Purple turbo 240D
Purple turbo 240D
Holy shit, what a day
after work I got these in the mail
the most important being the oil pan gasket.
Then I put on my dirty short and shirt and some working shoes and went at the car.
after about an hour I was able to get the brass fitting that I am using for the return on, it tooks me two days in total for this piece of shit mostly because I made mistakes on where to position it.
Then I fabricated the return hose that actually goes on the turbo.
check the length of the hose from the turbo to brass fitting and cut the hose to appropriate size
Then I cleaned the area of dirt, metal shavings and other crap I dont want in the oil/ oil pan and removed the old gasket. The old gasket had to be original becausae is was so worn and was stuck to the pan and took me a lot of force just to get it off, but the new one is nicer
I will be taking on the throttle linkage tomorrow!
I know what the problem was , you put shoes on, supposed to work barefooted....
Glad you got it together, sometimes simple things have a way of just taking forever and being maddening. I have been working on a boat repair for the last few days that I thought might have taken an hour or two.
(06-28-2012, 06:01 AM)ronnie I know what the problem was , you put shoes on, supposed to work barefooted....
Glad you got it together, sometimes simple things have a way of just taking forever and being maddening. I have been working on a boat repair for the last few days that I thought might have taken an hour or two.
(06-28-2012, 06:01 AM)ronnie I know what the problem was , you put shoes on, supposed to work barefooted....
Glad you got it together, sometimes simple things have a way of just taking forever and being maddening. I have been working on a boat repair for the last few days that I thought might have taken an hour or two.
that is a nice brass fitting, very elegant solution.
What is it? Looks like a bulkhead boat tank fitting?
I went with welding a threaded port to me lower oil pan, but this looks way better, ill be going this route instead I think
(06-28-2012, 08:40 AM)JB3 that is a nice brass fitting, very elegant solution.
What is it? Looks like a bulkhead boat tank fitting?
I went with welding a threaded port to me lower oil pan, but this looks way better, ill be going this route instead I think
(06-28-2012, 08:40 AM)JB3 that is a nice brass fitting, very elegant solution.
What is it? Looks like a bulkhead boat tank fitting?
I went with welding a threaded port to me lower oil pan, but this looks way better, ill be going this route instead I think
I did almost the exact same thing but I used an an10 bulk head fitting and bolted my return hose to it
(06-28-2012, 10:21 AM)willbhere4u I did almost the exact same thing but I used an an10 bulk head fitting and bolted my return hose to it
(06-28-2012, 10:21 AM)willbhere4u I did almost the exact same thing but I used an an10 bulk head fitting and bolted my return hose to it
OKay I am done for the day and I will lose a day tomorrow, I have to work and also go to some family part after work, sucks.
Heres what I did.
I put back the oil pan and Had to remove one of the A/C lines because it was in the way of the turbo return, so I will figure something out but for now it dosnt matter because my A/C is dead.
I figured out how to use the welder today, never used it once in my life and even thought i looks ugly as hell its actually very solid the weld I did, proud of myself!
Then I tried to figure out the throttle linkage set up, took me a while to get everything in and stuff but its much stiffer now and looks like it will work great althought I did someone manage to let the idle cable go all the way into its sleeve.....
Then I removed the injectors becuase I will ultrasonic clean them for now until I can get greazzer to do it professionally.
crush washer were also pretty dirty
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
For a first weld, that's great. Most people would have burned straight through. If it fails (you know you're going to want to stomp on the accelerator :p) it looks like you could use more heat and a slightly lower wire feed rate. Also, cleaning the surfaces to bare metal before welding, and making sure you have a perfect ground will help a lot. My brother likes to tack weld the ground clamp to the work piece (redneck way I know, but it works)
Are your glow plugs connected with a giant solid wire? That's awesome!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Make sure you replace the heat shields they are one time use!
(06-29-2012, 02:58 PM)willbhere4u Make sure you replace the heat shields they are one time use!
(06-29-2012, 02:58 PM)willbhere4u Make sure you replace the heat shields they are one time use!
You will need the seal rings for the pc's too if you (we?) take them out to ream the burn holes.
By the way on the welding, both parts have galvinazation on them so lightly grinding to bare metal will help with a cleaner weld. Good first time try, should hold.
(06-29-2012, 04:32 PM)ronnie You will need the seal rings for the pc's too if you (we?) take them out to ream the burn holes.
By the way on the welding, both parts have galvinazation on them so lightly grinding to bare metal will help with a cleaner weld. Good first time try, should hold.
(06-29-2012, 04:32 PM)ronnie You will need the seal rings for the pc's too if you (we?) take them out to ream the burn holes.
By the way on the welding, both parts have galvinazation on them so lightly grinding to bare metal will help with a cleaner weld. Good first time try, should hold.
Hey guys so this morning so far I got the throttle linkage all set up, phew!
heres what it looks like trying to re use what I can and not spend money, I tested it and works pretty well. I will need a new idle cable though becuase the one I have is all frayed but for now it is fine.
Now, I was taking a look at the air filter housing and I have no Idea what this little opening on the bottom is for!
can I just cap this? I hope so I dont really feel like doing any modifications
also I have the ultrasonic cleaner, gonna get to some cleaning today
hopefully I can tackle the exhaust today
That's the oil separator, turbo models have that inside the aircleaner. Where are you putting the normal 240d oil separator? If you're keeping the 240d one you can ignore the one in the aircleaner. If you want to use the turbo oil separator then you will have to deal with the different blowby oil drain, you can see the 240d drain is in a totally different spot.
(06-30-2012, 11:01 AM)aaa That's the oil separator, turbo models have that inside the aircleaner. Where are you putting the normal 240d oil separator? If you're keeping the 240d one you can ignore the one in the aircleaner. If you want to use the turbo oil separator then you will have to deal with the different blowby oil drain, you can see the 240d drain is in a totally different spot.
(06-30-2012, 11:01 AM)aaa That's the oil separator, turbo models have that inside the aircleaner. Where are you putting the normal 240d oil separator? If you're keeping the 240d one you can ignore the one in the aircleaner. If you want to use the turbo oil separator then you will have to deal with the different blowby oil drain, you can see the 240d drain is in a totally different spot.
Yours does not have the oil seperater, only newer ones. On the 300d air cleaner I just plugged the drain on it. Of course yours being an older engine you may have some oil in the blowby, so you may want to just run the drain to a catch can. It seems like the 300's had two drains in the oil pan. not at home at the moment so can't check that, maybe some else with a 300 will speak up.
Idle cable, in the process of tuning your ip that can be eliminated. As a proper idle can be had without haveing to mess with a manuel adjustment all the time.
(06-30-2012, 01:02 PM)ronnie Yours does not have the oil seperater, only newer ones. On the 300d air cleaner I just plugged the drain on it. Of course yours being an older engine you may have some oil in the blowby, so you may want to just run the drain to a catch can. It seems like the 300's had two drains in the oil pan. not at home at the moment so can't check that, maybe some else with a 300 will speak up.
Idle cable, in the process of tuning your ip that can be eliminated. As a proper idle can be had without haveing to mess with a manuel adjustment all the time.
(06-30-2012, 01:02 PM)ronnie Yours does not have the oil seperater, only newer ones. On the 300d air cleaner I just plugged the drain on it. Of course yours being an older engine you may have some oil in the blowby, so you may want to just run the drain to a catch can. It seems like the 300's had two drains in the oil pan. not at home at the moment so can't check that, maybe some else with a 300 will speak up.
Idle cable, in the process of tuning your ip that can be eliminated. As a proper idle can be had without haveing to mess with a manuel adjustment all the time.
got a little naughty and decided to start it without the complete exhaust
(click for video)
starting it was good because I was able to spot a few oil leaks.
sounds good!
Cars done!
I still need to install my guages but thats easy. I will do that tonight.
I took the car for a virgin run last night. All is well OIL pressure stays constant, the car is noticably peppier. I removed the exhaust and just left the down pipe for now, With the turbo whistling and the mean exhasust sound it sounds pretty good.
I will be keeping an eye on oil level as it has dropped but I put in two gallons of oil (8 Quarts) So i am assuming thats the oil getting into every nook and crany
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Now that you have heard it run without an exhaust, you have been tainted. The only solution is a hood stack
Time to turn up that pump!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-02-2012, 08:28 AM)Simpler=Better Now that you have heard it run without an exhaust, you have been tainted. The only solution is a hood stack
Time to turn up that pump!
(07-02-2012, 08:28 AM)Simpler=Better Now that you have heard it run without an exhaust, you have been tainted. The only solution is a hood stack
Time to turn up that pump!
Nice Great Job on this!
Your oil pressure seems normal to me.
.
(07-02-2012, 01:09 PM)DeliveryValve Nice Great Job on this!
Your oil pressure seems normal to me.
.
(07-02-2012, 01:09 PM)DeliveryValve Nice Great Job on this!
Your oil pressure seems normal to me.
.
(07-02-2012, 05:10 PM)ronnie Think 10, or 15 is the factory minimum for oil pressure at idle, warmed up. so no worries.
Looks nice.
(07-02-2012, 05:10 PM)ronnie Think 10, or 15 is the factory minimum for oil pressure at idle, warmed up. so no worries.
Looks nice.
Most people use the line that goes to the ALDA, but I guess that isn't really an option for you
Is it an electric boost gauge??
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Let's see some pics of the gauges, model #s, etc.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-03-2012, 01:58 AM)sassparilla_kid Is it an electric boost gauge??
(07-03-2012, 08:05 AM)Simpler=Better Let's see some pics of the gauges, model #s, etc.
(07-03-2012, 01:58 AM)sassparilla_kid Is it an electric boost gauge??
(07-03-2012, 08:05 AM)Simpler=Better Let's see some pics of the gauges, model #s, etc.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The boost gauge is mechanical, as long as it's properly hooked up you're good to go.
The pyrometer sounds like you have a poor ground / power supply, make sure you've run a clean ground and a clean hot to the gauge. My guess is that changing colors sucks power down and gives you funky readings. Did you extend the pyrometer sending wires anywhere?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-03-2012, 10:06 AM)Simpler=Better The boost gauge is mechanical, as long as it's properly hooked up you're good to go.
The pyrometer sounds like you have a poor ground / power supply, make sure you've run a clean ground and a clean hot to the gauge. My guess is that changing colors sucks power down and gives you funky readings. Did you extend the pyrometer sending wires anywhere?
(07-03-2012, 10:06 AM)Simpler=Better The boost gauge is mechanical, as long as it's properly hooked up you're good to go.
The pyrometer sounds like you have a poor ground / power supply, make sure you've run a clean ground and a clean hot to the gauge. My guess is that changing colors sucks power down and gives you funky readings. Did you extend the pyrometer sending wires anywhere?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Did you port match everything when it was off the car? The connecting pipe is pretty meaty, there are theoretical gains to be had if you take the time to transition it. Like this:
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
[quote='Simpler=Better' pid='42786' dateline='1341339243']
Did you port match everything when it was off the car? The connecting pipe is pretty meaty, there are theoretical gains to be had if you take the time to transition
no i didnt, had no idea. do they sell that pipe?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Wait, do you not have a connecting pipe in your setup? If you don't have one I can mail you one of my old ones, it's sharp-lipped though. Just takes dremel time to make it smooth like that.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Are you missing that piece, should not be any gap? Don't think I have a spare. I did not port match mine, however if you are missing it, and have to put one on, it may well be worth cleaning it up.
Not going to be much boost until it is in, just too much leakage. If everything it air tight, you may get a few pounds to maybe 5 psi boost until more fuel is added.
(07-03-2012, 02:44 PM)Simpler=Better Wait, do you not have a connecting pipe in your setup? If you don't have one I can mail you one of my old ones, it's sharp-lipped though. Just takes dremel time to make it smooth like that.
(07-03-2012, 02:44 PM)Simpler=Better Wait, do you not have a connecting pipe in your setup? If you don't have one I can mail you one of my old ones, it's sharp-lipped though. Just takes dremel time to make it smooth like that.
so my car was hit on the side today on the way to get new tires.... Paints all scratched and I have a huge dent on the passenger side rear door. I could always wet sand the scratches out but I dunno how ill get the dent out. Damage is pretty minimal thought.
damage isnt too bad. I could always wet sand the scartch out since its not very deep (what i mean is, it didnt go down to the metal) the ding isnt too bad. I could always try that stupid heater/compressed air trick and work the metal.
FML....
I was stuck in traffic when a lady stopped short and i was distracted with the radio and BAM.
Now the front end of my car is completely fucked. The grill is busted, needs to be replaced. The driver side headlight is busted completely and now the bumper is a little messed up.
dawwwwww I’m bummed for you man!
Fuuuuu....................... I would have just killed those people. You are having shitty luck these past few days, maybe/hopefully that means you'll get lucky and find some killer deals soon or something
(07-20-2012, 08:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Fuuuuu....................... I would have just killed those people. You are having shitty luck these past few days, maybe/hopefully that means you'll get lucky and find some killer deals soon or something
(07-20-2012, 08:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Fuuuuu....................... I would have just killed those people. You are having shitty luck these past few days, maybe/hopefully that means you'll get lucky and find some killer deals soon or something
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I have a spare grille. It's not perfect, doesn't have an emblem, but it's your for shipping.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-21-2012, 11:38 AM)Simpler=Better I have a spare grille. It's not perfect, doesn't have an emblem, but it's your for shipping.
(07-21-2012, 11:38 AM)Simpler=Better I have a spare grille. It's not perfect, doesn't have an emblem, but it's your for shipping.
Here's the EBAY stuff
NEW Mercedes Euro 123 rear bumper bracket 230 250 280E 240D 300D 280CE
Item Id: 330730591414
End time: Jun-09-12 11:38:39 PDT
Buyer:
blevyone (4)
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Member since Jun-22-05 in United States
Location: SC, United States
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