Purple turbo 240D
Purple turbo 240D
Keep the car, make it even more bitchin', buy a pistol, shoot anybody who even looks at the car wrong.
Deep breath ... I totaled mine after a bunch of work and I am still screwing around on the damm rear bumper on my replacement. Take a break from it. No one got hurt so no biggie. Plus, your loaner injectors are getting ready to be shipped. LOL
(07-21-2012, 06:03 PM)sassparilla_kid Keep the car, make it even more bitchin', buy a pistol, shoot anybody who even looks at the car wrong.
(07-22-2012, 07:44 AM)Greazzer Deep breath ... I totaled mine after a bunch of work and I am still screwing around on the damm rear bumper on my replacement. Take a break from it. No one got hurt so no biggie. Plus, your loaner injectors are getting ready to be shipped. LOL
(07-21-2012, 06:03 PM)sassparilla_kid Keep the car, make it even more bitchin', buy a pistol, shoot anybody who even looks at the car wrong.
(07-22-2012, 07:44 AM)Greazzer Deep breath ... I totaled mine after a bunch of work and I am still screwing around on the damm rear bumper on my replacement. Take a break from it. No one got hurt so no biggie. Plus, your loaner injectors are getting ready to be shipped. LOL
I am still laughing about the "suck my balls" comment .... LOL
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Take a comealong and straighten those panels out. You will have to drill some 1/4" holes, put in a fender washer & bolt, then pull.
Until you have the spare time to worry about bodywork, get it road legal and consider it an anti-theft device. I drove mine for a while with no grille-it's lighter too
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
so the car is deffinately running hot while driving. The needle is supposed to be at 175 right? cause its over that and its running at about like 190, 200 when im doing like 80 on the highway.
Maybe willbehereforyou has some advice.
also, anyone know how big the 300turbo exhaust down pipe is? I need the u clamp to hold it in place. So far for the past two weeks it just rattles and its driving me crazy
Take the a/c condenser off and clean real good between it and the radiator, also clean the outside of the radiator. I also wired the electric fan to a switch on the dash so I can turn it on manually. this will keep it close to 180-190 which is fine. you may not even need the fan until the a/c is fixed, in that case leave it off, you will get better airflow without it. Same for the a/c condenser leave it off until time to fix the a/c. by the way the fan right now is controlled by the a/c, so it will not work until the a/c is fixed or you rewire it to a switch.
For me the a/c and trailer pulling push the temps, then I turn on the electric fan.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Clean that radiator out spraying with a garden hose from the inside, and check your t stat it might be gunked up. My 617 never got above normal temp, even towing with a load.
If I remember I'll measure my spare downpipe tonight. I want to say 2.5"
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-25-2012, 09:18 AM)Simpler=Better Clean that radiator out spraying with a garden hose from the inside, and check your t stat it might be gunked up. My 617 never got above normal temp, even towing with a load.
If I remember I'll measure my spare downpipe tonight. I want to say 2.5"
(07-25-2012, 09:18 AM)Simpler=Better Clean that radiator out spraying with a garden hose from the inside, and check your t stat it might be gunked up. My 617 never got above normal temp, even towing with a load.
If I remember I'll measure my spare downpipe tonight. I want to say 2.5"
Add some Redline water wetter that helped my 240d turbo stay right on temperature
(07-26-2012, 12:12 PM)willbhere4u Add some Redline water wetter that helped my 240d turbo stay right on temperature
(07-26-2012, 12:12 PM)willbhere4u Add some Redline water wetter that helped my 240d turbo stay right on temperature
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Your underbody will get really sooty and it will be insanely annoying without an exhaust. If you don't have the time or money for an exhaust just do temporary a fender exhaust.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-26-2012, 01:26 PM)Purplecomputer ... If i leave it open and dont straight pipe it to the back, do you think the heat will damamge the underbody of the car?
(07-26-2012, 01:26 PM)Purplecomputer ... If i leave it open and dont straight pipe it to the back, do you think the heat will damamge the underbody of the car?
Once I have everything all fixed up, put the back bumper on and do maintenance, how much could I get for my car?
i bought it for like 3.5k
headlights and corner lights installed
just polishing the grill and putting it back together!
Also I ordered all the parts for an A/C rebuild.
I installed the rear bumper by just drilling in new holes for the rear quater panel mounts. Holds up well and looks good. No need for any adapters
here are some really shitty pictures i took after i was finished
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
About damn time.
I scrolled past too quickly, and saw blurry dark bumper shots...though "oh shit he's crashed it again"
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-03-2012, 01:22 PM)Simpler=Better About damn time.
I scrolled past too quickly, and saw blurry dark bumper shots...though "oh shit he's crashed it again"
(08-03-2012, 01:22 PM)Simpler=Better About damn time.
I scrolled past too quickly, and saw blurry dark bumper shots...though "oh shit he's crashed it again"
I'm fine with anything under about 105, lol
I am seriously going to kill myself...
The master cylinder just went.... :/
no brakes, I was pulling out of the driveway when i tried to hit the breaks and the car kept going...
Something else to fix. The 300D air bracket broke and the air canister is rattling everywhere, I might steal forcedinductions idea for the air filter.
anyone want to buy this car? Any parts i have lying around for it are included!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Probably not the entire master cylinder. When mine went it was just the oring that goes between the cyl and the booster. I have a spare master back home from my 300D, only has like 20k on it. Lemme know.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-06-2012, 10:07 AM)Simpler=Better Probably not the entire master cylinder. When mine went it was just the oring that goes between the cyl and the booster. I have a spare master back home from my 300D, only has like 20k on it. Lemme know.
(08-06-2012, 10:07 AM)Simpler=Better Probably not the entire master cylinder. When mine went it was just the oring that goes between the cyl and the booster. I have a spare master back home from my 300D, only has like 20k on it. Lemme know.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
PM me an offer and I'll have my brother dig it out of the merc parts box.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So i finnaly got the chrome strips for the grill and put everything together, including my badge
I lost the little metal bar holding that spring for the star so i just bent a nail and used that instead, I used the generic part method of thinking!
This is what the car looks like, "yeah, Ive never been in an accident, Im an excellent driver!"
Dude, that looks awesome. I think I may be ordering some euro lights next time I get paid, although I do need new shocks. Hmmm, maybe if I can find something to sell and come up with some extra cash lol
I have an extra euro head lamp, right side I can sell you for cheap. I wont be needing it that way you can source down the left side for cheap and get yourself some euros, but you only have a w116 right? you got rid of your w123?
OH and I thought I seized the engine today, I was on a service call for work when my car suddenly lost power and I had to pull over. It wasnt one of those "I ran out of fuel" type loss of power but it was a very gradual loss of power.
I checked the oil and I was like shit I must have run it out of oil.
So Im calling geico to get it towed back to my house, they said I didnt have road side assistance so I had to pay $75 for pick up and $5 a mile (I was about 15 miles away from home) and another $75 for drop off....
So i was like "NO!"
so i just kept priming the pump and then turned the key and It started!!
YAYAYAYA!
but seriously... I need a more reliable car. I think its time to part ways and maybe move on. With everything that has been happening in my life (car included) I think theres a time for change.
Ill decide what to do when I get back from vacation and have a clear mind to make rational decisions once im all relaxed.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Your tank screen is plugged. There's nothing wrong with getting a reliable DD to compliment the toy turbo car. I'd recommend any Ford with the 2.0 / 2.3 / 2.5 L inline 4 up to 1999-they're bulletproof engines. You can get a 2 seater ranger, manual trans for around a grand. 190k on my truck and I can still pull ridiculously heavy loads with it, parts are cheap. Or any 4 banger Camry from the early 90s, I used to run around in a 94.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
90s are lame. Best cars are all from the 80s. 80s jap cars/trucks are wicked. mazda glc,323,626, toyotas. accords camerys. very cool shit back then.
I would say the tank screen too. alternate fuels will really get this gummed up for those doing veggie, even if a two tank system. The screen is brass. Brass don't like veggie.....even traces of it.
I think of my 240 as a classic car and enjoy working on it. But do not need it for daily driving. Mostly because my shop is only a 100ft from my house. If I had to drive every day, a Toyota as I have had many would be my first choice then keep the 240 as a project/fun car. It is not that the 240 can not be reliable, but it takes a bit of work to get it there, and a real good understanding of it. Details become important.
(08-07-2012, 12:40 PM)Purplecomputer I have an extra euro head lamp, right side I can sell you for cheap. I wont be needing it that way you can source down the left side for cheap and get yourself some euros, but you only have a w116 right? you got rid of your w123?
(08-07-2012, 12:40 PM)Purplecomputer I have an extra euro head lamp, right side I can sell you for cheap. I wont be needing it that way you can source down the left side for cheap and get yourself some euros, but you only have a w116 right? you got rid of your w123?
Hey guys,
Still on vacation in San Diego. Love it out here, best part is thats theres old w123 galore! Saw like 7 of them on the same block. Some in awesome condition, others in shitty condition.
anyway, before I left I hooked up the boost gauge and i was getting about 2 psi on highway and no more then 4 - 5 on acceleration. I have the kkk turbo, how do i go and increase the boost a little more. I was about 5 cruising and maxed out at 10.
maybe that's kinda what you are getting but your gauge isn't getting a good signal.
Check for soot blocking the way or a leak in the line.
I have often found plastic tubing or even rubber connectors to break.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Go through the trouble of running a 1/4" line to the boost gauge, the 1/8" lines always kink
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Take the ADA that funny round thing off the top of the injection pump. and drive it around the block see if that helps I had to do that on my 240d turbo car to Evan get any boost the 240d pumps are set to put out very little fuel so they wont smoke. it make a huge difference!
You can also adjust the ADA top of the injection pump by loosening the 10mm nut on the top and turning the flat head screw in the middle out several turns CCW and then tightening the nut back down. or you can also remove the whole thing and get the same result
I turned my screw all the way out CCW and then tightened it and it helped out a lot.
This affects how much fuel it gets ccw gives it more fuel. But it may smoke a bit more!
usually it is adjusted not smoke. but with the turbo and all of the extra air I would not worry to much about smoke. Evan maxed my car barley smoke's at idle only
(08-16-2012, 02:46 PM)willbhere4u You can also adjust the ADA top of the injection pump by loosening the 10mm nut on the top and turning the flat head screw in the middle out several turns CCW and then tightening the nut back down. or you can also remove the whole thing and get the same result
I turned my screw all the way out CCW and then tightened it and it helped out a lot.
This affects how much fuel it gets ccw gives it more fuel. But it may smoke a bit more!
usually it is adjusted not smoke. but with the turbo and all of the extra air I would not worry to much about smoke. Evan maxed my car barley smoke's at idle only
(08-16-2012, 02:46 PM)willbhere4u You can also adjust the ADA top of the injection pump by loosening the 10mm nut on the top and turning the flat head screw in the middle out several turns CCW and then tightening the nut back down. or you can also remove the whole thing and get the same result
I turned my screw all the way out CCW and then tightened it and it helped out a lot.
This affects how much fuel it gets ccw gives it more fuel. But it may smoke a bit more!
usually it is adjusted not smoke. but with the turbo and all of the extra air I would not worry to much about smoke. Evan maxed my car barley smoke's at idle only
You can completely remove the unit. turning the screw out words makes it richer and turning it in lean it out with the ADA ther is no need for a line to it. If you have an ALDA then it needs a line
(08-17-2012, 09:57 PM)willbhere4u You can completely remove the unit. turning the screw out words makes it richer and turning it in lean it out with the ADA ther is no need for a line to it. If you have an ALDA then it needs a line
(08-17-2012, 09:57 PM)willbhere4u You can completely remove the unit. turning the screw out words makes it richer and turning it in lean it out with the ADA ther is no need for a line to it. If you have an ALDA then it needs a line
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Yeah I got your address mixed up with california head. They're amber and you just need to wire 1 resistor per led in series. I gave yo uenough to do your dash up if you wanted :p
After sitting for a week the air you missed bleeding has worked its way up, just bleed it off at the master and you're good.
Sucks on the job, I've been there. NY lets you turn in your plates and get them back later, so you can get an insurance refund if it gets mad tight....ask me how I know
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-19-2012, 08:27 AM)Simpler=Better Yeah I got your address mixed up with california head. They're amber and you just need to wire 1 resistor per led in series. I gave yo uenough to do your dash up if you wanted :p
(08-19-2012, 08:27 AM)Simpler=Better Yeah I got your address mixed up with california head. They're amber and you just need to wire 1 resistor per led in series. I gave yo uenough to do your dash up if you wanted :p
(08-20-2012, 04:54 PM)ronnie On the ada, take it off. It is not correct for a turbo engine. If you really want to put an alda in it's place. I just took mine off.
Bummer on the job.
(08-20-2012, 04:54 PM)ronnie On the ada, take it off. It is not correct for a turbo engine. If you really want to put an alda in it's place. I just took mine off.
Bummer on the job.
It's like a 21 or 22 or 24mm nut on the bottom of it I have always used a big adjustable wrench the nut turns clock wise and unscrews off the bottom of the unit. I cant remember but the once its loose you may be able to unscrew the unit it self Counter clock wise.
(08-21-2012, 11:49 AM)willbhere4u It's like a 21 or 22 or 24mm nut on the bottom of it I have always used a big adjustable wrench the nut turns clock wise and unscrews off the bottom of the unit. I cant remember but the once its loose you may be able to unscrew the unit it self Counter clock wise.
(08-21-2012, 11:49 AM)willbhere4u It's like a 21 or 22 or 24mm nut on the bottom of it I have always used a big adjustable wrench the nut turns clock wise and unscrews off the bottom of the unit. I cant remember but the once its loose you may be able to unscrew the unit it self Counter clock wise.