89 XJ Cherokee Jeep with 99 606 engine
89 XJ Cherokee Jeep with 99 606 engine
01-29-2012, 01:56 PM
#3
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
Nice. What are the plans with the jeep?
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
01-29-2012, 04:48 PM
#4
(01-29-2012, 01:56 PM)dieselboy Nice. What are the plans with the jeep?
My idea is to build these as an all terrain suvival 4x4. They will run on diesel or Biodiesel and be converted to also run on waste veggie oil year round. They will be equipped with 110 inverters to run of off a high output alt. and large roof racks with solar panels and room for gear. These Cherokee's are available reasonable with blown engines and will be fitted with the early 5 cyc. 617 Mercedes to keep the cost down. Just a thought, but have had a lot of interest so far. I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel. Need some feedback on this project.
(01-29-2012, 01:56 PM)dieselboy Nice. What are the plans with the jeep?
My idea is to build these as an all terrain suvival 4x4. They will run on diesel or Biodiesel and be converted to also run on waste veggie oil year round. They will be equipped with 110 inverters to run of off a high output alt. and large roof racks with solar panels and room for gear. These Cherokee's are available reasonable with blown engines and will be fitted with the early 5 cyc. 617 Mercedes to keep the cost down. Just a thought, but have had a lot of interest so far. I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel. Need some feedback on this project.
01-29-2012, 09:48 PM
#6
(01-29-2012, 08:01 PM)dust What exactly is the reason for the extension? I know that it is for the sump, but what about the sump is the problem?
The sump is in the front and gets in the way of the front axle, when it is positioned back. This required it to be moved forward 4" to clear the front axle and track bar. The tie rod is under it now but using a dropped pitman arm and after market tie rod getting away from the y style stock tie rod cured this problem. I would normally use the early 617 Mec 5 cyc. engine which does not have this issue, but I had this engine from a previous project and wanted to use it.
This post was last modified: 01-29-2012, 09:55 PM by zeeman.
(01-29-2012, 08:01 PM)dust What exactly is the reason for the extension? I know that it is for the sump, but what about the sump is the problem?
The sump is in the front and gets in the way of the front axle, when it is positioned back. This required it to be moved forward 4" to clear the front axle and track bar. The tie rod is under it now but using a dropped pitman arm and after market tie rod getting away from the y style stock tie rod cured this problem. I would normally use the early 617 Mec 5 cyc. engine which does not have this issue, but I had this engine from a previous project and wanted to use it.
01-30-2012, 03:28 AM
#7
(01-29-2012, 04:48 PM)zeeman I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel.
That's pretty awesome, my friend and I are currently working on a concentrated solar project to make steam to power generators so we can try to get off the grid
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
01-30-2012, 03:28 AM #7(01-29-2012, 04:48 PM)zeeman I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel.
That's pretty awesome, my friend and I are currently working on a concentrated solar project to make steam to power generators so we can try to get off the grid
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
01-30-2012, 01:21 PM
#9
(01-30-2012, 03:28 AM)sassparilla_kid(01-29-2012, 04:48 PM)zeeman I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel.
That's pretty awesome, my friend and I are currently working on a concentrated solar project to make steam to power generators so we can try to get off the grid
I think steam power might be making a comeback, being it can be generated by solar or with a gasifier. Wood and water I think will always be available. The military has been recently testing a steam engine in there tanks to run their accessories to save on fuel. Here is hoping we will not get to the point we can't drive our Diesel powered Mercedes.
(01-30-2012, 12:28 PM)erling66 Why don't you move the sump to the back of the pan? It is not that difficult, just a little welding
You have mounted the engine in a backward angle so the oil will collect there too.
The oil pump is in the front so there would no way to totallly eliminate the sump. The further the sump goes to the rear the worse it gets for clearence. The only solution is to go to a dry sump but is too costly. The engine angle was more extreme is this picture being the transfer case mount was not finished yet, I trimed out the trans tunnel and was able to raise it up more. It sits more level now that that is installed.
This post was last modified: 01-30-2012, 01:30 PM by zeeman.
(01-30-2012, 03:28 AM)sassparilla_kid(01-29-2012, 04:48 PM)zeeman I myself live off the grid in the Northwest, shop runs on a multifuel military generator. Shop is heated with a heater that runs Biodiesel and the air compressor is diesel powered and runs on Biodiesel.
That's pretty awesome, my friend and I are currently working on a concentrated solar project to make steam to power generators so we can try to get off the grid
I think steam power might be making a comeback, being it can be generated by solar or with a gasifier. Wood and water I think will always be available. The military has been recently testing a steam engine in there tanks to run their accessories to save on fuel. Here is hoping we will not get to the point we can't drive our Diesel powered Mercedes.
(01-30-2012, 12:28 PM)erling66 Why don't you move the sump to the back of the pan? It is not that difficult, just a little welding
You have mounted the engine in a backward angle so the oil will collect there too.
The oil pump is in the front so there would no way to totallly eliminate the sump. The further the sump goes to the rear the worse it gets for clearence. The only solution is to go to a dry sump but is too costly. The engine angle was more extreme is this picture being the transfer case mount was not finished yet, I trimed out the trans tunnel and was able to raise it up more. It sits more level now that that is installed.
01-30-2012, 06:21 PM
#10
This post was last modified: 01-30-2012, 06:22 PM by gn3dr.
That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
01-30-2012, 08:55 PM
#11
(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
01-31-2012, 03:17 AM
#12
(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
01-31-2012, 08:49 AM
#13
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
01-31-2012, 08:49 AM #13hell yea!!! captain needs to get on this!
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
01-31-2012, 12:05 PM
#14
There better be some videos of this thing, and I hope that the Dana 35 isn't still in the rear because you can kiss that thing goodbye. Better go with a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44 at least!
Goodluck with this!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
01-31-2012, 12:05 PM #14Cool project but I'm not a fan of the engine being so far forward. You want as much weight behind the front axle as possible... I would have extended the wheelbase, which is needed when going with any tire over a 33" anyway. I dunno if an inch or 2 would have solved the pan issue or not but that's the way I would try to do it.
There better be some videos of this thing, and I hope that the Dana 35 isn't still in the rear because you can kiss that thing goodbye. Better go with a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44 at least!
Goodluck with this!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
01-31-2012, 04:01 PM
#15
(01-31-2012, 03:17 AM)gn3dr(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
The bottom line is how much time and money do want to throw at this project, and keep it as simple as possible and reliable. You could use the Mec steering column to get around the key issue, you could run a speed sensor off the wheel spindle. There are stand alone transmission computers for the Mec transmission to make it function, the list goes on and on. If one of the components goes bad your screwed and are at the Mercy of the local Mercedes bend over parts dept.
In these systems you don't gain enough to justify the labor, in my opinion. If this were a CDI system were you can also electronicly control the injectors it would make more sense.
From what I understand pre late 90's computers were programable, late 90's were not. Then the early 2000's were programable and the late 2000's were not again. Mercedes seems to be one of the worst to reprogram computers.
(01-31-2012, 12:05 PM)Captain America Cool project but I'm not a fan of the engine being so far forward. You want as much weight behind the front axle as possible... I would have extended the wheelbase, which is needed when going with any tire over a 33" anyway. I dunno if an inch or 2 would have solved the pan issue or not but that's the way I would try to do it.
There better be some videos of this thing, and I hope that the Dana 35 isn't still in the rear because you can kiss that thing goodbye. Better go with a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44 at least!
Goodluck with this!!
Thanks for the comments, after a lot of research moving the engine a little forward seemed to be the best solution. The frame is a unibody and I didn't want to change the wheel base or fender opening. The engine is really not that far from were the stock engine was, most of the fender extension is to clear the Mec engine fan and radiator an inner cooler. The stock engine had a offset idler fan for clearence. This is going to be more of a all terrain survival rig then an all out offroad 4x4. Will get a video up when futher along. Thanks
This post was last modified: 01-31-2012, 04:15 PM by zeeman.
(01-31-2012, 03:17 AM)gn3dr(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
The bottom line is how much time and money do want to throw at this project, and keep it as simple as possible and reliable. You could use the Mec steering column to get around the key issue, you could run a speed sensor off the wheel spindle. There are stand alone transmission computers for the Mec transmission to make it function, the list goes on and on. If one of the components goes bad your screwed and are at the Mercy of the local Mercedes bend over parts dept.
In these systems you don't gain enough to justify the labor, in my opinion. If this were a CDI system were you can also electronicly control the injectors it would make more sense.
From what I understand pre late 90's computers were programable, late 90's were not. Then the early 2000's were programable and the late 2000's were not again. Mercedes seems to be one of the worst to reprogram computers.
(01-31-2012, 12:05 PM)Captain America Cool project but I'm not a fan of the engine being so far forward. You want as much weight behind the front axle as possible... I would have extended the wheelbase, which is needed when going with any tire over a 33" anyway. I dunno if an inch or 2 would have solved the pan issue or not but that's the way I would try to do it.
There better be some videos of this thing, and I hope that the Dana 35 isn't still in the rear because you can kiss that thing goodbye. Better go with a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44 at least!
Goodluck with this!!
Thanks for the comments, after a lot of research moving the engine a little forward seemed to be the best solution. The frame is a unibody and I didn't want to change the wheel base or fender opening. The engine is really not that far from were the stock engine was, most of the fender extension is to clear the Mec engine fan and radiator an inner cooler. The stock engine had a offset idler fan for clearence. This is going to be more of a all terrain survival rig then an all out offroad 4x4. Will get a video up when futher along. Thanks
01-31-2012, 11:27 PM
#16
(01-31-2012, 04:01 PM)zeeman Thanks for the comments, after a lot of research moving the engine a little forward seemed to be the best solution. The frame is a unibody and I didn't want to change the wheel base or fender opening. The engine is really not that far from were the stock engine was, most of the fender extension is to clear the Mec engine fan and radiator an inner cooler. The stock engine had a offset idler fan for clearence. This is going to be more of a all terrain survival rig then an all out offroad 4x4. Will get a video up when futher along. Thanks
Ahh, you dont need to do either. Just make the 4 link arms longer, or if it has a long arm setup all you have to do is extend two arms to move the axle forward. If you are installing anything bigger than stock tires, your going to have to do some fender trimming. Even with my 32's I've had to do some trimming, especially if you are running the stock wheel backspacing. I have 1.125" spacers on mine which helped immensely. I know a thing or two about XJ's especially the RENIX. But I see what your doing.... Sounds like fun!
Heres a few of mine:
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
01-31-2012, 11:27 PM #16(01-31-2012, 04:01 PM)zeeman Thanks for the comments, after a lot of research moving the engine a little forward seemed to be the best solution. The frame is a unibody and I didn't want to change the wheel base or fender opening. The engine is really not that far from were the stock engine was, most of the fender extension is to clear the Mec engine fan and radiator an inner cooler. The stock engine had a offset idler fan for clearence. This is going to be more of a all terrain survival rig then an all out offroad 4x4. Will get a video up when futher along. Thanks
Ahh, you dont need to do either. Just make the 4 link arms longer, or if it has a long arm setup all you have to do is extend two arms to move the axle forward. If you are installing anything bigger than stock tires, your going to have to do some fender trimming. Even with my 32's I've had to do some trimming, especially if you are running the stock wheel backspacing. I have 1.125" spacers on mine which helped immensely. I know a thing or two about XJ's especially the RENIX. But I see what your doing.... Sounds like fun!
Heres a few of mine:
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
02-04-2012, 02:36 PM
#17
(01-31-2012, 03:17 AM)gn3dr(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
I have been pulling my hair out trying to find someone in the states that is able to reprogram these computers and CDI computers. There seems to be people over the pond that can do it but nobody in the States.
(01-31-2012, 03:17 AM)gn3dr(01-30-2012, 08:55 PM)zeeman(01-30-2012, 06:21 PM)gn3dr That looks pretty cool. I notice the airflow meter installed. Are you running on the original management system? If so any tips around using the electronic control - I'm trying to do the same thing but just starting to trawl through wiring diagrams. I want to get rid of the security stuff and that horrible electronic Mercedes key.
Funny you should ask that, I have had this engine for 8 years and was going to use it in a street rod but ended up selling the car recently. So now it is going in a jeep Cherokee project. I never got into the electonics until now after buying a new computer harness and the electronic throttle and everything to make it work new from Mercedes for lots of dollars. I never thought the computer was going to be a problem until I talked to Oliver from Speedtuning USA the other day. He says that computer is impossible to get into to delete things to install it in a non Mercedes car. I have seen some people on this forum install them in earlier Mercedes with some success being they had the componets already on the car to make it work. But it seems the cure in other installations is to use a 603 mechanical IP pump to get away from the electronics. The only problem is the plunger size in the 603 IP is 5.5mm compaired to 6.0mm in the 606 pump these can be swapped to keep the original H.P. I hope this helps.
OK Thanks
I have the complete donor car so I can get it running but it just means transplanting everything (well a lot of stuff like ABS controllers etc.) over and I'd like to engineer out as much unreliability as I can. If I was just able to get rid of the steering lock / electronic key part that would help. There's probably no easy way to get rid of the ABS controller as I want to use the 722.6 gearbox and that will need speed signals as well as needing to talk to the engine ECU over the CAN BUS.
It's apity ther seems to be so little info out there (on the web anyway) about reprogramming the ECU. It has to be possible.
I have been pulling my hair out trying to find someone in the states that is able to reprogram these computers and CDI computers. There seems to be people over the pond that can do it but nobody in the States.
Purplecomputer
02-14-2012, 07:38 PM #19Nice Handy work there, I like it. Once its painted it will look factory!
07-01-2012, 11:47 AM
#21
This post was last modified: 07-01-2012, 11:48 AM by Freefuel.
07-03-2012, 04:53 PM
#22
(07-01-2012, 11:47 AM)Freefuel For Computer programing to remove the imobilizer key feature, you might want to ask Jeff over at Rocketchip.com, I remember him mentioning doing a tune on a MB in passing. When I whas having an update done to my VW TDI.
Thanks for the tip I will contact Jeff.
Ron
07-05-2012, 11:58 PM
#23
Spintech is about 15 miles from my house
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-05-2012, 11:58 PM #23Hell yeah! Spintech Sportsman 3000! or at least thats whats on mine. I dunno about back pressure behind the turbo though....
Spintech is about 15 miles from my house
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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