'84 300D Project.
'84 300D Project.
Just picked up a sweet gold German thingy. Drove it from North Carolina back home to New Hampshire. Lowered it a bit, stuffed some wheels I had lying around on it, deleted the EGR, jammed a cone filter on it and now it needs some more power.
On the road!
On the ground!
(10-05-2012, 12:57 PM)aaa Have you messed with the alda yet?
(10-05-2012, 12:57 PM)aaa Have you messed with the alda yet?
Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
(10-06-2012, 06:32 PM)larsalan(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
After the alda is off and the exhaust is nice and clear then there's a thread on turning up the internal stuff of the IP
(10-06-2012, 06:32 PM)larsalan(10-06-2012, 07:09 AM)ilovemybike Is there a thread on removing it? I'd really like to get poooowwwwwaaahhh
After the alda is off and the exhaust is nice and clear then there's a thread on turning up the internal stuff of the IP
(10-09-2012, 09:32 PM)larsalan They sound great
(10-09-2012, 09:32 PM)larsalan They sound great
You are best to take the IP off. You can do that without taking off the oil filter. There are 3 bolts/stud thingies for the IP by the block and 1 bolt/nut by the filter housing. If you're lucky the one by the filter will be gone cause it's a bitch to reach. All are 13mm I think. My need to cut a wrench in half, ymmv
myb you are needing more professional advice. But here is my 2 cents.
Set the crank to that 24atdc.
And look to be sure the lobes for th cam of the front cylinder are pointing upwards.
I guess the cam shaft is turning 2 times per 1 turn of the crank? So they could be pointing downwards?
There are marks inside the IP
http://media.photobucket.com/image/recen...iptime.jpg
I spent a while ago putting my IP in and out of the block about 10-12 times in a 48hr period.
There is a whole thread on turning up the power
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-189.html
you need some sockets and cut them a bit to make specialty tools
Ok, so ask/wait for more experienced advice cause I admit I am a hack.
Cutting off that 70lb muffler is a step in the right direction. Glad you like the sound
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
you're going to want a pyrometer and boost gauge before you turn the pump up. If you go too hot you can literally melt the pistons.
Install your gauges, get your boost up to 12ish psi (ymmv) and then start tweaking the pump.
If you pull the manifolds to install the pyrometer, there is not better time to give them a quick port match...also add a smooth lip to the stubby connection pipe between the turbo and manifold.
You should be able to advance your timing to 26* without knocking, and it if knocks-retard it a degree and try again.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So a lot has happened since I started this thread. I cut three coils and drove around low for awhile, which became annoying even with a plated oil pan.
I decided to lift the car back to at least stock height and got some used circle track coilovers. With a little ingenuity they are in and it drives very nicely with them. I put the cut front springs in the rear which worked remarkably well. The front springs are currently 500#, which is a touch firm for bumpier roads but quite nice on smooth ones. I cut the DV's, deleted EGR, ALDA, made an intake and turned the boost up to 15PSI. The transmission slips occasionally in second gear now, although I did a fluid change last night, we shall see how it goes now. The original exhaust was rotted so I made a 3" aluminum system from things I had lying around. It sounds pretty awesome.
I bought some Corbeau seats cheap and stuck them in. Made a removable harness bar and added some proper seatbelts.
Because of the trans issues I am considering a manual swap. I have done a few Scandinavian style cut and welds before.
Here is a BMW ZF that I mated to an Audi AAN engine for a Volvo 242. Are the bolt on transmissions worth swapping or should I make a different trans fit?
Good to see you are still around!
that coil setup on the front is pretty good idea! never would have though of that myself.
And before you go to haywire on the trans ideas, have you tried turning up the line pressure?
I have not, how can I do that?!
Turned the old modulator five turns and it's holding second gear with much firmer shifts.
Great to hear! Mine shifts hard, but doesn't slip. Definitely harder than any other auto I've have rode in. But it's been truckin along for 5 years or so and hasn't even hiccuped yet so I'd say it's okay.
(11-28-2016, 02:48 PM)Hario Cool man. Aluminium exhaust??
(11-28-2016, 02:48 PM)Hario Cool man. Aluminium exhaust??
So I melted the poor automatic after giving it all the line pressure that I could adjust. So faced with finding another auto with 300K on it or swapping in a manual I decided to try the three pedal route. I didn't really want to use a Benz four speed, they aren't that common and they aren't overdrive, so I decided to use an AX15 with a mercedesdiesel4x4 adapter. I bought a 95 Dakota 2WD AX15 and swapped a 4.0L Jeep bellhousing onto it. I bought a set of manual pedals off of eBay and started putting things together. I marked the flywheel before removing it and had a friend who works at Spintech in MA match the off balance of the stock flywheel to the new Jeep flywheel. The shifter pokes through a bit forward, but for now I made a Mustang style shifter and it's working out well. I made an adapter to use a Ford bolt driveshaft flange instead of the giubo. I ran a hard line from the clutch master to a bulkhead fitting that I welded to the floor, from that I ran a -3 AN line to an Advance Adapters -3 conversion fitting for the Jeep slave cylinder. A custom driveshaft, Jeep starter and a trans crossmember and I have been driving it for a month now.
Looks sweet, as for the shifter have you considered relocating it with something like this?
I played with that idea, but it shifts pretty good as it is.