Cheap Tricks
Cheap Tricks
08-28-2012, 12:37 PM
#1
I don't have a W123 anymore, so if people can chime in with the missing bits that would be great.
Disable the EGR ~$0-$30
+More complete combustion
-Not legal for onroad use
For offroad use only, remove the vacuum lines to the black box on the valve cover/ EGR and plug them with something. Kits are available to completely block it off for around $30
Check your linkage ~$0
+More powah
With the car turned off, put a brick on the accelerator. Look at the Injection pump, the linkage should be maxed out. If it's not, adjust things so that it is, making sure that nothing binds and your idle is unaffected.
Adjust your transmission
If it shifts quickly into 4th gear, it's doing it wrong. [link]
Boost Gauge ~$20-$100
![[Image: 20096.jpg]](http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/sli/20096.jpg)
![[Image: scaled.php?server=11&filename=controlpan...es=landing]](http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg11/scaled.php?server=11&filename=controlpaneld.jpg&res=landing)
+Monitor your turbo's operation, and is needed for the next few modifications
Get a 2" Slime tire gauge (Can be found as low as 20psi, easy to read) from WM. Take it apart, the gauge has NPT threads on the bottom. Get a brass fitting that lets you attach a 1/4" line to the gauge, get some 1/4" line, and run it to intake manifold. You can steal the ALDA's feed line if you remove the ALDA as well, or use one of the empty gauge ports on the manifold. You can hide the gauge in the glove box. If you want a pretty gauge, go on Eb@y, and you can install it in place of the ash tray or center vents.
Control your boost $0~$20
You can set your stock wastegate [Garrett] [KKK] to ~12psi, the stock settings are rumored at 9psi.
or
You can build/ buy a boost controller and splice it into the wastegate:
![[Image: almostcomplete.jpg]](http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc/images/almostcomplete.jpg)
+Faster spooling, prevents a creeping wastegate, easier to adjust
-Can be "twitchy" at highway speeds,
http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
Remove/ adjust the ALDA [removal link] [adjustment link]
+Better pedal response and acceleration. Possibly more topend (if it was broken to begin with)
Removal cons:
-Lose factory overboost protection (This is why you have a boost gauge installed), smoke before you build boost
Muffler delete: ~$20
![[Image: scaled.php?server=11&filename=exhaust1.jpg&res=landing]](http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg11/scaled.php?server=11&filename=exhaust1.jpg&res=landing)
+ Lower EGTs, slightly faster spool, slight gain in efficiency (1mpg)
- Louder, requires wastegate tuning or a boost controller to utilize
Cut the muffler out and replace it with a section of straight tubing. You need a ##" diameter pipe that's ##" long and two clamps to do it the easy way. If your turbo isn't properly set up, you will lose boost/ topend. If it's properly setup you will see faster spool times
This post was last modified: 08-29-2012, 08:30 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-28-2012, 12:37 PM #1These are the few "cheap tricks" I've learned to get an OM617 running right, I see a lot of people asking so here we go. Hopefully this will encompass all the noobie questions.
I don't have a W123 anymore, so if people can chime in with the missing bits that would be great.
Disable the EGR ~$0-$30
+More complete combustion
-Not legal for onroad use
For offroad use only, remove the vacuum lines to the black box on the valve cover/ EGR and plug them with something. Kits are available to completely block it off for around $30
Check your linkage ~$0
+More powah
With the car turned off, put a brick on the accelerator. Look at the Injection pump, the linkage should be maxed out. If it's not, adjust things so that it is, making sure that nothing binds and your idle is unaffected.
Adjust your transmission
If it shifts quickly into 4th gear, it's doing it wrong. [link]
Boost Gauge ~$20-$100
+Monitor your turbo's operation, and is needed for the next few modifications
Get a 2" Slime tire gauge (Can be found as low as 20psi, easy to read) from WM. Take it apart, the gauge has NPT threads on the bottom. Get a brass fitting that lets you attach a 1/4" line to the gauge, get some 1/4" line, and run it to intake manifold. You can steal the ALDA's feed line if you remove the ALDA as well, or use one of the empty gauge ports on the manifold. You can hide the gauge in the glove box. If you want a pretty gauge, go on Eb@y, and you can install it in place of the ash tray or center vents.
Control your boost $0~$20
You can set your stock wastegate [Garrett] [KKK] to ~12psi, the stock settings are rumored at 9psi.
or
You can build/ buy a boost controller and splice it into the wastegate:
+Faster spooling, prevents a creeping wastegate, easier to adjust
-Can be "twitchy" at highway speeds,
http://www.geocities.ws/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
Remove/ adjust the ALDA [removal link] [adjustment link]
+Better pedal response and acceleration. Possibly more topend (if it was broken to begin with)
Removal cons:
-Lose factory overboost protection (This is why you have a boost gauge installed), smoke before you build boost
Muffler delete: ~$20
+ Lower EGTs, slightly faster spool, slight gain in efficiency (1mpg)
- Louder, requires wastegate tuning or a boost controller to utilize
Cut the muffler out and replace it with a section of straight tubing. You need a ##" diameter pipe that's ##" long and two clamps to do it the easy way. If your turbo isn't properly set up, you will lose boost/ topend. If it's properly setup you will see faster spool times
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-28-2012, 01:18 PM
#2
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
Secondaries
08-28-2012, 01:18 PM #2Off topic: Why does that W123 have Mustang V6 wheels and how?
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
08-28-2012, 01:40 PM
#3
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-28-2012, 01:40 PM #3Got the set for $100 with snow tires on them. Tee spacing and hole pattern are the same. I even made up Mercedes center caps-black vinyl and clearcoat go a long way
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-28-2012, 05:09 PM
#4
Regardless, good post. I'm planning or have done all of these!
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
Secondaries
08-28-2012, 05:09 PM #4Tee spacing? Bolt pattern is most definitely NOT the same... 5x112 vs 5x4.5. Close but no cigar without wobble bolts.
Regardless, good post. I'm planning or have done all of these!
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
08-28-2012, 10:08 PM
#5
I don't particularly like manual boost controllers because of the goofy surging you get at high cruise speeds on higher boost engines. While I think they can decrease it takes to go from 90% boost to 100% boost, the boost area below that 90% is left unchanged. MBC's give an on/off switch feel to the turbo. The expensive electronic boost controllers attempt to limit that on/off switch feel and funky surge by cracking open the wastegate just before peak boost is reached - just like the stock straight up wastegate setup does. An MBC is great controller to use when you require more boost than the spring in your wastegate can regulate and you don't have tons of money to throw at the issue. The decision to go to an MBC is your's alone, I'm just saying that there is a downside.
The ALDA is a wonderful tool to reduce smoke and improve fuel efficiency. The best thing about it is that it's adjustable. When adjusted right, an ALDA equipped car will go just as fast as a car with no ALDA with the added bonus of the driver not having to regulate smoke output with his/her right foot. This is even more convenient when you do a manual trans conversion since you can let the ALDA control fuel when you're holding the pedal to the floor at rpms that are lower than what you would encounter with a 722.x equipped car.
raysorenson
08-28-2012, 10:08 PM #5Many solid suggestions there, but since this is a discussion forum, there are some a couple of things that, IMO, merit more discussion.
I don't particularly like manual boost controllers because of the goofy surging you get at high cruise speeds on higher boost engines. While I think they can decrease it takes to go from 90% boost to 100% boost, the boost area below that 90% is left unchanged. MBC's give an on/off switch feel to the turbo. The expensive electronic boost controllers attempt to limit that on/off switch feel and funky surge by cracking open the wastegate just before peak boost is reached - just like the stock straight up wastegate setup does. An MBC is great controller to use when you require more boost than the spring in your wastegate can regulate and you don't have tons of money to throw at the issue. The decision to go to an MBC is your's alone, I'm just saying that there is a downside.
The ALDA is a wonderful tool to reduce smoke and improve fuel efficiency. The best thing about it is that it's adjustable. When adjusted right, an ALDA equipped car will go just as fast as a car with no ALDA with the added bonus of the driver not having to regulate smoke output with his/her right foot. This is even more convenient when you do a manual trans conversion since you can let the ALDA control fuel when you're holding the pedal to the floor at rpms that are lower than what you would encounter with a 722.x equipped car.
08-14-2013, 12:34 AM
#6
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
great posts, S=B and raysorenson, thanks for those notes.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
11-14-2013, 12:52 PM
#7
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-14-2013, 12:52 PM #7Drip timing: set that badboy to 26*-28*, but listen for knocking. If it knocks, retard the timing otherwise bad things will happen to your engine.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-14-2013, 12:59 PM
#8
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-14-2013, 12:59 PM #8Wtf does a knocking diesel sound like?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
11-14-2013, 02:02 PM
#9
(11-14-2013, 12:59 PM)sassparilla_kid Wtf does a knocking diesel sound like?
The regular firing is more of a thud, a knock sounds like you're hitting the valve cover with a hammer.
When you mix too much alcohol in your sprayer mix it will knock.
Also known as "nailing" because it sounds like you're hammering a nail into the block
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-14-2013, 02:02 PM #9(11-14-2013, 12:59 PM)sassparilla_kid Wtf does a knocking diesel sound like?
The regular firing is more of a thud, a knock sounds like you're hitting the valve cover with a hammer.
When you mix too much alcohol in your sprayer mix it will knock.
Also known as "nailing" because it sounds like you're hammering a nail into the block
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-14-2013, 02:16 PM
#10
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-14-2013, 02:16 PM #10Listen to this car before it gets into boost
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-14-2013, 02:24 PM
#11
Mine actually sounds more like there is some piston slap or something going on until it gets warmed up :/
This post was last modified: 11-14-2013, 02:25 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-14-2013, 02:24 PM #11Oh alright, I thought mine might be knocking but after watching that vid I'm pretty sure my engine is just funky sounding. and probably in need of a new timing chain because I can't get it drip timed through the whole range of pump travel
Mine actually sounds more like there is some piston slap or something going on until it gets warmed up :/
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
11-14-2013, 04:56 PM
#12
(11-14-2013, 02:24 PM)sassparilla_kid Oh alright, I thought mine might be knocking but after watching that vid I'm pretty sure my engine is just funky sounding. and probably in need of a new timing chain because I can't get it drip timed through the whole range of pump travel
Mine actually sounds more like there is some piston slap or something going on until it gets warmed up :/
Piston slap happens, my DD slaps/ticks/knocks until it's warm on every start. Gotta give the old girl a few minutes to idle before taking off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-14-2013, 04:56 PM #12(11-14-2013, 02:24 PM)sassparilla_kid Oh alright, I thought mine might be knocking but after watching that vid I'm pretty sure my engine is just funky sounding. and probably in need of a new timing chain because I can't get it drip timed through the whole range of pump travel
Mine actually sounds more like there is some piston slap or something going on until it gets warmed up :/
Piston slap happens, my DD slaps/ticks/knocks until it's warm on every start. Gotta give the old girl a few minutes to idle before taking off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-14-2013, 06:39 PM
#13
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-14-2013, 06:39 PM #13Leaky injectors can cause a similar noise at idle but more random
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-14-2013, 06:41 PM
#14
(11-14-2013, 06:39 PM)willbhere4u Leaky injectors can cause a similar noise at idle but more random
I thought it might be injectors, but it still does it after getting a set rebuilt by Greazzer so I know it's not them
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-14-2013, 06:41 PM #14(11-14-2013, 06:39 PM)willbhere4u Leaky injectors can cause a similar noise at idle but more random
I thought it might be injectors, but it still does it after getting a set rebuilt by Greazzer so I know it's not them
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
11-15-2013, 06:33 AM
#15
This post was last modified: 11-15-2013, 06:33 AM by Tito.
11-15-2013, 11:04 AM
#16
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-15-2013, 11:04 AM #16bad prechambers under the injectors can cause issues also
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-15-2013, 12:15 PM
#17
(11-15-2013, 11:04 AM)willbhere4u bad prechambers under the injectors can cause issues also
I'll have to check that out also. And also I feel like I hijacked this thread lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-15-2013, 12:15 PM #17(11-15-2013, 11:04 AM)willbhere4u bad prechambers under the injectors can cause issues also
I'll have to check that out also. And also I feel like I hijacked this thread lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
12-03-2013, 11:25 PM
#18
This post was last modified: 12-03-2013, 11:26 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
12-03-2013, 11:25 PM #18Simpler I thought of something else to add to your bag of cheap tricks!! I think you should add checking/stretching that little spring in the return line/banjo on the IP, you know that one that regulates lift pump pressure or whatever
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
07-03-2018, 09:51 PM
#19
(08-28-2012, 10:08 PM)raysorenson Many solid suggestions there, but since this is a discussion forum, there are some a couple of things that, IMO, merit more discussion.
I don't particularly like manual boost controllers because of the goofy surging you get at high cruise speeds on higher boost engines. While I think they can decrease it takes to go from 90% boost to 100% boost, the boost area below that 90% is left unchanged. MBC's give an on/off switch feel to the turbo. The expensive electronic boost controllers attempt to limit that on/off switch feel and funky surge by cracking open the wastegate just before peak boost is reached - just like the stock straight up wastegate setup does. An MBC is great controller to use when you require more boost than the spring in your wastegate can regulate and you don't have tons of money to throw at the issue. The decision to go to an MBC is your's alone, I'm just saying that there is a downside.
The ALDA is a wonderful tool to reduce smoke and improve fuel efficiency. The best thing about it is that it's adjustable. When adjusted right, an ALDA equipped car will go just as fast as a car with no ALDA with the added bonus of the driver not having to regulate smoke output with his/her right foot. This is even more convenient when you do a manual trans conversion since you can let the ALDA control fuel when you're holding the pedal to the floor at rpms that are lower than what you would encounter with a 722.x equipped car.
OK has anyone here used an electronic boost controller with 3d mapping to control their ALDA? I am putting compounds on the 606 and rather than use the second pwm output on the controller to control the second wastegate, I thought I would use it to control the ALDA ramp in the lower gears. This is useful when using a controller that senses what gear you are in; by limiting fuel in gears 1-3, I hope to reduce wheelspin to manageable levels. Sort of a poor man's version of an electronic injection pump. Anyone? Bueller?
atypicalguy
07-03-2018, 09:51 PM #19(08-28-2012, 10:08 PM)raysorenson Many solid suggestions there, but since this is a discussion forum, there are some a couple of things that, IMO, merit more discussion.
I don't particularly like manual boost controllers because of the goofy surging you get at high cruise speeds on higher boost engines. While I think they can decrease it takes to go from 90% boost to 100% boost, the boost area below that 90% is left unchanged. MBC's give an on/off switch feel to the turbo. The expensive electronic boost controllers attempt to limit that on/off switch feel and funky surge by cracking open the wastegate just before peak boost is reached - just like the stock straight up wastegate setup does. An MBC is great controller to use when you require more boost than the spring in your wastegate can regulate and you don't have tons of money to throw at the issue. The decision to go to an MBC is your's alone, I'm just saying that there is a downside.
The ALDA is a wonderful tool to reduce smoke and improve fuel efficiency. The best thing about it is that it's adjustable. When adjusted right, an ALDA equipped car will go just as fast as a car with no ALDA with the added bonus of the driver not having to regulate smoke output with his/her right foot. This is even more convenient when you do a manual trans conversion since you can let the ALDA control fuel when you're holding the pedal to the floor at rpms that are lower than what you would encounter with a 722.x equipped car.
OK has anyone here used an electronic boost controller with 3d mapping to control their ALDA? I am putting compounds on the 606 and rather than use the second pwm output on the controller to control the second wastegate, I thought I would use it to control the ALDA ramp in the lower gears. This is useful when using a controller that senses what gear you are in; by limiting fuel in gears 1-3, I hope to reduce wheelspin to manageable levels. Sort of a poor man's version of an electronic injection pump. Anyone? Bueller?
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