would the stock ones not work? My h1c is not waste gated but I'm very interested in your piping if you are rebuilding it: )
dieselmerc
05-30-2012, 11:49 AM #31nice! compund turbos is the shit! I have it too on a om606 with 8mm pump! garret t03 fed by holset hx52! works great instant spool and above 500hp!
(05-30-2012, 11:49 AM)dieselmerc nice! compund turbos is the shit! I have it too on a om606 with 8mm pump! garret t03 fed by holset hx52! works great instant spool and above 500hp!
quite jealous of your twin turbo.
would love to compound turbo my 617
DieselMerc, can you post a youtube video (link) with a little commentary about your car?
(05-30-2012, 11:49 AM)dieselmerc nice! compund turbos is the shit! I have it too on a om606 with 8mm pump! garret t03 fed by holset hx52! works great instant spool and above 500hp!
quite jealous of your twin turbo.
would love to compound turbo my 617
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
09-03-2012, 04:06 PM #34How have I never seen this... Simply awesome.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-01-2012, 06:44 PM #36Looked like a W115 or a custom job
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
03-03-2015, 05:47 PM #39I believe it was real. But the idea that he had 300hp with 5.5 elements is laughable
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I thought the same thing led, and how is the stock automatic trans holding that supposed power?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
atypicalguy
03-16-2015, 06:26 PM #41I asked mark from sun valley about the tranny and he said the stock auto would hold 250hp pretty reliably.
(03-16-2015, 06:26 PM)atypicalguy I asked mark from sun valley about the tranny and he said the stock auto would hold 250hp pretty reliably.
Maybe if you crank up the line pressure, and make the shifts earth shatteringly stiff.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
03-18-2015, 03:49 AM #42(03-16-2015, 06:26 PM)atypicalguy I asked mark from sun valley about the tranny and he said the stock auto would hold 250hp pretty reliably.
Maybe if you crank up the line pressure, and make the shifts earth shatteringly stiff.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
(03-18-2015, 08:17 AM)atypicalguy 250hp with a fresh auto trans is a rare combo.
I've had two fresh autos go out at stock horsepower. One was rebuilt with paperwork. The other was brand new OEM mercedes, not rebuilt.
I don't see 250hp being a reality, unless you start dicking with line pressure and or adding in extra clutches when being rebuilt.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
03-18-2015, 03:14 PM #44(03-18-2015, 08:17 AM)atypicalguy 250hp with a fresh auto trans is a rare combo.
I've had two fresh autos go out at stock horsepower. One was rebuilt with paperwork. The other was brand new OEM mercedes, not rebuilt.
I don't see 250hp being a reality, unless you start dicking with line pressure and or adding in extra clutches when being rebuilt.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(03-03-2015, 05:47 PM)led-panzer I believe it was real. But the idea that he had 300hp with 5.5 elements is laughable
I better call this guy up. When I run calculations I need like 4atm absolute to burn 120cc of fuel and I am still not at 300hp.
atypicalguy
06-15-2015, 03:01 PM #47(03-03-2015, 05:47 PM)led-panzer I believe it was real. But the idea that he had 300hp with 5.5 elements is laughable
I better call this guy up. When I run calculations I need like 4atm absolute to burn 120cc of fuel and I am still not at 300hp.
atypicalguy
06-16-2015, 03:47 PM #48Can anybody figure out what two turbos he ended up using? Is the .63 a/r housing on the primary turbo?
Well I just picked up a new one a 1985 300td wagon that has a spare motor and I had already picked up a motor to start building a new compound turbo setup on and I'm using a R154 transmission with an adapter I'm building.
I want to see how much you can make without it coming apart and still be usable on street/track.
On this one I will do a cleaner setup (old one was just kinda thrown together)
I will also keep you updated on were / what I'm doing to make it all work.
Theturbodave
09-27-2015, 01:11 AM #49Sorry it's been awhile. I had sold my wagon awhile bk. I have missed the wagon ever since.
Well I just picked up a new one a 1985 300td wagon that has a spare motor and I had already picked up a motor to start building a new compound turbo setup on and I'm using a R154 transmission with an adapter I'm building.
I want to see how much you can make without it coming apart and still be usable on street/track.
On this one I will do a cleaner setup (old one was just kinda thrown together)
I will also keep you updated on were / what I'm doing to make it all work.
78 300D, 87 190D, 94 E320, 95 E300D
Bigpanda16
02-20-2016, 10:28 PM #50Dave, you should do an om603 or 606 and forget about the old 617. That would be more your style with better volumetric efficiency and power potential
78 300D, 87 190D, 94 E320, 95 E300D
3 Guest(s)
3 Guest(s)