16x7 W123 tire size question
16x7 W123 tire size question
02-16-2009, 09:13 PM
#1
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
GileadGarage
02-16-2009, 09:13 PM #1Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
02-16-2009, 10:14 PM
#2
(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
02-17-2009, 06:13 PM
#3
(02-16-2009, 10:14 PM)winmutt(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks, I'll look into some 50's.
Not sure what I'll buy yet, but I will be looking for some performance all seasons.
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
GileadGarage
02-17-2009, 06:13 PM #3(02-16-2009, 10:14 PM)winmutt(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks, I'll look into some 50's.
Not sure what I'll buy yet, but I will be looking for some performance all seasons.
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
06-10-2009, 11:44 PM
#4
(02-17-2009, 06:13 PM)GileadGarage(02-16-2009, 10:14 PM)winmutt(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks, I'll look into some 50's.
Not sure what I'll buy yet, but I will be looking for some performance all seasons.
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
Ok, finally back into the 82TD after months of working on my other cars. I picked up some Hankook 215/50/16 for my CLK 16x7 rims and everyhting needed to rebuild brakes/front end.
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end now. I removed the springs (I actually found the proper spring compressor right in town, this intersting 82 year old lady had it and let me borrow it for installing a brake caliper in one of her 240's. She also has a 70 NSU in the barn that I might be picking up!)
I replaced the control arm bushings today with some difficulty, I had to burn/beat/cut one side out (I'm sure the dealer does not do em like I did!)
I was expecting to do this to the other side but it came apart OK.
Everything else came apart fine and I'm replacing pretty much everything.
I have a few questions:
Against my better judgement, I'm cutting one coil off the springs, I'm looking for 1/2 - 1" lower (My wife keeps reminding me that it does not make sense, but I'm doing it anyway - still that juvenile in me who wants to see how it looks/drives. I have another set of springs anyway)
Are any mods required to run this tire/wheel combo? should I expect it to rub? should I get some 6mm spacers? The tires are still not mounted so I'm not sure, they sure look wide compared to the 195/60's.
I'm replacing the front brakes with early 126. I can still use the steelies/ hub caps with these rotors/calipers right? I know I'm gonna miss those caps. If I could find the right 15 or 16" steel wheel and fit the caps that would be my first choice
I'm going to try some slotted/drilled 126 vented rotors (again, against my better judgement but atleast they can be seen through the wheel).Im installing some new Bilstein shocks and steering stab.
The only thing I am not replacing are the strut rod mounts. They seem in fine shape, one is a bit easier to move then the other, but they both have no free play. Am I crazy not to replace these? I mean, they look easy enough to do later if necessary (I don't want to wait or pay for them right now).
I'm changing a rear CV axle again due to a junk cheapo I installed 25K ago.
I'm also doing all new rear brakes and new SLS accumulators. I already installed a 2:88 rear end in it.
This winter I'll be installing another motor with a fresh cyl head and some minor mods and a manual trans set up from an 83 240D. for now the motor in it is fine, other then alittle blowby and pesky oil leaks.
I,m going to let the wife use it for a summer car (untill the first door ding that is!, its a clean car!), I guess I'll keep driving my beater 240 for DD, been a great car to me.
~Mark
GileadGarage
06-10-2009, 11:44 PM #4(02-17-2009, 06:13 PM)GileadGarage(02-16-2009, 10:14 PM)winmutt(02-16-2009, 09:13 PM)GileadGarage Hi folks, been a while since I have posted. I have not been working on the wagon project this winter as originally planned, I've been busy with an Audi 4KQ rallyX'r and now I'm in the process of getting my Samurai TD finished - again (sad story).
Anyway, I will be lowering the TD 1" in the front and have some 16x7 CLK wheels, I was wondering if 215/55/16 would fit? or should I go with the dinky 205's?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks, I'll look into some 50's.
Not sure what I'll buy yet, but I will be looking for some performance all seasons.
215 should be OK. My 7.5 currently have 215 on them. You will want 215 50 16 I believe, google for tire size calculator.
Ok, finally back into the 82TD after months of working on my other cars. I picked up some Hankook 215/50/16 for my CLK 16x7 rims and everyhting needed to rebuild brakes/front end.
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end now. I removed the springs (I actually found the proper spring compressor right in town, this intersting 82 year old lady had it and let me borrow it for installing a brake caliper in one of her 240's. She also has a 70 NSU in the barn that I might be picking up!)
I replaced the control arm bushings today with some difficulty, I had to burn/beat/cut one side out (I'm sure the dealer does not do em like I did!)
I was expecting to do this to the other side but it came apart OK.
Everything else came apart fine and I'm replacing pretty much everything.
I have a few questions:
Against my better judgement, I'm cutting one coil off the springs, I'm looking for 1/2 - 1" lower (My wife keeps reminding me that it does not make sense, but I'm doing it anyway - still that juvenile in me who wants to see how it looks/drives. I have another set of springs anyway)
Are any mods required to run this tire/wheel combo? should I expect it to rub? should I get some 6mm spacers? The tires are still not mounted so I'm not sure, they sure look wide compared to the 195/60's.
I'm replacing the front brakes with early 126. I can still use the steelies/ hub caps with these rotors/calipers right? I know I'm gonna miss those caps. If I could find the right 15 or 16" steel wheel and fit the caps that would be my first choice
I'm going to try some slotted/drilled 126 vented rotors (again, against my better judgement but atleast they can be seen through the wheel).Im installing some new Bilstein shocks and steering stab.
The only thing I am not replacing are the strut rod mounts. They seem in fine shape, one is a bit easier to move then the other, but they both have no free play. Am I crazy not to replace these? I mean, they look easy enough to do later if necessary (I don't want to wait or pay for them right now).
I'm changing a rear CV axle again due to a junk cheapo I installed 25K ago.
I'm also doing all new rear brakes and new SLS accumulators. I already installed a 2:88 rear end in it.
This winter I'll be installing another motor with a fresh cyl head and some minor mods and a manual trans set up from an 83 240D. for now the motor in it is fine, other then alittle blowby and pesky oil leaks.
I,m going to let the wife use it for a summer car (untill the first door ding that is!, its a clean car!), I guess I'll keep driving my beater 240 for DD, been a great car to me.
~Mark
06-11-2009, 10:22 AM
#6
Do you think the SD brakes I have are a worth switching too, I drive alot of hills?
When I cut one coil off the spring, I should obviously do it from the bottom side right? I plan on taking one coil off so it fits the same way. The top of the coil has that flat spot which it seems should be left alone.
Thanks,
Mark
This post was last modified: 06-11-2009, 11:52 AM by GileadGarage.
GileadGarage
06-11-2009, 10:22 AM #6I'm not sure I follow you? I have seen these wheels on 123's before so I think the offset is OK. maybe they are 7.5 instead of 7, not sure. I noticed you have 15" wheels w/ 215's and 50MM drop and those fit OK?
Do you think the SD brakes I have are a worth switching too, I drive alot of hills?
When I cut one coil off the spring, I should obviously do it from the bottom side right? I plan on taking one coil off so it fits the same way. The top of the coil has that flat spot which it seems should be left alone.
Thanks,
Mark
06-11-2009, 12:40 PM
#7
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
06-11-2009, 03:22 PM
#8
(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
This post was last modified: 06-11-2009, 04:48 PM by winmutt.
GileadGarage
06-11-2009, 03:22 PM #8(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
06-11-2009, 04:50 PM
#9
(06-11-2009, 03:22 PM)GileadGarage(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
1.5 coils even. You can also go down to 1 nub shims. More than 50mm drop and you can't adjust the camber far enough.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-11-2009, 03:22 PM)GileadGarage(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
1.5 coils even. You can also go down to 1 nub shims. More than 50mm drop and you can't adjust the camber far enough.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
06-11-2009, 11:27 PM
#10
(06-11-2009, 04:50 PM)winmuttI'm gonna go with 1 coil and see what happens, I don't want to go more than an inch or so. when going with 1.5, I guess you would need to rotate the spring to make it fit right? I'll be using whatever shims are in there since I cannot get any locally. I'm not even sure what height they are, but they do not seem too thick to make much if a difference.(06-11-2009, 03:22 PM)GileadGarage(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
1.5 coils even. You can also go down to 1 nub shims. More than 50mm drop and you can't adjust the camber far enough.
I'll take some pics tomorrow.
Thanks again
This post was last modified: 06-12-2009, 08:37 AM by winmutt.
GileadGarage
06-11-2009, 11:27 PM #10(06-11-2009, 04:50 PM)winmuttI'm gonna go with 1 coil and see what happens, I don't want to go more than an inch or so. when going with 1.5, I guess you would need to rotate the spring to make it fit right? I'll be using whatever shims are in there since I cannot get any locally. I'm not even sure what height they are, but they do not seem too thick to make much if a difference.(06-11-2009, 03:22 PM)GileadGarage(06-11-2009, 12:40 PM)winmutt ET is the offset of the the wheel, how far off center it actually mounts. It is the part that is crucial for clearing the tie rods. I have to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear.
Ok Thats what I thought you meant. I did put the wheels on with out tires to make sure they fit and they did, but I'm not sure once the tire's are on. I should have it all done this weekend. I'm gonna pass on a hillclimb race this weekend to get it done.
So one coil off the bottom should be OK then. I'm gonna do that tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Mark
1.5 coils even. You can also go down to 1 nub shims. More than 50mm drop and you can't adjust the camber far enough.
I'll take some pics tomorrow.
Thanks again
06-15-2009, 10:11 AM
#11
Also got the wrong calipers for the front vented swap.
Rear end all put back together, all new brakes/ebrake, CVaxle,seals
Ordered some hubcentric 5mm spacers since my lugs are a tad long with these wheels, I think it'll look good with them anyway The 215/50/16's are mounted, I kinda wish I went with some 55's instead of 50's, but they're fine/
I cut one coil off the front's, should be around 3/4" drop. I need to keep this thing a good daily driver which will see some dirt roads etc. I think the 1 coil will be a good compromise.
Hopefully I'll have everything to finish it this week.
What nub's do you mean? I don;'t see any nubs on my spring mounts. Its just a rubber cup, it does have 4 little pock marks on it. This pad is thin, less than 1/4". I'm gonna use them again.
This post was last modified: 06-15-2009, 10:15 AM by GileadGarage.
GileadGarage
06-15-2009, 10:11 AM #11Did not get it all done this weekend, had a heck of a time with getting the lower balljoints in/out.I should have removed the boots before installing them, I put a small cut in one so a new one is on the way. The balljoint tool works great without the boot, with the boot on I don't know what the heck you're supposed to use.
Also got the wrong calipers for the front vented swap.
Rear end all put back together, all new brakes/ebrake, CVaxle,seals
Ordered some hubcentric 5mm spacers since my lugs are a tad long with these wheels, I think it'll look good with them anyway The 215/50/16's are mounted, I kinda wish I went with some 55's instead of 50's, but they're fine/
I cut one coil off the front's, should be around 3/4" drop. I need to keep this thing a good daily driver which will see some dirt roads etc. I think the 1 coil will be a good compromise.
Hopefully I'll have everything to finish it this week.
What nub's do you mean? I don;'t see any nubs on my spring mounts. Its just a rubber cup, it does have 4 little pock marks on it. This pad is thin, less than 1/4". I'm gonna use them again.
06-15-2009, 09:13 PM
#12
(06-15-2009, 10:11 AM)GileadGarage What nub's do you mean? I don;'t see any nubs on my spring mounts. Its just a rubber cup, it does have 4 little pock marks on it. This pad is thin, less than 1/4". I'm gonna use them again.
Thats just wierd? Look closer? Should be 1-3
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-15-2009, 10:11 AM)GileadGarage What nub's do you mean? I don;'t see any nubs on my spring mounts. Its just a rubber cup, it does have 4 little pock marks on it. This pad is thin, less than 1/4". I'm gonna use them again.
Thats just wierd? Look closer? Should be 1-3
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
06-16-2009, 03:31 AM
#13
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-16-2009, 03:31 AM #13I just installed 225/50R16 wheels with my vogtlands... 3 nubs out back and 1 nub in the front... still a little low in the rear, but no rubbing, yet... Ill keep you guys posted as it settles in.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-18-2009, 01:10 PM
#14
(06-16-2009, 03:31 AM)SurfRodder I just installed 225/50R16 wheels with my vogtlands... 3 nubs out back and 1 nub in the front... still a little low in the rear, but no rubbing, yet... Ill keep you guys posted as it settles in.
My springs are still not in. Front BJ's been a bitch, I got one in, but I spread my new ball joint tool, suprised it did not explode it with the force I had on it. I tried putting the BJ in the freezer and heated the control arm, helped but still stopped halfway in. I think I'm struggling because of my now spread BJ tool is not giving a straight push. I brought the spindle over to a local shop so my bud could give it a try with his, he decided to knock it out first to try it again from scratch. When knocking it out he caused the joint to get loose so # 3 BJ is on the way. I cleaned up the contol arm hole, but I think I may give it a quick hone if it gives me much trouble again.
I bought some calipers on ebay but the guy sent me rears by mistake, so I order some new calipers from the local shop. I ordered 83SD calipers, I believe these work on my 123 W/vented rotors?
I cut 1 coil off the fr springs, I'll have to look at the pads again to see how many nub they are, I don't see any nubs - and they are pretty thin though so I'm gonna go with them.
my 5mm hubcentric spacers still not here either
Projects have been a real fight this year. It all started with the cracked block on my completely rebuilt 1.6TD in my Samurai (happened when retorquing head), had to do the whole thing over (this time used head studs!)
Should have the wagon done next week, should have been done last week.
GileadGarage
06-18-2009, 01:10 PM #14(06-16-2009, 03:31 AM)SurfRodder I just installed 225/50R16 wheels with my vogtlands... 3 nubs out back and 1 nub in the front... still a little low in the rear, but no rubbing, yet... Ill keep you guys posted as it settles in.
My springs are still not in. Front BJ's been a bitch, I got one in, but I spread my new ball joint tool, suprised it did not explode it with the force I had on it. I tried putting the BJ in the freezer and heated the control arm, helped but still stopped halfway in. I think I'm struggling because of my now spread BJ tool is not giving a straight push. I brought the spindle over to a local shop so my bud could give it a try with his, he decided to knock it out first to try it again from scratch. When knocking it out he caused the joint to get loose so # 3 BJ is on the way. I cleaned up the contol arm hole, but I think I may give it a quick hone if it gives me much trouble again.
I bought some calipers on ebay but the guy sent me rears by mistake, so I order some new calipers from the local shop. I ordered 83SD calipers, I believe these work on my 123 W/vented rotors?
I cut 1 coil off the fr springs, I'll have to look at the pads again to see how many nub they are, I don't see any nubs - and they are pretty thin though so I'm gonna go with them.
my 5mm hubcentric spacers still not here either
Projects have been a real fight this year. It all started with the cracked block on my completely rebuilt 1.6TD in my Samurai (happened when retorquing head), had to do the whole thing over (this time used head studs!)
Should have the wagon done next week, should have been done last week.
06-19-2009, 01:49 AM
#15
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-19-2009, 01:49 AM #15i def. know how that goes dude...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
06-19-2009, 01:12 PM
#16
(06-18-2009, 01:10 PM)GileadGarage My springs are still not in. Front BJ's been a bitch, I got one in, but I spread my new ball joint tool, suprised it did not explode it with the force I had on it. I tried putting the BJ in the freezer and heated the control arm, helped but still stopped halfway in. I think I'm struggling because of my now spread BJ tool is not giving a straight push. I brought the spindle over to a local shop so my bud could give it a try with his, he decided to knock it out first to try it again from scratch. When knocking it out he caused the joint to get loose so # 3 BJ is on the way. I cleaned up the contol arm hole, but I think I may give it a quick hone if it gives me much trouble again.
I just used the AutoZone tool rental to do mine. PO mechanic had WELDED the bj in place. Needless to say it took quite a bit of force to break that. Use dry ice next time, it does WONDERS.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-18-2009, 01:10 PM)GileadGarage My springs are still not in. Front BJ's been a bitch, I got one in, but I spread my new ball joint tool, suprised it did not explode it with the force I had on it. I tried putting the BJ in the freezer and heated the control arm, helped but still stopped halfway in. I think I'm struggling because of my now spread BJ tool is not giving a straight push. I brought the spindle over to a local shop so my bud could give it a try with his, he decided to knock it out first to try it again from scratch. When knocking it out he caused the joint to get loose so # 3 BJ is on the way. I cleaned up the contol arm hole, but I think I may give it a quick hone if it gives me much trouble again.
I just used the AutoZone tool rental to do mine. PO mechanic had WELDED the bj in place. Needless to say it took quite a bit of force to break that. Use dry ice next time, it does WONDERS.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
06-20-2009, 01:38 AM
#17
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-20-2009, 01:38 AM #17as for the ball joint, I know there are at least 2 styles... I had a Febi one that was a PITA to fork with, but the Lemforder one had a larger lip (and a smaller dust shield IIRC) so it was way easier to get the factory style tool to press it in...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
07-01-2009, 07:51 AM
#18
Went with a Lemforder BJ on the side i was having trouble with, also honed the LCA a tiny bit to clean it up, ruined the stones but it pressed in good.
So the entire front end is rebuilt except for the strut rod mounts which seem fine. I aligned it with a tape for now which worked OK, tiny pull to right but fine for now. I used some hubcentric 5MM spacers so I could use my lugs.
I cut one coil from the front and used the shims that were in there, I see no "nubs" on them.
The rear got new axles/seals and brakes and diff mount but everything else is original and seems fine. The rear has always rode a little firm, I think it needs new Accumulators(?) but the SLS functions properly.
I did not do too much under the hood, just set timing at 26, did valve adj and threw in some Monarchs. Already has a custom intake, blocked EGR and pump turned up a bit. It runs well for now and will stay like this untill the other motor/manual trans swap happens (which will be a while realistically)
The car drives extremely well, the ride and handleing feel good. I bet it would cruise nice at 130 if it had the ability.
Here are a few pics, thanks for all the advice!
![[Image: 007.jpg]](http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/markp-svoimages/007.jpg)
![[Image: 008.jpg]](http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/markp-svoimages/008.jpg)
![[Image: 010.jpg]](http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/markp-svoimages/010.jpg)
This post was last modified: 07-01-2009, 01:05 PM by winmutt.
GileadGarage
07-01-2009, 07:51 AM #18OK, I just wrote a long post describing all the stuff I did to the car when it all of sudden went blank, not sure what happened. So here is a condensed version:
Went with a Lemforder BJ on the side i was having trouble with, also honed the LCA a tiny bit to clean it up, ruined the stones but it pressed in good.
So the entire front end is rebuilt except for the strut rod mounts which seem fine. I aligned it with a tape for now which worked OK, tiny pull to right but fine for now. I used some hubcentric 5MM spacers so I could use my lugs.
I cut one coil from the front and used the shims that were in there, I see no "nubs" on them.
The rear got new axles/seals and brakes and diff mount but everything else is original and seems fine. The rear has always rode a little firm, I think it needs new Accumulators(?) but the SLS functions properly.
I did not do too much under the hood, just set timing at 26, did valve adj and threw in some Monarchs. Already has a custom intake, blocked EGR and pump turned up a bit. It runs well for now and will stay like this untill the other motor/manual trans swap happens (which will be a while realistically)
The car drives extremely well, the ride and handleing feel good. I bet it would cruise nice at 130 if it had the ability.
Here are a few pics, thanks for all the advice!
07-03-2009, 05:12 PM
#19
ps 14in wheels off a 1980s 280e with hub caps fit perfectly on my 1958 ponton in place of these 13in wheels with inter tubes
This post was last modified: 07-03-2009, 05:18 PM by willbhere4u.
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-03-2009, 05:12 PM #19I just installed a set of 16x8 wheels off a mid 90's SL. They fit pretty good except that they rubbed on the tie rods so I had to space the tie rod mounts in a bit with longer bolts and spacers and then shortened the tie rods a bit to bring it back in align meant. the only issue I have had was it rubbing on the front fenders on bumps so I had to roll the fenders up front and I installed a set of Bilstien HD shocks for good messur
ps 14in wheels off a 1980s 280e with hub caps fit perfectly on my 1958 ponton in place of these 13in wheels with inter tubes
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
08-24-2009, 04:47 PM
#20
That was a big mistake, they are shot, I know I am a dumbass for not rplacing them when all was apart. I'm not sure what happened, guess I did not move them hard enough to notice the play. The driver side is really loose.
~Can these be replaced with out removing the fr Rod mount on LCA, or using a spring compressor?
~The play cannot be adjusted out right (I never really looked at one, maybe I'm missing something)?
I'll find out when I get under there tonight, after work at 12AM (the only time I have some peace and quiet to work on stuff uninterupted)
I knew that would come back to bite me, but not so soon!
On another note, the car is running very well, wife has been racking lots of miles on it. The exhaust is not too loud and has had no complaints. Ac still working too which has been nice.
I have some guide rod mounts coming, I sure I hope I can replace them with minimal time/effort. I need to use the car this weekend.
Thanks to all for the help/guidance. I have not been around lately since I have been in Audi world, building a turbo motor for the 4000. It started out as a "low buck" project (and I thought Mercedes were expensive to work on!)
GileadGarage
08-24-2009, 04:47 PM #20"The only thing I am not replacing are the strut rod mounts. They seem in fine shape, one is a bit easier to move then the other, but they both have no free play. Am I crazy not to replace these? I mean, they look easy enough to do later if necessary (I don't want to wait or pay for them right now)."
That was a big mistake, they are shot, I know I am a dumbass for not rplacing them when all was apart. I'm not sure what happened, guess I did not move them hard enough to notice the play. The driver side is really loose.
~Can these be replaced with out removing the fr Rod mount on LCA, or using a spring compressor?
~The play cannot be adjusted out right (I never really looked at one, maybe I'm missing something)?
I'll find out when I get under there tonight, after work at 12AM (the only time I have some peace and quiet to work on stuff uninterupted)
I knew that would come back to bite me, but not so soon!
On another note, the car is running very well, wife has been racking lots of miles on it. The exhaust is not too loud and has had no complaints. Ac still working too which has been nice.
I have some guide rod mounts coming, I sure I hope I can replace them with minimal time/effort. I need to use the car this weekend.
Thanks to all for the help/guidance. I have not been around lately since I have been in Audi world, building a turbo motor for the 4000. It started out as a "low buck" project (and I thought Mercedes were expensive to work on!)
08-25-2009, 09:38 AM
#21
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
08-25-2009, 03:30 PM
#22
(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
GileadGarage
08-25-2009, 03:30 PM #22(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
08-27-2009, 04:56 PM
#23
(08-25-2009, 03:30 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
I popped them out today, not a big a deal, but not the most elegant way to remove them! Whatever, it was quick. New mounts are at local import shop, only 56 bucks ea! Those guys have been good to me.
(08-27-2009, 04:56 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 03:30 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
I popped them out today, not a big a deal, but not the most elegant way to remove them! Pass side I creatively used a big rathchet strap, other side got rough with a big pry bar. Whatever, it was quick. New mounts are at local import shop, only 56 bucks ea! Those guys have been good to me.
This post was last modified: 08-27-2009, 04:58 PM by GileadGarage.
GileadGarage
08-27-2009, 04:56 PM #23(08-25-2009, 03:30 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
I popped them out today, not a big a deal, but not the most elegant way to remove them! Whatever, it was quick. New mounts are at local import shop, only 56 bucks ea! Those guys have been good to me.
(08-27-2009, 04:56 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 03:30 PM)GileadGarage(08-25-2009, 09:38 AM)winmutt I need to do my mounts as well. Its fairly straight forward, you need some come alongs to anchor the lca from moving to much, no need for a spring compressor etc. There are some good threads on this over @ peachparts.
Thanks, I found that thread. I guess it can be done, probably not the prettiest way to go, but if it works I'm fine with it (Hopefully I can turn it all the way in without much trouble, I have a feeling its going to take a while).
Hopefully I can find the time this week, I ended up finding some problems with the Audi today that I need to fix before race this weekend. Everything is always last minute around here.
I popped them out today, not a big a deal, but not the most elegant way to remove them! Pass side I creatively used a big rathchet strap, other side got rough with a big pry bar. Whatever, it was quick. New mounts are at local import shop, only 56 bucks ea! Those guys have been good to me.
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