Cole's '82 300TD and various parts heaps
Cole's '82 300TD and various parts heaps
08-23-2012, 10:34 AM
#1
Still tons of work to do, trying to decide whether to go nuts fixing oil leaks in the white car or put the blue car engine into the white car.
White car: california body, something like 400K+ km's on it. drives great, but powertrain is a bit on the rough side. '82. Interior is trashed from the sun.
Blue car: 260K km's, immaculate blue interior and very nice condition engine '85, completely trashed body
I would like to get one of the engines running perfectly with no leaks, while i rebuild/soup up the other engine, and then eventually install it back into the white body, after i've gotten the little rust spots fixed and professionally painted back to gleaming.
Just replaced the oil cooler lines, and now there is a leak near the oil filter housing.
trying to clean it and look at it and see if it's the oil filter housing gasket, or the rear main seal...
cause if it's the main seal that engine is getting pulled.
I ordered the SLS rebuilt kit from performance something or other.com, cost 50 bucks but somehow mangled installing it back into the car. tried to use a torque wrench and it snapped the old bolts, so now it is leaking again. I've ordered the bolts and a new gasket, hopefully that fixes the leak before I have to rebuild it again, c'est la vie.
Replaced the vacuum pump with one from a donor, replaced the door lock actuators with ones that don't leak, put all new injectors into it, lots of stuff so far, still lots to go
It had a bad misfire i spent a lot of time trying to figure out, but then after i just drove it for 3 hours at 3.5K rpm on the highway it went away and the engine stopped shaking so much at idle, but at the same time the idle speed increased so something is messed up there.
Once i get that stuff out of the way i'm planning to do
bigger turbo
custom manifolds
water methanol injection
propane injection (if it's even possible to do them both at the same time)
New air filter setup (one that is less quiet)
exhaust delete (straight pipes)
egr delete
Intercooler for turbo
larger brakes/calipers/rotors from an R107 chassis (my mechanic says they bolt right on)
Pipe dreams:
-delete the SLS pump and the Vacuum pump from the engine and replace them with electrically driven ones.
-linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors
-add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush
-engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush
-change differential gearing (maybe)
-using bolt on kit from texas put a 6 speed corvette transmission into the car/or at the very least i've been told 300SD's have 5 speed auto's, hopefully i can buy one and throw it in there.
-electrical engine fan
-increased radiator size for long periods of idling
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 11:35 AM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
Hi there, here are my 2 wagons, I also have 2 617 turbo 5 cylinder engines from parts cars, and another 300D which is getting parted out.
Still tons of work to do, trying to decide whether to go nuts fixing oil leaks in the white car or put the blue car engine into the white car.
White car: california body, something like 400K+ km's on it. drives great, but powertrain is a bit on the rough side. '82. Interior is trashed from the sun.
Blue car: 260K km's, immaculate blue interior and very nice condition engine '85, completely trashed body
I would like to get one of the engines running perfectly with no leaks, while i rebuild/soup up the other engine, and then eventually install it back into the white body, after i've gotten the little rust spots fixed and professionally painted back to gleaming.
Just replaced the oil cooler lines, and now there is a leak near the oil filter housing.
trying to clean it and look at it and see if it's the oil filter housing gasket, or the rear main seal...
cause if it's the main seal that engine is getting pulled.
I ordered the SLS rebuilt kit from performance something or other.com, cost 50 bucks but somehow mangled installing it back into the car. tried to use a torque wrench and it snapped the old bolts, so now it is leaking again. I've ordered the bolts and a new gasket, hopefully that fixes the leak before I have to rebuild it again, c'est la vie.
Replaced the vacuum pump with one from a donor, replaced the door lock actuators with ones that don't leak, put all new injectors into it, lots of stuff so far, still lots to go
It had a bad misfire i spent a lot of time trying to figure out, but then after i just drove it for 3 hours at 3.5K rpm on the highway it went away and the engine stopped shaking so much at idle, but at the same time the idle speed increased so something is messed up there.
Once i get that stuff out of the way i'm planning to do
bigger turbo
custom manifolds
water methanol injection
propane injection (if it's even possible to do them both at the same time)
New air filter setup (one that is less quiet)
exhaust delete (straight pipes)
egr delete
Intercooler for turbo
larger brakes/calipers/rotors from an R107 chassis (my mechanic says they bolt right on)
Pipe dreams:
-delete the SLS pump and the Vacuum pump from the engine and replace them with electrically driven ones.
-linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors
-add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush
-engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush
-change differential gearing (maybe)
-using bolt on kit from texas put a 6 speed corvette transmission into the car/or at the very least i've been told 300SD's have 5 speed auto's, hopefully i can buy one and throw it in there.
-electrical engine fan
-increased radiator size for long periods of idling
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-23-2012, 11:11 AM
#2
Pull the head, port it and get the guides checked/ replaced. Ream the PCs while the head is off
Methanol will make you go, propane will pop the motor-the prechamber can ignite it
Straight pipes are good
Intercoolers are good
Bigger brakes are good, if they fit
The SLS pump and vac pump can be easily replaced with homemade blockoff plates
linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors-this will be fun
add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush-put that shit in the spare tire area! I love the 1kW inverter in my truck it comes in so handy.
engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush-replace the SLS pump perhaps?
For the transmission, run a 4spd from a 240 and change your rear end to 2.5's or something like that.
electrical engine fan-do it
increased radiator size for long periods of idling - stock is fine. Army doesn't even run a fan on his car
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-23-2012, 11:11 AM #2Set your valves properly, then run a compression test on the motors. Whichever comes out higher pick that one for modifying.
Pull the head, port it and get the guides checked/ replaced. Ream the PCs while the head is off
Methanol will make you go, propane will pop the motor-the prechamber can ignite it
Straight pipes are good
Intercoolers are good
Bigger brakes are good, if they fit
The SLS pump and vac pump can be easily replaced with homemade blockoff plates
linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors-this will be fun
add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush-put that shit in the spare tire area! I love the 1kW inverter in my truck it comes in so handy.
engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush-replace the SLS pump perhaps?
For the transmission, run a 4spd from a 240 and change your rear end to 2.5's or something like that.
electrical engine fan-do it
increased radiator size for long periods of idling - stock is fine. Army doesn't even run a fan on his car
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-23-2012, 11:31 AM
#3
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Set your valves properly, then run a compression test on the motors. Whichever comes out higher pick that one for modifying.The one tool my mechanic bud doesn't have is a diesel compression tester, so i guess i'll call around to various diesel repair shops. I wonder if I can get them to come bring it around to my backyard? but I'll have to do valves on the blue car first. I'm pretty sure the blue car is in much better shape, but would probably be good to find out 100%, then stop the leaks through whatever means necessary on the white car while i build up the blue car motor.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Pull the head, port it and get the guides checked/ replaced. Ream the PCs while the head is off
Ok, i used to work at an engine rebuilding place when i got out of college, pounding valve guides out of mack truck heads. i'll take it there and get the guides redone. What is the PC?
PC is prechamber?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Methanol will make you go, propane will pop the motor-the prechamber can ignite it
Really?! I was really excited about this, there are a couple youtube videos of guys running propane injection on w123's, and propane is much easier to source than methanol. I'll have to look more into this.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Straight pipes are good
I can't wait, i wish i could remove the air filter entirely because the engine sounds so amazing without it.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Intercoolers are good
The car normally runs at 90 degrees, and lately with all the oil leaks and the hot summer it gets up to 100 degrees.
What temp is the car supposed to be at?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Bigger brakes are good, if they fit
fingers crossed, maybe someone on here or peachparts will know for sure
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better The SLS pump and vac pump can be easily replaced with homemade blockoff plates
I should have no problem making those, and making gaskets for them.
finding an electric vacuum pump should be really easy as well.
finding an electric hydraulic pump for the SLS might be a bit tricky, but my uncle owns a hydraulic supply company so hopefully he'll be able to help me.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors-this will be funI'm an electronics engineering technologist by background so i'd like to do something with a microprocessor on the car
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush-put that shit in the spare tire area! I love the 1kW inverter in my truck it comes in so handy.
this will be such an asset driving around in the bush working on stuff to just be able to pull the car up and run everything off of it.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush-replace the SLS pump perhaps?
indeed, i saw a jeep with a belt driven compressor bolted on to the engine, has anyone ever done something like that on a w123?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better For the transmission, run a 4spd from a 240 and change your rear end to 2.5's or something like that.
[quote='Simpler=Better' pid='43850' dateline='1345738304']
electrical engine fan-do it
any part in particular i could buy and just bolts right on?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better increased radiator size for long periods of idling - stock is fine. Army doesn't even run a fan on his car
oh wow, i idled once in the blazing sun for 30 minutes and the temp creeped up to 105, once the electric fan goes in and i can just turn it up to max i bet that wouldn't be a problem anymore, good to know.
This post was last modified: 08-23-2012, 11:44 AM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Set your valves properly, then run a compression test on the motors. Whichever comes out higher pick that one for modifying.The one tool my mechanic bud doesn't have is a diesel compression tester, so i guess i'll call around to various diesel repair shops. I wonder if I can get them to come bring it around to my backyard? but I'll have to do valves on the blue car first. I'm pretty sure the blue car is in much better shape, but would probably be good to find out 100%, then stop the leaks through whatever means necessary on the white car while i build up the blue car motor.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Pull the head, port it and get the guides checked/ replaced. Ream the PCs while the head is off
Ok, i used to work at an engine rebuilding place when i got out of college, pounding valve guides out of mack truck heads. i'll take it there and get the guides redone. What is the PC?
PC is prechamber?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Methanol will make you go, propane will pop the motor-the prechamber can ignite it
Really?! I was really excited about this, there are a couple youtube videos of guys running propane injection on w123's, and propane is much easier to source than methanol. I'll have to look more into this.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Straight pipes are good
I can't wait, i wish i could remove the air filter entirely because the engine sounds so amazing without it.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Intercoolers are good
The car normally runs at 90 degrees, and lately with all the oil leaks and the hot summer it gets up to 100 degrees.
What temp is the car supposed to be at?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better Bigger brakes are good, if they fit
fingers crossed, maybe someone on here or peachparts will know for sure
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better The SLS pump and vac pump can be easily replaced with homemade blockoff plates
I should have no problem making those, and making gaskets for them.
finding an electric vacuum pump should be really easy as well.
finding an electric hydraulic pump for the SLS might be a bit tricky, but my uncle owns a hydraulic supply company so hopefully he'll be able to help me.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better linear actuators for hood and lift gate, poppers and solenoids for all doors-this will be funI'm an electronics engineering technologist by background so i'd like to do something with a microprocessor on the car
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better add a few more batteries and a large inverter system for running power tools in the bush-put that shit in the spare tire area! I love the 1kW inverter in my truck it comes in so handy.
this will be such an asset driving around in the bush working on stuff to just be able to pull the car up and run everything off of it.
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better engine driven compressor and another fuel door with an air fitting for running air tools in the bush-replace the SLS pump perhaps?
indeed, i saw a jeep with a belt driven compressor bolted on to the engine, has anyone ever done something like that on a w123?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better For the transmission, run a 4spd from a 240 and change your rear end to 2.5's or something like that.
[quote='Simpler=Better' pid='43850' dateline='1345738304']
electrical engine fan-do it
any part in particular i could buy and just bolts right on?
(08-23-2012, 11:11 AM)Simpler=Better increased radiator size for long periods of idling - stock is fine. Army doesn't even run a fan on his car
oh wow, i idled once in the blazing sun for 30 minutes and the temp creeped up to 105, once the electric fan goes in and i can just turn it up to max i bet that wouldn't be a problem anymore, good to know.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-23-2012, 01:26 PM
#4
Methanol= sanitizing alcohol, or low temp windshield wiper fluid. Just be sure to mix it below 50%, I ran 70% alcohol and the motor was NOT happy. A 120psi Pump,solenoid, and a sprayer post-intercooler and a little ways away from the intake manifold is the easiest way to do it.
If you're keeping the SLS system I'd say keep the in-head pump, it's the easiest way to do it.
If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.
Junkyard-you can pick up pretty much any E fan and then fabricate a bracket. I think Ford Tauruses have two speeds. I got a 16" S blade fan for like $40 on eb@y.
If you're not running AC you can fit a compressor down there. Otherwise you'll need to get creative or run an electric pump.
the 300SDs of the same era had 4spd autos just like the one you have. 240s had 4spd manuals, no Us cars came with manual 5spds. If you want one it's going to be around $1,000
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-23-2012, 01:26 PM #4PC = prechamber, there is a big thread on it. I *think* 1985 PCs are the desired ones. I regret not hitting mine while it was apart
Methanol= sanitizing alcohol, or low temp windshield wiper fluid. Just be sure to mix it below 50%, I ran 70% alcohol and the motor was NOT happy. A 120psi Pump,solenoid, and a sprayer post-intercooler and a little ways away from the intake manifold is the easiest way to do it.
If you're keeping the SLS system I'd say keep the in-head pump, it's the easiest way to do it.
If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.
Junkyard-you can pick up pretty much any E fan and then fabricate a bracket. I think Ford Tauruses have two speeds. I got a 16" S blade fan for like $40 on eb@y.
If you're not running AC you can fit a compressor down there. Otherwise you'll need to get creative or run an electric pump.
the 300SDs of the same era had 4spd autos just like the one you have. 240s had 4spd manuals, no Us cars came with manual 5spds. If you want one it's going to be around $1,000
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-24-2012, 07:09 AM
#5
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better PC = prechamber, there is a big thread on it. I *think* 1985 PCs are the desired ones. I regret not hitting mine while it was apart
Ok, awesome, i'll give that a read today
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better Methanol= sanitizing alcohol, or low temp windshield wiper fluid. Just be sure to mix it below 50%, I ran 70% alcohol and the motor was NOT happy. A 120psi Pump,solenoid, and a sprayer post-intercooler and a little ways away from the intake manifold is the easiest way to do it.
it does seem pretty easy to set up, so i'll definitely figure that out. Windshield washer fluid eh? I didn't know it was so common an ingredient. thats great news
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're keeping the SLS system I'd say keep the in-head pump, it's the easiest way to do it.and I have 2 of the sls pumps, so i might as well get more use out of them. When I took the SLS pump apart for rebuild my mind was blown away that for 30 years the pump had been spinning, 10 years with an empty hydraulic reservoir and it was brand new inside. Like brand new.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better Junkyard-you can pick up pretty much any E fan and then fabricate a bracket. I think Ford Tauruses have two speeds. I got a 16" S blade fan for like $40 on eb@y.great idea! thanks man
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're not running AC you can fit a compressor down there. Otherwise you'll need to get creative or run an electric pump.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better the 300SDs of the same era had 4spd autos just like the one you have. 240s had 4spd manuals, no Us cars came with manual 5spds. If you want one it's going to be around $1,000
interesting, well then looks like i'll probably end up blowing my brains out and getting the adapter and corvette trans. I have 3 transmissions though, maybe i'll wait a few more years and see what develops. These new double clutch automatic manual's are pretty interesting
Here are some more picture, the black 300D is black beauty, it's in really good shape but the owner is scrapping it for whatever reason, rust is starting to chew through the fenders.
The white one is my friends 79 240D with 127000 original km's on it and the 4 speed manual. It's been sitting there sans engine for years, one of the 300D motors is going to go into it eventually. It's super nice, but he'd never sell it or the trans out of it , ever lols.
I would like to go ahead and pull the trigger on this aftermarket air filter setup, and these EGR delete plates:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Diesel-...255wt_1282
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Diesel-...500wt_1204
on the merc forums people have good things to say about this guy, anyone here deal with him as well?
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 07:11 AM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better PC = prechamber, there is a big thread on it. I *think* 1985 PCs are the desired ones. I regret not hitting mine while it was apart
Ok, awesome, i'll give that a read today
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better Methanol= sanitizing alcohol, or low temp windshield wiper fluid. Just be sure to mix it below 50%, I ran 70% alcohol and the motor was NOT happy. A 120psi Pump,solenoid, and a sprayer post-intercooler and a little ways away from the intake manifold is the easiest way to do it.
it does seem pretty easy to set up, so i'll definitely figure that out. Windshield washer fluid eh? I didn't know it was so common an ingredient. thats great news
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're keeping the SLS system I'd say keep the in-head pump, it's the easiest way to do it.and I have 2 of the sls pumps, so i might as well get more use out of them. When I took the SLS pump apart for rebuild my mind was blown away that for 30 years the pump had been spinning, 10 years with an empty hydraulic reservoir and it was brand new inside. Like brand new.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better Junkyard-you can pick up pretty much any E fan and then fabricate a bracket. I think Ford Tauruses have two speeds. I got a 16" S blade fan for like $40 on eb@y.great idea! thanks man
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're not running AC you can fit a compressor down there. Otherwise you'll need to get creative or run an electric pump.
(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better the 300SDs of the same era had 4spd autos just like the one you have. 240s had 4spd manuals, no Us cars came with manual 5spds. If you want one it's going to be around $1,000
interesting, well then looks like i'll probably end up blowing my brains out and getting the adapter and corvette trans. I have 3 transmissions though, maybe i'll wait a few more years and see what develops. These new double clutch automatic manual's are pretty interesting
Here are some more picture, the black 300D is black beauty, it's in really good shape but the owner is scrapping it for whatever reason, rust is starting to chew through the fenders.
The white one is my friends 79 240D with 127000 original km's on it and the 4 speed manual. It's been sitting there sans engine for years, one of the 300D motors is going to go into it eventually. It's super nice, but he'd never sell it or the trans out of it , ever lols.
I would like to go ahead and pull the trigger on this aftermarket air filter setup, and these EGR delete plates:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Diesel-...255wt_1282
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Diesel-...500wt_1204
on the merc forums people have good things to say about this guy, anyone here deal with him as well?
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 07:27 AM
#6
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
you must have a bunch of extra money laying around to spend $160 on an airfilter. Those plates will work fine. The flat one is easy to make but the one that's a circle for the exhaust side can be a bit more tricky to make on your own.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
08-24-2012, 07:57 AM
#7
(08-24-2012, 07:27 AM)larsalan you must have a bunch of extra money laying around to spend $160 on an airfilter. Those plates will work fine. The flat one is easy to make but the one that's a circle for the exhaust side can be a bit more tricky to make on your own.
after i buy my buddy a case of beer for using his fab shop, yadda yadda, driving... easier to buy it.
i don't know about lying around money, but my benzo is my main project and i put money aside for it every week.
i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-24-2012, 07:27 AM)larsalan you must have a bunch of extra money laying around to spend $160 on an airfilter. Those plates will work fine. The flat one is easy to make but the one that's a circle for the exhaust side can be a bit more tricky to make on your own.
after i buy my buddy a case of beer for using his fab shop, yadda yadda, driving... easier to buy it.
i don't know about lying around money, but my benzo is my main project and i put money aside for it every week.
i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 08:03 AM
#8
(08-24-2012, 07:57 AM)Cole i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
That may be true, but if you are truly aimed at increasing performance for your wagon than that air filter will do you no good. The stock air filter will give you the coldest air possible without an intercooler. Cone filters like those suck air from inside the bay, where the air is much warmer.
It may not be pretty, but such is life.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
(08-24-2012, 07:57 AM)Cole i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
That may be true, but if you are truly aimed at increasing performance for your wagon than that air filter will do you no good. The stock air filter will give you the coldest air possible without an intercooler. Cone filters like those suck air from inside the bay, where the air is much warmer.
It may not be pretty, but such is life.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
08-24-2012, 09:00 AM
#9
(08-24-2012, 07:09 AM)Cole(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
Check your engine-body ground and your gauges-body grounds too
The EGR kit is a decent deal if you won't have shop access. I've made plates with an angle grinder before.
Don't buy that filter it's crap. You can get a cylindrical paper filter at any parts store for around $25, they were used in GMC trucks I believe. Then get some PVC elbows, and a rubber connector from the hardware store. If you're worried about looks file off the molded part numbers on the PVC and paint it hammered silver or something, should only cost you around $35 said and done, and it will filter way better than the eb@y link.
If you're looking for quick upgrades, replace your muffler with a section of straight pipe and hook up a cheap boost controller (or adjust your wastegate)
Why the fascination with 6 gears and multiple clutches? If your highest gear (let's say 4th) is matched to your rear gears and tires to give you nice low rpms on the highway, you shouldn't lose acceleration with proper fueling. The cost to ram in a chevy transmission will be similar or more than a superpump.
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 09:35 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-24-2012, 09:00 AM #9(08-24-2012, 07:09 AM)Cole(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
Check your engine-body ground and your gauges-body grounds too
The EGR kit is a decent deal if you won't have shop access. I've made plates with an angle grinder before.
Don't buy that filter it's crap. You can get a cylindrical paper filter at any parts store for around $25, they were used in GMC trucks I believe. Then get some PVC elbows, and a rubber connector from the hardware store. If you're worried about looks file off the molded part numbers on the PVC and paint it hammered silver or something, should only cost you around $35 said and done, and it will filter way better than the eb@y link.
If you're looking for quick upgrades, replace your muffler with a section of straight pipe and hook up a cheap boost controller (or adjust your wastegate)
Why the fascination with 6 gears and multiple clutches? If your highest gear (let's say 4th) is matched to your rear gears and tires to give you nice low rpms on the highway, you shouldn't lose acceleration with proper fueling. The cost to ram in a chevy transmission will be similar or more than a superpump.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-24-2012, 09:52 AM
#10
(08-24-2012, 09:00 AM)Simpler=Better(08-24-2012, 07:09 AM)Cole(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
Check your engine-body ground and your gauges-body grounds too
The EGR kit is a decent deal if you won't have shop access. I've made plates with an angle grinder before.
Don't buy that filter it's crap. You can get a cylindrical paper filter at any parts store for around $25, they were used in GMC trucks I believe. Then get some PVC elbows, and a rubber connector from the hardware store. If you're worried about looks file off the molded part numbers on the PVC and paint it hammered silver or something, should only cost you around $35 said and done, and it will filter way better than the eb@y link.
If you're looking for quick upgrades, replace your muffler with a section of straight pipe and hook up a cheap boost controller (or adjust your wastegate)
Why the fascination with 6 gears and multiple clutches? If your highest gear (let's say 4th) is matched to your rear gears and tires to give you nice low rpms on the highway, you shouldn't lose acceleration with proper fueling. The cost to ram in a chevy transmission will be similar or more than a superpump.
are the gauge grounds behind the cluster or is it all in the engine bay? Most of those weird merc junction boxes all over the wheel wells are due for a good contact cleaner bath, guess that's what i'll do over the weekend.
I like the idea of hacking together the air filter, at least i could get the layout done to my liking for cheap, then tig some nice pipes together later once i have the layout finalized.
I was into the idea of a more sophisticated transmission because of long trips screaming at 4k make me sort of uncomfortable, but you are saying the best way to achieve this is messing around in the diff? I guess i'll start trying to figure out those gears, i see people talking about them all over the forum, i'll have to find out more
(08-24-2012, 08:03 AM)w123love(08-24-2012, 07:57 AM)Cole i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
That may be true, but if you are truly aimed at increasing performance for your wagon than that air filter will do you no good. The stock air filter will give you the coldest air possible without an intercooler. Cone filters like those suck air from inside the bay, where the air is much warmer.
It may not be pretty, but such is life.
oh very good point, that give me something to think about. no one does cold air intakes on these old benzes?
Also would someone be so kind as to point me in the direction of some reference materials about boost controllers? I know nothing of such things
I should also say I'm from toronto, i'm 27, and i'm no mechanic lols, i love these engines, and am slowly learning about them, I hope one day to perhaps even be reasonably proficient with them
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 10:50 AM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-24-2012, 09:00 AM)Simpler=Better(08-24-2012, 07:09 AM)Cole(08-23-2012, 01:26 PM)Simpler=Better If you're running temps that high you need to check your thermostat, maybe do a coolant flush.ok, not good, i know the coolant hasn't been messed with, i'll do that, and ask my mechanic, the temp guage didn't work originally, i believe he changed the thermostat, still didn't work, so we switched the temp sensor off of one of the parts engines. He was surprised, says the sensors themselves rarely fail.
Check your engine-body ground and your gauges-body grounds too
The EGR kit is a decent deal if you won't have shop access. I've made plates with an angle grinder before.
Don't buy that filter it's crap. You can get a cylindrical paper filter at any parts store for around $25, they were used in GMC trucks I believe. Then get some PVC elbows, and a rubber connector from the hardware store. If you're worried about looks file off the molded part numbers on the PVC and paint it hammered silver or something, should only cost you around $35 said and done, and it will filter way better than the eb@y link.
If you're looking for quick upgrades, replace your muffler with a section of straight pipe and hook up a cheap boost controller (or adjust your wastegate)
Why the fascination with 6 gears and multiple clutches? If your highest gear (let's say 4th) is matched to your rear gears and tires to give you nice low rpms on the highway, you shouldn't lose acceleration with proper fueling. The cost to ram in a chevy transmission will be similar or more than a superpump.
are the gauge grounds behind the cluster or is it all in the engine bay? Most of those weird merc junction boxes all over the wheel wells are due for a good contact cleaner bath, guess that's what i'll do over the weekend.
I like the idea of hacking together the air filter, at least i could get the layout done to my liking for cheap, then tig some nice pipes together later once i have the layout finalized.
I was into the idea of a more sophisticated transmission because of long trips screaming at 4k make me sort of uncomfortable, but you are saying the best way to achieve this is messing around in the diff? I guess i'll start trying to figure out those gears, i see people talking about them all over the forum, i'll have to find out more
(08-24-2012, 08:03 AM)w123love(08-24-2012, 07:57 AM)Cole i was driving around with no air filter for a bit last week, and the engine just sounded so good, i read this setup can give you a nice sound so i'm into it, plus the air filter just takes up so much bloody space
That may be true, but if you are truly aimed at increasing performance for your wagon than that air filter will do you no good. The stock air filter will give you the coldest air possible without an intercooler. Cone filters like those suck air from inside the bay, where the air is much warmer.
It may not be pretty, but such is life.
oh very good point, that give me something to think about. no one does cold air intakes on these old benzes?
Also would someone be so kind as to point me in the direction of some reference materials about boost controllers? I know nothing of such things
I should also say I'm from toronto, i'm 27, and i'm no mechanic lols, i love these engines, and am slowly learning about them, I hope one day to perhaps even be reasonably proficient with them
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 10:52 AM
#11
The cold air thing has been beat to hell 500x times, long story short the stock intake gives you cold unrestricted air, but muffles the turbo whine and is ugly. A paper cylinder is easier and louder, with a small trade off of heat at low speeds. Maybe you can hack up the stock scoop to feed a cone filter?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-24-2012, 10:52 AM #11If you gear the rear end properly you can roll around at like 2,500 rpm on the highway. I forget the specifivs, but I tihnk the rear gears from a v8 are what you want-better double check though.
The cold air thing has been beat to hell 500x times, long story short the stock intake gives you cold unrestricted air, but muffles the turbo whine and is ugly. A paper cylinder is easier and louder, with a small trade off of heat at low speeds. Maybe you can hack up the stock scoop to feed a cone filter?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-24-2012, 11:01 AM
#12
(08-24-2012, 10:52 AM)Simpler=Better If you gear the rear end properly you can roll around at like 2,500 rpm on the highway. I forget the specifivs, but I tihnk the rear gears from a v8 are what you want-better double check though.
The cold air thing has been beat to hell 500x times, long story short the stock intake gives you cold unrestricted air, but muffles the turbo whine and is ugly. A paper cylinder is easier and louder, with a small trade off of heat at low speeds. Maybe you can hack up the stock scoop to feed a cone filter?
with a 6th gear and over 200 ft lbs of torque couldn't i in theory get it down to like 1200-1500 rpms at 120 km/h and get incredible mileage?
I'm going to take a good long look at the airflow setup, this weekend, i'll see what I can come up with.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-24-2012, 10:52 AM)Simpler=Better If you gear the rear end properly you can roll around at like 2,500 rpm on the highway. I forget the specifivs, but I tihnk the rear gears from a v8 are what you want-better double check though.
The cold air thing has been beat to hell 500x times, long story short the stock intake gives you cold unrestricted air, but muffles the turbo whine and is ugly. A paper cylinder is easier and louder, with a small trade off of heat at low speeds. Maybe you can hack up the stock scoop to feed a cone filter?
with a 6th gear and over 200 ft lbs of torque couldn't i in theory get it down to like 1200-1500 rpms at 120 km/h and get incredible mileage?
I'm going to take a good long look at the airflow setup, this weekend, i'll see what I can come up with.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 02:18 PM
#13
Is there a default setting for the alda that would improve performance? i see in some peoples sig's they have the alda "maxed out"
which direction is that? all the way in?
i would like to put it all the way in with the engine running then back it out until there is a nice smooth idle with little shaking.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
Another question, the alda on my car has been messed with, i cleaned out the intake pressure banjo transducer thing a while back, it wasn't very dirty, i did notice some gains after however.
Is there a default setting for the alda that would improve performance? i see in some peoples sig's they have the alda "maxed out"
which direction is that? all the way in?
i would like to put it all the way in with the engine running then back it out until there is a nice smooth idle with little shaking.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 02:25 PM
#14
Just remove it, it's a 30 year old brazed diaphragm that's prone to failure.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-24-2012, 02:25 PM #14ALSA doesn't smooth the idle, getting your injectors serviced, and having your valve sin spec makes it idle smooth.
Just remove it, it's a 30 year old brazed diaphragm that's prone to failure.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-24-2012, 02:37 PM
#15
(08-24-2012, 02:25 PM)Simpler=Better ALSA doesn't smooth the idle, getting your injectors serviced, and having your valve sin spec makes it idle smooth.
Just remove it, it's a 30 year old brazed diaphragm that's prone to failure.
ok well i just put in 5 new injectors and did the valves, so it should be good. it had a miss for a long time but lately i beat the piss out of it and all of a sudden the miss disappeared. from reading i guess i dislodged some carbon somewhere inside or somesuch.
let me search around for removing the alda instructions, thanks for the heads up
just found this on ebay too, finally will get this fixed.
my mechanic said he's never seen one where the shifter actually went, always those little plastic boots, but on mine the boots are brand new and there is a ton of slop.
and sometimes when you hammer the shifter down into "S" it manages to shift into "L" without needing to go around the cutout in the shift pattern plate
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-77...500wt_1204
i fucking hate ebay
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 03:00 PM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-24-2012, 02:25 PM)Simpler=Better ALSA doesn't smooth the idle, getting your injectors serviced, and having your valve sin spec makes it idle smooth.
Just remove it, it's a 30 year old brazed diaphragm that's prone to failure.
ok well i just put in 5 new injectors and did the valves, so it should be good. it had a miss for a long time but lately i beat the piss out of it and all of a sudden the miss disappeared. from reading i guess i dislodged some carbon somewhere inside or somesuch.
let me search around for removing the alda instructions, thanks for the heads up
just found this on ebay too, finally will get this fixed.
my mechanic said he's never seen one where the shifter actually went, always those little plastic boots, but on mine the boots are brand new and there is a ton of slop.
and sometimes when you hammer the shifter down into "S" it manages to shift into "L" without needing to go around the cutout in the shift pattern plate
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-77...500wt_1204
i fucking hate ebay
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
08-24-2012, 09:01 PM
#16
I also think that some synthetic oil is in order. I got some rotella on sale the other day at advanced auto, here it was $24/gal
That stuff is supposed to help clean out a motor and I swear it doesn't burn up like that standard oil does. Those esters are like chemistry magic
I say keep driving them hard and throw some trans fluid in the crankcase before an oil change.
Oh, is that slop in the shifting from the bushings on the shifter linkage? Those are like $10. I never bother to look into it cause I can still hit all the gears
I had to get a great big wrench to help take the alda(s) off. It's like 1 and 1/8 or 1 and 1/4. Then another thing like steel rod into where the air tube leads and turn that left. while holding that big wrench to the rightward direction.
This post was last modified: 08-24-2012, 09:08 PM by larsalan.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
' i beat the piss out of it and all of a sudden the miss disappeared '
I also think that some synthetic oil is in order. I got some rotella on sale the other day at advanced auto, here it was $24/gal
That stuff is supposed to help clean out a motor and I swear it doesn't burn up like that standard oil does. Those esters are like chemistry magic
I say keep driving them hard and throw some trans fluid in the crankcase before an oil change.
Oh, is that slop in the shifting from the bushings on the shifter linkage? Those are like $10. I never bother to look into it cause I can still hit all the gears
I had to get a great big wrench to help take the alda(s) off. It's like 1 and 1/8 or 1 and 1/4. Then another thing like steel rod into where the air tube leads and turn that left. while holding that big wrench to the rightward direction.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
08-25-2012, 03:36 PM
#17
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan ' i beat the piss out of it and all of a sudden the miss disappeared 'that's a pretty sweet deal, i did a lubro moly purge a while back, probably going to do a few more oil changes before I do another, especially with brand new injectors and lines.
I also think that some synthetic oil is in order. I got some rotella on sale the other day at advanced auto, here it was $24/gal
That stuff is supposed to help clean out a motor and I swear it doesn't burn up like that standard oil does. Those esters are like chemistry magic
I say keep driving them hard and throw some trans fluid in the crankcase before an oil change.
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan Oh, is that slop in the shifting from the bushings on the shifter linkage? Those are like $10. I never bother to look into it cause I can still hit all the gearsnah, the linkage and bushings are brand new still, it's the actual assembly. maybe i should just take it apart, or switch it out of my blue one, that would probably be easier. Forgot the factory service manual at home and my laptop at my shop, i'll bring it home today and read about the shifter.
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan I had to get a great big wrench to help take the alda(s) off. It's like 1 and 1/8 or 1 and 1/4. Then another thing like steel rod into where the air tube leads and turn that left. while holding that big wrench to the rightward direction.
is there any cover plates or golf tees required in the uninstallation of the alda? or just pull it off and you're good to go
installed the ebay app on my phone, now i'm in trouble.
so hard to find POR 15 in canada
This post was last modified: 08-25-2012, 04:01 PM by Cole.
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan ' i beat the piss out of it and all of a sudden the miss disappeared 'that's a pretty sweet deal, i did a lubro moly purge a while back, probably going to do a few more oil changes before I do another, especially with brand new injectors and lines.
I also think that some synthetic oil is in order. I got some rotella on sale the other day at advanced auto, here it was $24/gal
That stuff is supposed to help clean out a motor and I swear it doesn't burn up like that standard oil does. Those esters are like chemistry magic
I say keep driving them hard and throw some trans fluid in the crankcase before an oil change.
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan Oh, is that slop in the shifting from the bushings on the shifter linkage? Those are like $10. I never bother to look into it cause I can still hit all the gearsnah, the linkage and bushings are brand new still, it's the actual assembly. maybe i should just take it apart, or switch it out of my blue one, that would probably be easier. Forgot the factory service manual at home and my laptop at my shop, i'll bring it home today and read about the shifter.
(08-24-2012, 09:01 PM)larsalan I had to get a great big wrench to help take the alda(s) off. It's like 1 and 1/8 or 1 and 1/4. Then another thing like steel rod into where the air tube leads and turn that left. while holding that big wrench to the rightward direction.
is there any cover plates or golf tees required in the uninstallation of the alda? or just pull it off and you're good to go
installed the ebay app on my phone, now i'm in trouble.
so hard to find POR 15 in canada
1982 300TD - Wilber
1985 300TD - Ol' Blue (parts car)
1984 300D - Black Beauty (parts car)
various OM617 and 617A parts engine
"You have to realize that this is a DIESEL and you have a gasser for starters - what works for you will not necessarily apply to me. I for instance could run 35 pounds of boost and probably more and your engine would be a block with melted pistons. "
-Rudolf Diesel
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